• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Ordered: 3 U Joints New Battery Terminals Battery Hold Down Latch Window Weatherstripping Fuse Holder Coolant Temp Sensor
[QUOTE=TheStabbyBunny;46468595]How did you go about rust proofing? I would love to do something like that do my car. My grandad uses WD40 to clean the good bits and CHECK for rust, but I know that doesn't hold up long. Also there's already a gross amount of surface discoloration + rust just from the previous 4 winters and innumerable rocks and things it's seen.[/QUOTE] Rust check thick undercoating stuff.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46469143]If you have hot inlet and outlets then hot water is passing through. Are you sure the vent door is actually being commanded to open, you may have a vacuum leak to the door. Heater cores don't just go bad without any other issues in the cooling system.[/QUOTE] The lever that controls both the doors is moving as far as it'll go in both directions. I removed the actuator and moved the lever by hand. If the doors aren't moving for some reason I'll still have to pull the heater core to look at them. I really don't know what else it could be. Flushed the whole thing 3 times, a new thermostat and a new reservoir (not all at once, but still)
[QUOTE=creative;46468874]Like DP said, it should be a 189f thermostat, no indication that its been changed and that's the stock. Keep in mind it's frequently in the -10 to -25f range before adding in windchill in the winter here I tried to cover the entire radiator up, but the cardboard sat in loosely so it's not blocking the air flow entirely, just the vast bulk of frigid air. I've left it in when it was around 50f and it was fine, stayed dead center on the temp gauge, but I usually try take it out when its over freezing. As for rain, IDK, you could get a sheet of hard plastic or something similar but I've never had a problem with snow getting in and melting on my cardboard. But regardless, something blocking some of the cold air from hitting your radiator helps a ton, some trucks are sold with grill covers for cold weather[/QUOTE] Hmm okay, I think I'll block half the radiator for now with cardboard and see what happens. We usually get a slight dusting to an inch once a year if we even do. Last year we had 9" which was the most since the 70s. We just get lots of rain and its always wet, its also not below freezing a whole lot so instead of frozen cardboard I get limp wet stuff lol. I'm just iffy because D series motors blow headgaskets if they look funny at the temp gauge. I bought this car with one and I'm not doing it again lol. Making it a sort of half size should be what I'm looking at really. [editline]11th November 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=EagleEye;46469596]The lever that controls both the doors is moving as far as it'll go in both directions. I removed the actuator and moved the lever by hand. If the doors aren't moving for some reason I'll still have to pull the heater core to look at them. I really don't know what else it could be. Flushed the whole thing 3 times, a new thermostat and a new reservoir (not all at once, but still)[/QUOTE] You could try sticking the hose into the heater core, its possible it could not be flowing much. If you are looking at replacing it I'd blast water through it before tearing the dash off. You're positive the heater valve is working on the hose right?
[QUOTE=Serj22;46467396]Everyone ignore this guy till he shows us proof of him working on his Dart.[/QUOTE] I PULLED THE QUARTER OFF AND BANGED SOME DENTS OUT F-youuuuuuu Sellin ma jeepski fer 10k tomorrow and buying a WRX sti sube on thusday-friday if it checks out, checking out one tonight will get pics
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46469201][sp]heater cores(and other components) can go bad from coolant electrolysis too! neat shit[/sp][/QUOTE] Why the spoiler tags?
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46470758]I PULLED THE QUARTER OFF AND BANGED SOME DENTS OUT F-youuuuuuu Sellin ma jeepski fer 10k tomorrow and buying a WRX sti sube on thusday-friday if it checks out, checking out one tonight will get pics[/QUOTE] Once you have the WRX, pull the entire drivetrain, and put it in the Dart, or I'll order everyone to ignore and shun you again.
Who made you the boss? I swear you damn dart owners think just because you have the equivalent to a gas powered cummins that you can run the fuckin' show here Well you can Please dont hurt me
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46468494]It doesn't have a hood insulator, it was an option on JDM/CDM cars though. We really don't get snow, just tons of rain. Hondas don't run properly if you mess with the thermostat, they only sell cooler ones as stock is 195f. The electric fan only comes on at a stop after a long while. It very rarely comes on because of the silly cooling system. It rains a ton here and its parked outside, cardboard seems like a bad idea. My concern about this is how much to cover and to keep it functional for when it warms up since our weather is bipolar. Today I drove 8+ miles and it just came up to the C on the gauge and got the heater warm. It was only 44f outside...[/QUOTE] coroplast, usually old political signs or gas station cut outs. . looks like plastic cardboard. or gas station cut outs. [img]http://www.oversizechecks.com/uploads/3/3/9/0/3390251/2850680_orig.jpg?434[/img] [URL=http://s227.photobucket.com/user/justinnelson_01/media/010-1_zps4b2c2f0c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd205/justinnelson_01/010-1_zps4b2c2f0c.jpg[/IMG][/URL] i use my scangauge 2 to monitor engine temps im good up to about 60 unless it is a lot of stop and go. and use 4 zip ties to hold it in, i keep a wire cutter or knife with me incase of warmer weather and bad traffic. my car sits 177-180 and 210 it will kick on all fans on high. will hit 200 in the summer at low speeds.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46471902]Who made you the boss? I swear you damn dart owners think just because you have the equivalent to a gas powered cummins that you can run the fuckin' show here Well you can Please dont hurt me[/QUOTE] You're forgiven. Pull the motor and 4wd as soon as you get the rex.
(That would actually be really fucking cool in a dart) But what will I drive in the meantime?!?!
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46472027](That would actually be really fucking cool in a dart) But what will I drive in the meantime?!?![/QUOTE] Chrysler 300 is dope as fuk
I blew that up reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeel gud, got jeep with insurance money
[t]http://i.imgur.com/bL9r4wQ.jpg[/t] Pulled the harness out of my hatch door yesterday and soldered some new wiring to repair it. Crimp connectors never work. Hopefully my rear defroster and third brake light works again
I JUST FUCKING DRIFTED A DUMP TRUCK My life is complete [editline]12th November 2014[/editline] Fuuuuuuck this car is clean, guy sent more pictures after he took it out of winter storage [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/E877B778-4D35-436F-B97B-D24C2CEAD2C7_zpsdmc57kwp.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/7634D120-6F45-4FC9-9BBF-C32B7677229D_zpssuxgmxt7.jpg[/thumb]
Here's the steering wheel control addition to my Prizrolla all wired up; Moved 2 pins from the cruise harness on the Lexus cruise bits to the Prizm's cruise bits. [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12007_zpsebffc697.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12007_zpsebffc697.jpg[/img][/url] Lexus vs Prizm cruise stalk.. one is a 2 wire setup and the other is a 3 wire, so the one that I originally had needed to be kludged into the Lexus wheel [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12009_zpse76b7eee.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12009_zpse76b7eee.jpg[/img][/url] Fits good enough! [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12012_zpse6cf8531.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12012_zpse6cf8531.jpg[/img][/url] DePinned a Toyota radio harness that was in my tool box and added 2 new pins onto the clockspring harness on the car side. [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12013_zps838fecf0.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12013_zps838fecf0.jpg[/img][/url] From there I went onto the Maestro website and built a custom firmware for a 1-wire 4-button resistance based system. The 'feed wire' was simply ground, and signal wire was what then went from the clockspring to the signal input on the Maestro SW module. I inputted all 4 resistances on the computer and set their commands, and then flashed it, so that all I had to do in the car was plug it in! I also wired ignition from the ignition harness to the final spare wire at the clockspring, and drilled a small rocker switch into the wheel's plastic backing so that I have an on/off switch for the wheel heater right on the wheel itself. So that's that, here's a video of the SWC in action; [video=youtube;4L-3ybZ_jAQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L-3ybZ_jAQ[/video] Not pictured; pulled speaker wire into each of the 4 doors and the trunk and wired it all up to a relay to turn on with the parking lights or a switch if I'd rather run it that way. That's in preparation for the fiber optics :D
I buying this sube I shit my pants when the boost kicked in And i wasnt even driving Its had all the right owners, thing is absolutely PRISTINE all around Has about 360 awhp 19k, includes never mounted studded winter tires, will post more pics later
Well tomorrow; I'll be working on my fuel pump. Luckily I got it into a lot when it died rolling down the road and I have access to a wrecker so no fees on picking it up :) [img]http://i.imgur.com/sE9RWVf.jpg[/img]
More junk The wheel heater elements were waiting for me when I got home today, too. They have a 2 step heating element, either hi or lo depending on which of the 3 wires I hook up. I tested them with a motorcycle battery, sending power through my Prizm's factory clockspring. The battery was a little low, about 11.5V. When I hooked them both up as 'hi' they got HOT. Good lord did they get hot. They also were only at about 7.5V on their side of the clockspring. That means about 4V drop in the clockspring. Pretty hefty. I let them cool, then, and then hooked up 'lo', instead. They still got pretty darn warm, but on the output side of the clock spring they were now at about 9.5V. So a 2v drop in the clockspring.. better chance of it not buring up, I think. I'm probably going to ground them directly to the column (same place the horn gets ground, as opposed to the ground that feeds the SWC and cruise, and see if the column has enough to ground potential so I can take some labor off of that ground signal wire. Ghetooooo [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12015_zpseb633d71.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12015_zpseb633d71.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Anywho, I also got some of the mini rolls of fiber optic today.. did some experimenting. Fuzzy pics taken with a potato [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12016_zps1d70e2c7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12016_zps1d70e2c7.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234041/11-12017_zps6043e92d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234041/11-12017_zps6043e92d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[QUOTE=Hailedbean;46477324]Well tomorrow; I'll be working on my fuel pump. Luckily I got it into a lot when it died rolling down the road and I have access to a wrecker so no fees on picking it up :) [img]http://i.imgur.com/sE9RWVf.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] One 99 Dakota fuel pump at my shop discount cost =196+3 hours=Back on the road. So thankful I'm not a complete idiot on mechanical work, and that I work for a shop. It would have been 400 list price through NAPA+ paying someone to put it in. [img]https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10425135_10154761130605167_20074781711120699_n.jpg?oh=919160bc09931977aced73e2d86557c8&oe=55186995[/img]
Your truck looks really clean, except the box rust but even then its nice
[QUOTE=Hailedbean;46482353]One 99 Dakota fuel pump at my shop discount cost =196+3 hours=Back on the road. So thankful I'm not a complete idiot on mechanical work, and that I work for a shop. It would have been 400 list price through NAPA+ paying someone to put it in. [img]https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10425135_10154761130605167_20074781711120699_n.jpg?oh=919160bc09931977aced73e2d86557c8&oe=55186995[/img][/QUOTE] Even with discounts, parts are awfully expensive at napa, dayum. Even the most expensive one on rockauto is cheaper than what you paid for yours discounted. Doubt it's quality is any better too. But good job on getting back on the road!
Haven't done yet but I'll update when I get these few things done and take some pics. I got a timing belt to do on a Suzuki [del]forester[/del] forenza (brain fart) And a bit later, I have an engine swap to do a friends Chevy 1500. I'm pretty sure the Suzuki is a lost cause if it jumped teeth, which is the theory.
If it's a Forester, it's a Subaru. And if it's a non-interference engine, it's probably fine. [editline]14th November 2014[/editline] Even if it's an interference engine, it could survive jumping a couple teeth.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46487829] Even if it's an interference engine, it could survive jumping a couple teeth.[/QUOTE] Lol. That's the whole idea of interference motors - anything happens with the timing and its fucked.
[img_thumb]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10394615_10152532319281936_8804509422340088553_n.jpg?oh=4cc8cbc0518e7d4635331fb5e539f641&oe=54D8CA68&__gda__=1427822725_1c6613b8e375db0d5d41a9f7be08988c[/img_thumb] [img_thumb]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10734028_10152532319196936_5586649355011370286_n.jpg?oh=2c210bf853a930c116540f50e700634e&oe=551FF2DC&__gda__=1424589193_6938f85485fb0cb886ba301f32b30354[/img_thumb] new suspension fitted, the old one finally gave up after a pot hole incident.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46487829]If it's a Forester, it's a Subaru. And if it's a non-interference engine, it's probably fine. [editline]14th November 2014[/editline] Even if it's an interference engine, it could survive jumping a couple teeth.[/QUOTE] Forenza, little 2.2 D-TEC or something ~googleing~.... Dis: [thumb]http://www.theonecar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/suzuki-samurai-622.jpg[/thumb] [QUOTE=Serj22;46488358]Lol. That's the whole idea of interference [del]motors[/del] [B][I]engines[/I][/B] - anything happens with the timing and its fucked.[/QUOTE] This would be the second time I've managed to get lucky and fix the timing on an interference engine. What scared me was after I got the belt off and made sure all valves were closed, it would bump-stop at TDC and BDC. I figured it was because the pistons were a bit sticky and were putting a bit of force back to me, making it seem that way because after all was back together and about 20 mins of starting with some ether, it fired right the fuck up. Smooth too.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46491785]Forenza, little 2.2 D-TEC or something ~googleing~.... Dis: [thumb]http://www.theonecar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/suzuki-samurai-622.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Ah. Other correct names could be: Buick Excelle Chevy/Daewoo Lacetti Chevy Optra Chevy Estate Chevy/Daewoo Nubira Daewoo Gentra Holden Viva Suzuki Reno Dear child has many names.
[QUOTE=Gulen;46491854]Ah. Other correct names could be: Buick Excelle Chevy/Daewoo Lacetti Chevy Optra Chevy Estate Chevy/Daewoo Nubira Daewoo Gentra Holden Viva Suzuki Reno Dear child has many names.[/QUOTE] Holy Hay-suse, GM really likes to reuse their shit. Speaking of big auto reusing parts on other vehicles, Ive found that the 2.2CL from Acura has for the most part, a large majority of things that fit my Accord. Rims Dash Center console Seats (front for sure, I've now got leathers and a power seat for me :v:) Most of the suspension I'm considering swapping my dash AND center console, unless I cant make it look good, then just the center console. My 95 Accord Dash (roughly): [thumb]http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/Js2d355jf69lsd/Auto/Dash.jpg[/thumb] 97 Acura CL: [thumb]http://photos3.automanager.com/016656/dd0ffaa3dc49b54c8c8ac78c99368085/b47dbed0cf_640.jpg[/thumb] [URL="http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f67/accord-cl-dash-swap-opinions-124470/"]And it seems someone has already done a swap.[/URL] Center console is the only real difference.
The center console looks completely the same though, except from the wood grain.
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