• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=slayer3032;41087747]Ordering some parts from Rockauto. Here's my 5% code again, it's good til 6/30. 1462459711985506[/QUOTE] Ill keep it in mind if my caliper sticks again. Anyone know what rebuild brands are good for brake calipers? Looking on Rockauto, they offer; Raybestos Wagner Centric Nastra A-1 Cardone and Beck Arnley. Ive never bought brake parts, so anyone have advice on what rebuilder is usually good?
we've used wagner at work and nothings failed afaik
[QUOTE=FordLord;41088022]Ill keep it in mind if my caliper sticks again. Anyone know what rebuild brands are good for brake calipers? Looking on Rockauto, they offer; Raybestos Wagner Centric Nastra A-1 Cardone and Beck Arnley. Ive never bought brake parts, so anyone have advice on what rebuilder is usually good?[/QUOTE] Beck Arnley from my experience carries the parts that are completely identical to OEM specs for my Nissan. Other brands cast their products differently or manufactured with different materials from OEM. They also offshore the parts manufacturing process compared to Beck Arnley that most of the time carries parts from the OEM country of origin Cardone is also good. Raybestos sometimes redesigns the products which is a big no
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;41088623]Beck Arnley from my experience carries the parts that are completely identical to OEM specs for my Nissan. Other brands cast their products differently or manufactured with different materials from OEM. They also offshore the parts manufacturing process compared to Beck Arnley that most of the time carries parts from the OEM country of origin Cardone is also good. Raybestos sometimes redesigns the products which is a big no[/QUOTE] Just a wild thought here shiban: What if, this is going to sound crazy, y' know, they actually make improvements to the parts? Crazy suggestion I know.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41088640]Just a wild thought here shiban: What if, this is going to sound crazy, y' know, they actually make improvements to the parts? Crazy suggestion I know.[/QUOTE] assuming they were bad in the first place.
[QUOTE=Del91;41088815]assuming they were bad in the first place.[/QUOTE] even if the OEM parts were good to begin with, straight from the factory, theres almost always improvements to be made.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41088836]even if the OEM parts were good to begin with, straight from the factory, theres almost always improvements to be made.[/QUOTE] Not necessarily. Kind of like aftermarket clutch fan assemblies for the 240SX. Anything other than the original viscous Aisin design will destroy itself catastrophically. The Aisin unit just seizes but doesn't fall apart. Obviously re-designs can be good as can be seen with the aftermarket possibilities. The thing that bugs me are the supposed "OEM quality and replacement" stuff they peddle. If they aren't made in the same country of origin with the same manufacturing methods they will never be the same. There's a reason they're $30 instead of $130 imo. That's just me using those equipment and have failed me several times over. Stuff like water pumps, oil pumps, fan clutches and more recently the clutch assembly that run a constant heavy-duty cycle, if replaced with inferior aftermarket parts that tout their "OEM quality" but destroy themselves, it just doesn't tide me over
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;41089100]Not necessarily. Kind of like aftermarket clutch fan assemblies for the 240SX. Anything other than the original viscous Aisin design will destroy itself catastrophically. The Aisin unit just seizes but doesn't fall apart. Obviously re-designs can be good as can be seen with the aftermarket possibilities. The thing that bugs me are the supposed "OEM quality and replacement" stuff they peddle. If they aren't made in the same country of origin with the same manufacturing methods they will never be the same. There's a reason they're $30 instead of $130 imo. That's just me using those equipment and have failed me several times over. Stuff like water pumps, oil pumps, fan clutches and more recently the clutch assembly that run a constant heavy-duty cycle, if replaced with inferior aftermarket parts that tout their "OEM quality" but destroy themselves, it just doesn't tide me over[/QUOTE] Thats why I said 'almost always' :v: I get what you're saying, its just that a lot of the time there are better than OEM options available(at least in my experiences, I have no idea about Nissan or anything.), but of course they will cost more, if not a shitload more :v: [editline]19th June 2013[/editline] I agree with you though, in most instances you cant go wrong with OEM.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41089165] I agree with you though, in most instances you cant go wrong with OEM.[/QUOTE] It just boils down to which company/corporation pays the most attention to their products. Some companies go for the extremely bare-minimum just enough to pass some specs. Others completely redesign and improve upon the basic spec. Kinda like using Chinese re-created/re-cast parts when there are parts like Edelbrock available
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41089165]Thats why I said 'almost always' :v: I get what you're saying, its just that a lot of the time there are better than OEM options available(at least in my experiences, I have no idea about Nissan or anything.), but of course they will cost more, if not a shitload more :v: [editline]19th June 2013[/editline] I agree with you though, in most instances you cant go wrong with OEM.[/QUOTE] If you're going for a performance upgrade, then yes. But if you're just doing maintenance, OEM spec will do 9 times out of 10. Also, Aisin is pretty much the top of the heap when it comes to parts.
[QUOTE=FordLord;41088022]Ill keep it in mind if my caliper sticks again. Anyone know what rebuild brands are good for brake calipers? Looking on Rockauto, they offer; Raybestos Wagner Centric Nastra A-1 Cardone and Beck Arnley. Ive never bought brake parts, so anyone have advice on what rebuilder is usually good?[/QUOTE] Really depends on what brand you want and what is a good deal. Honestly front calipers are kinda a rip off, there's only like 4-5 parts to them and a reman caliper is pretty much just a dipped, repainted, resealed caliper. You can get a "repair kit" for a $1-3, a can of caliper paint, some brake cleaner and do the same thing they do for the most part yourself if you want to. As long as the caliper isn't seized/welded together you can do it yourself. Rear calipers with an e-brake are a whole different story though. [QUOTE=Deadman123;41089165]Thats why I said 'almost always' :v: I get what you're saying, its just that a lot of the time there are better than OEM options available(at least in my experiences, I have no idea about Nissan or anything.), but of course they will cost more, if not a shitload more :v: [editline]19th June 2013[/editline] I agree with you though, in most instances you cant go wrong with OEM.[/QUOTE] I've yet to see really any wear item which is manufactured better than OEM with my Acura/Honda. A really good example for Hondas are the shit ass replacement CV axles. They hardly ever last 30k let alone the 120k or so the stocks should be good for at least, not a single aftermarket axle has the OEM rubber balancing damper which significantly dampens NVH. Cars making significantly more power wreck those cheap axles all the time, some people warranty them like every oil change... Pretty much no aftermarket balljoint/bushing holds up as long the OEM's which are usually good to 150k, only Moog comes anywhere close to quality. I hate to say things like this but the "better than OEM options" seems to be far more isolated to vehicles with poor build quality/cheap OEM components, which seems far more common among domestic vehicles compared to say German/Euro/Asian makes.. There simply are no "better than OEM" options when it comes to items like motor mounts on my Integra. Even my Beck/Arnley mounts feel a little softer and transfer a little more vibration compared to my OEM mounts. Looking to more of the "Aftermarket" community for mounts leaves you with a fucking rattlebox that has vibration drone similar to when I take off my muffler. The only alternative is if you want to pay $700-800(cheapest online dealer) for Honda OEM mounts instead of $250 for Beck/Arnley's which even use the OEM cast.. [editline]18th June 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=slayer3032;41087747]Ordering some parts from Rockauto. Here's my 5% code again, it's good til 6/30. 1462459711985506[/QUOTE] Reposting to the new page, I grabbed one off retailmenot which should be good til 8/4 incase you need one after the 30th. 1539979312616258
Got the 'stang running, man, does it feel so cool to drive. I think one of the plugs is bad and the exhaust leaks because I didnt bolt down one side too good. Burnout vids tomorrow awyeah.
Scooped out all the water in my floor panels. This Friday I'm going to give a much better look at the overall problem; luckily it was all contained to the passenger side, and even though it filled up quickly after a short rainstorm it should make it easier to find the problem area. Before I do that though today I'm working on putting a shopping list together so my buddy and I can do some work on her Friday. The engine is going to be the main focus this paycheck. I so can't wait to see the engine bay scrubbed clean of filth and grease :)
fuckfuckfuckfuckfuck Was going to do control arms on audi. Watched a vid about the uppers 2 days ago and it demonstrated using a air chizzle to a bolt because they love getting seized. I was like fuck that I have a fucking sledgehammer. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrYAAtlsjnY[/media] 1:40 air hammer action. Do I go out and get a air hammer or just keep beating the bitch with a sledgehammer? Because mine is fucking stuck.
[t]http://www.tooloutlet.fi/product_pictures/big/1162-2434-suorahiomakone_shinano_si-2012.jpg[/t]+[t]http://www.tooloutlet.fi/product_pictures/medium/2544-3819-rhodius.jpg[/t]+[t]http://images.bidorbuy.co.za/user_images/034/445034_110925162934_50449.jpg[/t]+[t]http://www.vannetukku.fi/images/motoral/50580530.jpg[/t]
I decided to re-glue the windshield then I found some rust I decided to clean everything, remove the rust, seal it and paint the whole fucking thing. We ended up spending 9h on that project. came home at 4:00 in the morning, got up at 6:00... I'm wrecked but I have a rust-free non-leaking supra again. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2pHolx4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/a7X7ysC.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/CqX0cxg.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/qkx1cmz.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/3iZh9Ql.jpg[/IMG] I don't have a picture with the windshield and trims back on but it's all done. I'm waiting 24hours before moving the car from my driveway. EDIT: oh and I also repainted my hood cowl (not visible on the pictures)
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;41112646]I decided to re-glue the windshield then I found some rust I decided to clean everything, remove the rust, seal it and paint the whole fucking thing. We ended up spending 9h on that project. came home at 4:00 in the morning, got up at 6:00... I'm wrecked but I have a rust-free non-leaking supra again. I don't have a picture with the windshield and trims back on but it's all done. I'm waiting 24hours before moving the car from my driveway.[/QUOTE] Im planning on doing that to my Wrangler windshield. Ill do it once I stop thinking about how awful its going to be. I don't like removing windshields.
It makes me want to eventually do mine, but at the same time I think I will put it off until I absolutely have to :v: How much of a pain is it? I imagine getting the glass out is the hardest part. How do you manage that? I would think the adhesive is extremely resilient; or at least I would hope so for obvious reasons.
Installed an eBay short ram intake on the Z3 yesterday. It sounds SO DAMN GOOD. Throttle response is greatly improved and it sounds absolutely gnarly. The engine snarls and spits and screams at 5k+, it's honestly terrifyingly loud.
[QUOTE=Bredirish123;41114894]It makes me want to eventually do mine, but at the same time I think I will put it off until I absolutely have to :v: How much of a pain is it? I imagine getting the glass out is the hardest part. How do you manage that? I would think the adhesive is extremely resilient; or at least I would hope so for obvious reasons.[/QUOTE] Since mine was leaking because the urethane glue wasn't bonded near the top of the windshield and the whole trim was filled with shitty silicone sealer (water stayed there because there was no where it could evacuate). Removing the windshield was a breeze, I used a small fishing rope between the frame and the windshield, slide it all the way around GENTLY. The rust removing/repainting took a shit ton of time because we did it carefully and perfectly.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;41112646]I have a rust-free non-leaking supra [/QUOTE] That's a thing?
[QUOTE=Del91;41116352]That's a thing?[/QUOTE] non-leaking targa ma70 represent. Just open the TSRM body group page already and figure it out, it's not black magic.
I need to do that same exact thing ThermalArc. Help a fellow enthusiast out! I forgot to adjust the pedal travel with the brand new clutch assembly. Now it popped through the plunger and seal and its leaking into the cabin. Too much travel, too much pressure. Welp there goes the brand new cylinder! Need a new one! :suicide:
Spent damn near $300.00 yesterday in odds n ends; feels good to have something to work on :) First thing I'm doing is draining every damn bit of that old goopy motor oil and putting in some Mobil1 High Mileage 10w-30; then I'm redoing the valve cover gasket and completely blasting the engine bay with degreaser to get her cleaning up and nice.
Ran a compression test on BANNED USERS MR2 the other day. All around 160PSI +- 2. Changed the oil as well. Car is starting to be a bit less of a problem child. Have to run some tests on the GTI this weekend as well. Its power has dropped severely in the last couple of months for some reason. Engine feels hesitant. I'l about 75% sure at least a few coil packs are on there way out. I had one up and die on me last year.
[QUOTE=Bredirish123;41125223]Mobil1 High Mileage 10w-30[/QUOTE] Ewww I ran that stuff for a while, i kept burning a quart every 350 miles Switched to Rotella T 10w30 Synthetic, now its a quart every 450-500
Speaking of oil, what's good stuff for a oldass turbodiesel engine that's located in the upper northern hemisphere?
I always thought of Rotella as Diesel engine oil. :v:
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;41122320]I need to do that same exact thing ThermalArc. Help a fellow enthusiast out! I forgot to adjust the pedal travel with the brand new clutch assembly. Now it popped through the plunger and seal and its leaking into the cabin. Too much travel, too much pressure. Welp there goes the brand new cylinder! Need a new one! :suicide:[/QUOTE] I'll help you if you promise to change avatar on a more serious note: bring it to a body shop, if water was leaking because of the windshield, rust is going to be under waiting for you. I have a friend who paints car and I was lucky to have done all the work with him. also: DON'T WAIT. DO IT ASAP. edit: Rotella = rodknock oil
[QUOTE=Tiersin;41128834]Ran a compression test on BANNED USERS MR2 the other day. All around 160PSI +- 2. Changed the oil as well. Car is starting to be a bit less of a problem child. Have to run some tests on the GTI this weekend as well. Its power has dropped severely in the last couple of months for some reason. Engine feels hesitant. I'l about 75% sure at least a few coil packs are on there way out. I had one up and die on me last year.[/QUOTE] She runs great. I re-ran the compression test on Cyl 1 because of my OCD, and indeed she is exactly at 160 PSI across the block, a finely tuned engine indeed!
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