[QUOTE=DPKiller;39755440]Its simple. Use body filler, and powder coat over it!
Its what I did to mine...[/QUOTE]
One of my friends who always bullshits a lot said cuts like that cannot be fixed, so I really thought that' and end for alloys.
Make sure they are round before all that
[IMG]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/yolotire.png[/IMG]
Its round dawg trust me.
My friend sold his 17" wheels sometime ago, 1 out of 4 had a large dent in it because of a rock, other ones were "fine"
Then the buyer called him few weeks later telling that 3 of 4 were oval
On topic of bent wheels, its painfully obvious when some one takes a alloy to some one to get it refinished, the machines they use cut deep tooth marks into the alloy at different spots that need the shit unbent.
I would know, Cheap CL deal was cheap.
[QUOTE=arleitiss;39755137]Please suggest how should I transform this car to just look good?
[URL]http://cs323523.userapi.com/v323523513/495f/-v1O-Crzg-s.jpg[/URL]
[URL]http://cs323523.userapi.com/v323523513/4968/qsCU39pGTzE.jpg[/URL]
My idea so far is:
Peel wraps off from mirrors and hood.
Get some service to have alloys sand blasted, then repaired, and resprayed into grey/silverish removing that shite red stripe.
Any other suggestions?
Btw - I didn't wrap it, nor I purchased those alloys.
They are CSL by the way, just shitty ones with red stripe.[/QUOTE]
I'm not feeling the hood wrap with the black grill, I've always preferred the chrome grills on BMW's. Black rims just don't work on that car either, I'd go for like a polished aluminum/silver color and get the BMW centercaps.
Other than that? It's a BMW, maybe find a nice OEM spoiler or something and leave it alone from there aesthetics wise.
Keep black hood, put chrome grills.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39752305]Buy some Permatex Black Silicone and shave off the old silicone on the taillights. Clean the crap out of them then seal with the new stuff.
That's also how you're supposed to do it. Saw off a quarter panel then weld it on.[/QUOTE]
I might leave it alone for now and try to just get the current condensation out. When my tail leaked earlier, it was right above the bulb and i think some leaked into the housing. I did fix the seal from the body to the light but didnt get the water out.
I wasnt sure how hard itd be to cut off one and weld it on mine. I talked to my friend that does body work, he thinks that with how the area i need to replace is shaped, i might be better off just buying a piece of sheet metal. Either way, im going to a junkyard soon to get a new bumper beam for the rear. Ill see about cutting the quarter panels off that car if its not too hard
Took the timing belt and timing covers off my B16A since the rear one was being eaten by the cam gears or something and they were beat up as hell. The rear upper cover goes behind the cam gears and since I took the belt off I wanted to put it to TDC so I don't bend valves, I took out the cams.
Got it all back together after 45 minutes of wrestling the cam caps back into place and trying to bolt something in wrong for a while.. I went to tighten down the last 10mm bolt on the intake cam AND IT FUCKING SHEERS THE FUCK OFF.
Fuck, all these cam bolts on the head have been abused to shit. I had to use a breaker bar a couple years ago to undo them. I don't even care, the cap has 3 bolts on it and all it does is help hold pressure on the cam seal which is original from 89' and probably leaks horribly. Next owner might be able to get it with pliers.
The "cheap" poor quality timing belt from autozone is also all deformed, rusting(wtf mang) and was stuck to the tensioner and left some of it's rubber on it.. I would never in my life gamble what I owned on one of these shit ass Duralast belts which has less than 10,000 revolutions on it and is only a year old.
I'm done with this motor. I'm painting the valve cover all up nice in wrinkle red, making the motor/tranny relatively spotless and selling it all.
In other and at least good news my type-r suspension, type-r lca's and some other good stuff as well as one of my motor mounts are arriving tomorrow. Rockauto is a day late and Fedex won't get here til monday with the other 4 though.
I bought some SS rims for $200 today (total steal) with tires and threw them on my camaro, looks a lot more sporty than the stock shitters, still need to buy bigger tires for the back though.
Before
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Camaro/8E0D0A0C-96F8-42E5-AB49-A96F9862E2F1-1756-000001D3CE334409_zps3d530e05.jpg[/thumb]
After
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Camaro/A01F7980-C937-47B5-AD54-3305A266EE01-5717-000006FA271BE765_zpsd4b462f5.jpg[/thumb]
Overall i dont think i could have gotten a better deal at $200 and they look great. The guy who owned them had a red camaro that he was driving in the canadian winter of all times, crazy bastard. He was pretty cool though, mid 20s, said he sold his civic and got the camaro for a good deal so hes ok in my books. The drive to him was hell though because it was prime traffic time.
[editline]1st March 2013[/editline]
My cat has discovered the wonderous thing that is the back seat of my camaro. Let her sit in it once and she loved it because its sort of dished down (sucks for people though) but being a pretty fluffy kitty she leaves a lot of hair around so she cant stay there. Every time I open the door to the car she bolts in and sits on the seat, today she even [b]put up a fight[/b] to sit in the back and i had to wrestle her out of there.
I dont think I would ever trust something as important as a timing belt to parts store shit. That is one of those OEM or nothing items. Hell, I am hating my duralast rotors, they are starting to warp and its only been 2 years, 1/2 a year i wasnt driving it, i was at basic training.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39759156]I dont think I would ever trust something as important as a timing belt to parts store shit. That is one of those OEM or nothing items. Hell, I am hating my duralast rotors, they are starting to warp and its only been 2 years, 1/2 a year i wasnt driving it, i was at basic training.[/QUOTE]
I'd never do it on anything I spent money on at all but when a potentially original honda timing belt(from 89', kinda doubt it though) which has been cracking almost everywhere, has stretched too far to be properly tensioned and was in the possession of the previous owner at least holds it's own shape, hasn't been deformed and rusting after sitting for a year then being ran for 2 minutes at less than 4,500 RPMs and pulled. Fucking thing is already cracking....
I don't know how people even manage to have motors still. I really would ebay it from cheap chinaland far before I'd ever buy it from a shit parts store ever again. The sad part is a timing belt kit from AcuraOEMParts costs maybe $150, Autozone charges like $95 or something and doesn't even come with a tensioner spring..
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-01-Acura-Integra-GSR-1-8L-DOHC-B18C1-B18C5-Timing-Belt-Kit-NPW-Water-Pump-/360461463040?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AIntegra&hash=item53ed2d6e00&vxp=mtr[/url]
$60 gets you a water pump, timing belt, tensioner, cam shaft seals and a front main seal which are really smart things to change too..
I really think crap part stores are going to go bust, Walmart carries whatever you want oil wise and the only time I go to a parts store is to pick up a filter or laugh at a $200 o2 sensor which I can get from the OEM manufacturer online for $40.
Amazon is one of the best places for parts imo
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39759156]I dont think I would ever trust something as important as a timing belt to parts store shit. That is one of those OEM or nothing items. Hell, I am hating my duralast rotors, they are starting to warp and its only been 2 years, 1/2 a year i wasnt driving it, i was at basic training.[/QUOTE]
On your tacoma?
[url]http://lcengineering.com/[/url]
The cross drilled slotted rotors worked great for the ~40k miles I had them on till it was bought back. But my oem had 250k on them when I replaced them just because. Never warped or were never turned.
Looking at getting one of those OBDII readers that connect to like a laptop. Anyone have one or used one to recommend?
Bought a new rear bumper beam, holy these are heavy. Gotta be 40lbs. Only cost $26.
Replaced the spark plug wires on my dad's Ranger. No more stutter or CEL.
Gettin' paid :dance:
[QUOTE=thattaco;39760711]On your tacoma?
[url]http://lcengineering.com/[/url]
The cross drilled slotted rotors worked great for the ~40k miles I had them on till it was bought back. But my oem had 250k on them when I replaced them just because. Never warped or were never turned.[/QUOTE]
My rear drums are havent been changed and are still good where as I'm about to say fuck these cheap rotors and get either OEM ones or much higher quality ones. I've heard bad things about drilled rotors, slotted does just fine.
Put a carter pin on my wastegate so the actuator arm won't fall off like it did this morning. Reinstalled the MBC and adjusted the actuator arm correctly to not overboost hopefully.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39766956]My rear drums are havent been changed and are still good where as I'm about to say fuck these cheap rotors and get either OEM ones or much higher quality ones. I've heard bad things about drilled rotors, slotted does just fine.[/QUOTE]
Rear drums usually last 250k-300k on our company trucks we had.
Never had or seen an issue with lc's rotor. But they are not cheap.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39767492]Put a [B]carter pin[/B] on my wastegate so the actuator arm won't fall off like it did this morning. Reinstalled the MBC and adjusted the actuator arm correctly to not overboost hopefully.[/QUOTE]
[IMG]http://www.affordablepoliticalitems.com/shop/images/uploads/ws02992.jpg[/IMG]
I sware Ford puts there starters in hardest place to get to.
[IMG]http://puu.sh/2aEsI[/IMG]
[editline]2nd March 2013[/editline]
break your arm just trying to tighten the bolts that mount it.
[editline]2nd March 2013[/editline]
accurate drawing skills.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/YXww6wv.png[/IMG]
I'm broke again
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39769868][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/YXww6wv.png[/IMG]
I'm broke again[/QUOTE]
we are all broke when it comes down to dorifuto~~project
Adjusted my tps a little, adjusted throttle cable.
Anyone have experience with tps's? I cant get mine to the right voltages. The fsm says that with my ignition on, throttle closed, it should read between .45 and .55v. mine was reading .62, i got it down to .58. With the throttle open fully, its supposed to read 4.2-4.7v, mine read 3.9v. After adjusting, it went down to 3.8v.
Before, with the car running, voltage was .55-.65v at idle, now its .45-.55v.
It seems to run a little better, but ive still got hesitation
I think if it's not reading the right voltages, it's gone bad and needs to be replaced, afaik.
[QUOTE=Del91;39777998]I think if it's not reading the right voltages, it's gone bad and needs to be replaced, afaik.[/QUOTE]
Thats what i was thinking. Ill probably try a used one from the junkyard just as a way to troubleshoot.
To get my current tps to the right lower voltages, i ended up having to modify the screw holes for more adjustment
What you're supposed to do is have someone else slowly move the throttle from closed to open and if there are "dead spots" your TPS is junk or something along those lines.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO I DROPPED THE COIL PACK AND IT CRACKED WHERE THE WIRES MAKE CONTACT
[QUOTE=FordLord;39777916]Adjusted my tps a little, adjusted throttle cable.
Anyone have experience with tps's? I cant get mine to the right voltages. The fsm says that with my ignition on, throttle closed, it should read between .45 and .55v. mine was reading .62, i got it down to .58. With the throttle open fully, its supposed to read 4.2-4.7v, mine read 3.9v. After adjusting, it went down to 3.8v.
Before, with the car running, voltage was .55-.65v at idle, now its .45-.55v.
It seems to run a little better, but ive still got hesitation[/QUOTE]
you're not supposed to be reading voltages.
you adjust by rotating it and mesuring using the resistance between multiple terminals according to your repair manual. The voltage can vary depending on a fuck ton of things, a out of spec tps could still give you 0V at 0% and 5V at 100% or whatever is standard for your car but have deadspot and does not trigger a "closed state". TPS aren't a potentiometer!!
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