• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Van-man;40878240]I rolled the inner fender lip up on my old Corolla with a baseball bat :v: I didn't give much of a fuck about that car anyway since it was a cheap beater.[/QUOTE] The less wear and tear on the car the less irked my family will be that i'm molesting my daily.
[QUOTE=Van-man;40878410]And I still need a wiring diagram for my car. Apparently the horn has been rewired so the light switch needs to be flicked, and the key put in the ignition for it to work. There's [B]DEFINITELY[/B] been a aftermarket alarm installed in the past, but I can't fix the fuckups done without factory wiring diagram.[/QUOTE] What car is it? I know someone has posted a website with a lot of service manuals here before, maybe they could post it again?
Changed spark plug from bosch to NGK because corolla doesnt like Bosch. slight performance increase.
[QUOTE=Gulen;40878681]What car is it? I know someone has posted a website with a lot of service manuals here before, maybe they could post it again?[/QUOTE] Retoast [url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1213187[/url]
Installed my exhaust setup for inspection. Cherry bomb 36 inch, pipe angled out before passenger side rear tire. Oh and some parts showed up... [t]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/970129_177013152464077_214840387_n.jpg[/t] U-bolts will be here tuesday. So pumped. Bought it back in March and its finally almost done.
[QUOTE=Gulen;40878681]What car is it?[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=Van-man;40786871]Anyone got a wiring diagram for a [I]VW Passat 35i[/I] ?? (pre-facelift model with [B]SB[/B] engine to be precise)[/QUOTE]
12mm front spacers, 20mm rear spacers. Please ignore my dust. [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/1168.JPG[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/2155.JPG[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/3141.JPG[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/474.JPG[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/539.JPG[/t]
Ordered an OMP-Racing WRC wheel with suede leather. Yum. Got a Chilimod adapter aswell so I can take it out of the GTO and attach it to my G27.
-Located and fixed all boost leak up to 26psi -Fabbed some DIY air ducts to converge all the air toward the radiator. 8-9 Celcius less and doesn't spike when beating the ol' 1jz.
So me and my buddy got into the car to fix the driver door lock from not locking. It now locks, from the inside and out. I had to crawl across the center console to get out and we are revisiting the issue in the morning. We think it is just a rod that got misaligned.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40879566] -Fabbed some DIY air ducts to converge all the air toward the radiator. 8-9 Celcius less and doesn't spike when beating the ol' 1jz.[/QUOTE] Ive been meaning to fab up some things to help cooling on my car. Supposedly adding a plate on top of the radiator covering the gap between the grille/front beam/radiator helps a decent amount. If i really wanted to, ive also got my hood vents i could use some how. Some rally cars that had FMIC used the vents to help cool the intercooler. Of course, no turbo here, so id use the vents elsewhere.
[QUOTE=FordLord;40883240]Ive been meaning to fab up some things to help cooling on my car. Supposedly adding a plate on top of the radiator covering the gap between the grille/front beam/radiator helps a decent amount. If i really wanted to, ive also got my hood vents i could use some how. Some rally cars that had FMIC used the vents to help cool the intercooler. Of course, no turbo here, so id use the vents elsewhere.[/QUOTE] A shroud that covers the area around the fans would help more than that. Are you sure your water pump, thermo, an everthing else is in working order? Even the hood being seated correctly helps cooling.
[QUOTE=Serj22;40883354]A shroud that covers the area around the fans would help more than that. Are you sure your water pump, thermo, an everthing else is in working order? Even the hood being seated correctly helps cooling.[/QUOTE] The fans already have shrouds iirc. Everything else seems to work, and it doesnt seem to cool too bad as it is, but id like to improve cooling a bit where i can
[QUOTE=FordLord;40883537]The fans already have shrouds iirc. Everything else seems to work, and it doesnt seem to cool too bad as it is, but id like to improve cooling a bit where i can[/QUOTE] If its not overheating, I wouldn't mess with it. If the temp stays constant and heats up in the correct amount of time, thats a good thing.
afaik, you want it to run about the middle of the gauge. Any cooler and it's less efficient.
[QUOTE=Serj22;40883605]If its not overheating, I wouldn't mess with it. If the temp stays constant and heats up in the correct amount of time, thats a good thing.[/QUOTE] Ive never had it overheat. Since ive reworked my front bumper for more air flow to the rad, got it running better, my temps have dropped pretty good. My oem gauge doesnt show numbers, but the average has dropped quite a bit. My only issue now is in stop and go traffic when its very hot out. It does start to rise slowly. Im thinking a quick diy plate on top would help a bit [editline]3rd June 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=Del91;40883831]afaik, you want it to run about the middle of the gauge. Any cooler and it's less efficient.[/QUOTE] Heres where mine sits after warmed up; [t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-05-22-19-28-57-242_zpsbe55ab8e.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=FordLord;40883862]Ive never had it overheat. Since ive reworked my front bumper for more air flow to the rad, got it running better, my temps have dropped pretty good. My oem gauge doesnt show numbers, but the average has dropped quite a bit. My only issue now is in stop and go traffic when its very hot out. It does start to rise slowly. Im thinking a quick diy plate on top would help a bit [editline]3rd June 2013[/editline] Those types of guages do not represent a temperature really. They are more representing a normal circumstance for you to monitor. I wish they all had numbers and read numerically, because then you'd be able to tell what's going on. If that's normally where it sits, on a more modern gauge, that would be considered cold. It should hover around dead center - sort of. But that gauge is old, the car is not the newest, the gauge may not work correctly. Before you go diagnosing a heating issue, find a cheap <$20 aftermarket gauge and hook it up. Then see what the numerical temp reads. Sometimes an overheating or overcooling issue is nothing more than a broken gauge. Heres where mine sits after warmed up; [t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-05-22-19-28-57-242_zpsbe55ab8e.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
My jeeps gauges scaling bothers me, 100...|...210...|...275 Parking it while I prepare to swap to the open cooling system, soon I'll have a radiator cap and an overflow tank.
100 + 100 more dollars later and 3 hours, fenders are rolled and cut. I don't blame the guy for charging me extra, he charged me for 2 hours of labor when it took him 3. Then again, he has never had to work with such annoying wheel arches before. The inside wheel arches paint is almost all gone, but that is not visible from the outside and he touched it up with paint to prevent rust. He couldn't roll it all so he cut it too. So yeah, ill put up pics later.
got my door re-unlocked. I need to order a plastic connector for it.
-ordered a new DS carrier bearing -order'd 3 new spider unions (u-joints) -modified my turbosmart boost tee ("gated" technology is junk on very fast spooling turbos or twins like the ct12a) Removed the spring and ball and it lessened the spiking by a fuckton. 16psi on those fucker is cool -Fixed my sub because my gf threw her bag on the rear seat and it pulled on the sub ground.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40891879] -modified my turbosmart boost tee ("gated" technology is junk on very fast spooling turbos or twins like the ct12a) Removed the spring and ball and it lessened the spiking by a fuckton. 16psi on those fucker is cool[/QUOTE] AFAIK a standard hardware store T-fitting sometimes works better than the funky ball&spring T thingy that comes with most boost controllers. A distant friend did that with his MK3 turbo'd Supra.
don't know if anybody remember how fucking disgusting my enginebay was well now it is slightly less phase 1: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/U9NCIDC.png[/IMG] It would be far more clean and the wiretucking would be complete if I wouldn't work so much
^damn that looks awesome. How is that Mishimoto rad treating that engine? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ItGhJRR.jpg?1[/IMG] Girlfriend made a velvet shift boot for her S13. Also I played soccer with her busted alternator. Swapped mine from my car and I also changed her sway bar bushings; no more death body roll [editline]edit[/editline] Fuck found out GF's sway bars were the dealer extra package. They're bigger than stock so these bushings are too small. Welp
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;40895945]^damn that looks awesome. How is that Mishimoto rad treating that engine? [/QUOTE] Overpriced shiny bling. "race radiators" are made by the same people, same cores and end tank except it's not stamped MISHIMOTO and it is 175$ for a brand new unit. But it is a decent bolt on replacement (ol' 7m shroud fit would be alright on that rad). It holds more coolant than stock and is thicker. the cap is fucking cheap, I'm on my third
Interesting day today. Had all the panels off the TZR to fix a leaking fuel tap, and this is what the seal looked like inside [t]http://i.imgur.com/e0F7gJ5.jpg[/t] It's somehow twisted around a bit, so it wasn't doing much. New seal in, all fixed. Then I started the bike. Smoke everywhere. I could have cried, but I later found out that there's a small hole in the exhaust that come from nowhere, and the smoke's gone after it warms up so no biggie.
covering up the old 86 for paint. o yas.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;40900005]Overpriced shiny bling. "race radiators" are made by the same people, same cores and end tank except it's not stamped MISHIMOTO and it is 175$ for a brand new unit. But it is a decent bolt on replacement (ol' 7m shroud fit would be alright on that rad). It holds more coolant than stock and is thicker. the cap is fucking cheap, I'm on my third[/QUOTE] I've been running a mishimoto rad for a few years with no problems... don't remember it even being that expensive especially compared to something like a koyo which was like $400 lol
Hot damn, with the pricetag of "race" radiators it would almost be cheaper and better to modify heavy duty OEM radiators to your exact specs. If you happen to know a guy who can weld aluminum for a fair price.
Put on my new 5mm wheel spacers, tightened up my suspension bolts from where I installed the bar and shocks and finally reinstalled my shitty belly pan that is about to fall apart since I cant get a replacement. Also my rear brake rotors are starting to crack so im getting a new set.
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