[QUOTE=Ldesu;46136298]It's screw operated, not chain, so it doesn't make any difference really[/QUOTE]
Also the fact your not trying to lift the whole thing on those two lift arms. The weight of the front still being on the ground reduces the weight lifted by the rear arms, reducing stress.
Although the drive system of the lift may not care, the swing points might if things get too heavy.
I've heard stories of lifts breaking at the arms and pulling the anchor bolts out of the concrete, not fun from what I gather.
EDIT: Oh hey, page king.
So Content ahoy.
So my buddy with an F150 4x4 I've complained about here before used to be a tow truck driver. About 2 years ago he got shit canned because another dude in the bizz decided he wanted to be a cheakey cunt and run his mouth ultimately getting him (the friend) fired due to the circumstances of how thing are run and no way around it, well, the dude whos been driving for his old boss decided he wanted to get lit on oxys and ran the truck into someone damaging the bumper. Kinda curled it under the truck a bit but the worst part is he left the truck in the road. Suffice to say he's now shit canned and my bud is now back in the drivers seat but with limitations for the time being.
He called me about an hour ago and asked me to help him pull the bumper straight with my come-along, or come-and-git-it as I call it sometimes. Cake walk fixin, have pics:
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/9hLyPMf.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=clutch2;46136425]that is incorrect. The radio is coded so that if the power is ever removed from it you need a code for it to work correctly again.
There's very very few cars that won't start with the radio removed... there's a couple Saabs, a couple older Porsches... and that's all I can think of. They're not as integrated as one might think.[/QUOTE]
I can verify that the Slaab will not start with the radio removed. Don't see the point, but 90s anti theft in General is pretty garbage. At least people will look at my currently multi colored car and most likely think there's nothing to steal, or the car itself isn't worth stealing.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46136425]
There's very very few cars that won't start with the radio removed... there's a couple Saabs, a couple older Porsches... and that's all I can think of. They're not as integrated as one might think.[/QUOTE]
Fucking hope the 9-5 isn't one of those Saabs, I'm gonna drive it home next weekend, and I haven't had or used a CD for several years, I don't think I can survive 6 hours of listening to the radio.
What year is that 9-5?
It's an '01.
Started off the other day with getting the Slaab's engine degreased, so that pulling the powers steering pump wouldn't be disgusting.
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/1pVFF7dZ.jpg[/t]
Due to its retarded location, it got stuck on the AC pod, which was coming out anyway, due to the AC being busted.
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/PXMzW4zO.jpg[/t]
Got one of the pulleys for the AC off, and also cut off the hoses.
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/6hJ0bzzr.jpg[/t]
Finally got the damn pump out, getting it back is going to fucking suck.
[t]http://i.imgbox.com/ZXWRxXcS.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Gulen;46146967]It's an '01.[/QUOTE]
Those are cake, you're good to put whatever you'd like in its place!
As long as it doesnt look like this
[img]http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q307/crispincrispin/Saab/101_4630.jpg[/img]
~snip~
photobucket ninjad' me...
Heyo clutch, can you explain how [URL="http://www.carid.com/2000-ford-mustang-stereo-installation/metra-stereo-dash-kit-4480662.html"]this[/URL] dash kit stuff works. I've had an aftermarket head unit installed for a while but its kinda just sitting in the hole and not really secured and has a gap around it.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46152897]Heyo clutch, can you explain how [URL="http://www.carid.com/2000-ford-mustang-stereo-installation/metra-stereo-dash-kit-4480662.html"]this[/URL] dash kit stuff works. I've had an aftermarket head unit installed for a while but its kinda just sitting in the hole and not really secured and has a gap around it.[/QUOTE]
I always hated those kits when I did audio work. It usually means it is for a bunch of different cars and is adaptable if you cut/ add/ screw on something. Works good on the later 2000 GMC trucks, but that's about all the love I have for those kind of things. I prefer a single vehicle bracket. All this audio stuff makes me want to redo my entire dashboard on my car now...
Also clutch, regarding that picture, wonderful wiring shoved into a blank din slot. lol. I've seen the single din on a double slot a few times, or with the pocket missing... Have you ever seen the "stolen radio" faceplate? It was a pretty cool idea, just a blank plate with some wires dangling and glued on, made the radio look like it had already been stolen.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/yquVjjx.jpg[/IMG]
Spark plug change today. Old ones look healthy enough; motor should be fine
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46153816][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/yquVjjx.jpg[/IMG]
Spark plug change today. Old ones look healthy enough; motor should be fine[/QUOTE]
You can't even tell the block is painted with all that stuff.
Subtle is good.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46152414]Those are cake, you're good to put whatever you'd like in its place!
As long as it doesnt look like this
[img]http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q307/crispincrispin/Saab/101_4630.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Uhm, yeeah, that's pretty much exactly how I was planning on doing it... But I might get to borrow the 2DIN headunit from the crashed volvo, at least for when I go pick it up on Friday.
You know those adapters come with cubbys so you don't have to have a gaping hole.
Or you could do a double din head unit if you feel like spending a bit more $$
[editline]5th October 2014[/editline]
Oh you already have one lol
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46158784]You know those adapters come with cubbys so you don't have to have a gaping hole.[/QUOTE]
Who doesn't like a little gape though?
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46160112]Who doesn't like a little gape though?[/QUOTE]
I like a even panel gap.... if you know what I mean.
I like big butts
On that Saab the Metra Mazda snap in dash kit 99-7505 will fit if you're putting in a DIN radio, or 95-7505 if you're putting in a DDIN radio. That way it looks cleannnnnnn.
For that kit you posted, Squarbob, what it is is on older Fords (like early 90s late 80s, here's an example, [url]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/272209/fullsize/dash-003.jpg[/url]) they were single DIN but NOT slide out like the late 90s /early 00s key out ones. So for those you'd slide the new cage into the plastic ring (after removing the dual post middle junk) and then snap off all the tabs except the ones that fit the holes you need.
If you've got one of the key out single DIN radios that kit you posted isn't necessary, simply key out the old factory radio, then slide in the new radio's cage, bend the tabs, and slide the new radio in. Cake
Never seen the fake stolen faceplate mod tho :v: I want a pic!
Alright, I only got the head unit because someone else got a new one so I didn't get the "sleeve" as pioneer calls it. This I suppose [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IA4OQEY?pc_redir=1411726979&robot_redir=1[/url]
Better off just leaving it sitting in the hole the way it is because fuck paying 20 bux for a piece of metal
Just did some lapping of my 4AGE head today, getting it ready to be put back together.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/smdbwqw.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46160673]Alright, I only got the head unit because someone else got a new one so I didn't get the "sleeve" as pioneer calls it. This I suppose [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IA4OQEY?pc_redir=1411726979&robot_redir=1[/url]
Better off just leaving it sitting in the hole the way it is because fuck paying 20 bux for a piece of metal[/QUOTE]
Yea man, without it there's no good way.
Here's a cheaper one on Ebay;
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-Radio-Cage-Mount-Radio-Can-Radio-Mounting-Sleeve-single-din-DEH-150m-/201134217836?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Dashboard_Installation_Kits&hash=item2ed4889a6c[/url]
Otherwise hit up your local BestBuy and/or audio shop and see if they're cool and willing to give you a spare or sell ya one for like $5.
Also.. tonight is screen printing night!
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1958480_1556570774575653_8874943074798233366_n.jpg?oh=03cf4a2212f856ba6869da0ea8ea12ab&oe=54C10BA5&__gda__=1421326799_3cf4d811f5d2690a0eb1ab347d82fe6d[/img]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46158784]You know those adapters come with cubbys so you don't have to have a gaping hole.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I know, but I have a spare Pioneer HU that I was planing on putting in it when I go pick it up this weekend. I'm not sure if I want a 1DIN or a 2DIN, or what kind of 2DIN I want, and I don't have time to wait for shipping on an adapter either. But yeah, I've got a 2DIN I can borrow, the guy that's buying it is coming with me anyways. And then I can see if I like it (it's almost brand new, but I don't like the buttons on it)
Took my wheels to see what it would cost to get straightened out. Turns out all 4 are bent, and it would be ~$650 to straighten them out. I've only got $250 invested in them, and I can get new aftermarkets for that much.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/T4Xi3vLh.jpg[/IMG]
One step forward...
Finally got it to crank with the turn of the key!
Hooray!
But then it still doesn't start, I think it's a fuel issue. I'll pick some starter fluid up tomorrow.
There's some sort of odd hissing coming from near the fuel rail as soon as the battery supplies power.
[video=youtube;mz0RhTW5ukc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz0RhTW5ukc[/video]
[video=youtube;EqU2w0p-LIo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqU2w0p-LIo[/video]
Also, put this on it:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/lj1g7gJ.jpg[/t]
Sounds like it's running timing too fast causing a kickback. Check the dizzy and make sure it's clocked correctly. That's what the vru vru vru stop vru vru vru vru stop usually means.
Okay, I'll look up a guide or two on it.
Any idea what the hissing might be?
[editline]7th October 2014[/editline]
I've also got to verify that there is indeed spark, I didn't get a chance to do that today, it got dark.
Dark is the best time to verify you have spark
[QUOTE=deathmog;46169238]Okay, I'll look up a guide or two on it.
Any idea what the hissing might be?
[editline]7th October 2014[/editline]
I've also got to verify that there is indeed spark, I didn't get a chance to do that today, it got dark.[/QUOTE]
Make sure first before you even mess with spark that theres no fuel leak coming from the injectors or rail.
And I've run into that problem before with the hissing sound, I believe an injector is stuck open and is dumping fuel into a cylinder or more.
Do this, turn the car on and let it hiss for a moment, 3 to 5 seconds will do. crank it for just a moment 2 "vru vru" will be perfect, after, shut it completely off and pull each plug one at a time and see if they are fuel soaked and/or if the cylinder is flooded. If plugs are fuel soaked, mark your wires to not lose their place and leave the plugs out, then have someone crank it for just a sec and keep your face out of the way but be close enough to see if gas sprays out. Disconnect your coil pack so you don't damage it or accidentally ignite any fuel as I've done this and it's not a fun experience.
This will tell you if an injector is stuck open. It's narrowly possible to fix it, but you'll need to be crafty to do so. If you have a tens unit you can run a lead to the injectors + and - and run it low power at first with the settings at Pulse Width(uS) 80 and Pulse Rate(Hz) around 10 to 20. If your even craftier you can make a pulse width modulated variable power supply at 5 to 7 volts to pulse the injector that way. Keep in mind it'll need to have a cleaner like Brake cleaner, carb cleaner, seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to break it lose.
I've done this at least a dozen times it it has not failed me yet.
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