[t]http://i.imgur.com/FPouBSk.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/9m0fYCO.jpg[/t]
Replacing my rear upper control arms for beefier ones. I like that feeling you get when you just sit down, do some tuner shit and enjoy the process of replacing parts. Working in the garage feels like meditation sometimes for me; get away from annoying everything and just focus on one thing until it's finished
[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;46819266]I can't stand factory paper cones. It's literally the first upgrade I do in any vehicle I get. For such a cheap upgrade, it makes the whole experience much more pleasurable. The only stock speakers in my Mustang are the 8" subs that are in the door panels, because I'm trying to find replacements that will fit..[/QUOTE]
What ford calls subs are actually 8" midbass drivers so actual 8" shallow mount subs are a PITA to fit. However take a look at the JL ZR800-CW they are about the easiest sub/midbass driver to wrangle in there at a 3.39" mounting depth it will need a new extended trim ring ala [URL="http://santafeautosound.com/blog/article/2007-ford-mustang-gt500-build"]something like this guy did [/URL]to clear everything though. other options are getting a 8" to 6.5" adapter made and mounting a set of 6.5"s in the doors
EDIT:
[URL="http://www.championmustang.com/modern/0509-shelbykicker-8-woofer-kit-for-shaker-5001000-pair-p-1142.html"]these from shelby/kicker[/URL] also work and without modification but I have no experience with those so I can't comment on the quality but there supposedly kicker CVT's contracted out for shelby
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46827589][t]http://i.imgur.com/FPouBSk.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/9m0fYCO.jpg[/t]
Replacing my rear upper control arms for beefier ones. I like that feeling you get when you just sit down, do some tuner shit and enjoy the process of replacing parts. Working in the garage feels like meditation sometimes for me; get away from annoying everything and just focus on one thing until it's finished[/QUOTE]
Fuck, I wish had a good garage right now.
It's -8F, feels like -22F, and i've gotta do a front end replacement (Yes, Ties, mounts, assembly, shocks, a control arm, joints, hub bearings, cv axles, brakes, a caliper, and the rear alignment/tie-rods on the right side).
The garage I have has no electricity and heat, barely fitting the car :v: Guess i'm doing this shit in the cold! Hopefully it'll warm up as the morning progresses.
Colorado is not being easy right now.
[QUOTE=Keys;46828281]Fuck, I wish had a good garage right now.
It's -8F, feels like -22F, and i've gotta do a front end replacement (Yes, Ties, mounts, assembly, shocks, a control arm, joints, hub bearings, cv axles, brakes, a caliper, and the rear alignment/tie-rods on the right side).
The garage I have has no electricity and heat, barely fitting the car :v: Guess i'm doing this shit in the cold! Hopefully it'll warm up as the morning progresses.
Colorado is not being easy right now.[/QUOTE]
Please be careful. The cold has a way of wrecking your hands when you're trying to work on stuff.
[QUOTE=Keys;46828281]Fuck, I wish had a good garage right now.
It's -8F, feels like -22F, and i've gotta do a front end replacement (Yes, Ties, mounts, assembly, shocks, a control arm, joints, hub bearings, cv axles, brakes, a caliper, and the rear alignment/tie-rods on the right side).
The garage I have has no electricity and heat, barely fitting the car :v: Guess i'm doing this shit in the cold! Hopefully it'll warm up as the morning progresses.
Colorado is not being easy right now.[/QUOTE]
Start the car and get it warm then pull it into the garage. Wait 30 minutes, the garage should be much warmer from the heat of the car.
I broke it
[t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3T4Q28kZcp0/VKRONkliYWI/AAAAAAAAA2I/C8YKUPQkfI0/w1566-h881/2014-12-31.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=DPKiller;46825983][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/92%20Chevy%201500/IMAG0203.jpg[/t]
Every god damn time.[/QUOTE]
Good thing that catch pan was there. Could have been a mess if it wasnt.
Got my new angel lights in!! So excited.
[URL]http://postimg.com/image/186000/image-185089.jpg[/URL]
[t]http://postimg.com/image/186000/image-185089.jpg[/t]
[t]http://www.postimg.com/image/186000/image-185089.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Slithers;46830076]I broke it
[t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3T4Q28kZcp0/VKRONkliYWI/AAAAAAAAA2I/C8YKUPQkfI0/w1566-h881/2014-12-31.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
What happened? Fuel pump died?
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFetuZmcdQI[/media]
I like it when stuff backfires.
dat 7.5 tho.
[t]http://oi60.tinypic.com/260vom1.jpg[/t]
All done! Except the exhaust, need new bolts.
[QUOTE=clutch2;46826095]the biggest exception to that rule:
Any GM product with this lump of shit in the dash;
[img]http://replacementradios.com/images/25850125_chevy_cobalt_radio.jpg[/img]
shittiest radio I've ever seen in a car made newer than 2000. You turn it to max volume and can hold a conversation over the output, easily. It's awful beyond words to the point that I'm breaking in to a cold sweat just thinking about it.
BUT! fear not, because you will soon forget about how shitty the stereo is when both front door speakers stop working, because they will... they always do.
Here's the culprit
[img]http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/attachments/audio-video/334d1332043014-quick-n-easy-speaker-swap-100_1773.jpg[/img]
GM cars make me a lot of money.[/QUOTE]
This is true, friends dad has a GMC Arcadia.
Its basically an imitation suv
The radio sounds ok but it freaks out a lot, we turn it on one day and all you get is DUDUDUUDUDD out of the dash subwoofer, also the door chime and turn signal lights ran through the stereo too, those didnt work along with everything else.
All in all, garbage.
Today I bought a valve cover stud and a replacement nut for my Civic since I broke one. Today's 10 minute job turned into a 3 hour one. The machine shop or some other asshole mechanic decided that the stud needed to be threaded through the dowel pin that holds the rocker down since it's a cam cap/valve cover stud in one.
This prevented me from simply removing it from the head and further jamming it up when taking it out, I had to completely unseat all the rocker arms/cam caps to remove one bolt. So I spent 30 minutes in a 20f garage taking apart something that shouldn't have been needed to. I then got the bolt swapped out, evened out all the rockers and got them back in place since its a awesome SOHC head. Then got out the 1/4" torque wrench which turned out to be broken anyways, I then managed to knock it into the bleeder valve on the water outlet neck on the head and the fucking thing broke off in half with the bleeder valve and piece of the bleeder hole.
So I had to get a water outlet neck from a friend which turned out that a d15b7 water neck is not the same angle as a d15b2 despite everything else being exactly the same short of the intake mani.... I tried cutting the upper hose as it "mocked" up correctly but the slight angle in it prevented it from going over the radiator neck so I cut up my good upper hose for no reason. After that I had to go buy a new hose and a gasket for the water outlet too.
I said fuck it, cut the upper hose to fit, tossed the old neck on, slathered a random bolt I found in RTV and spun it into the water neck, filled it up and burped it. Tomorrow I'll see if it leaks and if it does I'm gonna fucking JB Weld the bitch in there.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/10886410_754488874636250_1210572899_o.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/10881422_754520021299802_1499149777_n.jpg[/t]
Has anyone ever used "aluminum press in hole plugs"? I've seen people delete holes out of thermostat housings and intake manifolds with like a hammer in metal cork shaped type piece but I have no clue what they are called so I could try to even find one.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;46831580]What happened? Fuel pump died?[/QUOTE]
No, I've been having injection problems since I replaced the O2 sensor. So I richened the idle mixture to have it idle down to 700 RPM instead of idling at 1300 RPM due to an unknown reason, but it was killing my gas mileage and thinning my oil. So I went to reset the mixture, turned the idle mixture screw the wrong way which stalled the engine. So I went to reset it and the mixture screw stripped out leaving the metering plate in the same baseline position but added a crap ton of play.
The play causes more fuel to dump into the engine since there is no buffer keeping it from sending the plunger in the injection distributor so basically it thinks its running at 6k RPM and dumps even more fuel in. So the engine will not run for more than 4 seconds since it just pisses fuel into the cylinders after the cold start protocol is done.
So I have to remove the fuel distributor and air metering assembly (a purely mechanical type of mass airflow sensor) and either replace the screw which cannot just be backed out due to the design of the screw itself, or find a good used unit and stick that in and go from there.
I really don't like Bosch KE3-Jectronic because it is a mechanical system that someone at bosch decided to add electronic nannies to. This is a really shitty problem especially since this car is a California car with a California emissions system which means its stock tune is different than your standard 420SEL which is already a rare version of the W126 since most people who could afford it could also afford the more powerful and better equipped 560SEL.
All in all alot of fun.
Imagine having efi
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_132714.jpg[/IMG]
What the hell...
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_141934.jpg[/IMG]
Like...I don't even...
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_142014.jpg[/IMG]
There is no way any of these things actually do something.
Mercedes engineers are batshit fucking crazy.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;46836351][IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_132714.jpg[/IMG]
What the hell...
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_141934.jpg[/IMG]
Like...I don't even...
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/20150101_142014.jpg[/IMG]
There is no way any of these things actually do something.
Mercedes engineers are batshit fucking crazy.[/QUOTE]
Oh that's an earlier system than mine, and yes all of those things do something and even if you have a crack in one of those lines your idle could be 200-300 RPM off. The bigger rubber lines are for the engine gas circulation system which takes air out of the crankcase and mixes it with thee air from the EGR system and reburns it for emissions. Also most of this wasn't even designed by Mercedes, its a Bosch system that also happened to be popular on Porsche 911s.
The elecronic part adds an EHA valve to the fuel distributor that I believe is actuated by the ECU using signals from the O2 sensor which is turned into a convoluted duty cycle.
[t]http://i.gyazo.com/2ac5eb0287f741fff36694f61aa26d51.png[/t]
This is the air metering plate assembly. The plate that sits in that dual concave opening (the venturi) changes position based on how much air the engine is demanding, the demand is created by the vacuum on the intake stroke of the pistons. But because I broke the idle air mixture screw, the engine has lost its baseline fuel limit, so the metering plate drops by 1/3 its total travel on start up, which moves the fuel metering plunger inside the distributor.
In short, everything does something, but this fuel injection system is very reliable even if you have problems, as long as you don't break something like I did.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;46836351]
- pics of merc v8-
[/QUOTE]
I didn't even have to read that it was a merc. Those valve covers gave it away.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;46836896]I didn't even have to read that it was a merc. Those valve covers gave it away.[/QUOTE]
And if those don't then the downdraft CIS metering venturi and distributor should
[QUOTE=Slithers;46836905]And if those don't then the downdraft CIS metering venturi and distributor should[/QUOTE]
I still to this day give merc props for building a great w115.
Granted mine is a peice of shit and wont run.
But there was alot of thinking they did to make it were owners could to their own maintenance to the vehicle.
My most favorited thing was drain plugs on EVERYTHING that had a fluid in it.
Really made my day when I did not have to pump old diesel out of the tank instead of just pulling a plug and GTFOing.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/B2l8hAT.jpg?1[/t]
So I got this VLSD (similar to like posi-lock or something). Mad tyte skidzzzz dorifuto hardware
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46837170][t]http://i.imgur.com/B2l8hAT.jpg?1[/t]
So I got this VLSD (similar to like posi-lock or something). Mad tyte skidzzzz dorifuto hardware[/QUOTE]
I can put that on my front axle
:v:
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46837170][t]http://i.imgur.com/B2l8hAT.jpg?1[/t]
So I got this VLSD (similar to like posi-lock or something). Mad tyte skidzzzz dorifuto hardware[/QUOTE]
Hell yeah! My new transmission appears to be making a growling sound while idling in neutral... I hope it's just the LSD or something like that. It seems like it may have gotten quiter since i drove it a little bit. I will say this though; my new motor mounts are fucking brutal. I hate them, I hope they soften up significantly after a few hundred miles, because the vibration/droning in the cabin is going to make me go def. It's so fucking loud.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46836827]Oh that's an earlier system than mine, and yes all of those things do something and even if you have a crack in one of those lines your idle could be 200-300 RPM off. The bigger rubber lines are for the engine gas circulation system which takes air out of the crankcase and mixes it with thee air from the EGR system and reburns it for emissions. Also most of this wasn't even designed by Mercedes, its a Bosch system that also happened to be popular on Porsche 911s.
The elecronic part adds an EHA valve to the fuel distributor that I believe is actuated by the ECU using signals from the O2 sensor which is turned into a convoluted duty cycle.
[t]http://i.gyazo.com/2ac5eb0287f741fff36694f61aa26d51.png[/t]
This is the air metering plate assembly. The plate that sits in that dual concave opening (the venturi) changes position based on how much air the engine is demanding, the demand is created by the vacuum on the intake stroke of the pistons. But because I broke the idle air mixture screw, the engine has lost its baseline fuel limit, so the metering plate drops by 1/3 its total travel on start up, which moves the fuel metering plunger inside the distributor.
In short, everything does something, but this fuel injection system is very reliable even if you have problems, as long as you don't break something like I did.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I know, but it still cracks me up every time I see it.
I still remember the first time Dad and I ran the engine with the hood up and watched that circular disk descend into the intake to let air in. We both looked at each other like "What the fuuuuck?"
Those vacuum lines are the bane of my existence.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;46837546]Yeah, I know, but it still cracks me up every time I see it.
I still remember the first time Dad and I ran the engine with the hood up and watched that circular disk descend into the intake to let air in. We both looked at each other like "What the fuuuuck?"
Those vacuum lines are the bane of my existence.[/QUOTE]
Oh that's your family's car? 450SL?
My car has electrical and idle control issues, I wish I kept the old O2 sensor.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46837170][t]http://i.imgur.com/B2l8hAT.jpg?1[/t]
So I got this VLSD (similar to like posi-lock or something). Mad tyte skidzzzz dorifuto hardware[/QUOTE]
You will love it on the street but if you plan on getting into drifting at a track it will turn into an open diff after a few events. Just letting you know, not saying they are bad.
So I got the Civic back together, sanded the hell out of the housing and used plenty of gasket remover. It leaked as it sat last nigher so I had to dump it out again and fill it with whatever I had left from the antifreeze that I can't remember if it was even mixed. Got it to seal all up and started it, died off right quick because the tank was at E and it refuses to work unless there is 3-4 gallons of fuel in a 11.2 gallon tank..
Got it running, filled up and backed out to a wonderful grinding noise of the rear drums finally hitting metal and like no pedal feel. Filled it up and it refused to idle nicely, oh well took it for a short drive. Popped a CEL for the o2 and started hesitating a fair bit at partial throttle. Turned it off, checked codes and it kept hesitating while cruising. Kept driving and now it seems to have stopped. Got it home and it refused to idle down at all. On top of all this the alarm just about refuses to work and will only randomly lock/unlock unless you are less than 5ft away. So fuck if I know what's wrong with the alarm but I suppose it could be the antenna if it doesn't want to have ghost issues.
Not to mention my Integra has a deathly pop in the rear end I've been chasing down for a year and a half with no luck and it's got extremely worse and the A/C has stopped working when it's "cold" out not to mention the P/S pump now makes whining noises whenever it's cold endlessly and the injector tick sounds terrible.
So who else feels like driving all their cars off a cars off a fucking cliff everytime they touch them.
[QUOTE=Slithers;46837979]Oh that's your family's car? 450SL?
My car has electrical and idle control issues, I wish I kept the old O2 sensor.[/QUOTE]
Yup, that's my dad's '78 450SL. We were working on the blower motor today, which is why that cover is off. We did a whole digital control system retrofit on the HVAC because the Mercedes monovalve/actuator blocks always fail and new ones cost an insane amount of money. You can see some of it in the upper left corner of the picture. Lots of wiring, plumbing, and vacuum work on that job.
Quite a contrast to my Chrysler, which gets fixed with large hammers.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46838165]You will love it on the street but if you plan on getting into drifting at a track it will turn into an open diff after a few events. Just letting you know, not saying they are bad.[/QUOTE]
Dude I know, I've had and maintained 240SX for years now and worked at Nissan foo
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;46838348]Yup, that's my dad's '78 450SL. We were working on the blower motor today, which is why that cover is off. We did a whole digital control system retrofit on the HVAC because the Mercedes monovalve/actuator blocks always fail and new ones cost an insane amount of money. You can see some of it in the upper left corner of the picture. Lots of wiring, plumbing, and vacuum work on that job.
Quite a contrast to my Chrysler, which gets fixed with large hammers.[/QUOTE]
Ah so it has that horrible first gen autoclimate then. Yeah that job is horrible. Even the gen2 autoclimate isn't all that great, as the temperature control relays like to quit. I was thinking about doing a digital control system retrofit but to the W140 style console, but I can't be bothered with that.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.