With a bad carb it makes more, the worse it did was an around 2 feet flame. My exhaust does help at making flame towers. (Plumbing fittings :v:)
You know your canadian when you put an exhaust on your snowblower and then make it shoot flames
(And then I go and youtube high performance snowblowers...)
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46553762]You know your canadian when you put an exhaust on your snowblower and then make it shoot flames
(And then I go and youtube high performance snowblowers...)[/QUOTE]
Is it also true that Canadians would rather waste money on Japanese cars than fix the perfectly good American Machine in their aircraft hangar?
I like my Canadian built American car.
How I see my posts: "Man this sandwich is good"
How Serj sees it:
[QUOTE=Serj22;46555842]I like to waste perfectly good money on things that aren't dodge darts[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46555990]How I see my posts: "Man this sandwich is good"
How Serj sees it:[/QUOTE]
[video=youtube;7N9J7PLps_8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7N9J7PLps_8[/video]
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;46555905]I like my Canadian built American car.[/QUOTE]
I like my Canadian built Japanese car!
Gave my car a quick wash and wax in the garage since it's been above zero for once.
I also whipped out the hair dryer and took the two logos off the back, since the "Cavalier" logo was getting pitted and nasty. I've always thought the flat-gold Chevrolet logo around the trunk's keyhole looked tacky, so I took it off as well. I'll hold onto the Chevrolet logo just in case it would look better painted or something.
Shitty picture, though I didn't feel like backing it out of the garage:
EDIT: Better picture:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/LpC1rJO.jpg[/t]
I think it looks a lot better.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46560220]I like my Canadian built Japanese car![/QUOTE]
I like my American Built... American Car.
More sound deadening. It was raining, so i focused on an area that i can have all my supplies inside for.
The first step a few days ago, i applied in 45F. None of that has peeled thus far. I tried to pull it off, its stuck pretty good.
Maybe my prep made it stick better?
Today was 65F, noticed it feels maybe 50% tackier
Anyways, this picture is under the rear seat;
[T]http://i.imgur.com/iRdAG71.jpg[/t]
Much more to come, no where near finished.
Did some hose and vacuum line rerouting, deleting a bracket that was in the way and didn't really fit anymore, plus sacrificed a piece or two of it cuz it had lines I needed.
For the greater good.
Also took off and inspected/tested the main linear shift solenoid for issues. None detected.
Next is the A/B shift solenoid which is located UNDER the starter. That'll be fun, I just hope it's filters/gasket is in good enough shape to reuse temporarily till I can get another.
Been trying to troubleshoot a pop in the rear end that I get whenever I am turning right or left and the suspension shifts weight for over a year now. Started out with replacing all my exhaust rubber hangers as I had a couple broken ones and that seemed to make it go away for a short while.
Then I replaced my stock 14mm swaybar with a 24mm OEM Type-R swaybar and a subframe brace since I figured it was a bad swaybar link. Couple months before this I put used JDM Type-R struts all around to remove my previously crap suspension along with changing to the "box type" LCAs to use the eye style lower shock mounts instead of the forks that get horribly seized up sometimes. I do believe it was popping at this point too but this was a long time back.
I figured it was my rear upper control arms which were camber kits from the previous struts I had which lowered my car more and I absolutely hated. I had sold my fronts off when I did all the struts since they previously liked to hit the shock towers at full compression and were absolute shit quality. So yesterday I swapped them out for my better condition OEM UCAs which had 100k more miles on them, figured one of the crap bushings failed.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2006.57.17.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2006.58.10.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2007.42.02.jpg[/t]
I guess the jackasses who did my alignment at Goodyear since I needed it ASAP didn't understand how to spin the body like a tierod.. The bushings were more worn than my OEM ones after 15k miles vs 130k miles but perfectly fine although the other side which wasn't fully retard adjusted looked good...
Fucking car still pops. I tightened up my bumper a little, reset the tophat of the right rear strut and spun down the strut rod nut a little since it seemed loose. This SEEMED to quiet it slightly and make it disappear for a short bit but it came back just as usual so I'm guessing it was just unsettled suspension.
My trailing arm bushings have less than 30k miles and the left side is actually a little weaker since I wiggled both sides without the UCA on. The struts are OEM units from a 98 JDM Type-R and would be low miles since they never have more than 65k ever. The bushings in the LCAs and the bottom strut mount are a little worn/stretched but far from broken. The swaybar is all brand new OEM parts other than the rubber eye bushing metal collars since they are $11 each and I could just reuse mine.
There's nothing I can wiggle, move or budge by hand at all in the rear end other than the exhaust which has all new hangers. The only other parts in the rear suspension that haven't been touched since it developed are the tow compensator arms which I'm pretty sure aren't even load bearing at all and just adjust the toe angle at the front of the trailing arm and the trailing arm it's self.
I'm gonna be consulting a mechanic and a alignment/suspension/brake shop since everyone I know is completely stumped by it even more than myself. I don't mind replacing any parts on it at all but I'm concerned that the trailing arm could be bent because it was the side that I "V" shaped a trailing arm bushing on in the couple thousand miles of me learning to drive.. I don't understand how it could be something from 50k miles(or 30-35k when it started) now after I did it.
Power steering issues on the 330ci = fixed.
Just replaced the pump after finding out what went wrong with my old one and dropping it, spewing parts everywhere.
:v:
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46570914]Been trying to troubleshoot a pop in the rear end that I get whenever I am turning right or left and the suspension shifts weight for over a year now. Started out with replacing all my exhaust rubber hangers as I had a couple broken ones and that seemed to make it go away for a short while.
Then I replaced my stock 14mm swaybar with a 24mm OEM Type-R swaybar and a subframe brace since I figured it was a bad swaybar link. Couple months before this I put used JDM Type-R struts all around to remove my previously crap suspension along with changing to the "box type" LCAs to use the eye style lower shock mounts instead of the forks that get horribly seized up sometimes. I do believe it was popping at this point too but this was a long time back.
I figured it was my rear upper control arms which were camber kits from the previous struts I had which lowered my car more and I absolutely hated. I had sold my fronts off when I did all the struts since they previously liked to hit the shock towers at full compression and were absolute shit quality. So yesterday I swapped them out for my better condition OEM UCAs which had 100k more miles on them, figured one of the crap bushings failed.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2006.57.17.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2006.58.10.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-24%2007.42.02.jpg[/t]
I guess the jackasses who did my alignment at Goodyear since I needed it ASAP didn't understand how to spin the body like a tierod.. The bushings were more worn than my OEM ones after 15k miles vs 130k miles but perfectly fine although the other side which wasn't fully retard adjusted looked good...
Fucking car still pops. I tightened up my bumper a little, reset the tophat of the right rear strut and spun down the strut rod nut a little since it seemed loose. This SEEMED to quiet it slightly and make it disappear for a short bit but it came back just as usual so I'm guessing it was just unsettled suspension.
My trailing arm bushings have less than 30k miles and the left side is actually a little weaker since I wiggled both sides without the UCA on. The struts are OEM units from a 98 JDM Type-R and would be low miles since they never have more than 65k ever. The bushings in the LCAs and the bottom strut mount are a little worn/stretched but far from broken. The swaybar is all brand new OEM parts other than the rubber eye bushing metal collars since they are $11 each and I could just reuse mine.
There's nothing I can wiggle, move or budge by hand at all in the rear end other than the exhaust which has all new hangers. The only other parts in the rear suspension that haven't been touched since it developed are the tow compensator arms which I'm pretty sure aren't even load bearing at all and just adjust the toe angle at the front of the trailing arm and the trailing arm it's self.
I'm gonna be consulting a mechanic and a alignment/suspension/brake shop since everyone I know is completely stumped by it even more than myself. I don't mind replacing any parts on it at all but I'm concerned that the trailing arm could be bent because it was the side that I "V" shaped a trailing arm bushing on in the couple thousand miles of me learning to drive.. I don't understand how it could be something from 50k miles(or 30-35k when it started) now after I did it.[/QUOTE]
I still don't understand why you are using used suspension parts, are Honda parts really that expensive?
[QUOTE=Serj22;46566509]I like my American Built... American Car.[/QUOTE]
I like my American Built American Trucks.
And my NJ built American truck I used to own as well.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46572589]I still don't understand why you are using used suspension parts, are Honda parts really that expensive?[/QUOTE]
They can be, [URL="https://www.google.com/search?q=95+honda+accord+iacv&num=100&client=firefox-a&hs=KM4&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=7-x0VInvG8SkNrGUhIgN&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1680&bih=864"]an IACV is somewhere around $180~ +[/URL], and the EGR tube only comes from Honda themselves at $250.
At least for my Accord V6. Some places like O'Reillys and a few online places have parts for a bit cheaper.
Junkyard is a lot cheaper
Trailer came in from FL in super ultra danger mode as per usual(seriously dont ever rent a u-haul in florida). So i had to replace the hand wheel assy on the trailer tongue, and a marker light was out so i replaced that too.
I was proud i was the first to touch its virgin wires and I made a point to cut the FIRST wire splice out and start with a fresh one instead of beginning the usual piggy back of 8+ strands of old wires spliced to the current light.
And then I realize i forgot the little metal cover piece because you have to slip the wire through said metal cover piece.
A very uhaul repair if I say so myself.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46575640]Trailer came in from FL in super ultra danger mode as per usual(seriously dont ever rent a u-haul in florida). So i had to replace the hand wheel assy on the trailer tongue, and a marker light was out so i replaced that too.
I was proud i was the first to touch its virgin wires and I made a point to cut the FIRST wire splice out and start with a fresh one instead of beginning the usual piggy back of 8+ strands of old wires spliced to the current light.
And then I realize i forgot the little metal cover piece because you have to slip the wire through said metal cover piece.
A very uhaul repair if I say so myself.[/QUOTE]
Budget and Penske are far better then those u-haul death traps.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46572589]I still don't understand why you are using used suspension parts, are Honda parts really that expensive?[/QUOTE]
I regret using the used LCAs as I paid $50 for the pair of them when they are $62 each from Honda. However, if I just wanted the Type-R springs I would be paying 80-100 PER spring new because Honda most likely only has a few left on the shelves not to mention the OEM ITR shocks are $200 each without any hardware at all.
Aftermarket stuff really isn't any cheaper than any other car, good shocks cost 500-600. Aftermarket springs, 300ish. What I did is actually very very uncommon as 90% of Honda owners just care how low they can go, what shitty popular parts they own and how much they can inflict actual body damage to their car from having compromised suspension.
Instead low mile parts from Japan are dirt cheap and no different than buying and driving a 35-70k mile car. Honda OEM parts last over 100k miles. I primarily wanted to get Type-R springs to replace the garbage aftermarket junk I previously bought based on advice that idiots that have no standards in vehicles other than low post. The upside was all I had to do was drop the old ones out and slide the new ones in. If the shocks were blown I plan/planed to replace them with superior Bilstein units valved and designed for the Type-R application anyways which are the only recommended replacement shocks for a Type-R other than Koni Yellows. The shocks aren't blown or really even degraded either, they still work very well.
I wanted OEM, so I got OEM units which probably have maybe 50k on them and I got them cheap to my door. I wanted to be 100% sure that my suspension would have correct geometry, not carve up the tires and tear up fender liners. Not really sure what's wrong with that.
The biggest problem with Integras is that while they are identical in geometry and design to the 92-95 Civic and other cheaper platforms, aftermarket replacement parts are almost always multi-application despite having different bushings, valving, spring rates, mounts, bearings, compounds, casting and strength in many many places. Suspension is one of the biggest issues with this. They really aren't Civics even though most people want to write them off as a nicer Civic, they drive significantly different from one.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46576543]I regret using the used LCAs as I paid $50 for the pair of them when they are $62 each from Honda. However, if I just wanted the Type-R springs I would be paying 80-100 PER spring new because Honda most likely only has a few left on the shelves not to mention the OEM ITR shocks are $200 each without any hardware at all.
Aftermarket stuff really isn't any cheaper than any other car, good shocks cost 500-600. Aftermarket springs, 300ish. What I did is actually very very uncommon as 90% of Honda owners just care how low they can go, what shitty popular parts they own and how much they can inflict actual body damage to their car from having compromised suspension.
Instead low mile parts from Japan are dirt cheap and no different than buying and driving a 35-70k mile car. Honda OEM parts last over 100k miles. I primarily wanted to get Type-R springs to replace the garbage aftermarket junk I previously bought based on advice that idiots that have no standards in vehicles other than low post. The upside was all I had to do was drop the old ones out and slide the new ones in. If the shocks were blown I plan/planed to replace them with superior Bilstein units valved and designed for the Type-R application anyways which are the only recommended replacement shocks for a Type-R other than Koni Yellows. The shocks aren't blown or really even degraded either, they still work very well.
I wanted OEM, so I got OEM units which probably have maybe 50k on them and I got them cheap to my door. I wanted to be 100% sure that my suspension would have correct geometry, not carve up the tires and tear up fender liners. Not really sure what's wrong with that.
The biggest problem with Integras is that while they are identical in geometry and design to the 92-95 Civic and other cheaper platforms, aftermarket replacement parts are almost always multi-application despite having different bushings, valving, spring rates, mounts, bearings, compounds, casting and strength in many many places. Suspension is one of the biggest issues with this. They really aren't Civics even though most people want to write them off as a nicer Civic, they drive significantly different from one.[/QUOTE]
I don't get why Honda parts are more expensive than the top quality straight from Mercedes parts I buy for my S-Class...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/3FlS3Tf.jpg[/t]
Installed a kill switch in my 240SX today. I used one of the unused gauge cluster surround buttons. I soldered in new length wire in and made it look OEM. This way if someone were to hotwire my key tumbler they can't start my car no matter how hard they try
Uploaded some photos today
Here's a nightmare.. 2014 Corolla for a Viper 5901 remote start, smart start cellphone module, proximity keyless entry, push button start conversion, window/sunroof closer module, and of course the bypass for the security chip in the key
Start with this
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0178_zpsf261f6d5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0178_zpsf261f6d5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Getting there
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0179_zps8827a2d5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0179_zps8827a2d5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ready to go in
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0180_zps8d917829.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0180_zps8d917829.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
On the flip side.. a chevy Sonic remote start.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0176_zpsf2a511f0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0176_zpsf2a511f0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
An Audi Q7 supercharged engine
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0166_zps354fc2d6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0166_zps354fc2d6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
That darn Subaru
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0175_zps726ef697.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0175_zps726ef697.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Wanted a quick removal for his amp/sub box.. a 220V plug set did the trick
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0177_zps69865fc6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0177_zps69865fc6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Little bit more fuzzies for the Jaguar Vanden Plas
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0165_zps951b0563.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0165_zps951b0563.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Something heinous happened to this groundwire
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0159_zpsa9e5e962.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0159_zpsa9e5e962.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0158_zpse84dec50.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0158_zpse84dec50.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
A really nice RSX
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0157_zps8f351ae1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0157_zps8f351ae1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And some lighting on a Silverado
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0146_zps1b9f2e43.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0146_zps1b9f2e43.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0143_zpsc9ae9f4a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0143_zpsc9ae9f4a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234042/IMG_0144_zpsa13a7505.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234042/IMG_0144_zpsa13a7505.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Don't remember if I posted this one.. front lighting on an SRT-4
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234034/IMG_0139_zpscc195801.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234034/IMG_0139_zpscc195801.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[QUOTE=Slithers;46576988]I don't get why Honda parts are more expensive than the top quality straight from Mercedes parts I buy for my S-Class...[/QUOTE]
Because Honda's OEM parts are top quality. Aftermarket replacements generally struggle to last 1/3rd of the mileage that OEM parts work perfectly fine through. The list price of the OEM parts also never goes down through Honda, it only goes up as stock is depleted and eventually discontinued. German manufacturers seem to have always heavily supported their previous models and make reproduction/replacement parts for their classic cars. I'd bet serious money that many of your replacement parts have been superseded and are now manufactured by a mediocre-good company and don't match up to the real deal original part. Sure they're to "OEM spec" and most likely better than any parts store crap replacement but I highly doubt they're better made now as it's not cost effective.
Japanese car makers have always been firmly planted in a forward attitude with a sole concern of making a very good car that lasts a long time but will eventually be cut up and recycled before it's actual useful life has been expended thoroughly. They make a quality product which they want the consumer to buy every 5-10 years and have those years be trouble free, after that it's up to the owners and the aftermarket. You have to remember these are Japanese cars and designed to standards for the Japanese market, read up about the shaken test it's quite interesting. [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor-vehicle_inspection_%28Japan%29[/url]
This only really holds true to pre-early2000's though and the rise of china everything, now everyone makes cheap disposable cars again. Build quality is garbage compared to what it used to be, the only upside is that they've found out how to make cheaper parts that last similarly to what a well made part did.
Went to the closed parts store to buy muffler repair crap and then went home.
Fixed my wiper fluid sprayer.
This involved looking at the wiring connector and seeing an identical one next to it, swapping the plugs and then having them work.
Tested the sunpro tach and it works, but the harness is WAY too short so I'll have to put installing that off even longer.
Filled my washer fluid tank using the washer fluid tank from the other comanche.
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/recycling_zps1b8be4f0.jpg[/img]
[editline]27th November 2014[/editline]
oh and re-installed my dash bezel and radio.
My poor Subie :(
[T]http://i.imgur.com/RwrqzKt.jpg[/t]
Thats after cleaning and quick coat of primer.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/Vg0e6fz.jpg[/t]
Sprayed til dripping with primer, let it dry, hammered shut, sprayed til dripping again, dry again, sprayed it till dripping with bedliner.
I'm a very forgiving guy, but I will never forgive the kid that rear ended me.
5 years later and I am still fixing damage from it.
FordLord, add me on steam. I just bought Euro Truck 2. maybe we can play some time.
Installed a new head unit in my buddy's Merc C124, the old head unit was connected with these "sugar cubes" and butt connectors, I took some ISO connectors I had lying around and wired it in properly. Antenna didn't go up though, but meh, we've got boring as shit stations anyways. Made $7.5 for 10 minutes work too.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;46589732]FordLord, add me on steam. I just bought Euro Truck 2. maybe we can play some time.[/QUOTE]
Totally car related: Does anyone else play Civ 5? I played beyond earth and I hate it. But I could really go for a round of civ5 on steam with anybody.
My screen name is... Serj22 or Serj222. I don't remember which.
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