My firebird ironically started on fire. So I had to get a new vehicle. Nothing special, but it's my fancy daily driver. 2004 pontiac grand prix gtp
Haven't done anything but throw on some random decals I had laying around after taking the stock ones off.
[url]http://s2.postimg.org/na85evd5l/sxe.png[/url]
[t]http://s2.postimg.org/na85evd5l/sxe.png[/t]
[QUOTE=find me;46767685]My firebird ironically started on fire. So I had to get a new vehicle. Nothing special, but it's my fancy daily driver. 2004 pontiac grand prix gtp
Haven't done anything but throw on some random decals I had laying around after taking the stock ones off.
[URL]http://s2.postimg.org/na85evd5l/sxe.png[/URL]
[t]http://s2.postimg.org/na85evd5l/sxe.png[/t][/QUOTE]
Welcome to the club. Watch out for the lower intake manifold gasket
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;46767705]Welcome to the club. Watch out for the lower intake manifold gasket[/QUOTE]
Already causing my oil to drain in a month. About to replace with that second gen metal gasket, ya? Luckily I have a heated shop I can work in, and from what I've read it's not too bad to fix.
[QUOTE=find me;46767717]Already causing my oil to drain in a month. About to replace with that second gen metal gasket, ya? Luckily I have a heated shop I can work in, and from what I've read it's not too bad to fix.[/QUOTE]
It won't make you lose oil, it'll make you lose coolant and risk mixing it with oil. Replace it with either the AC Delco or Fel-pro metal one, as long as it's metal.
If your oil is draining that fast it could be : Valve covers gasket, oil pan gasket or rear main seal. It also could be your oil sender unit, it can cause quite a big leak.
You should replace coolant elbows with either new Dorman Help! ones, either plastic or metal. replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets while you're there too. Use that time to drain and refill the power steering pump oil, as it's hard to reach otherwise. If your lifters are noisy, now will be the good time to replace them, if they're not, don't bother.
You'll need :
-2005.5+ revised metal gasket,
-Coolant elbows,
-Supercharger gasket,
-Valve cover gaskets and grommets,<
-Thermostat, 195* with gasket,
-Make this the time to replace all vacuum lines, you'll need about 5 feet and one Tee.
Something you NEED to do aswell, clean the throttle body till it shines back. You'll thank me this summer.
I also recommend changing the water pump as well. Takes about 30 mins more to do.
Notes when doing the job ;
-Drain the coolant FIRST and make sure the block is empty. (If you change the waterpump, this'll be easier.)
-Lift the lim STRAIGHT up, so you don't lose coolant into the block.
-Carefully clean the heads surfaces, cover the lifter valley with something so grime and particulates doesn't get into the block.
-After all is clean, empty one pint of oil around the oil valley to clean it properly.<
-You'll need 8 dabs of RTV to link the parts together, one in each corner before applying gasket, one in each corners before dropping back the LIM.
Proper oil procedure so you don't spin rod bearings:
-Change oil after re-assembly.
--Start car, let it get up to operating temperature, watch for vacuum leaks,
-Turn off car, change oil back.
--Drive with it like that 300-500 miles
-Change oil.
I did this job about 4 or 5 times. Worked on a good bunch of 3800's, owned 2 (4 if you count those of my buddy I work on too.)
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46766210]Can you describe or link me to the process, my nissan dash is also cracked and ive been thinking of fixing it.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22325-dash-repair-processpictures/[/url]
Don't skimp out on the bondo smoothing. you really need to take time reshaping
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;46767760]It won't make you lose oil, it'll make you lose coolant and risk mixing it with oil. Replace it with either the AC Delco or Fel-pro metal one, as long as it's metal.
If your oil is draining that fast it could be : Valve covers gasket, oil pan gasket or rear main seal. It also could be your oil sender unit, it can cause quite a big leak.
You should replace coolant elbows with either new Dorman Help! ones, either plastic or metal. replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets while you're there too. Use that time to drain and refill the power steering pump oil, as it's hard to reach otherwise. If your lifters are noisy, now will be the good time to replace them, if they're not, don't bother.
You'll need :
-2005.5+ revised metal gasket,
-Coolant elbows,
-Supercharger gasket,
-Valve cover gaskets and grommets,<
-Thermostat, 195* with gasket,
-Make this the time to replace all vacuum lines, you'll need about 5 feet and one Tee.
Something you NEED to do aswell, clean the throttle body till it shines back. You'll thank me this summer.
I also recommend changing the water pump as well. Takes about 30 mins more to do.
Notes when doing the job ;
-Drain the coolant FIRST and make sure the block is empty. (If you change the waterpump, this'll be easier.)
-Lift the lim STRAIGHT up, so you don't lose coolant into the block.
-Carefully clean the heads surfaces, cover the lifter valley with something so grime and particulates doesn't get into the block.
-After all is clean, empty one pint of oil around the oil valley to clean it properly.<
-You'll need 8 dabs of RTV to link the parts together, one in each corner before applying gasket, one in each corners before dropping back the LIM.
Proper oil procedure so you don't spin rod bearings:
-Change oil after re-assembly.
--Start car, let it get up to operating temperature, watch for vacuum leaks,
-Turn off car, change oil back.
--Drive with it like that 300-500 miles
-Change oil.
I did this job about 4 or 5 times. Worked on a good bunch of 3800's, owned 2 (4 if you count those of my buddy I work on too.)[/QUOTE]
You the man.
[QUOTE=when you;1]-Change oil after re-assembly.
--Start car, let it get up to operating temperature, watch for vacuum leaks,
-Turn off car, change oil back.
--Drive with it like that 300-500 miles
-Change oil.[/QUOTE]
You said "change oil back". So change the oil to fresh stuff, then change it back to the old oil? What does that do?
Is this stuff fairly easy if I look it all up? I have a general idea on how to do it all, but the only mechanical experience I have is from my first 94' v6 firebird engine. I changed a lot, and understand basic rules like gasket sealants, thread locks, torque specs, and keeping grime out of unwanted areas.
But when you mentioned "spun rod bearing", I peed a little. What exactly causes the rod bearings to want to spin after changing whatever causes them to want to spin. Or is it mostly precaution?
I am going to change and fix up everything you suggested. Hopefully I can read up about it all thoroughly and have the parts ordered by this weekend. This way I can use the entire weekend in the shop to get it done!
My oil occasionally leaks onto the belt and splashed up onto the hood by the windshield and on the side of the coolant overflow box. Does this give you an idea of where the oil leak might be coming from? I can't seem to actually see any signs of leaking above or on the side of the engine.
There was a lot of oil on the oil filter before I replaced it, but that could have been because the guy before me didn't have it tightened all the way. Either way I will investigate those possible sources of oil leakage you suggested and figure it out.
Know that I really do appreciate your advice, I can't wait to sit back in my car after I get it all tuned and running better.
The engine in the 94 Firebird was a shitheap 60* V6 that GM loves so much.. if you're done gaskets on that you can do gaskets on a 3800, easier (IMO) to work on. The only bummer part on the 3800 is the little coolant elbows coming out of the passenger side of the lower intake, which break, but are easy to change.
If you're slinging oil all over the hood from the serp belt, begin investigating. Before we tear anything apart that's what's going to need to be done. Ensure it's oil, because the coolant elbows leak all over the belt, too.
-Lower intake can leak there
-Oil pressure sensor maaaaaybe
-valve cover gaskets (leaked on my Buick 3800)
-front main seal (the harmonic balancer seal)
-heads
-oil pan
Clean thoroughly with brake clean and blow it dry with an air hose so that you're nice and clean in all areas around the front of the engine, then drive a few miles, inspect thoroughly top and bottom, and repeat until you get some oil slop.. then trace it. It can be hard, but necessary. Get some UV dye for the oil if you have to.
Also, if the leak isn't bad/substantial.. depending on where it is, I wouldn't worry about it. My daily leaks about a quart of trans fluid every 2-3 oil changes for the last year, but I haven't gotten it on a lift to dig in deep enough to find where the hell it's coming from.
Things got crankin' on the L motor, had a friend come round to help me drop the crank in.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/5m2pgVtl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/YWWj0JVl.jpg[/img]
Checked my compression ring end gaps.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/KwU3mBfl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Q56I4Nul.jpg[/img]
I need to check the rest of the conrod bearing oil clearances. After that I need to put it all together and I should have complete bottom end/ short block/ rotating assembly.
[QUOTE=find me;46768131]You the man.
You said "change oil back". So change the oil to fresh stuff, then change it back to the old oil? What does that do?
Is this stuff fairly easy if I look it all up? I have a general idea on how to do it all, but the only mechanical experience I have is from my first 94' v6 firebird engine. I changed a lot, and understand basic rules like gasket sealants, thread locks, torque specs, and keeping grime out of unwanted areas.
But when you mentioned "spun rod bearing", I peed a little. What exactly causes the rod bearings to want to spin after changing whatever causes them to want to spin. Or is it mostly precaution?
I am going to change and fix up everything you suggested. Hopefully I can read up about it all thoroughly and have the parts ordered by this weekend. This way I can use the entire weekend in the shop to get it done!
My oil occasionally leaks onto the belt and splashed up onto the hood by the windshield and on the side of the coolant overflow box. Does this give you an idea of where the oil leak might be coming from? I can't seem to actually see any signs of leaking above or on the side of the engine.
There was a lot of oil on the oil filter before I replaced it, but that could have been because the guy before me didn't have it tightened all the way. Either way I will investigate those possible sources of oil leakage you suggested and figure it out.
Know that I really do appreciate your advice, I can't wait to sit back in my car after I get it all tuned and running better.[/QUOTE]
By change oil back I mean fresh stuff, total, you'll want to do 3 oil changes in under 500 miles. It's to make sure nothing other than oil is left in the oil. Filter and oil, use cheap oil and good filter for the first two oil changes, then on the third change use good oil and even better filter. 5w-30 is the propper weight for a 3800 S3.
If you do it well, you shouldn't spin a rod bearing. And it'll cost you at max 150-200$ and take up about 4-6hrs of your time if you take your time and read everything well.
Most important thing will be to PROPERLY torque the LIM.
[t]http://www.gmforum.com/howto/tech-info/t278911/limtorque.gif[/t]
Torque to 13 ft-lb with metal gasket. Manual suggests 11ft-lb, but that's for the stock plastic gasket, with the metal one I like 13-15ft-lb.
You will need to clean the LIM bolts good and apply PTFE sealant on them, either plumber teflon tape or teflon paste. They go in coolant chambers and needs to be sealed.
Leak on the belt is surely coolant elbows, get around doing the job soon, watch your temperature with an eagle eye.
(Once you change those coolant elbows, don't put any grease on the o-ring, just lube them with a bit of coolant, best way to make sure there is no leak, coolant will aid up to slide them in, but won't stick for long enough to cause a leak unlike grease. )
If you have any more questions feel free to add me on Steam, I pretty much did all that's possible on W-bodies and 3.8's. As far as maintenance and mods goes
[editline]22nd December 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=clutch2;46768439]The engine in the 94 Firebird was a shitheap 60* V6 that GM loves so much.. if you're done gaskets on that you can do gaskets on a 3800, easier (IMO) to work on. The only bummer part on the 3800 is the little coolant elbows coming out of the passenger side of the lower intake, which break, but are easy to change.
If you're slinging oil all over the hood from the serp belt, begin investigating. Before we tear anything apart that's what's going to need to be done. Ensure it's oil, because the coolant elbows leak all over the belt, too.
-Lower intake can leak there
-Oil pressure sensor maaaaaybe
-valve cover gaskets (leaked on my Buick 3800)
-front main seal (the harmonic balancer seal)
-heads
-oil pan
Clean thoroughly with brake clean and blow it dry with an air hose so that you're nice and clean in all areas around the front of the engine, then drive a few miles, inspect thoroughly top and bottom, and repeat until you get some oil slop.. then trace it. It can be hard, but necessary. Get some UV dye for the oil if you have to.
Also, if the leak isn't bad/substantial.. depending on where it is, I wouldn't worry about it. My daily leaks about a quart of trans fluid every 2-3 oil changes for the last year, but I haven't gotten it on a lift to dig in deep enough to find where the hell it's coming from.[/QUOTE]
Front main seal has less chances of leaking that the rear one. Heads will never leak unless you overheated it like hell OR are pushing over 16-18 psi day long.
Valve covers will always leak, oil pan will leak if it's the stamped steel one(Up to 2005.5) Oil pressure sensor leaks once in a while on older models, LIM will rarely if ever leak oil, but it will leak coolant past the bolts and into the combustion chambers.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46767319]Me and my friend picked up a 1uz (toyota v8) swap for another friend of mine this morning, then I watched more drifting. My friend paid me in s13 parts lol.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ENq8TXz.jpg[/t]
then I did the bmw's first oil change in my possession, and started taking apart the q45. The intake manifold is also coming off the s13 now once I paint my spare intake. Putting a fireplace in the garage was a good decision.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OKhz9TG.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
1uz is an awesome motor, most people solid mount them because they are so balanced.
Today was my first trip to a u-pull-it yard.
It was the greatest place I've ever been in my entire life. :dance:
I disassembled the entire dashboard of a Fifth Avenue limo to get the blend door actuator I was after. Every single bolt and screw went into a bag so [I]I never have to worry about losing screws again. [/I] I have now fixed my heater, but the dash will remain in pieces because I'm doing new front speakers while I'm at it.
I also pulled a door skin and a quarter panel for my Saturn. They're the same color, so no paint! That just leaves...2 more busted panels to go. Fucking plastic.
They never lose their charm and whimsy, the door has been opened young one.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46775726]They never lose their charm and whimsy, the door has been opened young one.[/QUOTE]
All I could think was "What do they do if somebody cuts their wrist on sheet metal and bleeds out? Or if this dude working on the car next to me decides to beat my ass and steal my tools? Or if an idiot kicks the cinderblock and drops a car on himself?"
It's like a parallel universe where nobody gives a fuck about safety and everyone is totally okay with turning you loose on a yard full of cars with no supervision. Totally amazing.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;46775737]All I could think was "What do they do if somebody cuts their wrist on sheet metal and bleeds out? Or if this dude working on the car next to me decides to beat my ass and steal my tools? Or if an idiot kicks the cinderblock and drops a car on himself?"
It's like a parallel universe where nobody gives a fuck about safety and everyone is totally okay with turning you loose on a yard full of cars with no supervision. Totally amazing.[/QUOTE]
I remember my first time in one a buddy and I were trying to pull a fender off a car and we were having no luck whatsoever, and I briefly thought about asking other people for help when I reached the epiphany that that was absolutely not an option.
I don't think a single person there would have assisted someone bleeding to death, and the man bleeding to death would have the courtesy to roll himself into a ditch out of the way of everybody else.
I can't tell you why that is such a great and important thing, but it just is.
I was in a yard one time looking for some door handles and made a comment that every fucking car I looked at was missing the parts I was looking for and some random guy overheard me and asked what I was looking for and if he could help. It kinda creeped me out a little bit
I was at a yard and it was just crushed cars
I was in the trunk of an S500 in a yard once. I don't want to be in a trunk of anything ever again.
[QUOTE=Del91;46776715]I was in a yard one time looking for some door handles and made a comment that every fucking car I looked at was missing the parts I was looking for and some random guy overheard me and asked what I was looking for and if he could help. It kinda creeped me out a little bit[/QUOTE]
Lots of people in pick'n'pulls are just hanging out waiting for $20 to locate something for you. It's not that bad. They usually study a few different things and where they are - and I guess it's a small money maker thing. It's better than "pan handling" I guess.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46781362]Lots of people in pick'n'pulls are just hanging out waiting for $20 to locate something for you. It's not that bad. They usually study a few different things and where they are - and I guess it's a small money maker thing. It's better than "pan handling" I guess.[/QUOTE]
[url]www.row52.com[/url]
Have strangers find and mail you junk yard parts from the comfort of your mom's basement.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46781362]Lots of people in pick'n'pulls are just hanging out waiting for $20 to locate something for you. It's not that bad. They usually study a few different things and where they are - and I guess it's a small money maker thing. It's better than "pan handling" I guess.[/QUOTE]
Are they the guys stashing parts under seats and in trunks?
[QUOTE=Del91;46781887]Are they the guys stashing parts under seats and in trunks?[/QUOTE]
No, that's me.
[QUOTE=Del91;46781887]Are they the guys stashing parts under seats and in trunks?[/QUOTE]
Mostly actually. At the one nearby to me, there's next to zero parts mounted in the actual spot they were in. I believe the employees may make rounds too and just toss parts back into cars that are nearby in whatever door opens easiest.
Next time you go, look for one emblem in the freaking lot - next to none. Whatever can be pocketed is free - technically.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46783336]Mostly actually. At the one nearby to me, there's next to zero parts mounted in the actual spot they were in. I believe the employees may make rounds too and just toss parts back into cars that are nearby in whatever door opens easiest.
Next time you go, look for one emblem in the freaking lot - next to none. Whatever can be pocketed is free - technically.[/QUOTE]
I always notice that hood stars on Benzes are always gone when I go, but most of the valuable relays that are easier to remove and pocket aren't. I always run off with my pockets stuffed with electronics. But the guy at the yard I go to usually only bills me $15 for all of the miscellaneous shit I take, and whatever I don't use goes on the internet.
I pulled a driver door master window switch not not knowing it came apart into 3 parts...they charged me for each part, even while they were screwed together into one piece.
Oh yea. That's the first thing that'll go on any semi-fancy car. Emblems. Good luck finding a Merc, BMW, Jag, etc hood ornament. Not gonna happen.
Set out to get my alarm and door actuators installed today, instead we got the siren mounted, interior ripped apart and then spent 6+ hours trying to make door actuators work in a door with fuck all room. I finally massaged the drivers actuator in place above the garbage door mounted seatbelt with enough room for the piston to go in and out without contacting the panel but the rod is now being pinched by the door panel because there is literally no room behind the panels. I have no idea the nightmareish job that alarm/keyless installers did back in the day on these poor little cars. Tomorrow I'm setting out with a big fucking hammer and I'm gonna make it fit.
I also found out today that half of my "dash" is actually the vent channel and there's actually very very little to no extra space inside/under the dash in these cars. I can actually see the heater core through the vent selector plain as day behind the center vents. The clock is actually inside the vents. These EF Civics are built with as very little intrusion into the passenger area as possible. It's quite awesome to hop in a 600lbs and decent bit smaller car but have even more open space in all directions with the exception of the front seats being mounted slightly closer together. If only they made more cars like this but with more modern refinement and sound deadening.
I got this far today..
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2014-12-23%2022.31.39.jpg[/t]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/pBdOJPf.jpg[/t]
[T]http://i.imgur.com/JjutxYo.jpg[/t]
I plan on replacing the other side as well.
The mountains are a tiny bit visible, but not really noticeable.
Actual height is 16-16.5", width is 10.5".
[QUOTE=clutch2;46783855]Oh yea. That's the first thing that'll go on any semi-fancy car. Emblems. Good luck finding a Merc, BMW, Jag, etc hood ornament. Not gonna happen.[/QUOTE]
You can find the star on the trunk though usually!
Those aint even the cool lookin subie flaps!
Took advantage of the warm weather and time off and started painting my spare intake manifold so I can get the car running again soon.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/I5tErZf.jpg[/t]
Any ideas how I should paint the emblem?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xC4pIn0.jpg[/t]
Decided that im probably just going to cut a hole in the hood and have the intake sticking out instead of spacing it a ton. The white intake will match my tail light center and probably my drift spares.
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