• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Leaf springs and shocks installed in the rear of the truck. It's so nice to see it sitting kinda normal. Old differential cover in the back cracked and needs to be replaced, gonna see what autozone has. If they don't have it, back to rockauto then.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;41168587]For the love of god no. DO NOT GET PARTS STORE COILS Unless you wanna keep like two or three with you.... Please please please please please buy OEM its only 100$ from ecs tuning for a set of 4 wile those are 128$ for a set of 4 and cheap shit. [editline]fgzfg[/editline] Here I think I selected the right engine... [URL]http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Ignition/ES1876879/[/URL] Their red too to increase HP![/QUOTE] Those are for the 1.8T, I've got a VR6. Most of the issues, both OEM and non-OEM, seems to come from corrosion. I've been running one for roughly 10k with no problems. Being in Colorado, most moisture/corrosion problems are not a big deal. Totally agree that OEM >>>> 3rd party but having a few on hand is nice to keep the car running.
[QUOTE=Llamaboy9;41167112]Thanks! I have it tuned to where it's constant at about 1,100-1,200rpm at the moment. I'll check those hoses, pretty much everything in my GS is original so I figure I'm going to need to slowly start replacing vacuum lines. I'm wondering if the AC problem has something to do with my carb not compensating for the AC being turned on. EFI cars have a booster solenoid or something right? I wonder if my RX7 has any sort of equivalent. Edit: Found mention of a throttle opener which is supposed to open the throttle a little to compensate for the compressor load, I'm guessing that's dead or I have a leak around there.[/QUOTE] From what i have read blocking off that shutter valve hose is a good thing when it has a problem or not. and on my car it has this thing called a BAC valve i have no clue if the carbed ones have it but i don't think they do and its an often culprit for bouncing idle which is when it goes from like 1000 rpm to 2000 or so.
Tightened my AC belt again, hopefully its nearly done breaking in. Checked oil, was a little low so i added 3/4qt or so. Brake caliper hasnt stuck again yet, so hopefully its good.
Car is all done [img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/946229_662188750462469_962583015_n.jpg[/img] [img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1010664_662188717129139_327921530_n.jpg[/img] Well sort of... I have an oil leak from either one of the banjo bolts or the whole sandwich plate, which means ill have to take the oil filter off (god help me) and tighten the sandwich plate. That is it though, seems like the oil cooler works and that is the only leak, new alternator works really well and holds 14 volts. I haven't given it a drive yet but I will wrap everything up tomorrow I hope.
So I recently bought a 2010 crown vic. The dealer selling it pretty much knew nothing about it, it was one of the many tiny-ass cealerships in chicago. They knew it had been a police car at some point and a taxi for a year and 5 months. The yellow paint job was really shitty and still had overspray on all the plastic and rubber. They put a fresh black coat of paint on it before it was sold to the dealership. Anyways, in 3 years it managed to rack up 165,860 miles. I found that a little hard to believe, even as a cop car and taxi. I didnt question it because I was getting it for 2176 bucks and I knew there had to be something wrong with it, but I like a challenge. On the way driving back, I noticed the instrument panel lights flickered occasionally and would flicker again to a solid smack on the dashboard, So Im thinking bad connection. I also thought it was wierd how the speedometer was kph primarily, and had mph on the small inner ring. That didnt seem too practical for a cop car. [IMG]http://i.imgbox.com/adrMzndp.jpg[/IMG] So today I get off work, come home, and start tearing apart the dash. I get to the IP and when I pull it out, I see some of the plastic clips are bent/broke, and the side of the IP has "165k" written on it. This seems to tell me that the IP was replaced, and my car probably has much less miles on it. Also, coincedentally, all the wires to the anti-theft module have been cut. Good thing the VIN numbers match up or I might start thinking that I bought a stolen car.
That's awesome, is there any way to confirm the real mileage on the car? On our 7 series cars, you can hook it up to your diagnostic software and pull the REAL mileage from the light control module - anything like that on a Crown Vic? I got sick and tired of seeing the moronic costs involved with 'automotive LED worklamps' - they're all about $100 for a little rechargeable light wand with poxy 3528 LED's from reputable high spec brands and only go for a couple of hours before needing a recharge, in other words a big ripoff. A good friend of mine who lets me use his lift spent $200 for two of these things, and within a month or so one of them just fell apart and they don't cover it under warranty. So I told him I could build him a much better worklamp in every way for less than half that... challenge accepted. [IMG]http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5411/sgkd.jpg[/IMG] $38. 9 x 5050 SMD LED's, 15+ hours of continuous use, VERY durable, totally modular (can run any 12v accessory you like), and I can use any size, shape or colour of LED needed. Best part is, if anything ever brakes on it, it's a 5 minute job to replace any given part. This was my first prototype so it's a bit ridgy didge on the build quality, however I now have 3 people lined up and prepared to hand over money after seeing it in action so I plan to tweak the design considerably and cut costs even more. I have now used this prototype for almost 6 hours straight since receiving it working on my Jeep and BMW, no recharge yet, and it's been an absolute godsend - it'll light up the entire engine bay easy as, and I've attached rare earth magnets on the backside of both the wand and housing so you can mount this thing ANYWHERE. I can't stop using the bloody thing :P
[QUOTE=Birdman101;41173220]So I recently bought a 2010 crown vic. The dealer selling it pretty much knew nothing about it, it was one of the many tiny-ass cealerships in chicago. They knew it had been a police car at some point and a taxi for a year and 5 months. The yellow paint job was really shitty and still had overspray on all the plastic and rubber. They put a fresh black coat of paint on it before it was sold to the dealership. Anyways, in 3 years it managed to rack up 165,860 miles. I found that a little hard to believe, even as a cop car and taxi. I didnt question it because I was getting it for 2176 bucks and I knew there had to be something wrong with it, but I like a challenge. On the way driving back, I noticed the instrument panel lights flickered occasionally and would flicker again to a solid smack on the dashboard, So Im thinking bad connection. I also thought it was wierd how the speedometer was kph primarily, and had mph on the small inner ring. That didnt seem too practical for a cop car. So today I get off work, come home, and start tearing apart the dash. I get to the IP and when I pull it out, I see some of the plastic clips are bent/broke, and the side of the IP has "165k" written on it. This seems to tell me that the IP was replaced, and my car probably has much less miles on it. Also, coincedentally, all the wires to the anti-theft module have been cut. Good thing the VIN numbers match up or I might start thinking that I bought a stolen car.[/QUOTE] What you can do is post the VIN, or PM it to me, and i can run an autocheck. It should show the last reported mileage and other things
Fuck my Audi and its fucking bolts that require a fucking cutting torch. FUUCKK [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Audi/2013-06-24%2022.17.29.jpg[/t] Anyways one side is done and now to do the other side. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Audi/2013-06-24%2022.20.28.jpg[/t] Pile of destruction.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;41174687]That's awesome, is there any way to confirm the real mileage on the car? On our 7 series cars, you can hook it up to your diagnostic software and pull the REAL mileage from the light control module - anything like that on a Crown Vic? [/QUOTE] I got no clue. From what I've seen so far, the miles are recorded in the odometer. I wouldn't be surprised if the computer kept track of it too, but I dont have anything to plug into it and see. Im thinking of buying an Xcalibrator 2 so I can do a little tuning on the vic, plus my buddy just bought an F250 XL turbodiesel we could play around with a bit. For now, Its Schrodinger's Vic. It could be low miles, or it could be high miles, and until I see any evidence either way it is both. This baby's got quantum mileage. Tomorrow Im gonna see if the local salvage yard has any of the new style vic IPs and also track down why the fan doesnt work. It worked on the way back, but now I have a black car with no AC in a midwest summer. Theres also a hole in the firewall I gotta plug where they were running some extra wires. Also hopefully I can find a Haynes or Chilton book for the Police Interceptor version. Theres so much extra wiring in this thing I don't even. [editline]24th June 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=FordLord;41175027]What you can do is post the VIN, or PM it to me, and i can run an autocheck. It should show the last reported mileage and other things[/QUOTE] Sure 2FABP7BV0AX103658 Not sure about that first 0 it might be an O
[QUOTE=Sobek-;41174687]That's awesome, is there any way to confirm the real mileage on the car? On our 7 series cars, you can hook it up to your diagnostic software and pull the REAL mileage from the light control module - anything like that on a Crown Vic? I got sick and tired of seeing the moronic costs involved with 'automotive LED worklamps' - they're all about $100 for a little rechargeable light wand with poxy 3528 LED's from reputable high spec brands and only go for a couple of hours before needing a recharge, in other words a big ripoff. A good friend of mine who lets me use his lift spent $200 for two of these things, and within a month or so one of them just fell apart and they don't cover it under warranty. So I told him I could build him a much better worklamp in every way for less than half that... challenge accepted. -image- $38. 9 x 5050 SMD LED's, 15+ hours of continuous use, VERY durable, totally modular (can run any 12v accessory you like), and I can use any size, shape or colour of LED needed. Best part is, if anything ever brakes on it, it's a 5 minute job to replace any given part. This was my first prototype so it's a bit ridgy didge on the build quality, however I now have 3 people lined up and prepared to hand over money after seeing it in action so I plan to tweak the design considerably and cut costs even more. I have now used this prototype for almost 6 hours straight since receiving it working on my Jeep and BMW, no recharge yet, and it's been an absolute godsend - it'll light up the entire engine bay easy as, and I've attached rare earth magnets on the backside of both the wand and housing so you can mount this thing ANYWHERE. I can't stop using the bloody thing :P[/QUOTE] That's awesome. I'd be a little nervous about having exposed solder points that could short out if you dropped it on something metal, you could probably fit the whole thing into like a clear plastic pvc pipe with end caps and just have a power port in one end... you could even make it waterproof that way so you can just wash it off when it inevitably gets dirty working in an engine bay lol
" IMPORTED TO THE US / VEHICLE ORIGINALLY MANUFACTURED FOR NON US MARKET " This would explain your gauge cluster. Looks like you have a Canadian car, so your mileage is in KM I assume. Would come to about 105k miles. Put your VIN in here [url]http://www.geniusvin.com/[/url]
[QUOTE=Sobek-;41174687] $38. 9 x 5050 SMD LED's, 15+ hours of continuous use, VERY durable, totally modular (can run any 12v accessory you like), and I can use any size, shape or colour of LED needed. Best part is, if anything ever brakes on it, it's a 5 minute job to replace any given part. This was my first prototype so it's a bit ridgy didge on the build quality, however I now have 3 people lined up and prepared to hand over money after seeing it in action so I plan to tweak the design considerably and cut costs even more. I have now used this prototype for almost 6 hours straight since receiving it working on my Jeep and BMW, no recharge yet, and it's been an absolute godsend - it'll light up the entire engine bay easy as, and I've attached rare earth magnets on the backside of both the wand and housing so you can mount this thing ANYWHERE. I can't stop using the bloody thing :P[/QUOTE] You ship interstate? An unrelated question to those engine more engine savvy than me, would I be able to run coil packs (COPS) on a carbureted engine? Or would EFI need to be installed, or should I go electronic ignition?
Apparently the 06+ standard non-message center clusters fail. [url]http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2610469[/url] [url]http://www.cvpi.org/archives/p71interceptor/misc/06clusters/wsdindex.html[/url] It's really unknown how many miles it has, it could have just about any. I see 2011 models with way more miles for sale on the internet.
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;41175844]That's awesome. I'd be a little nervous about having exposed solder points that could short out if you dropped it on something metal, you could probably fit the whole thing into like a clear plastic pvc pipe with end caps and just have a power port in one end... you could even make it waterproof that way so you can just wash it off when it inevitably gets dirty working in an engine bay lol[/QUOTE] Ahh, no solder joints at all! The way I've gone about it, everything uses female/male DC connectors or clamp-adaptors (such as for the LED wand which you can see wrapped in electrical tape) so it's all very sturdy and practically impossible to damage - I've had solder joins come apart from significant shock before, but that won't happen here and it's also all secured with rubber nubs inside the casing to absorb any shocks. Unfortunately the rectangular hobby box you see is literally as small as I can possibly go given the battery size and internal wiring configuration - I actually had to cut out some bits inside just to get everything to fit perfectly, but it's damn near perfect as-is and the whole thing fits in your hand easily. I want to make the charging cable click down into a recessed hole, and the DC connection for the light wand will probably wind up being shifted internally so it's permanent and rigid. I figure anyone who uses it will really only use one kind of light anyway so why leave that open to potentially take damage or loosen over time... [QUOTE=Jimmaye;41176553]You ship interstate?[/QUOTE] I really would. At the end of the day you can always order the same parts yourself if you want to give it a go, it's remarkably un-complicated :)
Wrapped up my engine bay yesterday. The intake is on, all the wiring done, spark plug wires all ran, etc. Put a good 7 hours of work into it. As soon as my clutch fork comes in, Ill have the car running within 2 hours. It's been fucking two years of problem after problem with this car, I can't wait to see the fucker run.
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;41176553]You ship interstate? An unrelated question to those engine more engine savvy than me, would I be able to run coil packs (COPS) on a carbureted engine? Or would EFI need to be installed, or should I go electronic ignition?[/QUOTE] My suggestion would be to go HEI or MSD for carburated. Conversion to EFI can cost alot and just getting an HEI dizy or MSD ignition kit would quite a bit less. You could also get a combo of the two [url=http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Ignition-Systems/MSD-HEI-Distributor-Upgrade-Kit/_Item/_470100001?utm_source=google&utm_medium=Ignition-Systems&utm_campaign=GoogleProducts&utm_term=MSD-HEI-Distributor-Upgrade-Kit&gclid=COOgpaG7_7cCFVBp7Aod9AwALw]Like this[/url] if it'll work for you. What is it you drive anyway?
[QUOTE=Metallica;41169411]From what i have read blocking off that shutter valve hose is a good thing when it has a problem or not. and on my car it has this thing called a BAC valve i have no clue if the carbed ones have it but i don't think they do and its an often culprit for bouncing idle which is when it goes from like 1000 rpm to 2000 or so.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I'm going to go ahead an plug it tonight, it's sucking air at idle. Guess I need to make I set it right first so that the rear valve stays open. I read something earlier about high mileage rear housings/rotors being terrible compared to the front and the shutter valve might be the culprit.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;41174687]That's awesome, is there any way to confirm the real mileage on the car? On our 7 series cars, you can hook it up to your diagnostic software and pull the REAL mileage from the light control module - anything like that on a Crown Vic? I got sick and tired of seeing the moronic costs involved with 'automotive LED worklamps' - they're all about $100 for a little rechargeable light wand with poxy 3528 LED's from reputable high spec brands and only go for a couple of hours before needing a recharge, in other words a big ripoff. A good friend of mine who lets me use his lift spent $200 for two of these things, and within a month or so one of them just fell apart and they don't cover it under warranty. So I told him I could build him a much better worklamp in every way for less than half that... challenge accepted. [IMG]http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5411/sgkd.jpg[/IMG] $38. 9 x 5050 SMD LED's, 15+ hours of continuous use, VERY durable, totally modular (can run any 12v accessory you like), and I can use any size, shape or colour of LED needed. Best part is, if anything ever brakes on it, it's a 5 minute job to replace any given part. This was my first prototype so it's a bit ridgy didge on the build quality, however I now have 3 people lined up and prepared to hand over money after seeing it in action so I plan to tweak the design considerably and cut costs even more. I have now used this prototype for almost 6 hours straight since receiving it working on my Jeep and BMW, no recharge yet, and it's been an absolute godsend - it'll light up the entire engine bay easy as, and I've attached rare earth magnets on the backside of both the wand and housing so you can mount this thing ANYWHERE. I can't stop using the bloody thing :P[/QUOTE] I'm boring, I just buy 3W warm white LED's [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370789714836"](like these)[/URL], screw them onto a piece of U aluminum "rail" along with a [URL="http://www.reuk.co.uk/Using-The-LM317T-With-LED-Lighting.htm"]LM137 regulator[/URL] used to limit the current passing through the LED's. Also have a prototype ceiling lamp whipped up using a old & big heatsink: [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/CameraZOOM-20130513130308558.jpg[/t] [t]http://filesmelt.com/dl/CameraZOOM-20130513130339939.jpg[/t] [SUP]The paper is acting as a light diffusor[/SUP] Can handle everything from just around 12 volt to up-to 24 volt with the addition of the fan.
Installed my new battery today, it didn't quite want to fit, neither the battery itself nor the wires at first, but I managed to make it fit. I think it was about time now, since the old one was at [B]0.5V[/B]. It's great to have the electric starter work again, and to have it actually start on the first kick :v: [editline]25th June 2013[/editline] Haven't been able to test if the new battery has solved the problems I had with running it though, might get to test it on thursday.
Car is all fixed and ready to go, pushed up the boost controller for good times and tightened the actuator. It's a little too tight in fact so I need to back it off. Put some trans fluid back in and ill be good to go. So far no leaks since I got the right socket to tighten the block adapter for my oil cooler, which I'll add works like a charm.
does someone want to help me fix my rear main seal leak.... ):
Well, I got the rear window out on muh coronet just a minute ago. Chipped it in a few places but I dont even give a fuck because it already had like 7 massive and deep scratches in it. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/2013-06-25%2020.30.24.jpg[/t] And a picture of the glass: [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36648657/2013-06-25%2020.30.38.jpg[/t] That is one disgustingly dirty job, the tar shit that they use to hold the window on sticks to EVERYTHING. [i][u]EVERYTHING[/u][/i] ;_;
[QUOTE=Awt2 x;41179593]Wrapped up my engine bay yesterday. The intake is on, all the wiring done, spark plug wires all ran, etc. Put a good 7 hours of work into it. As soon as my clutch fork comes in, Ill have the car running within 2 hours. It's been fucking two years of problem after problem with this car, I can't wait to see the fucker run.[/QUOTE] awe ye
[QUOTE=Deadman123;41188194] That is one disgustingly dirty job, the tar shit that they use to hold the window on sticks to EVERYTHING. [i][u]EVERYTHING[/u][/i] ;_;[/QUOTE] You can glue almost [I]ANYTHING[/I] with that shit. Just wear some damn gloves while working with it or you'll be sorry.
After lots of cursing, busted knuckles, lots of dirt into the eyes, and 4 tanks of oxygen+acesomthing later we finally did both sides of my control arms. Only Issue I have now is my steering still makes this gawd awful noise on the passenger side, when doing the arms their was this little aluminum bracket on a long bolt that looked like it was attached to the steering rack, and it was broke. I believe that is the culprut of the noises... Ohh and hard sways back and forth theirs a tinny little bump on each side were the sway bar linkages are not tight enough I believe... Even tho every single fucking bolt is when I say [b]TIGHT[/b] I mean its as tight as you can get with a 1/2" drive and a small cheeter bar.
Do you have poly sway bar bushings?
[QUOTE=Siminov;41189737]Do you have poly sway bar bushings?[/QUOTE] Na man just ball joint. Only few that are that kind of design I did to the torqe specs. (Uppers and the link to the strut/shock) [editline]dFdfg[/editline] Stole these from a site : [t]http://genuineaudiparts.com/media/images/oe/mechanical/F208130.gif[/t] [t]http://genuineaudiparts.com/media/images/oe/collision/1/1351190.gif[/t] [del]In which neither of them have the bracket I'm talking about in my previous post so be it. CUT IT OFF![/del] Found it. 2nd Img #15 Only included with a new gear assembly. 936$ Nope. Its going to stay broke.
Found a instrument panel for my vic, this one is actually mph and has just under 40k on it. Put it in, works great. I found out that the wires going to the overdrive on/off button are snipped, I'll solder those back up tomorrow. I tracked the fan not working to the blower motor resistor, the bastard fried itself. $20 part, Ill put that in tomorrow too.
Full sound system almost done..., finished suspension a while ago.. then comes all the engine work... $1300 for a gt3582r turbo, slide industries tuned length manifold with a 38mm external gate Pics in no particular order [t]http://puu.sh/3oxXh.jpg[/t] [t]http://puu.sh/3oxXK.jpg[/t] [t]http://puu.sh/3oxZJ.jpg[/t] [t]http://puu.sh/3oy08.jpg[/t] [t]http://puu.sh/3oy0q.jpg[/t] Its taken me a couple months to get this far lol... Works been hectic and shit idk [editline]26th June 2013[/editline] Skyline HR31 Passage, one of only 5 or 6 in my state [editline]26th June 2013[/editline] S13 brakes and shit on front end too
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