[QUOTE=Dylan_94;46739596]WTF 20 dollar brake change? I didn't even think that was possible. I'm wanting to get the Wilwood 4 pot front BBK for my civic, it's like $600. I sorta plan right now getting Progress coilovers and the wilwood BBK, and try and get a rear disc conversion. That coupled with my new Transmission, clutch, and flywheel, Then I feel like the chassis will be ready for more power.
[/QUOTE]
Welll, it was like $35 due to the set of new pin boots being spendy. Calipers are $30-35 each still and this only covers front brakes. Rockauto is the shit, Centric Ceramic fronts are $15 for my Integra and front rotors are $15 with rears being $10 and $10. Rear calipers are the spendy little shits, I've had a miserable time with those as well.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;46739491]That rotor kind of looks like its made out of plastic in the pics imo :v:
But hey for 9 bucks you really can't go wrong![/QUOTE]
It was actually sprayed silver entirely, it should really help with corrosion on the hat and in the ventilated part. They are "Ultra Rotor" brand, came packaged pretty nice and came with a bunch of documentation on how to do brakes properly. I did find something else when I went to bleed the brakes..
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-12-17%2018.54.21.jpg[/t]
Welp, looks like the OEM untouched drums are done after 165k and 25 years.. Looks like time to order a set of middle end $8 brake shoes and 2 new wheel cylinders for $5 each! I'll just sand down the insides of the drums because they are heavy and $12 each, should make it easier to install too.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46738280]Front brake day on the EF. Got the cheapest rotors on Rockauto for $9 a pop which are insanely nicer than Durashit blanks and a nice set of $11 Centric ceramic pads along with a new set of guide boots for like $12.
Still got to bleed out the horrendously contaminated fluid all around though.[/QUOTE]
Never had a problem with Autozone rotors; use em on the rears of my S13. The defining factor is brake pads and brake fluid.
I'm going to do track day soon so I will go steel braided brake hoses, Endless racing brake fluid and if I'm lucky, Hawk brake pads.
I'm gonna have to bleed the brakes again too, they feel pretty mushy and I don't like it. I may just leave it this way til I get the drum stuff as I'll have to do it again..
Brakes are a bitch, I'd rather do a timing belt or something.. This was the easiest I've got with brakes so far but it still didn't go smoothly with having to remove the shims to get them to fit on the rotors and a total learning curve on how the silly swing open calipers and boots go together instead of the floating double pin Integra style.
[editline]17th December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46740166]Never had a problem with Autozone rotors; use em on the rears of my S13. The defining factor is brake pads and brake fluid.
I'm going to do track day soon so I will go steel braided brake hoses, Endless racing brake fluid and if I'm lucky, Hawk brake pads.[/QUOTE]
Tell that to my front durashit rotors that warped in less than 10k miles on my Integra as well as the two defective rear durashit calipers that have busted on me. I have DOT4, Hawks and stainless brakelines on that car too lol. Rears won't warp but fronts will warp on the first stop from 100.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46740167]I'm gonna have to bleed the brakes again too, they feel pretty mushy and I don't like it. I may just leave it this way til I get the drum stuff as I'll have to do it again..
Brakes are a bitch, I'd rather do a timing belt or something.. This was the easiest I've got with brakes so far but it still didn't go smoothly with having to remove the shims to get them to fit on the rotors and a total learning curve on how the silly swing open calipers and boots go together instead of the floating double pin Integra style.
[editline]17th December 2014[/editline]
Tell that to my front durashit rotors that warped in less than 10k miles on my Integra as well as the two defective rear durashit calipers that have busted on me. I have DOT4, Hawks and stainless brakelines on that car too lol. Rears won't warp but fronts will warp on the first stop from 100.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, Hawk pads do heat up pretty intensely I suppose. I use Wagner Ceramic for daily driving so it's soft on the rotors. Try changing the brake fluid to something nice and bleed it right. Do each side in sequence, etc. I was surprised how big a difference brake fluid made in changing the pedal feel and actuation. I use Valvoline 311F DOT4 for daily. Like I said, might change to Brembo or Endless sometimes early next year
Oh I've seen them light up, smoke and burn when I was breaking them in. Yeah those shouldn't be too bad but they still have the ability to heat up just as much if you cook them. Well what's primarily through it is Autozone brand DOT3, I did it rr-lr-rf-lf. I think I'll bleed them lf-rf-lr-rr-lr-rf-lf because there was chunks coming out when I did the last caliper before it went clear. The Honda world had a ATE Blue fetish before the blue was discontinued/banned.
I have a big jug of Supertech DOT3 now so I'll just bleed a ton of that through and see what happens tomorrow lol.
Had a really sad day yesterday, My Teg either kicked a rod or my timing belt slipped. The engine is done.
TIME TO REBUILD!
May have found out what's causing the Slaab's energy leak after a bout of anger and frustration due into the battery being dead this morning. The insulation on the cars shitty ground points are gone. I'm either going to re insulate them or redo them all in a more modern rubberized way.
Roomate's ZX2 popped a brake line. It's 20*F and 9pm currently, just got home from the VatoZone and I've got parts and a stupid idea that I'm gonna get it fixed in the dark. Let's find out.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/klzt21w.jpg[/t]
Got these tie rods for a deal today. Way beefier than OE and provides length that would otherwise not be there when you lower a car.
Installed coil spacers on my friends XJ.
The pin that holds the two halves of the spring compressor together fell out but it happened the second the spring was seated and there was no tension on the tool anymore.
I also held onto my friends d-ring while he put his XJ up on the lift and hung from it.
Fun night.
I used a mini sledgehammer and bent my fender out of the way of the wheel (it rubbed a couple times yesterday while driving aggressively. (It worked)
I also switched to the security bolts on one wheel. I need a torque wrench.
Harbor Freight $9 special torque wrenches are literally as accurate as a Snap-on unit when new, as long as you unwind them when not in use they will stay very accurate. Another upside is whenever you need to do torque sensitive work you can just buy a new one to be 100% sure it's accurate instead of just leaving it to chance that your tool is still in calibration. Then you can just abuse old ones on lugnuts, ect.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46753957]Dayumn, leaking brake cylinder or axle seals??[/QUOTE]
Leaky break cylinder.
I was wondering why my break fluid kept disappearing.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;46753527][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0182.jpg[/t]
mmmmm drum brakes.[/QUOTE]
Drum brakes just need to go the way of the dodo, most pain in the ass invention for vehicles EVER.
Did the drums for a couple friends, one was a 99' elantra and the other a 97 f150 4x4.
Both share consistently, the ghost brake pedal fade. Where after a few hundred miles your pedal just sinks half way when trying to stop and ALL because the adjustment bit doesn't do it's job right anymore.
THEN, theres getting the drums off, which most people don't know/care or elect to forgo replacing pretty much ever lest they be ground to metal on metal, with a ridge like a caveman brow, prying them off with Gordon Freemans favorite tool is the only way to go.
[i]"Give me disk brakes, or give me death."[/i]
I got to work with my good friend amonium hydroxate today again. Boy did my eyes hurt. I can't find those full face masks anymore at any hardware store. This is a key step before staining.
Shamelessly taken from my instagram page. I worked on the Jolten Joe today instead of normal work. Just trying to get it done for the city, and they want to open a big gallery with the boat and a bunch of Joe Dimaggio artifacts I guess.
[IMG_THUMB]http://photos-e.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t51.2885-15/10843941_1519208415006340_738609727_n.jpg[/IMG_THUMB]
Once this is all done i get to put the inline 6 cylinder Chrysler back in it. YAY. 100hp of goodness.
Whats yer instagram?
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46748122]Harbor Freight $9 special torque wrenches are literally as accurate as a Snap-on unit when new, as long as you unwind them when not in use they will stay very accurate. Another upside is whenever you need to do torque sensitive work you can just buy a new one to be 100% sure it's accurate instead of just leaving it to chance that your tool is still in calibration. Then you can just abuse old ones on lugnuts, ect.[/QUOTE]
Anyone wondering about this, here's a couple links to the same article that Hotrod/Carcraft did.
[url]http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/[/url]
[url]http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/129-1307-torquing-testing-torque-wrenches/[/url]
I personally can't justify spending what I would on a nice air compressor or an engine hoist on a wrench that will primarily be abused on wheels.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46754276]Drum brakes just need to go the way of the dodo, most pain in the ass invention for vehicles EVER.
Did the drums for a couple friends, one was a 99' elantra and the other a 97 f150 4x4.
Both share consistently, the ghost brake pedal fade. Where after a few hundred miles your pedal just sinks half way when trying to stop and ALL because the adjustment bit doesn't do it's job right anymore.
THEN, theres getting the drums off, which most people don't know/care or elect to forgo replacing pretty much ever lest they be ground to metal on metal, with a ridge like a caveman brow, prying them off with Gordon Freemans favorite tool is the only way to go.
[i]"Give me disk brakes, or give me death."[/i][/QUOTE]
Mine have never been touched and everything looked good other than the shoe being completely gone. I just had to smack it with a hammer a few times around it and pull it right off. Extremely worn out drums will make the pedal feel like ass right?
I feel like I have to stomp the brakes to make them do much while it didn't seem as bad when I had worn out fronts? I'm guessing a ton of pressure is going to the rear instead of the fronts or something? I'm just gonna hold off on bleeding the brakes til I get my new shoes and wheel cylinders.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46754406]Whats yer instagram?[/QUOTE]
davidwc22
I already instastalk a few people on here. Get with the times and add serj.
Even though you are ultimate enemy.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46754699]Anyone wondering about this, here's a couple links to the same article that Hotrod/Carcraft did.
[url]http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/[/url]
[url]http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/129-1307-torquing-testing-torque-wrenches/[/url][/QUOTE]
Interesting
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46754699]Mine have never been touched and everything looked good other than the shoe being completely gone. I just had to smack it with a hammer a few times around it and pull it right off. Extremely worn out drums will make the pedal feel like ass right?
[B]I feel like I have to stomp the brakes to make them do much[/B] while it didn't seem as bad when I had worn out fronts? [I]I'm guessing a ton of pressure is going to the rear instead of the fronts[/I] or something? I'm just gonna hold off on bleeding the brakes til I get my new shoes and wheel cylinders.[/QUOTE]
That. Right there, is the ghost fade. No amount of bleeding them is going to help because the adjustment bit is screwed in too far. Your right on the pressure part, because there is SOOOO much travel for the shoes, almost all the fluid goes to the rear, making it hard for the system to function correctly.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2014-12-20%2014.03.18.jpg[/t]
cracks be gone
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46758052][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2014-12-20%2014.03.18.jpg[/t]
cracks be gone[/QUOTE]
Are you doing the vinyl and contact cement method?
Drove the ol' truk 80 miles to a mechanic that will work on the trans without ripping me a new asshole.
Hopefully I will get it back and I will have 3rd and 4th gear!
Only reason I'm not getting ripped a new asshole is because it has a manual valve body on it and he is putting a regular ol' one that should be in it back into it. So he's taking my go fast parts away from me so I can afford him to go into the tranny and fix the clutch packs. Not like I was gonna drag race the truck anyway.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46759220]Are you doing the vinyl and contact cement method?[/QUOTE]
Texture coat method for now. No vacuum machine or a shop that does that around here. Datsun farts swear by it though
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46760740]Texture coat method for now. No vacuum machine or a shop that does that around here. Datsun farts swear by it though[/QUOTE]
If you take vinyl and some real oil based contact cement, and you have hours on hand to wrap it - it can be done by hand.
How's the texture coming out?
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;46758052][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2014-12-20%2014.03.18.jpg[/t]
cracks be gone[/QUOTE]
Can you describe or link me to the process, my nissan dash is also cracked and ive been thinking of fixing it.
well well. Those brake lines were a real shit show. Night 1 I finished them up after about 5 breaks because I kept getting too cold. But no one was around to help me bleed them. :(
night two I got some help and bled all 4 corners and got the pedal nice and hard. Oh yea. But I also discovered a horrible tierod end on the passenger wheel. Like, we're talking it was so bad I pulled on it and that was the end, it popped apart. It's a good thing those brake lines did burst, otherwise I never would've found that bad tierod before it broke and caused and accident or something.
So finally yesterday after work I bought a new tierod, slapped it on, and the ZX2 is back on the road. What next!
Me and my friend picked up a 1uz (toyota v8) swap for another friend of mine this morning, then I watched more drifting. My friend paid me in s13 parts lol.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ENq8TXz.jpg[/t]
then I did the bmw's first oil change in my possession, and started taking apart the q45. The intake manifold is also coming off the s13 now once I paint my spare intake. Putting a fireplace in the garage was a good decision.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OKhz9TG.jpg[/t]
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