[QUOTE=Del91;41130757]I always thought of Rotella as Diesel engine oil. :v:[/QUOTE]
Rotella is made for diesel engines, but it tends to work wonders in gas engines.. atleast Boxers, anyways.
Its got higher Zinc content, which tends to help components last longer. From what i understand, its also formulated to reduce carbon buildup more than regular oil (since diesels tend to burn a bit dirtier.)
Since its made for big, heavy duty diesels, its made to stand up to a shitton of heat and abuse
Also, what i did today;
Rear bumper started to come off on the side again. Found out we drilled into shitty fiberglass. Moved the screw to metal.
Cleaned car a little.
Installed Bosch Icon wipers.
Hopefully theyll last and work good.
I gave them a quick test, just sprayed water on my windshield. So far so good.
[QUOTE=FordLord;41133404]Rotella is made for diesel engines, but it tends to work wonders in gas engines.. atleast Boxers, anyways.
Its got higher Zinc content, which tends to help components last longer. From what i understand, its also formulated to reduce carbon buildup more than regular oil (since diesels tend to burn a bit dirtier.)
Since its made for big, heavy duty diesels, its made to stand up to a shitton of heat and abuse
Also, what i did today;
Rear bumper started to come off on the side again. Found out we drilled into shitty fiberglass. Moved the screw to metal.
Cleaned car a little.
Installed Bosch Icon wipers.
Hopefully theyll last and work good.
I gave them a quick test, just sprayed water on my windshield. So far so good.[/QUOTE]
Silly FerdLerd, diesel burns much cleaner than gasoline, way less carbon, the black shit you see coming from big redneck diesel trucks is just unburned fuel :v:
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41133635]Silly FerdLerd, diesel burns much cleaner than gasoline, way less carbon, the black shit you see coming from big redneck diesel trucks is just unburned fuel :v:[/QUOTE]
Either way, Diesel oil is still made to run tougher engines
Yeah, I'd imagine oil for a diesel would be sort of really heavy weight for a gas engine though, wouldnt it?
shit is almost like sludge :v:
dipped the gas door on my car today
[t]http://i.imgur.com/DZnQhGbh.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/JXjfcJth.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/7FuKTOah.jpg[/t]
[URL]http://imgur.com/a/ZFwqk[/URL]
Should've just shot it up quick with black paint, would last WAY longer and look nicer too
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41134093]Should've just shot it up quick with black paint, would last WAY longer and look nicer too[/QUOTE]
My rims are still good from February, and id like to remove it some day so plasti dip is perfect. I really like the textured look of it also.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41133940]Yeah, I'd imagine oil for a diesel would be sort of really heavy weight for a gas engine though, wouldnt it?
shit is almost like sludge :v:[/QUOTE]
Theres a lot of different weights, especially in Rotella. In dino oil, they primarily offer 15w40 (good for turbo diesels, heard its good in turbo Boxers too)
Synthetic has 5w40, 10w30, and 10w40.
Ive used the 5w40 and 10w30.
The 5w40 was for an ATV i had. It had a wet clutch and couldnt run regular motor oil because of it. Ran it for 5000+ miles and did great.
The 10w30 is what i run in my NA Boxer. I switched to it about 20k miles ago, when i hit 200k miles
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/RExZHqi.jpg[/IMG]
Going to do the same on my 13
So my door got stuck open, but the latch was locked.
So i had to tie the fuck out of it with rope to keep it 'shut' today. (it was pretty walmart tier.
Took the panel off and moved the linkages around and got the latch to move again (and my key works in the lock again!)
AND i found the build sheet, no one told me there would be one taped inside my door :v:
[IMG]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0309_zpsb02394a8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Clutch release bearing finally went pop. I got towed by the AA for 20 Miles on a solid tow bar like 2 feet from the rear of his van, that was an interesting experience.
So we did a full clutch replacement today. Drives really.. really nice now, No shuddering while pulling away and effortless shifting, it's like a totally different car.
Put in a new LuK Clutch kit.
The bearing looks pretty bad, half of the balls have escaped hah:
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/286964/Photos/Rikko/100CANON/IMG_1505.JPG[/img]
The pressure plate "fingers"(? For lack of a better word) are all bent out of shape too.
Changed a bunch of cluster bulbs back to regular ones.
Also restored the clusters cover;
Before;
[t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-06-22-18-56-54-799_zps47114d4e.jpg[/t]
After applying trim restore stuff;
[t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-06-22-19-01-20-579_zps159843de.jpg[/t]
Installed (not fully dried)
[t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-06-22-19-20-15-779_zpsa715ad44.jpg[/t]
Ignition on;
[t]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff136/fcfordlord/C360_2013-06-22-19-20-45-935_zpsad2e7d7f.jpg[/t]
Much better, imo
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;41131314]
edit: Rotella = rodknock oil[/QUOTE]
You have to be joking me, yeah if you are supposed to be running 0w-25 but otherwise no.
[editline]22nd June 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=FordLord;41133404]Rotella is made for diesel engines, but it tends to work wonders in gas engines.. atleast Boxers, anyways.
Its got higher Zinc content, which tends to help components last longer. From what i understand, its also formulated to reduce carbon buildup more than regular oil (since diesels tend to burn a bit dirtier.)
Since its made for big, heavy duty diesels, its made to stand up to a shitton of heat and abuse
[/QUOTE]
A lot of the volvo people run this oil with absolutely no issues. The tractor style redblocks, the inline 6 whiteblocks and the inline 5 whiteblocks.
[editline]22nd June 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=FordLord;41134226]Theres a lot of different weights, especially in Rotella. In dino oil, they primarily offer 15w40 (good for turbo diesels, heard its good in turbo Boxers too)
Synthetic has 5w40, 10w30, and 10w40.
Ive used the 5w40 and 10w30.
The 5w40 was for an ATV i had. It had a wet clutch and couldnt run regular motor oil because of it. Ran it for 5000+ miles and did great.
The 10w30 is what i run in my NA Boxer. I switched to it about 20k miles ago, when i hit 200k miles[/QUOTE]
I am going to run 5w40 rotella on my next oil change. The car is meant to run 10w30 but a lot of people run 10 or 15w40 here with no issues. If I run out of rotella, i'll top the rest off with my castrol 10w30 synthetic.
Or don't know, Might just run half 10w30 synthetic and half 5w40 rotella.
Btw my rotella is synthetic.
Changed the thermostat in a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM.
Made 60 bux.
What the fuck got into GM to think that putting the thermostat behind the exhaust manifold is well beyond me, it's just poor design. What ever, took 2 hours.
[QUOTE=Siminov;41146757]You have to be joking me, yeah if you are supposed to be running 0w-25 but otherwise no.
[editline]22nd June 2013[/editline]
A lot of the volvo people run this oil with absolutely no issues. The tractor style redblocks, the inline 6 whiteblocks and the inline 5 whiteblocks.[/QUOTE]
Apparently I can't get Shell Rotella here in northern Europe.
And holy tittyfucking christ on a cracker, Castrol Edge 5W/40 TD is fucking expensive.
Well, yesterday I got the doors off of my coronet, and almost dropped one on the ground :v:
Good thing it was the one with broken internals, shitty glass, and alot of rot and dents, because I wouldnt have cared if I actually did drop it! I also pulled all of the parts that I had strewn about in my garage and put them in my driveway for inventory + organization:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/2013-06-21%2014.26.34.jpg[/t]
Garage is much cleaner without them:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/2013-06-21%2015.29.28.jpg[/t]
Then today me and my mom cleaned and organized some shit in the garage, aaannnd now I have to put back all of my shit but w/e worth it:
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/2013-06-22%2016.40.44.jpg[/t]
[editline]23rd June 2013[/editline]
Also fuck I really need an engine stand, the fucking 440 is so awkward right there.
So I finally got started on trying to clean up the battery bay on my 7 series...
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img838/2388/lug7.jpg[/IMG]
Oh.
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img13/3779/kryb.jpg[/IMG]
Ohhhhh...
[IMG]http://stockfresh.com/files/p/photography33/m/27/1797094_stock-photo-furious-man-screaming-in-front-of-his-laptop.jpg[/IMG]
WHY CAN'T PEOPLE JUST TAKE CARE OF THEIR CARS!?!
Christ, you'd think if you owned a car that cost almost a quarter of a million dollars, you'd at LEAST have the decency to clean up obvious dangers like this when it happens? After cleaning it up to this stage, I would guess that probably 2 years or so before I came into ownership of the car, some idiot installed an inadequate battery and neglected to connect the vent tube - end result... overflow, acid, etc etc, and a major backache for me.
May yet have to cut the mounting plates out and sand the entire bay down for a re-coat, which is NOT going to be an easy, enjoyable or cheap job :(
*edit* For anyone interested, this is what it looked like before I got started, big globs of what is probably sulphate or acid corrosion, foulest smelling shit ever, honestly;
[IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6894/batterybay.jpg[/IMG]
AGM's is the way I roll.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ugNzzI9l.jpg[/IMG]
Got the SRS light to go out on the Accord, just needed to be reset. :v:
Lets hope it stays out.
I need to figure out how to properly tune my carb. I can't get it to idle below 1000rpm with the idle adjuster screw and the rpm starts to search as soon as I get it a little below 1k. I guess I might have a vacuum leak somewhere, I've never replaced vacuum hoses before, how do I figure out the proper size hose? Also is my rpm supposed to drop like 500rpm when I turn on my AC?
Put the transmission in the car. Went to go put the clutch cable on, and found out that the clutch fork is busted. Well, that was an hour wasted, time to go order one tomorrow :/
Well a bunch of stuff.
Main bit of it was swapping the alternator, replacing the alternator mount bushings and finally since all the stuff is off, install the oil cooler.
Yesterday, took the alternator out including its mount. Got the final piece I needed to install the oil cooler lines, the bracket that holds the lines to the engine and finally got some more parts from the yard to list on ebay.
Larger old 80A alternator.
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005716_661179310563413_86152821_n.jpg[/img]
Newer Smaller 100A alternator.
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/21357_661179303896747_1279586576_n.jpg[/img]
Alternator bushings are go
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1010280_661179323896745_904656317_n.jpg[/img]
All the stuff off.
[img]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1017214_661179373896740_11212897_n.jpg[/img]
TODAY
It was interesting, got both alts tested. Old one failed on the final test which I forgot why. I guess the voltage drop when hot and under heavy load would do it.
Second one the guy pulled a fast one on me, he hooked it up wrong to begin with and I didn't stop him. They have the same connections too. He couldn't get voltage to come off of that one and proceeded to sell me another alternator.
Went another place and it passed just fine because the guy knew how to hook up 3 wires.
Now there is one thing that made me hate this car more than anything.
It's a stud but not just any stud. An oil filter stud. It had to be removed because I was installing a sandwich plate to run the oil cooler feed and return.
That was what I had to install, what was in the block was smaller.
[img]http://brickwalla.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/hollow_stud.jpg[/img]
My father fought with it for about an hour and gave up. Of course telling me that I was an idiot for doing this and I fucked my car over. Great....
I went through a pipe wrench, channel locks and vice grips. I almost broke them it was that horrible. So finally about to give up, I found out that if you use a hammer, it will unseat the stud from the block after 24 years. Sure enough it came out like that.
Here is what was left of it
[img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1009936_661711237176887_1660274987_n.jpg[/img]
This is what I thought of it
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421836_661711240510220_2054789637_n.jpg[/img]
So otherwise got this done
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/988491_661711303843547_1308688587_n.jpg[/img]
Don't worry, im not running that cheap chinese shit filter at all, had to size it because the oil return I made for the turbo wont work, it is going straight out and the line is hitting the oil cooler lines and now the oil filter. I did not prepare for unforseen consequences but that can be solved by a 5/8 45 deg elbow.
Installed the cooler
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1012109_661711233843554_1000522283_n.jpg[/img]
Installed the lines
[img]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1016162_661711307176880_386404262_n.jpg[/img]
And that's the end of day 2
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002805_661711330510211_2093490457_n.jpg[/img]
I went and changed the clutch master cylinder on the girlfriend's 13 this afternoon.
Turns out that Sanyco unit failed way long before the clutch change. Replaced with an Autozone unit for now. Works fine. Remember to bleed your hydraulics properly and don't buy Sanyco gents
[QUOTE=Llamaboy9;41160533]I need to figure out how to properly tune my carb. I can't get it to idle below 1000rpm with the idle adjuster screw and the rpm starts to search as soon as I get it a little below 1k. I guess I might have a vacuum leak somewhere, I've never replaced vacuum hoses before, how do I figure out the proper size hose? Also is my rpm supposed to drop like 500rpm when I turn on my AC?[/QUOTE]
Does your idle bounce or is it a constant rpm i don't know much about carbs but on the intake there is this rubber hose that goes to air control valve i do believe that is often troublesome. also check the shutter valve It is the 1/2 inch hose that runs from your air cleaner to the shutter valve diaphragm at the base of the carb. Pull the top off your air cleaner, stick your finger over the hole for that hose, and if you feel any suction at all, then its shot. Also your ac shouldn't drop your idle that dramatically in my SE it the idle actually goes up a slight amount.
Found out that the past dingus owners of the mustang put a 56oz flywheel on when the engine requires a neutral balance, easy fix but annoying since we just threw the other trans in. Will be easier this time around as we are putting it on the car lift.
Bonus pic
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/null_zps50ea7b4c.jpg[/thumb]
Did quite a bit this weekend on my Jeep.
Changed sparkplugs
Changed Wireset
New Thermostat & Gasket
New Valve Cover Gasket (Yay, no more oil leaking into sparkplugs!)
Oil and filter change
Air intake cleaned, degreased and filter replaced
Thermostat housing degreased and cleaned up like new
Throttle body degreased, cleaned, and lubricated.
Then finally I did a seafoam treatment to the intake, oil, and gas tank. It was hilarious watching a huge plume of white exhaust explode out the back end. After a good ten minute of it circulating it cleared a lot up. My Jeep now starts like new; and it shuts down nice and smoothly whereas before it would sort of chatter out. Even the idling is stabler.
All in all I would say it was a good successful weekend; now I just hope when I take her to get emissions tested she'll pass the NOx tests.
[QUOTE=Metallica;41162180]Does your idle bounce or is it a constant rpm i don't know much about carbs but on the intake there is this rubber hose that goes to air control valve i do believe that is often troublesome. also check the shutter valve It is the 1/2 inch hose that runs from your air cleaner to the shutter valve diaphragm at the base of the carb. Pull the top off your air cleaner, stick your finger over the hole for that hose, and if you feel any suction at all, then its shot. Also your ac shouldn't drop your idle that dramatically in my SE it the idle actually goes up a slight amount.[/QUOTE]
Thanks! I have it tuned to where it's constant at about 1,100-1,200rpm at the moment. I'll check those hoses, pretty much everything in my GS is original so I figure I'm going to need to slowly start replacing vacuum lines. I'm wondering if the AC problem has something to do with my carb not compensating for the AC being turned on. EFI cars have a booster solenoid or something right? I wonder if my RX7 has any sort of equivalent.
Edit: Found mention of a throttle opener which is supposed to open the throttle a little to compensate for the compressor load, I'm guessing that's dead or I have a leak around there.
Changed the oil in the GTI yesterday and started on a compression test. Got to the #2 cylinder and it read 40psi....initiate freak out mode.
Turns out the o-ring on the compression tester fell apart, so it wasn't holing any pressure at all. Gonna get a new o-ring and recheck it later. Also basically EVERY one of my coilpacks has rust on it. Expecting those to start failing on me any time now. I should really pick a few up so I can replace them as they go. Fortunately they are not nearly as [URL="http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2003-Volkswagen-Golf-GTI/Ignition-Coil/_/N-jktdqZ9n80r"]expensive[/URL] as I was lead to believe.
[QUOTE=Tiersin;41168399]Changed the oil in the GTI yesterday and started on a compression test. Got to the #2 cylinder and it read 40psi....initiate freak out mode.
Turns out the o-ring on the compression tester fell apart, so it wasn't holing any pressure at all. Gonna get a new o-ring and recheck it later. Also basically EVERY one of my coilpacks has rust on it. Expecting those to start failing on me any time now. I should really pick a few up so I can replace them as they go. Fortunately they are not nearly as [URL="http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2003-Volkswagen-Golf-GTI/Ignition-Coil/_/N-jktdqZ9n80r"]expensive[/URL] as I was lead to believe.[/QUOTE]
For the love of god no. DO NOT GET PARTS STORE COILS
Unless you wanna keep like two or three with you....
Please please please please please buy OEM its only 100$ from ecs tuning for a set of 4 wile those are 128$ for a set of 4 and cheap shit.
[editline]fgzfg[/editline]
Here I think I selected the right engine...
[url]http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Ignition/ES1876879/[/url]
Their red too to increase HP!
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