• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
You get about FM quality, like a strong FM signal.. so it's not superb.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46631432]heard wired fm gives shit quality though, is that true?[/QUOTE] Yes. Don't do that. Buy 2 [url=http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417782693&sr=1-2&keywords=line+level]line level converters[/url] and use them to tap into your rear speakers for signal. Also, never buy from Crutchfield unless you absolutely have to, they overprice everything. I go there for reviews and specs before shopping around and finding better prices. As for the amp, all you need is a little 4 channel amplifier - with the age of the speakers in your Z, I wouldn't recommend driving them very hard. Were I you I'd replace the speakers entirely before installing an amp.
Speakers will be replaced in time. Just didnt want to go through the mess of running new wiring etc. Interior is already taking up a lot of my time right now and the rear where all the speakers are located is in the best shape so I really don't want to go messing around too much with that. Luckily all my engine needs right now is an exterior cleaning and some new hoses for the heater and breathers. [editline]5th December 2014[/editline] So wire in those converters, then a switcher for the audio then go to the amp and in the switcher have aux input and stereo?
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46646632]Speakers will be replaced in time. Just didnt want to go through the mess of running new wiring etc. Interior is already taking up a lot of my time right now and the rear where all the speakers are located is in the best shape so I really don't want to go messing around too much with that. Luckily all my engine needs right now is an exterior cleaning and some new hoses for the heater and breathers. [editline]5th December 2014[/editline] So wire in those converters, then a switcher for the audio then go to the amp and in the switcher have aux input and stereo?[/QUOTE] Yep, basically! To keep it simple if you want to run that switched setup I'd just run one converter, that way you're working with a 2 channel signal, same as with an aux cable. Don't mess with fade, just adjust gains on the amp accordingly.. who uses fade anywho.
This last week I've been helping a buddy strip down his 68k mile Civic hatch that he totaled so he can part it out and swap the motor into a sedan he picked up for $500 with a rod knock. Power tools <3 [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-11-28%2009.48.42.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-04%2012.59.39.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-04%2012.59.15.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-04%2012.09.11.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-04%2012.09.22.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-04%2012.59.21.jpg[/t] We're gonna get the motor out of the sedan tomorrow and maybe one back in it.
I'm sure the neighbors love seeing that on the street. Then again, it's Oregun, anything goes.
I uh, replaced the driver's door jamb switch in my Cavalier today. It was a very strenuous job, involving a lengthy [I]four minutes[/I] of prying back trim to push the connector back through the hole in the door frame. Minor fix, but it was bugging me for a while. The switch would stick closed, so the dome light wouldn't come on and the stereo would stay running. So I'd have to pry the switch open every time. Throwing grease on it would fix it for a few days, though I figure if the original switch lasted 10 years, I wouldn't feel bad spending $20 to replace it. Now that I think about it, the passenger door never triggered the dome light. It does have a switch, so I wonder if it's just a silly feature that only the drivers switch controls the light.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46650987]Yep, basically! To keep it simple if you want to run that switched setup I'd just run one converter, that way you're working with a 2 channel signal, same as with an aux cable. Don't mess with fade, just adjust gains on the amp accordingly.. who uses fade anywho.[/QUOTE] It's only got 2 channel sound anyways, it's a datsun lol.
Did some stuff, changed the fuel pump on TTD friends dads Ram. He had the bed lift with help from his tow truck boom. Comes in handy for shit like that. Then went to another friends house and changed the output shaft seal on his transmission. It's been leaking since the engine swap, I think we boogered it a bit somehow putting it back together. That or it's was just old.
that feel when you accidentally your friend's headunit on an aux install. [editline]7th December 2014[/editline] need mazda 3 owner halp
[t]http://i.imgur.com/hSRTouA.jpg[/t] Sick of inhaling carbon monoxide so I decided to tackle my exhaust leak today. Leaked primarily right before the catalytic converter. The gasket I used was a generic Felpro cardboard/metal one and it failed right away. I took apart the whole exhaust track from before that and cleaned all the mating surfaces. Turns out, manifold had one stud loose and that was also leaking. Started putting it all back together with new seals and OEM metal cat gasket. A true mechanic can do repairs and have the work possible to be torn down apart if needed to without any damage.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46656866][t]http://i.imgur.com/hSRTouA.jpg[/t] Sick of inhaling carbon monoxide so I decided to tackle my exhaust leak today. Leaked primarily right before the catalytic converter. The gasket I used was a generic Felpro cardboard/metal one and it failed right away. I took apart the whole exhaust track from before that and cleaned all the mating surfaces. Turns out, manifold had one stud loose and that was also leaking. Started putting it all back together with new seals and OEM metal cat gasket. A true mechanic can do repairs and have the work possible to be torn down apart if needed to without any damage.[/QUOTE] My dads old Chevy van was nothing short of a full choke fest, all it had was a mid mounted muffler that was blown apart and nothing after it. With leaky rear door seals and the fact that just outside the doors doing highway speeds causes negative pressure, it'd just suck all the exhaust into the van if the windows were open. It was worse if they were just cracked. Also don't forget, a real mechanic can make his/her tools when needed in a crunch. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/y14Wa2l.jpg[/thumb]
A real mechanic doesn't live in the Matrix.
I drilled a giant hole in the side of my carburetor today because turboslant. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20141206_183046_zpsa1f99285.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20141206_183046_zpsa1f99285.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20141206_183647_zps0832644b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20141206_183647_zps0832644b.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20141206_215446_1_zpsdbc43b7c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20141206_215446_1_zpsdbc43b7c.jpg[/IMG][/URL] BRPV baby.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;46651270]I'm sure the neighbors love seeing that on the street. Then again, it's Oregun, anything goes.[/QUOTE] Oregon's just a bunch of nosy ass Californians who moved up here because Cali sucks lol. Someone already called it to be tagged and it wasn't even there 24 hours. There's a bunch of other non-op vehicles on the same damn street that haven't moved for up to 10 years that are parked on blind corners... Luckily it's county and not city so since it's nearly impossible to get something tagged in county jurisdiction nothing will happen. Anyways, got the other motor in. Hopefully today we'll get it all sorted out and ready to run or running!
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46660112]Oregon's just a bunch of nosy ass Californians who moved up here because Cali sucks lol. Someone already called it to be tagged and it wasn't even there 24 hours. There's a bunch of other non-op vehicles on the same damn street that haven't moved for up to 10 years that are parked on blind corners... Luckily it's county and not city so since it's nearly impossible to get something tagged in county jurisdiction nothing will happen. Anyways, got the other motor in. Hopefully today we'll get it all sorted out and ready to run or running![/QUOTE] I guess it really depends where you are in Oregon. You live in suburbia, things are going to seem like California only with more rain and green scenery. You live in like Klamath Falls or Detroit, you are in another universe.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46656429]that feel when you accidentally your friend's headunit on an aux install. [editline]7th December 2014[/editline] need mazda 3 owner halp[/QUOTE] wot wot??
his car had a really bad alarm install that meant radio wasn't turning off correctly. I think we just triggered the anti theft but idk how to tell on Mazda 3s and the documentation is hazy at best.
Like now the car won't crank? Or won't start?
No the headunit fried
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-08%2013.34.15.jpg[/t] Got the Civic done today, my buddy now has a running car again. Drives straight, brakes work good, ball joints and bushings all look not failed. Pretty sure I toasted the clutch master with a fresh slave cylinder, felt a funny pop while bleeding it and now it squeaks pretty bad. Sadly the motor doesn't have a crank pulley with a power steering part on it so for now the power steering doesn't have a belt on it. I don't think the A/C works either sadly even though we spent hours working around it. Has a few exhaust rattles too we'll have to figure out. The tierods look pretty wrecked so he'll be ordering new inners, outers and boots tomorrow. Should be a nice solid DD, definitely worth the $500 and after he gets more of it sold he might even be able to even out the cost of totaling his hatch.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46658077]My dads old Chevy van was nothing short of a full choke fest, all it had was a mid mounted muffler that was blown apart and nothing after it. With leaky rear door seals and the fact that just outside the doors doing highway speeds causes negative pressure, it'd just suck all the exhaust into the van if the windows were open. It was worse if they were just cracked.[/QUOTE] So much better now without any exhaust leaks. Metal OE gasket ftw. Instead of a fart hissing like before the deep tone/rumble is back.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46674070]So much better now without any exhaust leaks. Metal OE gasket ftw. Instead of a fart hissing like before the deep tone/rumble is back.[/QUOTE] It astounds me companies even sell those shit paper ones for Hondas, the OEM gasket at the head never really goes bad and all you have to do is clean it up and torque the header down in a relatively crisscross pattern. No one makes the proper ring to go inside the 4 to 1 piece of the exhaust mani for my civic, I have had to tighten it 4 times and it just keeps coming loose from destroying the gasket. I've given up and just dealt with the minor exhaust leak.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46673180] Got the Civic done today, my buddy now has a running car again. Drives straight, brakes work good, ball joints and bushings all look not failed. Pretty sure I toasted the clutch master with a fresh slave cylinder, felt a funny pop while bleeding it and now it squeaks pretty bad. Sadly the motor doesn't have a crank pulley with a power steering part on it so for now the power steering doesn't have a belt on it. I don't think the A/C works either sadly even though we spent hours working around it. Has a few exhaust rattles too we'll have to figure out. The tierods look pretty wrecked so he'll be ordering new inners, outers and boots tomorrow. Should be a nice solid DD, definitely worth the $500 and after he gets more of it sold he might even be able to even out the cost of totaling his hatch.[/QUOTE] You sure the A/C system is charged?
I took a screwdriver to the highside to check if it's pressurized, it was. It's not really a huge concern, we'll probably just have to replace all the o-rings and recharge it someday. Was just a little disappointing. [editline]9th December 2014[/editline] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-09%2015.10.34.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-09%2015.11.11.jpg[/t] We might just loop the steering rack, the steering is lighter than my Civic anyways even when pushing through the P/S pump. Drives really smooth and runs awesome, interior was dirty as hell but it cleaned up fairly nice and we carpet fresh bombed it to remove the rank smell. Toss a hood bra over the hood, give it a wash and it should look nice too.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46679817]I took a screwdriver to the highside to check if it's pressurized, it was. It's not really a huge concern, we'll probably just have to replace all the o-rings and recharge it someday. Was just a little disappointing. [editline]9th December 2014[/editline] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-09%2015.10.34.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/2014-12-09%2015.11.11.jpg[/t] We might just loop the steering rack, the steering is lighter than my Civic anyways even when pushing through the P/S pump. Drives really smooth and runs awesome, interior was dirty as hell but it cleaned up fairly nice and we carpet fresh bombed it to remove the rank smell. Toss a hood bra over the hood, give it a wash and it should look nice too.[/QUOTE] That A/C job isn't too bad, if you need some advice, let me know. I rebuilt my whole system aside from the evaporator.
Another civic back in action, I love it.
Starting to finally put together the L28 after getting the machine work done in June. Cleaned out the bores of honing stone grit, and painted it GM Blue. No one stocks Nissan/Datsun blue I proabably could get it made up, or order it online. Shitty pictures: [img]http://i.imgur.com/RgiLWpMl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/PoQleAgl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/bZyhQ5Nl.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Slithers;46680802]That A/C job isn't too bad, if you need some advice, let me know. I rebuilt my whole system aside from the evaporator.[/QUOTE] Yeah I'll be sure to, I understand the system for the most part but I don't understand how to properly charge it to spec with the proper amount of oil and weight of refrigerant since stores I've been to only stock the shitty aerosol A/C "fix" cans.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46686588]Yeah I'll be sure to, I understand the system for the most part but I don't understand how to properly charge it to spec with the proper amount of oil and weight of refrigerant since stores I've been to only stock the shitty aerosol A/C "fix" cans.[/QUOTE] I would try and find a friend who works in a shop to recharge it. The problem is that those shitty aerosol cans cannot put the system under the vacuum required to check your work and get rid of any moisture and air that could destroy the refrig oil. When you open the lines up, be sure to replace the drier, and it is best to do it while it's not humid. The automotive repair industry has a basic rate of $119 per vac and charge so that's what you'll pay when you take it to the shop to have new freon added. Those shitty aerosol cans won't do the trick, and buying your own vac and charge station and enough refrig to run that will cost you more than it cost you to buy the car.
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