• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Going to go play find-the-leak with the powersteering system on the jerp.
haha, yeah... a/c leaks can be a bitch to track down. good luck
[QUOTE=DPKiller;40301913]I acculy have a ruff estimate were its leaking. The day before it stopped working my radiator hose near my oil cooler broke, I unbolted the core support and swung it around to the passenger side like a door hinge. In the prosess I think I could have dungoofed the hoses going to the (condenser?). Gonna take it to a shop that has a vaccume pump and dump some dye in it to see whats up. This is the conversation I had with 3/4 shops. me : Can you diagnose a ac issue? I have tryed to put freon in it but it instantly runs out shop : What kind of car is it? me : Its a 99 Audi A6 Quattro Avant shop : *prossesing face* shop : let me go get my manager manager : Sorry we don't work on German cars. :okay face:[/QUOTE] Wow, I tried looking for shops in fort worth and Dallas. There is literally one or two shops that may work on older german cars. The other few looked way too prestigious. I guess texas doesn't like german cars.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;40304134]Wow, I tried looking for shops in fort worth and Dallas. There is literally one or two shops that may work on older german cars. The other few looked way too prestigious. I guess texas doesn't like german cars.[/QUOTE] By far the best place here is European Automotive Service in Whitehouse , TX. Its were I get all my OEM parts from because they do ALOT of business with Audi. Anyway Status update because fuk I do work. Problem Area. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Audi/2013-04-16%2013.32.55.jpg[/t] The line was rubbed straight threw. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Audi/2013-04-16%2013.33.56.jpg[/t] Yep. Got a automotive shop gonna give me a price qoute. Should be only ~150$ 50$ for part 100$ for labor lul.
That's not bad at all if "labor" includes an evac and recharge
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;40305208]That's not bad at all if "labor" includes an evac and recharge[/QUOTE] Well... That was not counting those. It should take take a maximum of 1 and a half hours. Than evap + recharge uuuurrgggg I personally would do this repair by my self but I have no trust in my self with thin as tin steel. If I brake the High Pressure Switch +140$ Dealer only part ;_; Also I know NOTHING about A/C work, only thing I know is the AUX Fan should turn on when you turn on the A/C. And if your AUX fan catches on fire your in a load of shit down the road. (True story) We will find out once they call me back....
Yeah usually the fan will kick on while the compressor is going, both to pull more air through the condenser and to deal with the extra heat at idle. And usually a shop will charge like $100 to do a full evac & recharge, maybe they will give you a deal on it if you're having the other work done there *shrug*
Uhh, if you broke the A/C lines there's no refrigerant in it and you literally just swap out the line for the new one and there's nothing special about it. Just replace it yourself and have somewhere else charge it possibly, A/C isn't too complicated. You charge the WEIGHT of the refrigerant to spec and add the amount of PAG oil to spec and you're done. Also fuck "evacuating" and following the EPA laws, vent it straight to atmosphere and call it good. You aren't going to harm the environment, these are laws out there for businesses and huge corporations to follow so that there isn't a mass trend which can harm the environment. [editline]16th April 2013[/editline] Also, the compressor and fan clutches won't kick on unless there's enough pressure in the lines dictated by the pressure switch.
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;40305842]Yeah usually the fan will kick on while the compressor is going, both to pull more air through the condenser and to deal with the extra heat at idle. And usually a shop will charge like $100 to do a full evac & recharge, maybe they will give you a deal on it if you're having the other work done there *shrug*[/QUOTE] What other work... Their is nothing else wrong. :v: That they will fix anyways... I just want my A/C to be fixed to boost my love for it. I can do everything else... Except pulling the windshield glass, That I would have some one else too too... [editline]16th April 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=slayer3032;40305871]Uhh, if you broke the A/C lines there's no refrigerant in it and you literally just swap out the line for the new one and there's nothing special about it. Just replace it yourself and have somewhere else charge it possibly, A/C isn't too complicated. You charge the WEIGHT of the refrigerant to spec and add the amount of PAG oil to spec and you're done. Also fuck "evacuating" and following the EPA laws, vent it straight to atmosphere and call it good. You aren't going to harm the environment, these are laws out there for businesses and huge corporations to follow so that there isn't a mass trend which can harm the environment. [editline]16th April 2013[/editline] Also, the compressor and fan clutches won't kick on unless there's enough pressure in the lines dictated by the pressure switch.[/QUOTE] Yes but the line that is damaged is the condenser its self. And the Pressure switch I bypassed that to make sure the fan and compressor were still good. So I then resorted to the lines. It rubbed onto the core support for some strange reason. Which will be promptly trimmed down after the new one is test fitted and made sure fits.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;40305957]Yes but the line that is damaged is the condenser its self. And the Pressure switch I bypassed that to make sure the fan and compressor were still good. So I then resorted to the lines. It rubbed onto the core support for some strange reason. Which will be promptly trimmed down after the new one is test fitted and made sure fits.[/QUOTE] That's even easier, you literally just need a new condenser and slightly bend the lines away from where they rub? I'm a little more used of the honda condensers which use a 90 degree fitting and bolt onto the condenser instead of having any part of the lines being part of the condenser. You could probably pick one up in a junkyard or order an aftermarket new one if you wanted to. Here's a honda condenser. [t]http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp272/king1538/ekcondensersetup.jpg[/t]
honda condenser twice as big as the radiator. lol
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40307498]honda condenser twice as big as the radiator. lol[/QUOTE] Mo AC yo, gots ta keeps the bitches cool.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40307498]honda condenser twice as big as the radiator. lol[/QUOTE] Actually, most Civics use a half condenser so it's more like the same size and they sit side by side. That's the same condenser which my Integra uses that has a full size radiator. The radiator is decently bigger..
Picked up a power steering unit for the Skyrine and some other bits, now to get the power steering pump to complete the package.
Replaced my AC belt, no more squeek when it engages. Got it for free too. The garage i help out at needed a part asap from another shop and it was after that shops last dropoff run, so in trade for getting the part, the owner paid for my $15 belt.
DIY: -fixed igniter -Put some air in the tires, 25psi isn't enough. -Installed and soldered the pigtail I prepared the other day -Drilled holes for switch -Assembled the switch panel with additional switches -No more wiring mess -Filled R154 with oil once again (new seal installed since Sunday) -Charging battery because fuck me the battery was at 6V Might go for a ride tonight then I took a bath, was sick once more (fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu meds), cook dinner then I'm preparing for some Urbex.
Flooded the 7, bloody M60's. Has a rough start on the first start of the day and this one time I forgot to tap the throttle once, it stalled and flooded. Got to get this shit sorted out, it's the one remaining item of maintenance that's driving me nuts and I can't diagnose it for the life of me. I think either leaky injectors might be leaving some fuel in the cylinders overnight making it hard to build up a stable rpm, or... buggered if I know. There's not much left on the engine for me to repair or replace at this stage :P
[QUOTE=Sobek-;40320344]Flooded the 7, bloody M60's. Has a rough start on the first start of the day and this one time I forgot to tap the throttle once, it stalled and flooded. Got to get this shit sorted out, it's the one remaining item of maintenance that's driving me nuts and I can't diagnose it for the life of me. I think either leaky injectors might be leaving some fuel in the cylinders overnight making it hard to build up a stable rpm, or... buggered if I know. There's not much left on the engine for me to repair or replace at this stage :P[/QUOTE] Sounds like a problem I had with a Ford Ranger about 2 weeks back. It was flooding SO bad that it leaked out on to the ground. :/ Check each injector with a mechanics stethoscope or use a long screwdriver and listen at the handle, if it sounds like its clicking weak or erratic/overly loud its almost certainly bad. Do it while its running and have someone cycle the key to on while you listen to each injector, it's about the only way you'll know for sure. Also, on the ranger, the culprit injector was running with the key on but engine not running, it went rouge and decided to just [i]dump[/i] fuel into the engine. I still can't figure out why but the old injector works just fine.
my starter got stuck on today while the car was running for about 30 seconds and then about 2 minutes while the ignition was off while i tumbled around the garage looking for a wrench to disconnect the battery, is it fucked
nope
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Changed my oil, think i added a touch too much. Should be alright though. In other news, i hit a turtle two days ago with my right tires. Smashed the poor guy to pieces. I was going 65mph behind a pickup and didnt have time to react. I checked my tires today, front right was about 4 psi lower than it should be. However, my left was 2psi lower than normal. I put them back up to normal, so ill see what happens
Cleaned off my intake manifold, and painted it a slightly brighter red than it came with stock. The whole engine came red from the factory, and it's a good color. I was debating between red, and "race me" orange. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM00660_zps95c2d22d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00660_zps95c2d22d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[QUOTE=Serj22;40332866]Cleaned off my intake manifold, and painted it a slightly brighter red than it came with stock. The whole engine came red from the factory, and it's a good color. I was debating between red, and "race me" orange. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM00660_zps95c2d22d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00660_zps95c2d22d.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE] You should really use like some 90 degree fittings off the firewall to angle the heater hoses downwards so they aren't over the valve cover. I think it would make your bay look like twice as good lol..
Good plan. I was thinking of getting longer ones and routing them over to the fender.
Picked up my new Meyle heavy duty rsm's, gaskets and Z3 reinforcement plates, now to wait for my coilovers to arrive hnngg.
My car is making some really high pitched sound at idle... I think it's a vacuum leak? cannot for the life of me tell where exactly it's coming from, just that it's in the intake manifold area :(
Welp got my new condenser on after afew bends it was a exact replacement. But after I took it to the shop to have it vacuumed and refilled they said the compressor would not come on. Braught it back home and started to fiddle with it. The Compressor [b]IS[/b] getting 12v power and the inner clutch is [b]NOT[/b] moving. Soooo I dicked around with it the inner part was frozen solid did some "Ima make you spin u cunt" to it and now the clutch spins freely also but still it wont engage. For reference Outer pulley were the belt rides and the inner thing both move freely both directions.
Maybe you got a bad compressor? Return.
I'd return that shit
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