• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=benjgvps;46279564]I finally got around to wiring up the third switch to disable the amp power-on wire and shortened the panel so it fits better in the cubby. I'm pretty happy with it, now I just have to figure out if I want label it or not. I'm tempted to leave it as is because it's more [I]mysterious[/I] if I have three unlabelled toggle switches in the center of my dash. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Tq0Sxbq.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Is that a Cavalier? I don't remember my stereo adapter have so much empty space on it.
[QUOTE=darunner;46280446]Is that a Cavalier? I don't remember my stereo adapter have so much empty space on it.[/QUOTE] Yep, an 04. The cubby isn't that large, it's about 2.5cm tall. That's why I never used it and ended up putting a switch panel in there.
New tires are on the jeep!! Just a tad bit bigger [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/43630943-4894-4EFD-A948-A1991B107CCA_zpswdnq08u9.jpg[/thumb] I LOVE THEM [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/473B826A-A393-4436-8E31-3595F36E7926_zpswgmuwidp.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46269786]sup [t]http://i.imgur.com/jKQQG56.jpgp[/t] hopefully be done sunday night[/QUOTE] Wow you actually went through with it! Mad jelly and you've owned it in less time than me
after quite some time I now have a working overdrive. there's still that horrid driveshaft noise though; it seems to happen reliably in 2nd, and sometimes 3rd between 2-3k RPM, other times it's completely random, or it'll happen during a turn maybe???????????. fug :((((((((((((((((((((
[QUOTE=darunner;46280446]Is that a Cavalier? I don't remember my stereo adapter have so much empty space on it.[/QUOTE] 99 and older was only a 1.5 DIN opening, 00 and newer was a DDIN opening, that mighta been it.
[QUOTE=Dysplasia;46281938]after quite some time I now have a working overdrive. there's still that horrid driveshaft noise though; it seems to happen reliably in 2nd, and sometimes 3rd between 2-3k RPM, other times it's completely random, or it'll happen during a turn maybe???????????. fug :(((((((((((((((((((([/QUOTE] U joints, driveshaft center support and center support bearing. Check them cause they will do that
[QUOTE=clutch2;46282284]99 and older was only a 1.5 DIN opening, 00 and newer was a DDIN opening, that mighta been it.[/QUOTE] Ah! Yeah, that's probably it, then.
so uh some of you might remember my old Saab 9-5 Aero with LED flashers etc? I sold that car earlier this year but I saved all the police stuff. This wasn't exactly what I had in mind doing so.. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QS1Bo47zcm4[/media] that horn is terrifying at full volume :v:
Is that on an ATV?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/s7gh5jZ.jpg[/t] Anyone use polyurethane bushings? I just replaced my rear sway bar bushings. Feels nice to have more oversteer.
Did the brakes on my coworker's truck. Why in the hell does a 2WD Ford Ranger have the entire hub assembly as part of the brake disc??? Took 4 and a half hours, and all we ended up getting done was front pads and a single brake drum.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46288476][t]http://i.imgur.com/s7gh5jZ.jpg[/t] Anyone use polyurethane bushings? I just replaced my rear sway bar bushings. Feels nice to have more oversteer.[/QUOTE] I did in the front, honestly couldnt tell a huge difference because these coilovers are stiff as fuck already, but now i dont have a front sway bar lol
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46288476][t]http://i.imgur.com/s7gh5jZ.jpg[/t] Anyone use polyurethane bushings? I just replaced my rear sway bar bushings. Feels nice to have more oversteer.[/QUOTE] Front end is all poly bushings on the 240, it has a really tight front end now. The only thing in the back though on mine is the torque rods that have poly bushings. When they replace old and torn up bushings, yeah they make a huge difference.
[QUOTE=darunner;46289868]Did the brakes on my coworker's truck. Why in the hell does a 2WD Ford Ranger have the entire hub assembly as part of the brake disc??? Took 4 and a half hours, and all we ended up getting done was front pads and a single brake drum.[/QUOTE] Yay captive rotors [editline]20th October 2014[/editline] I want to murder whoever thought captive rotors was a good idea
Welp, today me and my Eclipse bro went to look at a 95 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. It's got 126k miles but isn't too bad.. almost no rust. He picked it up for $1500 for a winter car. But there's a to do list. -Rear wheel bearings -D side inner tie rod -alignment -Driveshaft carrier bearings/ bushings / U-joints -Valve cover/cam/spark plug tube seals -Front main seal -Timing belt (just incase lord knows we don't want another broken timing set issue in my driveway for a month) -Turbo oil inlet seal -New gas cap -Front p-side CV axle boot is ripped And that's about it. If only there was more time before winter!!! Sounds like fun
I remember reinstalling a cv axle and ripping the boot and going "fuck it" and drove around. I tell ya, once all that grease comes out, that cv joint exploded in a nice fashion. And once one CV turns easily because there's no actual connection, the car doesn't move. That was a fun experience.
[QUOTE=darunner;46286322]Is that on an ATV?[/QUOTE] yes
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46288476][t]http://i.imgur.com/s7gh5jZ.jpg[/t] Anyone use polyurethane bushings? I just replaced my rear sway bar bushings. Feels nice to have more oversteer.[/QUOTE] Poly bushings are great, however stay the hell away from the "full bushing kit" garbage. Poly bushings on a load bearing bushing do not work on a daily driven vehicle. Bushings such as the shock mount bushings are designed to flex and deflect with EVERY movement of the shock. Poly does not do this, at all. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/1252677722-skunk2-lca.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/s2-lca-3.jpg[/t] Skunk2 has been making these things for years, they seem to have gone for a design which is easily serviceable and can flex a little more. These things are usually considered to fail yearly or every 20-30k miles. You are pretty much supposed to go around your vehicle and check all of your bushings thoroughly with every oil change. Poly bushings do not stretch or contract, they get brittle and crack. Seems like Hardrace/Megan racing makes them for the s chassis, they are basically a knock off of sorts of the Nismo bushings. [url]http://forums.nicoclub.com/s14-megan-racing-rubber-bushings-t565567.html[/url] Swaybars are pretty good examples of where a poly bushings can work though, just remember you have to keep them greased and replace them literally upto 10x as often as a OEM bushing.
I changed one of the engine mounts on the VX today. I was in such a rush that I didn't check to see if the bash plate had all 4 bolts in it. I got to the 3rd bolt and rattle gunned it off, immediately after I had a bash plate fall on my head :'(
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46296931]Seems like Hardrace/Megan racing makes them for the s chassis, they are basically a knock off of sorts of the Nismo bushings.[/QUOTE] Oh, I meant to suggest "Harden Rubber" bushings which are harder durometer rubber bushings than OEM. Most OEM's which design a Type-R or race inspired model will use a stiffer bushing. Hardrace makes bushing kits and bushings which are much like these. Also keep in mind to anyone else here that suspension slop and looseness come primarily from broken/worn out parts. Unless a bushing is completely cracked and disintegrating it's probably not going to have a whole lot of effect on handling unless it's something along the lines of trailing arm bushing or compliance/tension arm/traction arm bushing. You'll find far more suspension feel through ball joints, sway bars and springs/shocks. Speaking of worn out/broken parts, I had my clutch replaced last week. Today I broke an axle on the Civic with 95hp of 1.5L fury. [video=youtube;1WflR7RwaPo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WflR7RwaPo[/video] Dropped off from the tow truck :( [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-10-22%2016.55.07.jpg[/t] Mad JDM Tyte 90 degree Camber Axle Mod!! [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-10-22%2020.18.58.jpg[/t] Parts store axle. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/download_20141022_205747.jpeg[/t] Took less than hour to change it, spent most of the time trying to find my axle nut socket that my air compressor was hiding now that I have my harbor freight ball joint popper and know to pop the lower. Straight forward, got it home at 4pm, tore into it at 5 and had it done by dinner at 6:30. First time I've ever had a vehicle break on me and let me down, was also just about the first time a job turned out to be straight forward and easy without complications. Rides smooth as hell at 80 now, super lucky it didn't break when I drove it 150 miles up and back the other day :v:
It just broke? All of a sudden? No prior symptoms?
i was waiting for you to keep swinging it back and forth and it just goes flying
Not really, I noticed a very slight vibration at interstate speeds in the drivers foot well. Other than that, it spun that tire like it should and acted just fine. Although I have noticed that it feels a lot smoother in "tracking" a corner with power delivery, it feels much more smooth and less directional better putting down the corner through different CV angles. I got the car with a ripped passenger boot, it had little to no grease and started having some noticeable vibrations and pulling after an alignment. It was a Autozone special from the 90's and was in visibly worse shape(rustier, ect.) than that drivers side. I replaced that one and it made a huge difference. I tested that drivers a little trying to see if it was torn or worn by checking the boots and seeing if the axle freely moved, everything looked good. I thought nothing of it really, however now I can see it had a very slight tear which probably squeezed out some grease and introduced dirt over many previous years. The car sat for quite a few and was primarily used as a truck for the P.O's home brewing opp and was used as a winter car in Idaho so I would assume all of that degraded the joints but without actually breaking them. OEM axles are actually good for 200k miles as long as they aren't beat on and the boots aren't torn. You could probably make them last the life of the car if you rebuilt them every 75-100k. Honda axles can take an incredible amount of abuse and for years before aftermarket shafts were readily available people would just buy new axles from Honda for $500+ a pop because new ones could take the double or triple stock power reliably. I've met people(multiple) who have been banned from warranty exchanges due to ruining shitty parts store axles upto monthly with motors which just make similar power to a Type-R which uses the same axles. This is even on the equal length axle Integra platform which doesn't have the issues shitty/cheaper unequal length axle setups do where it will slam the same axle every single time due to inferior geometry. But yeah, I tried to launch it somewhat mildly in the wet and it literally just went nowhere and made absolutely terrible grinding noises. I just had the clutch done a week ago, at first I thought I blew up the diff, shattered the input shaft bearing, exploded the clutch plate, or something along those lines since it's always possible that something was on the verge of failing and the new clutch could shatter it. I laughed my ass off when it was just an axle, I've never broken anything on a car before despite treating my cars very hard by most standards. Short of a bad wheel bearing and a timing belt that wasn't changed and the car was sold to me with the impression it was, I've never had anything but the ordinary such as a cracked plastic radiator or rear caliper issues even happen to me. Although much of that is due to proper maintenance and replacing parts when they wear out. [editline]22nd October 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=CubeManv2;46309086]i was waiting for you to keep swinging it back and forth and it just goes flying[/QUOTE] The boot is the only thing holding it on lol, you can sort of see the joint poking out. The second to top rib in the pic of it bent is actually the joint pushing against the boot completely detached. Now I want to cut it apart but it's still got a good bit a grease in it.. [editline]22nd October 2014[/editline] Oh, also to specify this was the 25 year old OEM axle that broke. The Autozone one was about to fail when I replaced it with probably like half the life of this one.
That's exactly what happened when I blew my cv in my vibe. I pulled a U-turn and powered away in 2nd, then bang, and grinding. I thought I grenaded the clutch or something and car didn't move. After that though, I replaced the CV shaft with 2 different axles, and neither one stayed in the trans because the ring in the trans was fucked. It constantly fell out on that side.
Oh yeah, you had that nightmarish Vibe. Luckily a cable d series trans costs like 125 tops even if it did break in an impossible way. I've never heard of a Honda having an issue like that either. Broken axles are fairly common though.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46315031]Oh yeah, you had that nightmarish Vibe[/QUOTE] Yup... that's the one.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46315129]Yup... that's the one.[/QUOTE] I remember that thread. I think it was that one where you fought the law (dealership) and you came out on top?
[QUOTE=>VLN<;46315148]I remember that thread. I think it was that one where you fought the law (dealership) and you came out on top?[/QUOTE] Yup. I got rid of the car, didn't owe anything, and as far as my credit is concerned, I never bought a car. They never reported any of it to the credit agencies I guess. 8 months total I did not pay for it. Unfortunately I didn't get to scrap it myself. The company sent a flatbed from Washington to the mechanic, and took it. I think evidence was the key to that one. I guess I came out on top minues the money I paid, but it did serve me ok for 2 years, and made for good storage of stuff inside it while it sat.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46315246]Yup. I got rid of the car, didn't owe anything, and as far as my credit is concerned, I never bought a car. They never reported any of it to the credit agencies I guess. 8 months total I did not pay for it. Unfortunately I didn't get to scrap it myself. The company sent a flatbed from Washington to the mechanic, and took it. I think evidence was the key to that one. I guess I came out on top minues the money I paid, but it did serve me ok for 2 years, and made for good storage of stuff inside it while it sat.[/QUOTE] Thanks for the long awaited update. I just read that thread and wondered what happened to it. Crazy that the dealership actually paid close to a grand to ship that piece of junk back to Washington. (So they can sell it again, probably). You never did tell us the name of the dealership? What is it?
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