[QUOTE=masterwolf;42094825]Lol my civic pretty much sits at 12.5v :v:
But in all seriousness idk if its just me but I always imagine american cars having big alternators. Just fits my idea of an american car. But of course most american cars DO have pretty beefy stock alts so... And 12.5v at lowest is phenominal running .5 on a stock electrical. Musta done a good job with the wiring and connections, and used quality wiring. Hats off to you, sir.
If I had the money I'd get rid of the dinky excuse of an alternator on my D17a1, I forgot what the output on it was but it was about the lowest I've seen an alternator on even the subcompact class. I bet a hand crank flashlight/usb generator would put out more. Even with the huge XS power battery I have in the back that I spent 449 bucks on I gotta watch the volume and keep back on the gains. I've gotten the sub warm clipping. Do you know the rating on your alt?[/QUOTE]
I can't take credit for the wiring, it's my friends car and he did 99% of it. When he showed up one day with an OFC true 0ga big 3 upgrade I was like.. Damn, good work! I'll grab a pic, love the way a fat 0ga big 3 looks. I've been showin him the way of woof working, building the box and panels and stuff.
I'll have. Peek at the alt too, but I'm gonna wager about 150ish.
If only HO Amy's weren't so pricey! Waiting for stock to die takes far too long , but when it happens then a replacement is at least justified.
[QUOTE=Serj22;42093350]Dealt with it with the dart. Cost about $300 for me and I had two dead cylinders. But it looks like your head gasket is just blown. 90psi to make minimal comp. I'd say new head gasket and you're good, or you overheated adn fried the valves. Although I dont know if air cooled motors overheat... or do they have head gaskets... its all magic to me.
Speaking of overheat. Bought a new rad for $180 for the dart, and a super six setup for the top for $200. (carb and intake) Later I'll get the matching marine cam, but for now, this will be a nice mild upgrade.[/QUOTE]
Head gaskets? Their really is none. Theirs this small paper things in between each surface but really they look more for oil seals. Annnd yeaaaa she got a tad hot...[del]smokey hot[/del]
Best thing about aircooled? Need a rebuild kit? Welp gimmie 500$ and you get NEW SHIT
[url]http://www.texasaircooled.com/catalog/1600-STOCK-ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT.html[/url]
1679cc build time
Ordered this today;
[t]http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8885/xfg8.jpg[/t]
Much better than my dented, bent, wingless, wiperless hatch
Forgot to mention, the hatch closed switch doesnt work on mine, nor does the defroster.
But the brake light works, and the lock works
Got my new radiator, and installed it. The whole process including taking the liquid out the bottom, removing the old rad, and inserting the new one took literally an hour and a half - start to finish.
Definitly not allowing water and coolant to just drain out into the dirt here; this is just a picture of the new radiator in its box.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01221_zps8e030b2f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01221_zps8e030b2f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
While waiting for stuff to drain, I wrapped the Merlin project up in plastic for the boat I'm doing. Going to start blowing the boat off and sanding a lot so it needed covering.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01222_zps6b7edc50.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01222_zps6b7edc50.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01223_zps1095a68e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01223_zps1095a68e.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Took the old radiator out, lots of bar leak on it. Very nice. I pulled the tranny cooler flange fittings off and put them on the new rad.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01225_zps2f4919e2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01225_zps2f4919e2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
No rad =maximum airflow.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01226_zps35698f41.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01226_zps35698f41.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
NEw one installed, lines hooked up and rebent, and coolant hoses reattached. Simple project.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01227_zpsf834e599.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01227_zpsf834e599.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Cars back then had small rads. I wonder why.
Nice project.
Theyre smaller, but tend to be thicker from what ive seen.
I think at somepoint, people realized that itd cool better if it was wider and skinnier, rather than thick and squareish
[QUOTE=>VLN<;42104640]Cars back then had small rads. I wonder why.
Nice project.[/QUOTE]
Copper and brass cools fairly well. Aluminum makes up for cooling with surface area - so they are usually larger and thinner. Also this rad frame accepts a radiator twice this one's size for a 360 or 440. This particular engine just has this 17" radiator. It's I guess all it needs.
my coronet's rad is fucking HUGE and thick as shit, then again it is a big block car lol.
Serj, is that Merlin engine yours? If it is dude you are the luckiest person evar.
Pure horsepower that is. Heh, you should put it in the car. :v:
I still don't get the point of Merlin engines in cars.
>Merlin
>1500 lbs
>700-1000hp
>Turbo LSx
>600 lbs
>700-1000hp
its just cool!
[QUOTE=clutch2;42095278]I can't take credit for the wiring, it's my friends car and he did 99% of it. When he showed up one day with an OFC true 0ga big 3 upgrade I was like.. Damn, good work! I'll grab a pic, love the way a fat 0ga big 3 looks. I've been showin him the way of woof working, building the box and panels and stuff.
I'll have. Peek at the alt too, but I'm gonna wager about 150ish.
If only HO Amy's weren't so pricey! Waiting for stock to die takes far too long , but when it happens then a replacement is at least justified.[/QUOTE]
My justification for a new alt is my eardrums are bass deprived which causes severe depression and decreased work performance. But then I take a look at new alternators and remember I have no money and need other things replaced like my good ol' manifold :v:
And yeah I definitely love the look of thick gauge wire. Especially if you tuck it nicely and make everything look neat in the engine bay definitely makes the car look more 1337 haha.
[QUOTE=bradley;42105891]I still don't get the point of Merlin engines in cars.
>Merlin
>1500 lbs
>700-1000hp
>Turbo LSx
>600 lbs
>700-1000hp[/QUOTE]
This one doesn't go in a car, it goes in the 40 ft boat to the right of it.
Deadman, unfortunately it's not "mine" persay, but the client that I am doing the boat for bought it for around $40,000. It is completely rebuilt and restored painted dark red, and rechromed. It was ripped straight from a Spitfire, and then had a Marine conversion done.
As far as boats go, it has always been cool to put airplane motors in them. During the 40s if you wanted a fast boat, there was no better substitute than an airplane motor. They fit, and made the most power at the time.
This particular Rolls is supposed to produce around 1200HP.
And as far as putting one in a car - it's just cool. It's big, and full of justice, or whatever they put in it. And yeah, an LS or something similar would produce a good deal of power, but how many people put LS's in ya know... everything from RX7s to Lincoln Town Cars. It's like asking a hot-rodder with a chevy what he put in his car. OH! a 350 you say? That's weird, cause no one ever puts 350s in anything... I think the same argument applies for the Merlin. Stupid amounts of power, and different.
I like weird engine swaps, don't get me wrong. But the size and weight of that thing would be like building a twin-engined turbocharged LS1 powered hotrod and then disabling one of the engines and keeping it in for dead weight.
Regardless, it's just that it's a ridiculou-- LUDICROUSLY large engine, in theory it doesn't exactly fit in anything, it's the car that fits over the engine.
If you're attaching a Merlin to some tires, you're probably going to start by building a frame to hold it.
Got my beamer a new bumper, because my old one got a large crack on the right side and thus some of the mounting holes for the diffusor were ripped off.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Pg6qy1j.jpg[/img]
fitting...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/9kjacE1.jpg[/img]
fuck!
But I got it fitted though.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0gEFYDM.jpg[/img]
Repainted and using my original grill with the "T", so I won't turn my 5er into some wannabe-M5.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4RKbwJT.jpg[/img]
That's what it looks from the inside when it is fully assembled and ready to mount.
However I noticed that some of my PDC sensors gave up on me, so I'm waiting for the new ones to arrive and mount them in before I can put my bumper back on. :(
Oooooo So your bumper less right now post a photo and together we can be 2 guys In the middle of car repairs.
Orr in my case lazy and don't wana put it back on.
Was driving when I began to notice that when braking there was a grinding.
Odd, I checked my pads eight months ago and they were fine.
Regardless, I checked them.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0267.jpg[/IMG]
Fuuuuck.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0266.jpg[/IMG]
[b]FUUUUUUUUCK.[/b]
8 months ago? That's a long time.
braek jeb tyme!!
[QUOTE=pentium;42115894]Was driving when I began to notice that when braking there was a grinding.
Odd, I checked my pads eight months ago and they were fine.
Regardless, I checked them.[/QUOTE]
I have to check the GF's as well.
I think I've worn them down pretty similar
My rear drums have been screetching for ages, though i think the pads are fairly new.
My front left brake is still making a bunch of dust, but it doesnt seem to be as bad as before. Front right makes no dust, makes me wonder if its even working
Changed the oil to Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40.
Fixed my oil pressure sensor because the old wire broke off.
Still need to fix my cam seal leak :(
[QUOTE=Siminov;42123230]Changed the oil to Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40. [/QUOTE]
Would rate winner if i could on my phone
Ive had very good luck with Rotella.
Using T5 10w30 in my Impreza (used to burn 1qt every 350 miles, tried 3-4 different brands that did the same. Switched to Rotella, now i burn 1qt every 450-500 miles)
Also used T6 5w40 in my atv, worked amazing.
Today, bought more dash bulbs to replace blown LED bulbs. Also bought some Marvel Mystery Oil, added a little to my oil and gas.
Just a heads up, i got a flyer for Advanced Auto today. All Rotella oils are on sale, but Walmart still has better prices.
Seafoam is on sale, Rain-x latitude wipers have a $10 mail in rebate, Silvania zXe bulbs are $10 off (love these lights, much better than my stock ones,) Wearever brake cleaner is 2 for $5.
Gearwrench reversible ratcheting wrench sets are 50% off.
Just a few highlights in case anyone needs something
[QUOTE=FordLord;42124275]Would rate winner if i could on my phone
Ive had very good luck with Rotella.
Using T5 10w30 in my Impreza (used to burn 1qt every 350 miles, tried 3-4 different brands that did the same. Switched to Rotella, now i burn 1qt every 450-500 miles)
Also used T6 5w40 in my atv, worked amazing.
Today, bought more dash bulbs to replace blown LED bulbs. Also bought some Marvel Mystery Oil, added a little to my oil and gas.
Just a heads up, i got a flyer for Advanced Auto today. All Rotella oils are on sale, but Walmart still has better prices.
Seafoam is on sale, Rain-x latitude wipers have a $10 mail in rebate, Silvania zXe bulbs are $10 off (love these lights, much better than my stock ones,) Wearever brake cleaner is 2 for $5.
Gearwrench reversible ratcheting wrench sets are 50% off.
Just a few highlights in case anyone needs something[/QUOTE]
We'll price match down to Walmart by the way ;)
[QUOTE=Awt2 x;42124709]We'll price match down to Walmart by the way ;)[/QUOTE]
Really? Didnt know that. But the regular price at Walmart is $17 for a 4-qt jug, while its $24+ for the same jug at Advance.
Last time i asked for price matching (which was at Autozone, was $100 vs 150) i nearly got kicked out :v
Rotella is good stuff, no wonder I buy it by the pallet for the graders and every diesel machines we've got.
[QUOTE=FordLord;42124275]Would rate winner if i could on my phone
Ive had very good luck with Rotella.
Using T5 10w30 in my Impreza (used to burn 1qt every 350 miles, tried 3-4 different brands that did the same. Switched to Rotella, now i burn 1qt every 450-500 miles)
Also used T6 5w40 in my atv, worked amazing.
[/QUOTE]
Yep, it's T6, right off the bat it seemed to quiet my piston slap.
Full thing of lucas oil stabilizer plus the standard Castrol Syntec actually made it worse at times to my standards.
I am still running a bit of castrol syntec but just to top off the rotella still, but that stuff is decent.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42121377]I have to check the GF's as well.
I think I've worn them down pretty similar[/QUOTE]
GF's? What are those?
So I replaced the pads today and sure enough while the drivers side pads were worn down to the steel backing the passenger side still had 1/4" of pad left. I checked the piston and it seems pretty clean when you pull the boot back but it's obviously harder to compress than the drivers side when preparing it for reinstallation. Brake lines in my car are a nightmare to track down.
[QUOTE=pentium;42125465]GF's? What are those?[/QUOTE]
His girlfriend has brake pads
[editline]9th September 2013[/editline]
don't ask where
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