• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=The Decoy;46210735]We require videos of some mad turbo noise[/QUOTE] I need to get a better camera. Trying to con my girlfriend into buying me a gopro so I can make mad tyte videos. My phone doesn't really capture the high pitched whine of the turbo. It sounds beautiful though... Here's the last one I took of the old setup. [video=youtube;kYcvsj7p5pw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYcvsj7p5pw[/video] Even when you have the camera down in the turbo's face you still can't hear it, but it's loud.
give it a rev m8
I can hear the jet engine sound on the second angle, it sounds like it was meant to be and it is awesome.
Your Dart is fucking awesome.
Tomorrow morning when the light is back out, I'll find a way to set the phone up in the engine bay and rev it.
Do you have it all tuned yet or does it still need some tweaking?
[QUOTE=Siminov;46212186]Do you have it all tuned yet or does it still need some tweaking?[/QUOTE] Here's what I've done for tuning so far: -Put a bigger power valve in the carburetor -Installed #70 Holley Jets in the carb for the power circuit -Moved the accelerator pump adjustment rod to cut down on a bog from takeoff -Boost referenced fuel pressure regulator adjusted to 4psi and increases 1:1 on boost -Preload tightened on wastegate to keep it closed longer -Manual boost controller gets screwed out about 1 turn every time I drive till I hit 5psi for now. 8 is goal. -Disasembled distributor and welded governor closed to .31 throw. This only allows 8* advance. -Tweaked dizzy to allow 18* advance total while under boost with a Volvo 240T advance/retard unit. Basically the only issues I'm really running into are all normal carburetor based. It's the stuff you'd have to do any time you swapped on a new carburetor, so that takes time. But it is safely driveable as all instances of pinging/ detonation have been controlled - premium gas, advance is cut down, plenty of fuel, AFR gauge to monitor lean conditions, etc.
Rims are brakes are in for ma TJ! Now I have to wait another week for tires [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/CCB40484-76D6-4594-88F0-499AA6A4E3C3_zpshfgrjklq.jpg[/thumb] And I found out what color im painting my dart! [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/F7B87493-689B-4A37-AE8B-F4723FDECC90_zpsvoqywdb7.jpg[/thumb] Fucking EVIL color
[QUOTE=Serj22;46214621]Here's what I've done for tuning so far: -Put a bigger power valve in the carburetor -Installed #70 Holley Jets in the carb for the power circuit -Moved the accelerator pump adjustment rod to cut down on a bog from takeoff -Boost referenced fuel pressure regulator adjusted to 4psi and increases 1:1 on boost -Preload tightened on wastegate to keep it closed longer -Manual boost controller gets screwed out about 1 turn every time I drive till I hit 5psi for now. 8 is goal. -Disasembled distributor and welded governor closed to .31 throw. This only allows 8* advance. -Tweaked dizzy to allow 18* advance total while under boost with a Volvo 240T advance/retard unit. Basically the only issues I'm really running into are all normal carburetor based. It's the stuff you'd have to do any time you swapped on a new carburetor, so that takes time. But it is safely driveable as all instances of pinging/ detonation have been controlled - premium gas, advance is cut down, plenty of fuel, AFR gauge to monitor lean conditions, etc.[/QUOTE] Nice Think it would have been easier to go EFI or no?
[QUOTE=Siminov;46215400]Nice Think it would have been easier to go EFI or no?[/QUOTE] Heck yeah it would have been easier. I may add that in the beginning of next year, one of the stand alone units that you just install with a bunch of sensors that mimic a carburetor. Then I could set it and almost forget it because the computer would tune itself. Problem with EFI is tacking on $1800 just for the stand alone system. Also Valon, you can paint your dart whatever you want the second you quit buying Ford Buttstains and work on it. [editline]12th October 2014[/editline] [video=youtube;9rz1Za4OTUs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz1Za4OTUs&feature=youtu.be[/video] AS promised. Now I'm just trying to get it past the 2psi bracket around town. It's real quick, but it could be quicker, ya know?
Fuckin' sounds good man, great work. [editline]12th October 2014[/editline] As for what I've done recently, Changed rear door speakers on a 99 Jimmy. Changed out broke for working AC compressor on Jimmy, vac'd and filled, now ICE cold. Used porta-power on a 99 Ford Escort S-somethingorother 2.0 to pull part of the body moderately straight do to an accident. Didn't get more then an inch as it was on the back of a flatbed wrecker. Ziptied headlight assembly solid because its mounting points are all broke off. Changed oil pan and CV axle cuz the accident broke the CV and caused it to bust a hole in said aluminum oil pan. Adjusted toe-in so as to drive straight and not chew the tires or wander. The escort has only has 31,496 miles on it and smells brand fucking new. The guy who owns the escort is the my Wrecker driver friend and the jimmy is owned by a friend who works on Xboxs and TVs and shit. And tomorrows preview of what to come involves a poorly taken care of 99 Mercury Cougar V6 SVT which needs to have the high pressure powersteering line changed out and just after that a 2008 Grand Caravan needs an oil change. When I want to be busy, not a soul calls but when I want to be lazy and veg out on my computer my phone explodes with calls for repair requests. :suicide:
I know serj!! The DAY I bought that first god damn '85 mustang is the day I stopped working on the dart. Ever since I've been stuck with the fucking things, and now they are gone. I still have the heart of the original one to finish so im not fully free. Few more things to do and once everything is take care of im dumping everything I have into that car.
Went to the junkyard today cause I can always have more interior parts. Saw an 85 Celica GTS with bad leather interior [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/Junkyard/1012141718.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/Junkyard/1012141719.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/Junkyard/1012141718a.jpg[/t] An 84 GTS with an 83 build date, so it had stripey blue interior and 82-83 door handles, but an 84-85 front. Only thing that I could tell that was mechanically wrong with it was a blown head gasket. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/Junkyard/1012141745.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/Junkyard/1012141745a.jpg[/t] Not pictured: 1st gen Honda Accord Hatchback, 70s Chevrolet Monza Spyder, Early Foxbody Mustang & some more cars that I forgot the names of.
The Civic needs a clutch.. [video=youtube;v3gvLuJQbIAp]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3gvLuJQbIAp[/video] The Civic needed a clutch. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/download_20141011_015153.jpeg[/t] Dunno if this really counts as what did [b]I[/b] work on because I didn't do any of it though.. Now the speedometer cable is busted thanks to rust, old and plastic. Took 5 hours to track down 2 part numbers other than the dealer's real part number to find replacements which would actually work. Turns out they don't make speedometer cables spec'd for a 88-91 Civic(Most sold model Honda ever.) or a 90-93 Integra. However it seems that 2nd/3rd gen Civics use a speedometer cable the exact same length. So I'm probably going to buy a new one from the dealer for like $32..
[img]http://i.imgur.com/lA2duhV.jpg?1[/img] So I pulled my block out of my car today. [img]http://i.imgur.com/S8o368G.jpg?1[/img] My hands got dirty. [img]http://i.imgur.com/zAFodct.jpg?1[/img]
I have mysterious MR2 motor mud and it's tough to get out, even with fast orange
[QUOTE=ThePfeiffenator;46219898] My hands got dirty. [img]http://i.imgur.com/zAFodct.jpg?1[/img][/QUOTE] Gloves solve that problem. [editline]13th October 2014[/editline] I did the semi anually changing of the wheels on the Pegueot. The owner's manual had no instructions on where to jack the car up (not even with the included jack, nevermind a garage jack) There were two work gloves in the boot, though which was nice, seeing as the summer rims are full of brake dust and other shit.
[QUOTE=deathmog;46220230]I have mysterious MR2 motor mud and it's tough to get out, even with fast orange[/QUOTE] You'd be surprised how wonderful dishsoap works for this. I mean you use it once and then you kinda slap yourself for never putting 2 and 2 together that your giant bottle of dishsoap says "CLEANER AND DEGREASER" on it.
go to autoparts store and get this [t]http://www.use-enco.com/ProductImages/0026294-23.jpg[/t] we use this shit at work and I don't even bother with gloves because it works so well and I find it harder to work with them.
those things do both work, but if you have any kinda sensitive skin on your fingers holy shit dont do it. i once while driving started just bleeding out of my finger because it was so dry because of these soaps.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46220648]There were two work gloves in the boot, though which was nice[/QUOTE] I would see them and think "How many spiders are living in those?"
They were folded up, and there was no spiders in them.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46220648]Gloves solve that problem. [/QUOTE] Gloves aka "työjarrut" aka work brakes suck when doing stuff. Better off just getting some heavy duty hand cleaner
[QUOTE=opaali;46221572]Gloves aka "työjarrut" aka work brakes suck when doing stuff. Better off just getting some heavy duty hand cleaner[/QUOTE] Gloves are objectively good for your long term health so I'll use disposable rubber gloves whenever I work on something if I can
rubber gloves are disgusting, either proper gloves or no gloves.
"examination gloves" are the best though when doing fine work with oily stuff, normal gloves usually just get in your way [editline]13th October 2014[/editline] I used this kind of gloves at work [img]http://www.esska-tech.co.uk/esska_eng/bilder/lbilder/703010_1355321920_z.jpg[/img] They were pretty much skin tight but still got in to way even though the smallest bolt size on the machine I worked with was 30mm
Did my coolant flush today, sheared the plastic radiator drain plug. Luckily lots of other people have done this too and the parts store had a replacement and the old one pulled right out.
Latex gloves for cleanliness and then mechanix style gloves on top for heat/pinch protection.
[url=http://imgkk.com/i/cmo0.jpg][img]http://imgkk.com/t/cmo0.jpg[/img][/url] Putting it back in with the ratchet probably wasn't my best idea v:v:v
Installing for friend tomorrow. Just shipped from Land of Rising Sun. Wish this was my JDM af wheel. [T]http://i.imgur.com/QmP9CCZ.jpg[/t]
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