• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=opaali;46198998]What do you need remote start for anyway[/QUOTE] Useful to let the car gets up to operating temps before using it when it's -30C.
that's what webasto/eberspächer is for
[QUOTE=opaali;46202589]that's what webasto/eberspächer is for[/QUOTE] Those do not get the engine to operating temps...
Yes because you want to start your engine from -30c rather than +10c [editline]11th October 2014[/editline] nigga what
I never said that. You state that a webasto is for getting the car up to operating temps, but they're not. They just thaw the engine. Idling the car gets it up to operating temps, not a webasto.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46195945]I legit can't tell if your being a smartass, or you don't get what I mean. You said it "clicks", which tells me A) the switch contact in the solenoid is bad (which is the way most starters are designed unlike fords with a separate solenoid bolted on the vehicle somewhere else.) or B) Your only hearing a relay As you didn't specify [I]where[/I] the click is coming from, that's what I was able to deduce. So, DID you put power directly to the motor bypassing the solenoid or didn't you?[/QUOTE] Sorry, did not mean to come off as a smartass. I don't know where the sound came from, and I didn't try that because it happened when I wasn't home. I had it towed to a shop, and they said that the positive cable to the battery had frayed and come out of the firewall, and the negative cable was rotted. They replaced those and it starts up almost better than ever now.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;46202997]I never said that. You state that a webasto is for getting the car up to operating temps, but they're not. They just thaw the engine. Idling the car gets it up to operating temps, not a webasto.[/QUOTE] Sure, it will get to opertaing temperature even if you start it from -273c, but starting it warm is A LOT better for the engine. I used the spare key on my previous car to start it and then use normal key to lock it when I woke up, then I took a shower and drank some coffee and left to school. Doesn't change the fact that it cried some nissan tears all those -32c mornings even though I had the block heater plugged in [editline]11th October 2014[/editline] actually you wont even get to "operating temps" when it's cold enough
The way you type make it seem like I said something like "Webastos don't do anything. Starting the car cold or warm doesn't do any difference" but I didn't, so what are you going on about? I know perfectly well that a warmer engine starts easier than a colder engine and that it's better for the engine, but you stated that a webasto gets it up to operating temperatures thus not needing to be started before use when it's cold. That's wrong and I told you why, they simply heat up the coolant, they don't actually heat up the engine block itself. So again, what are you going on about? [QUOTE=opaali;46203216]I didn't. And.. jesus christ whatever[/QUOTE] You did right here: [QUOTE=opaali;46202589]that's what webasto/eberspächer is for[/QUOTE] As a reply to WolvesSoulZ' post, that kinda implies that you think a webasto is for getting the engine to operating temperatures
[QUOTE=Ldesu;46203156]but you stated that a webasto gets it up to operating temperatures thus not needing to be started before use when it's cold.[/QUOTE] I didn't. And.. jesus christ whatever
I don't know of anyone running a Webasto in the states, still something that hasn't caught on.
This winter I'm probably going to use both a block heater (On a timer, so it's not running all night) to warm up the engine a bit and then use a remote starter to warm up the engine to operating temperatures and have the climate controls running to warm up the cabin. At school, they obviously don't provide an outlet for every car, so I'm just going to rely on my remote starter. That said, it gets the coldest at night and my classes are in the day for the most part. Tonight I worked on the plastic switch panel that goes in the radio cubby. Fucked up the first one, I somehow made it a centimeter too narrow. Though the second one turned out pretty nice, sorry for the dark-ass picture: [t]http://i.imgur.com/MQHFE1J.jpg[/t] The ABS plastic was pretty easy to work with, all I needed was a heat gun and a "dremel" with a cutoff wheel.
Tried to start the process of getting the timing right on the MR2. I took the wheel off, jacked it up, and sat there for probably 15 minutes going "How the fuck is anybody supposed to do this shit at all?" Upon taking the wheel off, this is what you see: [video=youtube;k0aMRrHrz9M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0aMRrHrz9M[/video]
Alternator on our F150 went out last night, It was my first time changing an alt. but it was fairy easy, unhook this, take the belt off, change, reverse and you're done! Best part about it is it wasn't absolutely buried in the engine bay, only had the air intake and a coolant hose in the way. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/2014-10-10%2018.03.02.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=MC DGNF H2;46204052]Alternator on our F150 went out last night, It was my first time changing an alt. but it was fairy easy, unhook this, take the belt off, change, reverse and you're done! Best part about it is it wasn't absolutely buried in the engine bay, only had the air intake and a coolant hose in the way. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/2014-10-10%2018.03.02.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Were there any symptoms of it dying before it went or did it just die?
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46204225]Were there any symptoms of it dying before it went or did it just die?[/QUOTE] Apparently lights dimming and warning lights coming on, when he pulled into a parking lot it finally gave out. I wasn't with him when this happened. We tested the alt before we bought a new one and it came back bad.
[QUOTE=jazxsora;46203002]Sorry, did not mean to come off as a smartass. I don't know where the sound came from, and I didn't try that because it happened when I wasn't home. I had it towed to a shop, and they said that the positive cable to the battery had frayed and come out of the firewall, and the negative cable was rotted. They replaced those and it starts up almost better than ever now.[/QUOTE] It's cool brosef, to be honest I was a bit testy that day. Been worried about my dad and it kinda came out that way. Glad to hear your car is running like a champ now, just the way it should. Cables rotted that bad is insane though.
[QUOTE=MC DGNF H2;46204722]Apparently lights dimming and warning lights coming on, when he pulled into a parking lot it finally gave out. I wasn't with him when this happened. We tested the alt before we bought a new one and it came back bad.[/QUOTE] Mine's shitting the bed, it's dropping voltage around 2k rpm and up, haven't tested it yet though.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46204021]Tried to start the process of getting the timing right on the MR2. I took the wheel off, jacked it up, and sat there for probably 15 minutes going "How the fuck is anybody supposed to do this shit at all?" Upon taking the wheel off, this is what you see: [video=youtube;k0aMRrHrz9M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0aMRrHrz9M[/video][/QUOTE] Timing as in spark timing, or timing as in the timing belt being installed correctly? If it's an issue with the timing belt you start by removing the serp belt and then pulling the harmonic balancer (AKA crankshaft pulley), then remove crap until you get to the guts behind the serp belt. If it's the SPARK timing, and the car has a distributor, you simply loosen the distributor and use a timing light to show what you're doing as you turn the distributor slightly before tightening it back down.
[QUOTE=Squarebob;46204778]Mine's shitting the bed, it's dropping voltage around 2k rpm and up, haven't tested it yet though.[/QUOTE] If you can get it off I know O'reilly's tests them for free, other auto part stores probably do the same but I can't say for sure.
the taurus puked transmission fluid all over the back of the block/on the transmission turns out there was a TSB on it for the transmission breather vent valve wasn't too bad to change Hardest part was finding the updated part to switch it out went to 3 different dealerships no one had the part in stock/knew what the hell I was talking bout even with the part number. Ended up having to go 45 miles south to find the fucking thing it literally took 5 times as long to find it as it did to switch the thing out
[QUOTE=clutch2;46204932]Timing as in spark timing, or timing as in the timing belt being installed correctly? If it's an issue with the timing belt you start by removing the serp belt and then pulling the harmonic balancer (AKA crankshaft pulley), then remove crap until you get to the guts behind the serp belt. If it's the SPARK timing, and the car has a distributor, you simply loosen the distributor and use a timing light to show what you're doing as you turn the distributor slightly before tightening it back down.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I'm checking out the timing belt before I mess with the distributor. The only problem i'm having is that I don't know which pulley is for what, there isn't a guide with very good pictures anywhere and the factory manual for it doesn't really go into detail. If anyone has ever done timing on a 4AGE, MR2 or not pls help [editline]11th October 2014[/editline] I also have to turn it to TDC with the crankshaft pulley before I do anything with the distributor too. (I think).
[QUOTE=deathmog;46207196]Yeah, I'm checking out the timing belt before I mess with the distributor. [/QUOTE] Bro, this is backwards. The distributor is one bolt, you just loosen it and turn the whole dizzy by hand with a timing light on the wheel. There is no need to tear the front half of the engine apart to do the timing belt if the dizzy is installed wrong. If you get to doing the timing belt you might as well drop this motor out of the car and start fresh.
I was poking around down there just because I wanted to see what was going on and see if there's anything physically wrong, my post was misleading and it made it seem like I was doing the timing down there with the belt right now (fuck that). The motor is at about 140k so I figure the belt is going to have to be changed eventually anyway, so I wanted to get at least a little familiar with at least what it looks like up and around there before winter happens, since I don't have a garage that I can use. (My actual garage is filled with motorcycles and four-wheelers) I have no idea if it was changed previously so I think its best to assume that it needs to be changed...but that's for another day - I do intend to do the distributor first, (I'm actually outside right now) I just used poor wording, my bad. I'll update in a little bit with any progress I have.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46188159]Um. If it was a KA24E SOHC engine, you have to re-insert the oil pump with a new gasket, then line up the distributor accordingly. If you did it right, the rotor inside should point to wire #1 to the cap outlet. Which is this: [/t]http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/ce/ec/medium/0900c1528018ceec.gif[/t] Also those plugs suck for that motor. Use NGK Platinum. Part number 7096. Trust me [editline]8th October 2014[/editline] [/t]http://i.imgur.com/6GHQuEv.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] It is a KA24E, and I eventually have to take apart the front of the motor to do the timing chain guides/tensioner so I will probably do that then, thanks. And I did get some NGKs, I think that's what Nissan uses OEM... either way I've always had good luck with NGKs in my Nissans haha, the SR20 likes them too.
SOmehow i marked the rotor wrong on my dizzy when I took it out to install my turbocharger setup. WHen i put it back, it was wrong, and I had to fuzz with it over and over to clock it in the right spot. On my motor though, I just pop #1 spark plug out, hold finger in the hole, and then crank engine till my hand is blown away. Then you slowly rotate it to where the timing mark says 0, then hookc the duzzy up with the rotor pointing towards the #1 plug wire, and that was that. I took several revolutions of missing the mark, and messing with it. You can play with distributor timing for hours trying to get a motor to start so you may have some turning and twisting ahead of you deathmog.
Welded on a new end pipe on the Subaru's exhaust today since the original was pretty full of holes and got these babies in the mail: [t]http://puu.sh/c8ugn.jpg[/t] Tinted wind deflectors! At least it was wide enough for this ramp: [t]http://puu.sh/c8ujG.jpg[/t]
Its adorable
Good. Now do this [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30kHzHCz1l8[/media] [editline]11th October 2014[/editline] (skip to 3:20)
I finalized my turbo setup today on the Dart after making a new J pipe. Old one was unsatisfactory and leaked. The new one is sound and much more stable, and brings the turbo closer to the motor instead of it hanging out in space. I was able to make 2psi of boost mashing on it around town and even that was a fun change. It has only about 20" of exhaust after the turbo and no muffler and it's still just quiet.
We require videos of some mad turbo noise
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