• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
After having the battery in my Saab go dead for the third time, I went and got a new battery for it at Biltema. 75Ah, 720CCA, 4 year warranty for $145. I've been charging it all day, gonna put it in tomorrow.
I gave my brother a hand replacing some of the lights in his 2000 Corolla with LEDs. The one in his shifter was completely burnt out and he wanted to replace it, which was a lot more work than we imagined. Had to take out the center console, loosen the lower dash panels under the glovebox and under the steering wheel, remove the center dash, pop out all the compartments and then finally remove the plastic around the gear shifter. Then of course, the bulb replacement itself probably took like, 15 seconds at most. I was a little jealous that his instrument cluster lights barely took five minutes to replace since you can just unscrew a cover, pop it off, unscrew the cluster and pop it off. Whereas my car requires you to remove the top of the dash, unbolt the cluster, disassemble the cluster carefully, desolder the existing bulbs from the PCB and finally solder in replacements. Tomorrow, depending on how much I want to avoid schoolwork, I may take the rear badges off the Cavalier. I've always though gold Chevrolet logo around the trunk keyhole was ugly and the "Cavalier" badge isn't exactly in good shape.
[QUOTE=benjgvps;46443486]I was a little jealous that his instrument cluster lights barely took five minutes to replace since you can just unscrew a cover, pop it off, unscrew the cluster and pop it off. Whereas my car requires you to remove the top of the dash, unbolt the cluster, disassemble the cluster carefully, desolder the existing bulbs from the PCB and finally solder in replacements.[/QUOTE] Both of my Nissans are like that, 2-4 phillips screws to remove cover, 4 phillips screws to remove cluster, twist out bulbs... so I was a little mind blown when I found out I had to remove the entire top of the dash just to replace the cluster in my friend's Cavalier. Fortunately it's not really that hard to get off but it just seems like so much more disassembly than necessary for something like that lol
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;46443619]Both of my Nissans are like that, 2-4 phillips screws to remove cover, 4 phillips screws to remove cluster, twist out bulbs... so I was a little mind blown when I found out I had to remove the entire top of the dash just to replace the cluster in my friend's Cavalier. Fortunately it's not really that hard to get off but it just seems like so much more disassembly than necessary for something like that lol[/QUOTE] wow, mine comes out with a pair of radio keys and some effort
Found out why my coilovers in the back were riding so rough. The kit came with no documentation, so I set them to be as long as the factory shocks. Turns out that's not long enough. This is with the car sitting on the ground. Looks like it's on the rubber bump stop. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2CTOaR0l.jpg[/IMG] With it in the air: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/B6tQyPOl.jpg[/IMG]
Your springs are on the lowest they can be. Maybe that's your problem
Ldesu is right, your springs are what sets your ride height, the shocks are only there to absorb the sudden movements of the vehicle and to counteract the bounciness of the springs. If your shocks are set to tight (stiff), the car will bounce. If too loose (soft), it'll feel like its floating and can bottom out. Loosen your shocks to near min spec and tighten up your springs, then bounce the back of the car and tighten up the shocks till it doesn't bounce more then half a movement (or travel length/amount). Remember how far the car bounces with the shocks set (near) lowest, it'll help you figure out what the "movement" is.
And always remember that coilovers are inherently rough. Watch how a LeMans car rides over the rougher parts of the track, same idea. It's performance suspension, as opposed to just simple lowering springs.
Did a few things over the weekend to finalize the winterizing of my car and my roomie's car. -Rust-proofed the undercarriage, doors, fenders, wells, under-hood, trunk, etc. Both my car and my buddy's one. -Already had installed my winter tires with my bf the other weekend, but they had been leaking ever since, at least the two up front, so plugged a nail in one and got the other one re-rimmed, since it was leaking horribly at the bead on one side. Both are fixed and holding their air. -Changed my oil, 4500km on it, was still golden, yay for clean engine. -As usual, did a small inspection on components, everything checks good. Will be overhauling suspension once summer comes back though. Probably gonna lower it 1.8" up front and 1.6" in the back, going to get oversized end links, new swaybars bushing(GMPP ones are already on anyways.), new top mounts aswell. Struts only have 80k on them and they're HD FE3 ones. If they let go, I'll replace them, it's not a big job anyways. It's just that these FE3 are worth around 200$ a pop. I'm still debating about getting an intercooler and a 3.2" pulley to go on the blower. Car is still technically capable to pull low-midish 13's on the quarter. But I am unsure if I want to spend 1000$ on such thing or if I want to buy a RWD classic to restore next summer or even a truck to go offroading.
Started tearing down the front of the motor in the hardbody to replace the timing chain guides and tensioner, got about this far [t]http://i.imgur.com/KCumcCo.jpg[/t] plus pulled the crank pulley but took a sizable chunk out of my pinky in the process so I called it a night lol... to be continued. Still got a thermostat and fuel filter waiting to go in, too.
I have a question to the Canadians and arctic/cold climate people here, what can I do to reduce the efficiency of my cooling system for winter safely? Winter has come around here in Oregon and the overkill cooling system in my Civic almost doesn't allow it to warm up. Later D series cars use a half size single core because of this I would assume. I can drive for 5-10 minutes before it'll even get near operating temp and if I attempt to use the heater the heater will cool down and I'll have to turn it down and wait for a while til it gets hot. I already have my license plate zip tied in the middle of the grill on the side without a fan. It's not going to get above 15c for the winter with lows usually around 0-6c currently with somewhat minor dips below freezing plenty possible. I've heard cardboard over radiators and other things mentioned before but I was wondering if covering up half the radiator was common or some sort of other modifications. The entire cooling system is brand new short of the heater core, a 4" section of heater core hose, heater valve and the overflow tank. There isn't a single old part or hose left so it works at it's best too. I've seen my fuel economy drop 5-6mpg just this tank because the car hasn't been warming up on it's normal routes.
Pretty sure they block the grill or cover the radiator with either cardboard or a purpose built flap, like a hoodbra. But I've never dealt with very cold weather living here in Wa.
This damn car is just stupidly over cooled, my Integra has significantly worse cooling and people who turbo them fight overheating almost no matter what they do partially of the license plate. I have noticed removing my license plate on the Integra has significantly increased the duration to warm up in the winter where as using it to block part of the grill in my Civic does nothing. It's about the same down here, according to average temps you actually are colder and we get hotter.. This car was definitely over designed for A/C, P/S, automatic, 300-400lbs more in wagon/AWD form and a DOHC ZC or B16A. I don't even want to know what the 70hp carb'd 1.2/1.3 from cold parts of Europe was like in lower than STD form.
What. The weather app on my phone said it was 33f about a half hour ago...now its 47f? [editline]11th November 2014[/editline] Also, only honda would over engineer the cooling system of a base model car.
Well it's still 36f here and has been just about since 7pm. I can't just put a half core in either because the stupid front crossmember.. Although the radiator is 6 months old and I'd be damned if I'll replace it because my heater doesn't get hot fast enough and the fuel economy is shit. :v:
[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10513313_10152851526285281_7961123268823884732_n.jpg?oh=8594d351d753f131042caf697b5afb84&oe=54EA21DC&__gda__=1424451431_05bd407612a16d2c06a4af70c1969290[/IMG] [IMG]https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10378554_10152851526245281_6066125731015478465_n.jpg?oh=ac3b662a712ea658bd7b9f0d3a711fea&oe=54D55DFB[/IMG] [IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10730780_10152851526255281_3273407808795049258_n.jpg?oh=6699a245d9d314bdce39df546a6f06c4&oe=551B17FF&__gda__=1424626688_e2b07ea1b4b543b762cb45474893dd32[/IMG] [IMG]http://s24.postimg.org/snm82vnud/edit.png[/IMG] Buddy and I recreated the crashing of the Exxon Valdez yesterday. Then we drank beer
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46461816]Well it's still 36f here and has been just about since 7pm. I can't just put a half core in either because the stupid front crossmember.. Although the radiator is 6 months old and I'd be damned if I'll replace it because my heater doesn't get hot fast enough and the fuel economy is shit. :v:[/QUOTE] Hood insulation? Or block off some parts of the bottom so when your driving air/snow doesnt get drawn up into the engine compartment? You can also replace your thermostat with a hotter one so when it does get warm it stays warmer. Is your electric fan coming on when its trying to heat up? If you dont run the heat immidiately it will get warmer faster because the heater core acts like a second radiator (so it you got that bitch runnin at mach 4 your essentially running a second radiator and fan.
[QUOTE=InsanePyro;46462796] Buddy and I recreated the crashing of the Exxon Valdez yesterday. Then we drank beer[/QUOTE] as long as you don;t have well water, it's fine!
[QUOTE=xplicitt;46463991]as long as you don;t have well water, it's fine![/QUOTE] Yeah I found out where the leak engine was gushing oil from real quick. I felt bad but there wasn't much I could do
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46461617]I have a question to the Canadians and arctic/cold climate people here, what can I do to reduce the efficiency of my cooling system for winter safely? Winter has come around here in Oregon and the overkill cooling system in my Civic almost doesn't allow it to warm up. Later D series cars use a half size single core because of this I would assume.[/QUOTE] Put cardboard in front of the radiator. My temp gauge barely moves past C unless I do, and the engine sounds much better after being able to warm up in the cold. I made a little hook to attach to my cardboard that hooks up above the radiator to hold it in place
What temp thermostat you running?
[QUOTE=clutch2;46465011]What temp thermostat you running?[/QUOTE] Creative [b]should[/b] be running a 190*F ish one....
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46463107]Hood insulation? Or block off some parts of the bottom so when your driving air/snow doesnt get drawn up into the engine compartment? You can also replace your thermostat with a hotter one so when it does get warm it stays warmer. Is your electric fan coming on when its trying to heat up? If you dont run the heat immidiately it will get warmer faster because the heater core acts like a second radiator (so it you got that bitch runnin at mach 4 your essentially running a second radiator and fan.[/QUOTE] Everyone ignore this guy till he shows us proof of him working on his Dart.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46463107]Hood insulation? Or block off some parts of the bottom so when your driving air/snow doesnt get drawn up into the engine compartment? You can also replace your thermostat with a hotter one so when it does get warm it stays warmer. Is your electric fan coming on when its trying to heat up? If you dont run the heat immidiately it will get warmer faster because the heater core acts like a second radiator (so it you got that bitch runnin at mach 4 your essentially running a second radiator and fan.[/QUOTE] It doesn't have a hood insulator, it was an option on JDM/CDM cars though. We really don't get snow, just tons of rain. Hondas don't run properly if you mess with the thermostat, they only sell cooler ones as stock is 195f. The electric fan only comes on at a stop after a long while. It very rarely comes on because of the silly cooling system. [QUOTE=creative;46464942]Put cardboard in front of the radiator. My temp gauge barely moves past C unless I do, and the engine sounds much better after being able to warm up in the cold. I made a little hook to attach to my cardboard that hooks up above the radiator to hold it in place[/QUOTE] It rains a ton here and its parked outside, cardboard seems like a bad idea. My concern about this is how much to cover and to keep it functional for when it warms up since our weather is bipolar. Today I drove 8+ miles and it just came up to the C on the gauge and got the heater warm. It was only 44f outside...
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;46455327]Did a few things over the weekend to finalize the winterizing of my car and my roomie's car. -Rust-proofed the undercarriage, doors, fenders, wells, under-hood, trunk, etc. Both my car and my buddy's one. [/QUOTE] How did you go about rust proofing? I would love to do something like that do my car. My grandad uses WD40 to clean the good bits and CHECK for rust, but I know that doesn't hold up long. Also there's already a gross amount of surface discoloration + rust just from the previous 4 winters and innumerable rocks and things it's seen.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46468494]It doesn't have a hood insulator, it was an option on JDM/CDM cars though. We really don't get snow, just tons of rain. Hondas don't run properly if you mess with the thermostat, they only sell cooler ones as stock is 195f. The electric fan only comes on at a stop after a long while. It very rarely comes on because of the silly cooling system. It rains a ton here and its parked outside, cardboard seems like a bad idea. My concern about this is how much to cover and to keep it functional for when it warms up since our weather is bipolar. Today I drove 8+ miles and it just came up to the C on the gauge and got the heater warm. It was only 44f outside...[/QUOTE] wrap a chunk of cardboard in duct tape voila, waterproof cardboard. then just make some easy mounts for it and pull it out when you dont need it.
Flushed the heater core and rad in my Sable, still no heat. Both inlet and outlet hoses for the heater are hot, the vent door actuator is working as it should. I suppose that means the heater core is fucked. Pulling the dash this weekend to get into it ughh I should have worked on this over the summer rather than try to jury rig it right as the polar vortex swings into full motion.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46465011]What temp thermostat you running?[/QUOTE] Like DP said, it should be a 189f thermostat, no indication that its been changed and that's the stock. Keep in mind it's frequently in the -10 to -25f range before adding in windchill in the winter here [QUOTE=slayer3032;46468494]It rains a ton here and its parked outside, cardboard seems like a bad idea. My concern about this is how much to cover and to keep it functional for when it warms up since our weather is bipolar. Today I drove 8+ miles and it just came up to the C on the gauge and got the heater warm. It was only 44f outside...[/QUOTE] I tried to cover the entire radiator up, but the cardboard sat in loosely so it's not blocking the air flow entirely, just the vast bulk of frigid air. I've left it in when it was around 50f and it was fine, stayed dead center on the temp gauge, but I usually try take it out when its over freezing. As for rain, IDK, you could get a sheet of hard plastic or something similar but I've never had a problem with snow getting in and melting on my cardboard. But regardless, something blocking some of the cold air from hitting your radiator helps a ton, some trucks are sold with grill covers for cold weather
[QUOTE=EagleEye;46468865]Flushed the heater core and rad in my Sable, still no heat. Both inlet and outlet hoses for the heater are hot, the vent door actuator is working as it should. I suppose that means the heater core is fucked. Pulling the dash this weekend to get into it ughh I should have worked on this over the summer rather than try to jury rig it right as the polar vortex swings into full motion.[/QUOTE] If you have hot inlet and outlets then hot water is passing through. Are you sure the vent door is actually being commanded to open, you may have a vacuum leak to the door. Heater cores don't just go bad without any other issues in the cooling system.
[sp]heater cores(and other components) can go bad from coolant electrolysis too! neat shit[/sp]
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