[QUOTE=Dylan_94;46837301]I will say this though; my new motor mounts are fucking brutal. I hate them, I hope they soften up significantly after a few hundred miles, because the vibration/droning in the cabin is going to make me go def. It's so fucking loud.[/QUOTE]
I had prothanes in my car for a while and I ended up going back to stock because they drove me insane... they don't really get much softer, you just get used to them. But your passengers don't, so I'd always hear things like "what the hell is wrong with your car?" Probably not ever gonna try that on a daily driver again...lol
Prothanes aren't even worth money, pull out your old mounts and fill them with Window Weld. Doing that is softer and only costs about $6 instead of 10x as much.
Dylan, I'd recommend only using a quality nice soft poly mount in the rear and using the rest fresh OEM replacements if you plan on making 200+ and launching the balls out of it.
41 times as much actually.. I'm more concerned about my new gearbox at this point. It's still making that drone/growl like it's got a bad bearing or something. I can only really hear it in neutral though. Once i'm moving it may as well not even exist. Also it goes away if i press the clutch down and the transmission spins down, so i'm pretty sure it's transmission related an not so much clutch/flywheel related.
I decided to go with Innovative polyurethane mounts because they are the only ones that make aftermarket mounts for my car, and my stock ones left something to be desired. Turns out my front motor mount is totally broken so that is probably why i have been getting so much wheel hop. I'm just gonna thug it out for now until i get this clutch broken in all the way. Then i'll think about swapping mounts back.
solid metal engine/trans mount master race
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;46845443]41 times as much actually.. I'm more concerned about my new gearbox at this point. It's still making that drone/growl like it's got a bad bearing or something. I can only really hear it in neutral though. Once i'm moving it may as well not even exist. Also it goes away if i press the clutch down and the transmission spins down, so i'm pretty sure it's transmission related an not so much clutch/flywheel related.
I decided to go with Innovative polyurethane mounts because they are the only ones that make aftermarket mounts for my car, and my stock ones left something to be desired. Turns out my front motor mount is totally broken so that is probably why i have been getting so much wheel hop. I'm just gonna thug it out for now until i get this clutch broken in all the way. Then i'll think about swapping mounts back.[/QUOTE]
My 40k(previously) mile GSR trans has always made a similar noise, "racing" clutches usually come with with a notice notifying you of "gearbox vibrations and noises" that will suddenly be increased due to clamping force or something. Mine isn't incredibly noticeable though, you can just hear a difference in mechanical noise when you put in the clutch and the trans parts spin down internally.
What durameter innovative's did you go with? I'd really suggest to toss in the oem mounts into everything but the rear, the other mounts don't really need it as bad as long as they are a new and not original. Solid mounts suck though, our motors are uneven as hell.
More brake work... friend's Trailblazer rear left wheel locked up and pedal went limp .
Neglect is bad, kids. metal on metal wore the back of the rotor off to the point a chunk fell off, then caught the piston, which of course cocked it 45* in the bore, and locked the whole shit up and puked brake fluid everywhere.
Tsk tsk. Gonna put all the new stuff on tomorrow. I'll grab pics of the caliper.. and rotor. They're impressive. I don't think we chucked the rotor, I hope.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;46845916]My 40k(previously) mile GSR trans has always made a similar noise, "racing" clutches usually come with with a notice notifying you of "gearbox vibrations and noises" that will suddenly be increased due to clamping force or something. Mine isn't incredibly noticeable though, you can just hear a difference in mechanical noise when you put in the clutch and the trans parts spin down internally.
What durameter innovative's did you go with? I'd really suggest to toss in the oem mounts into everything but the rear, the other mounts don't really need it as bad as long as they are a new and not original. Solid mounts suck though, our motors are uneven as hell.[/QUOTE]
You can only hear the sound on my car when the transmission is spinning up, it goes away after it's disengaged.
I got the 75a street/track or something like that. one step up from the softest because everyone said they deform and fail. I'll be honest, they are kinda growing on me. I love how raw it feels sitting at a light and i can just feel the engine pumping. The sound and rattles suck but we'll see. They also get a bit better once it's warmed up all the way (like 15 minutes of driving). I have a feeling urethane is probably harder when it's damn near freezing outside.
[editline]3rd January 2015[/editline]
It has a year warranty though so if it shits the bed, i'll just have to send it in. I'm gonna deal with it for now until i can get a backup car.
Today I dropped the front end of my car about 1". Well the sides were not even and had to go about 1" on one side and 1.5" on the other. I measured all around the car and made a bunch of masking tape marks with measurements to be sure it was even. There's plenty of room to the bumps on the top of the torsion mount and the wheel wells look less empty and truck-like. Even though it's just 1" now my car is raked in an uphill driveway. I'm sure i can get more low/high but this is probably the extent of it driving well.
Yeah, jeep shackles in the back and that 1" drop in the front did it. If it wasn't raked before it certainly is now.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/parkshot3_zps898d0b12.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/parkshot3_zps898d0b12.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/parkshot1_zps782176bc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/parkshot1_zps782176bc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/parkshot2_zps7dd8e2a0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/parkshot2_zps7dd8e2a0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Gopro apparently doesn't take good pictures unless the sun is super bright.
Looks crispy, sir
lower the back!
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46865837]lower the back![/QUOTE]
Negative. Spent $150 to Raise the back. Jeep shackles and shocks put the ass end way up. Lowering it to the ground is as easy as taking a support out of the leafs, and letting it sag to the ground. It handles like shit there and the tires rub against the quarters - it's not desirable.
Plus, this is the correct stance that pretty much every car should follow. You should always have almost 2 feet of ground clearance in the back and next to none up front. Trust me.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;46865837]lower the back![/QUOTE]
No, he raised the back so when he puts a few dead bodies in the trunk it sits at normal height :tinfoil:
[video=youtube;SL04mKS2Y5I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL04mKS2Y5I[/video]
Had this problem since forever and have been wanting to fix it equally forever also....
So I spent Monday in 44c+ heat fixing it
Aaaand then I spent 79 bucks getting an alignment and straightening the wheel cos it was on the piss
Then on Tuesday I decided to keep up with the Jones's and made my meth lab mobile
[t]http://i.imgur.com/TBHEhZY.jpg[/t]
[I]soooon[/I]
[QUOTE=Serj22;46864693]Yeah, jeep shackles in the back and that 1" drop in the front did it. If it wasn't raked before it certainly is now.
Gopro apparently doesn't take good pictures unless the sun is super bright.[/QUOTE]
MREEEEEEOOOOOOOW CAT IN HEAT MREEEEEEEOOOWWW
[t]http://i.imgur.com/r94UYQU.jpg[/t]
Installed a C-pillar support bar. Weakness of hatchbacks unibodies. Seems somewhat sturdy, but for $20 can't complain
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;46868077]No, he raised the back so when he puts a few dead bodies in the trunk it sits at normal height :tinfoil:[/QUOTE]
Actually. Its more advanced than that. I can add bodies to the trunk, and if the rear starts to sag at all, I up the pressure of the air shocks in the back and can continue to add bodies until I reach 120psi which is the cutoff.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;46873946]MREEEEEEOOOOOOOW CAT IN HEAT MREEEEEEEOOOWWW[/QUOTE]
I swear to god Ill throw my boot
Remember to always spay and neuter your pets!
So I bought amber LEDS for all of my dash lights in my Integra. The cluster lights are rather bright and the switch and climate control lights are crazy dim to the point they hardly light up the climate control and the hazard switch/defrost switch ones don't even fit..
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/DC%20Pics/2015-01-08%2022.23.11.jpg[/t]
My plans are to go with amber incandescents in the cluster and replace the rest with "high power" LEDS. I figure worst comes worst I dim them all down and leave the cluster LED. However, removing the climate control is one of the most irritating things to do in these cars so once again I'm going to murder my fingers and try to slice my hands on every sharp piece of dash metal.
I'll have to call up superbrightleds tomorrow but I'm pretty sure I just totally wasted $20.
Awww yeah fuckin' oil change time
[img]http://i.imgur.com/wDyBx3Vl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/eI8Tkp2l.jpg[/img]
I love working on old cars, the oil filters right fucking there.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/57v79SKl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/DB2AOY9l.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/pdEXFLAl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/ik8s1Rbl.jpg[/img]
New year, new oil.
Slayer, when you checked on the site for your dash lights, did you only use the universal car bulb finder or did you use it as a way to see what the bulbs fitting is and do a broader search?
Because it seems the search function is somewhat lacking in a few areas and the second method of searching sometimes works better.
It also looks really good, I'm diggin it. I was thinking about red, green or blue myself, but I want something easy on the eyes thats not yellow/amber. I'm not a fan of yellow/amber, but I know when it looks good.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;46889360]Slayer, when you checked on the site for your dash lights, did you only use the universal car bulb finder or did you use it as a way to see what the bulbs fitting is and do a broader search?
Because it seems the search function is somewhat lacking in a few areas and the second method of searching sometimes works better.
It also looks really good, I'm diggin it. I was thinking about red, green or blue myself, but I want something easy on the eyes thats not yellow/amber. I'm not a fan of yellow/amber, but I know when it looks good.[/QUOTE]
Nah, I looked up what bulbs I needed on Honda-Tech/Team-Integra. Neither article mentioned you needed to trim bulb latches to fit into the defrost/hazard switches although I later found one stating you needed to... Neither article mentioned that there's fuck all clearance under the bulbs and that most of these bulbs won't fit in those switches. However, they worked amazingly in the cruise control switch and very mediocrely in the climate control.
So I'm gonna have to call them up and see what they say they can do for me, I'm gonna just use incandescents in my hazard/defrost switches and since one already has an amber condom on it for the "on" light I'm going to try to convince one onto a new bulb super long bulb I bought forever ago so both will be pretty similar. Then I'm hoping to get 4 4mm amber high power bulbs for the climate control and a high power 3mm for the cruise. I have a total mess of bulbs because I also bought some for the Civic's hazard/defrost swtiches so I'm gonna try to find places for the ones I have currently and exchange what I can't use.
[editline]8th January 2015[/editline]
I've fell in love with amber after being in a Mazda 6 and a few BMW's, the Integra Type-R has amber bulbs in the cluster and the climate control switches are painted amber on the backs. The stock lighting in the Integra has always been very dim and slowly all my lights have burnt out recently leaving only dingy cluster bulbs and two of the climate control lights now I almost regret doing this at all lol.
At least today I found out my formerly brand new swaybar endlinks have failed and have been causing my rear end pops for the last year and a half. Looks like Beck/Arnley parts won't go on my Integra anymore where they matter as they obviously don't make a part remotely as strong as an OEM part. So I guess my next move is to buy two endlinks from Honda for $65 which are just metal with a welded nut and a rubber bushing and aftermarket replacements are usually $10 each.
[editline]8th January 2015[/editline]
It's also a bit more orange, my camera just wants to try to burn everything white because it's an LG G2.
Just get some energy suspension replacements, that'll do ya.
I'm also kinda fond of green to be honest. I came into ownership of an old pack of green painted incandescents some time last year, like 6 or 8 months ago, and popped em' into my cluster and the looked pretty awesome but they all burned out pretty fast, might have been lower voltage specialty bulbs.
So if I get jaunty about it I might get some green LEDs for replacements, the other bits will need custom work, like controls and indicators (SRS, ABS, PRND321 ect.).
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;46889283]
I love working on old cars, the oil filters right fucking there.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/57v79SKl.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/DB2AOY9l.jpg[/img]
[/QUOTE]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I know the feeling. Lucky for you, your filter sits on the block sideways. Mine sits pointing up, so no matter how you remove it - oil dumps out of the filter momentarily if you take your time unscrewing it and getting it flipped over. NO climbing under the car. This shows the nice slush mess I made popping the filter off the last time. That's the smallest amount of spillage I've ever gotten.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46889511][URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I know the feeling. Lucky for you, your filter sits on the block sideways. Mine sits pointing up, so no matter how you remove it - oil dumps out of the filter momentarily if you take your time unscrewing it and getting it flipped over. NO climbing under the car. This shows the nice slush mess I made popping the filter off the last time. That's the smallest amount of spillage I've ever gotten.[/QUOTE]
you could try punching a hole or two into the top of it and only remove it once all of the oil has drained out the sump.
That way the filter will be mostly empty by the time you unscrew it.
[QUOTE=Serj22;46889511][URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/IMG_20140923_094640_zps7e6fb819.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I know the feeling. Lucky for you, your filter sits on the block sideways. Mine sits pointing up, so no matter how you remove it - oil dumps out of the filter momentarily if you take your time unscrewing it and getting it flipped over. NO climbing under the car. This shows the nice slush mess I made popping the filter off the last time. That's the smallest amount of spillage I've ever gotten.[/QUOTE]
In my case the oil behind the sealed recessed section spills down the block, doesn't matter to me the enginebays in deporable condition.
Even in my relatively new luxury automobile, the oil filter is easily accesible, at least from the underside. And it's one of the lowest points on the engine, so the oil doesn't spill all over.
[QUOTE=Unidan;46891114]Even in my relatively new luxury automobile, the oil filter is easily accesible, at least from the underside. And it's one of the lowest points on the engine, so the oil doesn't spill all over.[/QUOTE]
Are you VLN or what?
I'm honestly surprised you haven't figured me out yet, Lars.
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