• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Slithers;46686825]I would try and find a friend who works in a shop to recharge it. The problem is that those shitty aerosol cans cannot put the system under the vacuum required to check your work and get rid of any moisture and air that could destroy the refrig oil. When you open the lines up, be sure to replace the drier, and it is best to do it while it's not humid. The automotive repair industry has a basic rate of $119 per vac and charge so that's what you'll pay when you take it to the shop to have new freon added. Those shitty aerosol cans won't do the trick, and buying your own vac and charge station and enough refrig to run that will cost you more than it cost you to buy the car.[/QUOTE] If you get one of those industrial vac and recharge systems, then yes, it'll cost more then the car. But there is another cheaper way. VacPump, autozone rents these out. You get your money back when you're done with it. [thumb]http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ste/MT1401/image/3/[/thumb] They also rent the manifold. [thumb]http://is.gd/30TJLI[/thumb] The price gets steep, but you get majority of it back when you return these two items. Some google searching on methods and freon levels will shine some light on the situation and help to keep you from damaging anything. It's easy too, Connect pump to manifold yellow line. Connect red manifold line to high side and blue to low side. Open all valves on manifold and hose ends (blue and red, yellow has none) Run vacuum pump for 30 mins or until gauge is zeroed out. Close all valves and leave on AC lines to keep vacuum. Turn off pump. (schrader valves on the connections only keep freon in, taking the connectors off will let it suck air into the system so don't remove them yet) With a can of AC charge of your choice, quickly remove the low side connector and connect the charge can to the low side, with the car/truck/whatever running and AC on full blast, start charging by holding button and tilting the can every 4 or 5 seconds. Not doing this only puts gas into the system, and not the good liquid bits you for everything to work. Fill system until AC clutch stops cycling, making sure the cans built-on gauge does NOT go past the green while the clutch is engaged. (it WILL when the pump is NOT running, this is normal because it's the low side your charging from here.) Quick write up on how to do A/C yourself if you didn't already know. Basic shit, so don't think this is law, theres probably some shit I missed.
imagine having AC [editline]11th December 2014[/editline] Imagine getting car parts at the library [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2014-12-10%2021.38.41.jpg[/t] </3 unilug
Drank beer and removed a sway bar from my friends Jeep.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;46689237]Drank beer and removed a sway bar from my friends Jeep.[/QUOTE] How do I rate funny win? [editline]11th December 2014[/editline] [img]http://i.imgur.com/TS4zaZj.png[/img]
I've been working on a '91 Mercury Colony Park LS 5.0L with 91k miles on it with some other students. It was sitting in a driveway or a field most of its life and was used as a dumpster (the interior is seriously nasty). Got it running a few weeks ago, then it was dumping ATF into the radiator so we re-routed the lines to a cooler because the radiator lines were rusted open, the coolant smelled like dead fish and the radiator was clogged so we flushed that. Now we're tackling the brakes because it "had none" and boy, was he right. One caliper was seized, there was no fluid in the booster and the E-brake doesn't work. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21270004/Pic%27s%20%28clean%29/Cars/DSC_0053.jpg[/t]
Go to check my conrod bearing clearences, turns out I have conrod bearing set for a 4 cylinder L Series engine.
[t]http://oi61.tinypic.com/34s30cw.jpg[/t] It's almost business time.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46686825]I would try and find a friend who works in a shop to recharge it. The problem is that those shitty aerosol cans cannot put the system under the vacuum required to check your work and get rid of any moisture and air that could destroy the refrig oil. When you open the lines up, be sure to replace the drier, and it is best to do it while it's not humid. The automotive repair industry has a basic rate of $119 per vac and charge so that's what you'll pay when you take it to the shop to have new freon added. Those shitty aerosol cans won't do the trick, and buying your own vac and charge station and enough refrig to run that will cost you more than it cost you to buy the car.[/QUOTE] I know someone who would but he doesn't cut anyone deals anymore because he couldn't make money. Standard rate for a vac/recharge around here is well over 200 with many places charging 300. Good to know because I was pretty sure those cans were garbage, I've heard some decent things about the Harbor Freight manifold though. [editline]11th December 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Dylan_94;46694659][t]http://oi61.tinypic.com/34s30cw.jpg[/t] It's almost business time.[/QUOTE] I'm fairly happy with my 11lbs flywheel but given the chance I would trade it for a 14lbs ITR, I feel it's a touch light but if you don't have other slightly heavier options its crazy better than stock. Should be awesome with a full disk clutch.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46695371]I know someone who would but he doesn't cut anyone deals anymore because he couldn't make money. Standard rate for a vac/recharge around here is well over 200 with many places charging 300. Good to know because I was pretty sure those cans were garbage, I've heard some decent things about the Harbor Freight manifold though.[/QUOTE] 300 bucks for a vac/charge? wat.... I feel sorry for you
I almost want to try fixing my AC... Though there was a total of four days where it [I]sucked[/I], two of them were during a five hour drive with my two brothers. Pretty much every day at work, I'd crank the front two windows down and in less than a kilometer the car was cooled off to comfortable temperatures. Yay Northern Ontario.
The biggest use I get out of my AC is defogging my windows, especially now in the winter.
I like driving with windows open in the summer, unless it goes to ~30c temperatures, then I'll use AC
[QUOTE=Del91;46696544]The biggest use I get out of my AC is defogging my windows, especially now in the winter.[/QUOTE] Defog in the winter and blast hot outside air in my face in the summer.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;46694659][t]http://oi61.tinypic.com/34s30cw.jpg[/t] It's almost business time.[/QUOTE] Oooooh, get ready. Those clutches are fucking HEAVEN! I haven't even had mine for 5,000 miles and I LOVE it....
[QUOTE=Slithers;46695589]300 bucks for a vac/charge? wat.... I feel sorry for you[/QUOTE] Shops around here are not worth going to, too many people own too shit of vehicles and abuse them horribly. Everywhere generally charges 100/hr for labor at least with nicer/specialty shops 130-150. This isn't California where everyone makes 15-20 an hour or anything like that either, many people consider you to be rich as hell if you make 15-20 an hour. Used car prices are generally 1000-2000 higher than in Portland, Seattle or California. I'm saying 1500 cars going for 2250-2500 and 4000 cars going for 5500 too.. From what I can tell this trend seems to show up early around here where you literally can't buy a decent running car for less than 1000 almost period for 5 years now and has been expanding everywhere else. Everything is going up in price automotive related, I'd expect to see similar everywhere else as most trends seem to show here earlier from what I've seen.
newer cars are getting more expensive and older cars are getting harder to get parts for. Let's make a shitload of waste creating new eco friendly cars instead of upgrading older ones.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46701438]Shops around here are not worth going to, too many people own too shit of vehicles and abuse them horribly. Everywhere generally charges 100/hr for labor at least with nicer/specialty shops 130-150. This isn't California where everyone makes 15-20 an hour or anything like that either, many people consider you to be rich as hell if you make 15-20 an hour. Used car prices are generally 1000-2000 higher than in Portland, Seattle or California. I'm saying 1500 cars going for 2250-2500 and 4000 cars going for 5500 too.. From what I can tell this trend seems to show up early around here where you literally can't buy a decent running car for less than 1000 almost period for 5 years now and has been expanding everywhere else. Everything is going up in price automotive related, I'd expect to see similar everywhere else as most trends seem to show here earlier from what I've seen.[/QUOTE] It's getting harder and harder to find a LeMons candidate....
Cars for Clunkers. [editline]12th December 2014[/editline] *Johnny Cash for Clunks. my bad [editline]12th December 2014[/editline] **Clunkers for my bad mustache
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46695371]I know someone who would but he doesn't cut anyone deals anymore because he couldn't make money. Standard rate for a vac/recharge around here is well over 200 with many places charging 300. Good to know because I was pretty sure those cans were garbage, I've heard some decent things about the Harbor Freight manifold though. [editline]11th December 2014[/editline] I'm fairly happy with my 11lbs flywheel but given the chance I would trade it for a 14lbs ITR, I feel it's a touch light but if you don't have other slightly heavier options its crazy better than stock. Should be awesome with a full disk clutch.[/QUOTE] on my tacoma 4x4 i took the stock 23lbs flywheel and added a 11lb fidenza flywheel with a stage 4 clutch. had to learn to drive that truck all over again .
[QUOTE=thattaco;46704783]on my tacoma 4x4 i took the stock 23lbs flywheel and added a 11lb fidenza flywheel with a stage 4 clutch. had to learn to drive that truck all over again .[/QUOTE] There's a lot more weight to the truck though, these are little cars. I would have probably kept the 23lbs flywheel as that's close to what Honda puts on cars like half the weight. I know mine is terrible with the A/C on and 4 people in it with a 11.4lb flywheel.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46704867]There's a lot more weight to the truck though, these are little cars. I would have probably kept the 23lbs flywheel as that's close to what Honda puts on cars like half the weight. I know mine is terrible with the A/C on and 4 people in it with a 11.4lb flywheel.[/QUOTE] 3150lbs with me and 1/4 tank of fuel. was a two seater. 176whp after all the mods. 135 whp before. was easy as hell to stall but put 100k miles on it with that flywheel. didnt notice it after that, loved how fast it reved with the flywheel and cams. i like it better with the light one. for some odd reason. well, second redlined at 65mph 5750rpm, 3rd was 99mph redline. witht he stock it felt like there was a dip in power from 65-75mph in third. it didnt have the same dip with the light flywheel.
Fixed my first thing on the miata today! My clutch was clicking like an old school button whenever I engaged it, and it was driving me nuts, so I climbed under there and found that the bumper for the starter interlock switch was missing and was causing the button for the switch to go through the hole in the clutch petal where the bumper would be held. I covered the hole with a bit of duct tape an the click was gone :) I also hung some hanging wiring back up inside the dash. I'm going to buy some bbs rims tomorrow morning and after I get those on and balanced, I'm going to fix the play in the clutch petal.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;46694659][t]http://oi61.tinypic.com/34s30cw.jpg[/t] It's almost business time.[/QUOTE] Love Exedy/Daikin Clutch clutches. Use it on my daily just fine [QUOTE=notlabbet;46709164]Fixed my first thing on the miata today! My clutch was clicking like an old school button whenever I engaged it, and it was driving me nuts, so I climbed under there and found that the bumper for the starter interlock switch was missing and was causing the button for the switch to go through the hole in the clutch petal where the bumper would be held. I covered the hole with a bit of duct tape an the click was gone :) I also hung some hanging wiring back up inside the dash. I'm going to buy some bbs rims tomorrow morning and after I get those on and balanced, I'm going to fix the play in the clutch petal.[/QUOTE] We have those too for Nissans. Most people just put a flat bolt and nut there
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46709207]Love Exedy/Daikin Clutch clutches. Use it on my daily just fine We have those too for Nissans. Most people just put a flat bolt and nut there[/QUOTE] Duct tape is a temporary fix, I'm gonna steal the missing bumper out of my friend's parts car if I can.
Changed the dome fuse even though I thought I had already. Now have radio memory and interior lights.
My friend had a baby and had to ditch the sub in his trailblazer because of hauling around kid things.. wanted to get him his bass back for Christmas, so I borrowed an employee's trailblazer and built a cargo hole sub box. Goes under the carpet in the back and fits down into the little tub. Gonna probably have him snag a Kicker CompRT, bought him a Kicker300.1 for it, too. Nice small footprint amp. This pic's for Kolpack because I know he loves my winter woodshop [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234043/12-15005_zps10c86278.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234043/12-15005_zps10c86278.jpg[/img][/url] Ready to be gifted away [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234043/12-15008_zps65fce6d3.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234043/12-15008_zps65fce6d3.jpg[/img][/url] Here's a new Type R 10 that someone managed to meltdown [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234043/12-15009_zps9c44aa49.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234043/12-15009_zps9c44aa49.jpg[/img][/url] Note the former damage consistent with bottoming out a sub And this is consistent with not caring about your battery's appearance [url=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234043/12-15006_zpsb77c3290.jpg.html][img]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234043/12-15006_zpsb77c3290.jpg[/img][/url] This battery has been married for 5 years and stopped trying. Here's a cruisin shot of my fiberoptic headliner, too [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234043/12-15001_zpsa29c8c3c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234043/12-15001_zpsa29c8c3c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Took the Q45 tachometer out of the Q45 cluster and swapped it into my s13 cluster along with the needles. It looks the same but the internals are swapped making it work accurately since the q45 originally had this engine. my v8 now has a tach, which helped me figure out that the problem is 99% probably a vacuum leak since the rpms are jumping. didnt have time to go any further with it yet. [t]http://i.imgur.com/vu5gfsJ.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/cZW8dTp.jpg[/t]
Front brake day on the EF. Got the cheapest rotors on Rockauto for $9 a pop which are insanely nicer than Durashit blanks and a nice set of $11 Centric ceramic pads along with a new set of guide boots for like $12. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-12-17%2015.56.57.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-12-17%2015.57.17.jpg[/t] Still got to bleed out the horrendously contaminated fluid all around though.
That rotor kind of looks like its made out of plastic in the pics imo :v: But hey for 9 bucks you really can't go wrong!
WTF 20 dollar brake change? I didn't even think that was possible. I'm wanting to get the Wilwood 4 pot front BBK for my civic, it's like $600. I sorta plan right now getting Progress coilovers and the wilwood BBK, and try and get a rear disc conversion. That coupled with my new Transmission, clutch, and flywheel, Then I feel like the chassis will be ready for more power. Also, i got my $120 crane put together. [img]http://i58.tinypic.com/14m9h04.jpg[/img] [editline]17th December 2014[/editline] You'll just have to tilt your head, i don't feel like fixing it.
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