[QUOTE=Alec W;39802835]Washed, waxed, and polished my turd.
[t]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/541053_10200684652909555_1098294066_n.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Not in that order, I hope. D:
Systems stabilized in my girlfriend's S13. Power steering is operational. Coolant level and system working proper.
But there's leaks everywhere. Oil pan is just pouring on the seal. The transmission is leaking from the plug too
Added tint over my high beam dash light, decided to add the tint over blinker lights too. At night they were too bright. I think i ended up using 20% tint and it was still fairly bright in the daylight. I havent tried them in direct sunlight though.
Also added a bulb to my low fuel light on my gauge cluster, but i cant get it to light up at all. I know for sure the bulb and socket works, idk why it wont light up unless the only time itll ever light up is when the gas is low.
Edit;
Researched, itll only come on when gas is almost out. It wont come on with the other dash lights
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39824028]Systems stabilized in my girlfriend's S13. Power steering is operational. Coolant level and system working proper.
But there's leaks everywhere. Oil pan is just pouring on the seal. The transmission is leaking from the plug too[/QUOTE]
keep at it man
this ranger has a really bad exhaust leak. I think this is what they used to kill the jews.
Went to the junkyard to see about getting a new tps. I found one, but it tested out the same as my old tps. Decided to just spend $29 and order a new one from ebay.
I think my tps is the issue for sure. Just adjusting the tps changes the issue completely
[QUOTE=FordLord;39835272]Went to the junkyard to see about getting a new tps. I found one, but it tested out the same as my old tps. Decided to just spend $29 and order a new one from ebay.
I think my tps is the issue for sure. Just adjusting the tps changes the issue completely[/QUOTE]
Whats your vehicle again? My roommates Wagovan had a seemingly permanent issue with the tps, I couldn't get it to stop idle hunting and messing with the tps stopped it for a moment then it'd start up again. Stupid sensors...
My car is a 1999 Subaru Impreza.
To give you an idea of my original problem;
Running rich
Low power sometimes
If i blip the throttle while idling, the rpms would drop to 500 or so and pick back up.
FSM says voltage should be 0.45-55 closed throttle, 4.2-4.7 fully open. Mine was 0.6 closed and 3.9 open.
When testing resistence, at 3/4 throttle the resistence starts dropping.
I adjusted the tps to 0.5v closed and 3.8v open.
Now the blip/idle drop issue is solved
Still running rich but not quite as bad
Still lacks power at some points, but no where near as bad.
My thoughts are that only getting 3.8v on the top end makes the ecu think the throttle is open at a different % and it adds the wrong amount of fuel. But i ordered a new tps and its supposed to be here Tuesday, so ill be sure to do a bunch of tests before i even run my car using it to compare it to my old one
Swapped out my 16 year old fuel filter in the '7. Not as bad as I thought - a bit blocked and fair bit of sooty stuff came out the inlet side, but overall not as bad as some of the horror stories I've read online.
Which means I'm most likely looking at my occasional rough start being a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. Not a big deal as it's an easy thing to replace on my car, but at $100 compared to the $20 fuel filter, it's pretty obvious what I was going to sort out first. It'll be nice to just start the car smooth as silk again :)
[QUOTE=Gulen;39804977]What does it do/what difference does it make?[/QUOTE]
Points are a mechanical system that basically has two contacts that need to be fucked with every 10,000 miles, and slowly get worse when coming to the point of readjustment or changing. Your fuel mileage goes down, the timing is thrown off, you can have a missfire at idle. Basically an ineffecitent system of the past. The electronic ignition removes the points and uses the stock location in the dizzy to use (insert how electronic ignition works here). The kit I used allows you to turn your old dizzy into a modern dizzy, so it still looks old school when you look at it.
Gutted the cat in the camaro, makes it sound more raspy.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;39839739]Gutted the cat in the camaro, makes it sound more raspy.[/QUOTE]
Replace it with a resonator? Might sort out the rasp...
If you do any more exhaust shit on that maro' try out having it dump before the rear tire, shorter exhaust does wonders to the tone.
[QUOTE=FordLord;39837125]My car is a 1999 Subaru Impreza.
To give you an idea of my original problem;
Running rich
Low power sometimes
If i blip the throttle while idling, the rpms would drop to 500 or so and pick back up.
FSM says voltage should be 0.45-55 closed throttle, 4.2-4.7 fully open. Mine was 0.6 closed and 3.9 open.
When testing resistence, at 3/4 throttle the resistence starts dropping.
I adjusted the tps to 0.5v closed and 3.8v open.
Now the blip/idle drop issue is solved
Still running rich but not quite as bad
Still lacks power at some points, but no where near as bad.
My thoughts are that only getting 3.8v on the top end makes the ecu think the throttle is open at a different % and it adds the wrong amount of fuel. But i ordered a new tps and its supposed to be here Tuesday, so ill be sure to do a bunch of tests before i even run my car using it to compare it to my old one[/QUOTE]
I think that if the tps voltage isn't like spazzing out or anything that it might not be your problem... I had a tps issue on my sentra (would idle way high sometimes and randomly start hesitating/bucking under light throttle), ordered a new tps and it did the same thing. It ended up being a shitty ground so the ecu was reading higher voltage than it actually was, hacked off the old harness ground and just ran a wire straight to where the ecu grounds on the intake manifold and it's been running perfectly ever since. Couldn't hurt to check for resistance/voltage between the tps ground and battery ground
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;39841437]I think that if the tps voltage isn't like spazzing out or anything that it might not be your problem... I had a tps issue on my sentra (would idle way high sometimes and randomly start hesitating/bucking under light throttle), ordered a new tps and it did the same thing. It ended up being a shitty ground so the ecu was reading higher voltage than it actually was, hacked off the old harness ground and just ran a wire straight to where the ecu grounds on the intake manifold and it's been running perfectly ever since. Couldn't hurt to check for resistance/voltage between the tps ground and battery ground[/QUOTE]
The voltage does spaz out a tad when the car is running. At idle, sometimes itll hover right in the .45-.55 area just fine. But if i monitor it for a bit, itll have random drops and spikes, everywhere from .38-.58. Before adjusting, the voltage was crazy and all over. Now its not as bad, but still not quite right.
I tested the 5v going in, its right at 5v and stays there. I tested the ground and it appears to be good.
just gonna leave this here:
[url]http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm[/url]
[QUOTE=FordLord;39841832]The voltage does spaz out a tad when the car is running. At idle, sometimes itll hover right in the .45-.55 area just fine. But if i monitor it for a bit, itll have random drops and spikes, everywhere from .38-.58. Before adjusting, the voltage was crazy and all over. Now its not as bad, but still not quite right.
I tested the 5v going in, its right at 5v and stays there. I tested the ground and it appears to be good.[/QUOTE]
In that case I would agree with your previous thought process, lol
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;39839739]Gutted the cat in the camaro, makes it sound more raspy.[/QUOTE]
Is your maro 3800 powered? If so 3800 always sounds like crap, the only way to make them sound good is by putting true duals under.
True duals on a 4th gen fbody?
Haha.
[QUOTE=Concur;39845831]True duals on a 4th gen fbody?
Haha.[/QUOTE]
Its been done. And it's the only way to make 3.8 sound fine.
Working on designing an exhaust.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/DXrSyjd.png[/IMG]
Not [I]too[/I] crazy, right? Thinking of adding a cat either at the back or after the first cutout. Not going to intercool, going to go with Brad's Method, cheap $100 Garrett T3/T4 off eBay.
Turbocharger isolated with intake to rear-passenger-side window, in cabin, or under floor?
What program is that?
[QUOTE=teslacoil;39846520]Working on designing an exhaust. Not [i]too[/i] crazy, right?[/QUOTE]
Not a big fan of the split "Y" exhausts. I like resonators/collectors in the merging point
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;39846547]What program is that?[/QUOTE]
AutoCAD 2013.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39846596]Not a big fan of the split "Y" exhausts. I like resonators/collectors in the merging point[/QUOTE]
Would a resonator on each side before the split increase exhaust pull or better the sound?
Should piping after the turbocharger be a smaller diameter than the rest? Currently everything is 2.5"
Reading a lot about exhaust theory, trying to take everything I read into consideration.
Yes it does have a 3800, if i had the materials i would make it true duals but only have it go as long as it has to be for it to work, dont like having exhaust dump out the back and it would be a bitch to make.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;39846615]AutoCAD 2013.
Would a resonator on each side before the split increase exhaust pull or better the sound?
Should piping after the turbocharger be a smaller diameter than the rest? Currently everything is 2.5"
Reading a lot about exhaust theory, trying to take everything I read into consideration.[/QUOTE]
What you SHOULD do is buy two ebay turbos, not make them remote, dont use a cat, and buy a cheapy intercooler so you actually make power instead of making [i]some[/i] power. twin, non-remote, intercooled turbos will give you a lot better power and much less lag, while only hurting your wallet a little in comparison to the amount of power you'll get.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;39848408]What you SHOULD do is buy two ebay turbos, not make them remote, dont use a cat, and buy a cheapy intercooler so you actually make power instead of making [I]some[/I] power. twin, non-remote, intercooled turbos will give you a lot better power and much less lag, while only hurting your wallet a little in comparison to the amount of power you'll get.[/QUOTE]
With the exhaust dumps, I don't have to worry about lag. I'd rather stay with a single turbo, I'm not trying to make oodles of power, but a small ebay turbo in place of a muffler or cat will add [I]some[/I] power while lessening the exhaust noise, instead of only restricting it. I can always add an intercooler later if I'm not satisfied.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;39848560]With the exhaust dumps, I don't have to worry about lag. I'd rather stay with a single turbo, I'm not trying to make oodles of power, but a small ebay turbo in place of a muffler or cat will add [I]some[/I] power while lessening the exhaust noise, instead of only restricting it. I can always add an intercooler later if I'm not satisfied.[/QUOTE]
Uhhh with the exhaust cutouts, that will COMEPLETELY murder your boost, not improve the lag time. Anytime you have THAT MUCH tubing between the exhaust and the turbo, and then the turbo and the engines intake, your going to have oodles of lag. Plus without an intercooler, you'll probably melt an ebay turbo, or shorten its life a ton.
[editline]9th March 2013[/editline]
Plus with a single turbo, you only get a super restrictive single exhaust compared to duals with a TT setup, which will actually let the LS3 breathe
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;39847072]Yes it does have a 3800, if i had the materials i would make it true duals but only have it go as long as it has to be for it to work, dont like having exhaust dump out the back and it would be a bitch to make.[/QUOTE]
If you don't want to make it true dual, but want to get rid of a bit of rasp get the BIGGEST Glasspack you can find and replace whatever is in place of a resonator under it with it.
3800 sounds like ass and are immensely raspy without resonators/glasspack before the mufflers.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;39848979]Uhhh with the exhaust cutouts, that will COMEPLETELY murder your boost, not improve the lag time. Anytime you have THAT MUCH tubing between the exhaust and the turbo, and then the turbo and the engines intake, your going to have oodles of lag. Plus without an intercooler, you'll probably melt an ebay turbo, or shorten its life a ton.
[editline]9th March 2013[/editline]
Plus with a single turbo, you only get a super restrictive single exhaust compared to duals with a TT setup, which will actually let the LS3 breathe[/QUOTE]
Alright. I see I was a little over my head with forced induction. Esp. after talking to brad about it.
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