Spent the afternoon trying to disconnect the battery and getting the plastic covers off around the steering column to try and replace the ignition switch, only to find out that I need this special screw driver to get the one, single screw on the switch off...
[img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee156/willonmitchell/Van%20Guide/IMG_2174.jpg[/img]
[editline]7th May 2013[/editline]
If you're wondering, I don't have it, I just grabbed that image of a T4 forum.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;40559375]Replaced the rubber seals around both doors in the Beetle.
Now the doors are actually sealed tight when closed. Much less wind noise and washing it won't cause the interior to float away[/QUOTE]
I need to do the same also... And replace every thing made out of rubber bushings, body stoppers .ect
Care to in lighten me ruffly how long it took you to replace just the cabin seals?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;40538221]I do, the [url=http://www.gsmarena.com/lg_motion_4g_ms770-4948.php]MS770 Motion.[/url] The only reason I didn't get the BT one was because I didn't want to rely on my phone to tune ECUs. My dual-core laptop is sill faster then my dual-core phone.
I don't have that software yet, I need to get it so it'll just be reading/erasing codes for now.[/QUOTE]
you shud get a quad core for 4x the horespowah
[QUOTE=DPKiller;40561178]I need to do the same also... And replace every thing made out of rubber bushings, body stoppers .ect
Care to in lighten me ruffly how long it took you to replace just the cabin seals?[/QUOTE]
10 minutes.
Rip out the old ones, stuff new ones in
I bought masking tape to protect the inside of the door, a thin steel brush to clean out the old glue and glue to glue the new ones in but the new ones were fatter than the space in the doors so I just tucked them in without glue and they fit better than the old ones did
[QUOTE=Gulen;40560721]Spent the afternoon trying to disconnect the battery and getting the plastic covers off around the steering column to try and replace the ignition switch, only to find out that I need this special screw driver to get the one, single screw on the switch off...
[img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee156/willonmitchell/Van%20Guide/IMG_2174.jpg[/img]
[editline]7th May 2013[/editline]
If you're wondering, I don't have it, I just grabbed that image of a T4 forum.[/QUOTE]
i have one of those.
or get a wrench to fit on one of those screwdriver bits.
put the boxed in part on the pit instant low clearance piece.
Restored the audi's left headlight. Not quite as clear as the right, but it really only needed to be done for aesthetics
my front lip arrived at my house
i'm sitting here at work
with 2 hours left of my shift
fuck this gay earth
Got something for my truck today...
[t]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428534_168440406654685_1803214075_n.jpg[/t]
Spent the day changing my RX7's oil and oil filter, put new speakers up front and mounted the rear speakers better, and changed out the headlights. The headlights had 1996 written on them and were super dim, the oil was BLACK and smelt, and the oil filler tube thing was rusted on the inside where the oil filler cap screws in. Guy I bought it from seemed to care for the car, getting it new paint, new interior, and an engine rebuild. Also Found part of the rear sway-bar near the back rear wheel is bent downwards which seems odd. There is so much that needs done on this car, I absolutely love it.
Got a question guys. About 2 months ago I had my car MOT'd and a couple of things were fixed, the steering related things that were fixed were the nearside and offside 'front track rod end ball joint', which were reported to have slight play. Also the Nearside front Drop link was said to be changed.
Ever since this work has been done I've noticed the steering returnability is off, and steering is a little stiffer. I constantly have to straighten the wheel now when before it straightened itself. How did they fuck this up? Should the wheel have been aligned?
I got 2 new tyres today because there was massive tyre wear on the inside shoulder, but I think there was a little wear before this.
Alignment? Ball joint?
[editline]8th May 2013[/editline]
I think I'm going to find a flat area and lift the front of my car soon, gonna check all ball joints and connections for any play, if there isn't any I'll take it for an alignment.
[editline]8th May 2013[/editline]
Oh and I'm talking about tie rod ends, us Brits call them track rod ends.
sounds like it needs a simple alignment
This was before I tightened everything up and made it fit flush.
[t]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/321468_187163164770171_1934892880_n.jpg[/t]
fuck a lift
Damn boy, that's a sweet little lip you got there.
so i bought this spoiler for the cobra a while back
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/1996 Cobra/P1330846.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/1996 Cobra/P1330847.JPG[/IMG]
but im not really liking how it looks in person so i'm probably just going to go spoilerless and weld in some metal to fill the holes before i paint
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/1996 Cobra/P1330844.JPG[/IMG]
^can also see the burn marks from my fire spitting :v:
Found an F22b(?) at the yard, gonna try and get that mofo.
Bradley, what can I do to it for cheap? I mean dirt fucking cheap.
Also, it's in an Accord. :v:
[i]~edited for fear of death by honda block...~[/i]
F22B DOHC? Or F22B USDM SOHC?
You should find a nice non-VTEC F22Ax (or a sweet DOHC H23!) and a DSM turbo manifold. Take the manifold and an H23 exhaust gasket to a shop and have them drill it to match (three holes need drilled, the rest line up perfectly). Do an OBD2a->OBD1 conversion. Bolt on a 16G or T25 (get an adapter so the circle bore phases into the T25 square bore!), or a 14b if you're desperate and want boost for cheap. Get some DSM 440cc injectors. Get a basemap tune from xenocron. Enjoy ~200hp.
If it's a DOHC VTEC F22B, that's a ~160hp engine, basically like bolting a first generation B16A into your car. Not a whole lot of mosey for such a large car. If it's a USDM F22Bx (1 being VTEC and 2 being Non-VTEC) don't even bother. The exhaust manifold pattern won't match a budget DSM manifold and the head flow is ridiculously low compared to the earlier (and better) F22Ax. You'll be hard pressed to find a better flowing stock head casting for any Honda engine than that of the F22Ax.
The F22A has a great compression ratio for forced induction, right at 8.8:1 which means safe low boost is easily obtainable. The fact that a DSM manifold is a near bolt-on unit is just the bee's knees as well, because that means any MHI turbo you yank from a junkyard is pretty much a bolt-and-go upgrade. Since they have IWG, it's also easier to bolt on, since the wastegate dump is just part of the downpipe. The only thing you'd need to do is plumb oil lines and install charge piping, an intercooler, and a cheap blowoff valve (In fact, use the DSM unit. Great cheap BOV, and they work okay for a junkyard setup like this).
If you're looking to just swap over and leave it naturally aspirated, then an F22Ax is still the best way to go. The engine itself is just slightly lighter than DOHC/SOHC+VTEC counterparts, and the flow is just so great on the cylinder head that N/A bolt-ons with a tune are going to net you a small chunk of HP each time. With removal of emissions equipment (if your state allows it) and a decent tune on a fully stock F22Ax, you can easily make the 160hp you'd have with a DOHC JDM F22B with much less weight (because you don't have the massive DOHC casting). With proper build work and supporting mods, N/A F22s can easily see past the 200hp mark.
Conclusion: Don't get an F22B of any sort, it's a waste of money unless it's just really cheap and you NEED an F/H series engine.
[editline]8th May 2013[/editline]
Also,
[QUOTE=Scientwist;40572591]Bradly, what can I do to it for cheap?[/QUOTE]
[i]spell my name wrong one more time, motherfucker...[/i]
Well I caved...
I bought a set of Bilstein HD front struts, Koni adjustable rear shocks and a set of 23/23 mm sway bars for the 240.
All for the awesome price of a single brand new Bilstein HD front strut.
Now about that transmission swap I have been putting off.
And the fact I still have to install my oil cooler and my Walbro 255 and my fuel filter.
I remember seeing this ages ago and I posted it here along conversation of an Accord or something but I remember a build thread of a F series budget build that made something stupid like 200whp for about $800 out of pocket for the whole setup and everything(not including ecu, ect.).
I dug up whatever I could find remotely interesting though.
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1658106[/url]
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2507658[/url]
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2592810[/url]
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1938405[/url]
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3000109[/url]
[url]http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=46925651&postcount=100[/url]
So I was tired of brushing the varnish off these parts and spraying brake cleaner. It would take forever without a dip. But I didn't want to spend so much money on acids and chemicals. I stumbled upon some bike forums and how they submerged their carbs in Pine-Sol to remove dirt and grease.
[URL]http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117[/URL]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BUs7Gx6.png[/IMG]
2:1 water and I left it for a 12 hours. Super clean! Non-flammable, doesn't harm plastics or rubber and you can flush it down the drain. I bought two more jugs and am dipping more stuff right now. Parts will be clean and smelling fresh. :dance:
Holy crap. And that crap even smells good too! I gotta try that out!
[QUOTE=bradley;40572936]F22B DOHC? Or F22B USDM SOHC?
~wall of awesome info~
Conclusion: Don't get an F22B of any sort, it's a waste of money unless it's just really cheap and you NEED an F/H series engine.
[editline]8th May 2013[/editline]
Also,
[i]spell my name wrong one more time, motherfucker...[/i][/QUOTE]
It's a SOHC, F22B1 I think. So what your saying is keep looking for something better, got it. That B16B1 DOHC is looking better already. I read up on it, it's apparently a euro block.
I'm still not aware of any B16B1, you really should post some pictures of it because I'm intrigued.
B16B engines rev for years, but a B series in a platform designed for the INCREDIBLY superior F-series is just ridiculous. If one was to go with a good B series block, though, the B16A2 is THE best block. It has a near-ideal 1.74:1 rod/stroke ratio (ideal is 1.75:1) with oil squirters for each cylinder, making it the most efficient B series block with the best revving crank/rod setup from stock.
B16B engines also don't exist outside of Japan. The B16B was developed solely for the Type R EK Civic, and wasn't used in anything else. This also means that numbered variants (B16B1, B16B2) don't exist. I don't know who or where told you about a B16B1 but it's a complete and utter lie.
Never in my life have I seen an engine stamped B16B1, and there's a good reason for it -- it doesn't exist.
[editline]9th May 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;40576090]That B16B1 DOHC is looking better already.[/QUOTE]
Also, when referring to a B-series engine, slapping DOHC on the end is kind of pointless -- All B series engines are DOHC, aside from some of the A-series based B20A engines, which are widely considered rubbish, and are also NOTHING alike the modern B-series.
Co-worker of mine has an Accord with an F-series engine in it. That fucker flys...
[QUOTE=bradley;40578686]B16B engines rev for years, but a B series in a platform designed for the INCREDIBLY superior F-series is just ridiculous. If one was to go with a good B series block, though, the B16A2 is THE best block. It has a near-ideal 1.74:1 rod/stroke ratio (ideal is 1.75:1) with oil squirters for each cylinder, making it the most efficient B series block with the best revving crank/rod setup from stock.
B16B engines also don't exist outside of Japan. The B16B was developed solely for the Type R EK Civic, and wasn't used in anything else. This also means that numbered variants (B16B1, B16B2) don't exist. I don't know who or where told you about a B16B1 but it's a complete and utter lie.
Never in my life have I seen an engine stamped B16B1, and there's a good reason for it -- it doesn't exist.
[editline]9th May 2013[/editline]
Also, when referring to a B-series engine, slapping DOHC on the end is kind of pointless -- All B series engines are DOHC, aside from some of the A-series based B20A engines, which are widely considered rubbish, and are also NOTHING alike the modern B-series.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for the clear up, gonna get a pic of both of those engines to be double sure of what the hell they are. I'm gona try like hell to up load them too, still gotta upload the pic of that mustang. Got busy fixing my sisters truck and forgot... I hate [b][i]302s[/i][/b]... stupid non adjustable rockers...
A 301? Pontiac V8? Nobody else makes a 301 I know of, and it'd be awfully strange for a 301 Pontiac to be in a truck.
[QUOTE=bradley;40579617]A 301? Pontiac V8? Nobody else makes a 301 I know of, and it'd be awfully strange for a 301 Pontiac to be in a truck.[/QUOTE]
I'm curious too. I know the 301 had a short history with a couple other GM cars, but this is the first I've heard of a truck. Which is funny because a turbo 301 would have been a great challenge to the Ford Lighting of the time, but those definitely only came in Pontiacs and Yenko's.
If we're talking about the Ford 302, I really liked taking the one in my old explorer apart. Compared to my Chevy 454, the preset valve train with non-adjustable rockers made everything cherry. Better than having to rotate the engine by hand 20 times to set the rocker play...
[QUOTE=dbk21894;40566948]sounds like it needs a simple alignment[/QUOTE]
Took it in today, they said the alignment was a mile off, no wonder my steering and tyre wear was so bad. They said they didn't want to align it just yet though as it felt like there was some play in the tie rods, so I'm getting that checked out tomorrow then straight back for the alignment.
i have to get the 7 aligned as well
when they replaced all the front suspension bits they were going to align it, then said "Whoa hold on, your tires are too big (oversized ftw)" and said they couldn't do it properly
so now my steering wheel is 11 degrees to the left off center to go straight
imma get it sorted at some point
wat alignment? The front of my beetle has alot of negitive camber.
I should get it fixed before I wear down that tire like the others... Hell I gotta figure out why it sits 5ft off the ground in the front.
*throws a fully loaded toolbox in the bonet* ALL DONE
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