• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
or just fill it with 50/50 to begin with and never worry about it again
[QUOTE=Adamhully;46182312]New water pump came today. [t]http://i.imgur.com/GTdhSvr.jpg[/t] Shiny! Only thing I'm worried about is getting the rubber gasket aligned right, there's a lot of holes for it to go around and it has to be fitted vertically, don't have any gasket sealant to hold it in place either.[/QUOTE] Might wanna use fluid gasket there
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46181206]There's literally no reason not to buy 50/50 premix.[/QUOTE] It's about 75% more expensive 1 gallon of coolant for $9, dilute 50/50 with another gallon of water for $.02 Or.. 1/2 gallon of coolant and 1/2 gallon of water for $7. I buy it straight. Pure, uncut.
[QUOTE=cNova;46183004]Might wanna use fluid gasket there[/QUOTE] I don't have any :( There aren't even any grooves to slot the gasket into, unless I buy some to hold it in place it's gonna be fidgety as fuck.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;46182933]or just fill it with 50/50 to begin with and never worry about it again[/QUOTE] There's still gonna be water in the block I can't/don't want to recover, which is supposedly about half the total capacity. Dropping in premix would fuck up the ratio
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46183322]There's still gonna be water in the block I can't/don't want to recover, which is supposedly about half the total capacity. Dropping in premix would fuck up the ratio[/QUOTE] Take the upper radiator hose off, take the thermostat out, take the lower rad hose loose, or opposite, depending o nwhat you want to do, dump a high pressure hose into where the upper hose mounted, start the car, and shoot water EVERYWHERE and yell and jump to complete the effect. This should get the rest of the junk out of the block, or you can go do a proper reverse flush at a shop. Then turn hose off till nothing comes off. block should hopefully be pretty empty, especially with the lower hose disconnected.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46183634]Take the upper radiator hose off, take the thermostat out, take the lower rad hose loose, or opposite, depending o nwhat you want to do, dump a high pressure hose into where the upper hose mounted, start the car, and shoot water EVERYWHERE and yell and jump to complete the effect. This should get the rest of the junk out of the block, or you can go do a proper reverse flush at a shop. Then turn hose off till nothing comes off. block should hopefully be pretty empty, especially with the lower hose disconnected.[/QUOTE] But I don't wanna do that much work!
Am I like the only person Who runs 75% water 25% coolant? Then again i'm in a tropical climate
I buy premix from honda because it's expensive and blue.
And because that coolant has vtec in it
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Y8n9WOo.jpg[/t] I get a little OCD
Nice buttplug
I did an inspection on this today [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/1008140936.jpg[/t] Creme '84 GSL-SE with a 13B and 124k on the clock, all original with fog lights and brown leather interior. Ended up finding a mouse nest in the air box and a rust hole right before the muffler, so it sounded really good. :v: I had to explain to someone who drives a slammed 1st gen rabbit what a rotary was. I also have never experienced a clutch so light before, just shows me how heavy the clutch in my celica is.
[QUOTE=MC DGNF H2;46186723] 13B and 124k on the clock[/QUOTE] RIP
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;46177545]New plugs wires cap and rotor on the hardbody yesterday, it had some crazy weird plugs like I've never seen in it. Bosch Platinums I think. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Ed6qa5A.jpg[/t] Wouldn't start back up after I finished all that, apparently the distributor is off by 180° inside? The cap only fits on one way, so I had to flip all the wires for it to work. Weird. Just another thing that was done not entirely wrong but not right, which seems to be a recurring theme on this thing...[/QUOTE] Um. If it was a KA24E SOHC engine, you have to re-insert the oil pump with a new gasket, then line up the distributor accordingly. If you did it right, the rotor inside should point to wire #1 to the cap outlet. Which is this: [t]http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/ce/ec/medium/0900c1528018ceec.gif[/t] Also those plugs suck for that motor. Use NGK Platinum. Part number 7096. Trust me [editline]8th October 2014[/editline] [t]http://i.imgur.com/6GHQuEv.jpg[/t]
Changed the wheels on the Slaab today, it's got continentals with a good bit of tread all around. Put some copper paste on the hub and all the bolts. Also got me three brand new bolts, after one had it's treads ruined by whoever put the summers on (probably a cheap shop with immigrants, they're popular around here) Should be ready for tackling the Hardangervidde when I get my license. [editline]9th October 2014[/editline] Also found out that it has a spare wheel, the original GM wheel wrench, 4 hub caps extra, warning triangle, and that the previous owner had burritos for dinner on the 31st of January or beginning of February.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46190197] Slaab[/QUOTE] Hell yeah, I'm not the only one calling em Slaabs anymore. Mine had to go into the shop because it wouldn't start, and I could not for the life of my figure out why. Battery is fully charged, it just won't turn over. I turn the key and it just goes click. However before I did, I got the new power steering pump in, so once I'm driving it again no more arm workouts for me. I've also got a CV boot repair kit that needs to go on it when I get it back. Once that's done I believe I can get it inspected.
Did you try and jump the starter to see if it still turns? it could be the solenoid not sending power to the motor itself.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46190978]Did you try and jump the starter to see if it still turns? it could be the solenoid not sending power to the motor itself.[/QUOTE] That must be it, because I did jump it and it didn't start.
I ran some wires for my switch panel and the SMS controlled remote starter fob (Fuck, I need to come up with a better name for it). Temporary cardboard panel with two switches, I have a couple more coming from eBay. The left one is the remote starter kill switch and the right one controls the power to the Arduino in the glovebox. I have everything I need to remake the panel out of plastic, I just need some time. [t]http://i.imgur.com/xe1Sqec.jpg[/t] Doing a test fit of the plastic box I got from Princess Auto, I'll probably get some split tubing or use some zipties to clean up the wiring later: [t]http://i.imgur.com/HUJxz0X.jpg[/t] Annnd inside the box. Again, just doing a test fit. I'll probably hot glue everything down so they don't rattle around in there. [t]http://i.imgur.com/YA4VgNj.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=jazxsora;46191450]That must be it, because I did jump it and it didn't start.[/QUOTE] I legit can't tell if your being a smartass, or you don't get what I mean. You said it "clicks", which tells me A) the switch contact in the solenoid is bad (which is the way most starters are designed unlike fords with a separate solenoid bolted on the vehicle somewhere else.) or B) Your only hearing a relay As you didn't specify [I]where[/I] the click is coming from, that's what I was able to deduce. So, DID you put power directly to the motor bypassing the solenoid or didn't you?
I checked spark from the wires today. Getting spark. Tomorrow I have to check the actual plugs because I for some reason forgot about them and just tested from the plug wires themselves.
Dropped my catback (Took a whole 15 minutes including jacking the car up.) Redid all the welds around the resonator, cleaned it a bit, re-installed on the car with ultra-copper rtv instead of a gasket, as I kept busting them either ways. Will test for leaks tomorrow, should be a bit better, at least, I hope. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Fqp38tx.jpg?1[/t] Yes I still post here when I can/feel like doing so.
[QUOTE=benjgvps;46194898]I ran some wires for my switch panel and the SMS controlled remote starter fob (Fuck, I need to come up with a better name for it). Temporary cardboard panel with two switches, I have a couple more coming from eBay. The left one is the remote starter kill switch and the right one controls the power to the Arduino in the glovebox. I have everything I need to remake the panel out of plastic, I just need some time. [t]http://i.imgur.com/xe1Sqec.jpg[/t] Doing a test fit of the plastic box I got from Princess Auto, I'll probably get some split tubing or use some zipties to clean up the wiring later: [t]http://i.imgur.com/HUJxz0X.jpg[/t] Annnd inside the box. Again, just doing a test fit. I'll probably hot glue everything down so they don't rattle around in there. [t]http://i.imgur.com/YA4VgNj.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I thought about a remote starter, but the effort to make sure you are not in gear, not started already and to know when to disengage the starter put me off. No OBDII in my RAV, even tho the american ones all had it...
What do you need remote start for anyway
Leave the cardboard
Changed alternator belt, camshaft breather hose and spark plug cables. I also wanted to change the spark plugs but turns out i dont have the right eq. for it, went to a friend and he made in 3 mins for me
Bought some liquid gasket so I don't end up committing suicide while changing the water pump, I still plan on using the rubber gasket but the liquid stuff will act as a holder while I place it. Also got some RainX and Berry Scented screen wash as they were buy one get one free. Screen wash I'm using at the moment smells like pure vodka and I feel like I'm driving under the influence every time I use it.
Tried to change the stereo in the Saab today, couldn't get the OEM HU out (only had some small screwdrivers, it needs those "keys" that go into four holes), and when I checked the HU I was gonna put in there, I realised that Pioneer had changed the pin layout on the connector for no apparent reason, so the power and ground were on the other side... So, when I go pick it up (hopefully in November), I'm gonna nick the entire stereo, not just the adapter cable from the Peugeot, or buy my own HU (if I can afford it...)
i drove my car today
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