• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
but the chaffing [editline]8th September 2013[/editline] ow
[QUOTE=dbk21894;42127103]but the chaffing [editline]8th September 2013[/editline] ow[/QUOTE] Don't worry throw some GM Synchromesh fluid on yo shifter and she will purr along. Just watch out for reverse, some times it will pop out.
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/7hkHanc.jpg[/thumb] What have I done? I made this design really quick for my friend. It's soon to be made into chrome/glitter cut out stickers to be handed out to every 240 owner here in California. Dat shitty vectoring
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42128003][thumb]http://i.imgur.com/7hkHanc.jpg[/thumb] What have I done? I made this design really quick for my friend. It's soon to be made into chrome/glitter cut out stickers to be handed out to every 240 owner here in California. Dat shitty vectoring[/QUOTE] I'd buy one for sure, the white text being the chrome/glitter.
New radio is here, came way earlier in the day than i expected. Heres to hoping Dual kept the plug the same and i wont have to do wiring
oil change and tire rotation on the jeep. drove it less than 7k miles in a years time. [URL=http://s227.photobucket.com/user/justinnelson_01/media/007_zps97ed82ff.jpg.html][IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd205/justinnelson_01/007_zps97ed82ff.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Jeeze, i put 12k+ miles per year on my Impreza. New radio is installed, plug was completely different. But it gave me a chance to clean up the wiring. Also plugged an RCA to 3.5mm jack cable in the back, ran it into the cubby hole. Sounds much better than my old one, also looks better. The screen is black and white, much better than the black and blue one i had. Only flaw; When mounted flush with the lower cubby hole, i cant open the dock. Doesnt bother me, i just wanted the radio and 3.5mm jack. [t]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7748/xgd7.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=FordLord;42132068]Jeeze, i put 12k+ miles per year on my Impreza. New radio is installed, plug was completely different. But it gave me a chance to clean up the wiring. Also plugged an RCA to 3.5mm jack cable in the back, ran it into the cubby hole. Sounds much better than my old one, also looks better. The screen is black and white, much better than the black and blue one i had. Only flaw; When mounted flush with the lower cubby hole, i cant open the dock. Doesnt bother me, i just wanted the radio and 3.5mm jack. [t]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7748/xgd7.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] my poor dd the mazda 3 got 31k miles this year. even my bike is at 6k since january, and i blew a motor in it over the summer.
[QUOTE=thattaco;42131192]oil change and tire rotation on the jeep. drove it less than 7k miles in a years time. [URL=http://s227.photobucket.com/user/justinnelson_01/media/007_zps97ed82ff.jpg.html][IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd205/justinnelson_01/007_zps97ed82ff.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE] Looks like a Dodge Durango? Why does it have a jeep badge?
[QUOTE=slayer3032;42133481]Looks like a Dodge Durango? Why does it have a jeep badge?[/QUOTE] 2011 grand Cherokee Durango is a longer version. They share alot of the chassis. But wk2 is a 5 seater and Durango is a 7. See [img]http://emob227.photobucket.com/albums/dd205/justinnelson_01/021-4_zps8003e826.jpg[/img]
Changed the Crank position sensor. Wasn't the problem, strange it had coded it. Oh well, 56$ lost. Changed the ICM with a cheapo one, wasn't the problem, oh well, lost 40$. Found a burnt wire from the remote start melted on the EGR valve, taped it, tucked it far from any hot source, was it. Costs 4" of electrical tape. Lost 96$ and one towing ticket on my CAA card, but at least it's fixed. What a fucking shitty day.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42128003][thumb]http://i.imgur.com/7hkHanc.jpg[/thumb] What have I done? I made this design really quick for my friend. It's soon to be made into chrome/glitter cut out stickers to be handed out to every 240 owner here in California. Dat shitty vectoring[/QUOTE] Id take one too, woo pushrods.
replaced tps with one that works and actually fits. needs some adjustment but its good enough for the week.
Intake and carbeurator for my super six setup came in the mail today. Carbeurator was only $25 and real dirty. So before I even wanted to look at it, I made sure it was a Carter, then chucked it in a box full of some stuff. Who cares right? It'll be clean later. Maybe. Then I'll see if it needs rebuilt. [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01267_zpsea1c8fcc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01267_zpsea1c8fcc.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01268_zps46c27c06.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01268_zps46c27c06.jpg[/IMG][/URL] The intake is another story. I'll have to boil it and get a pressure washer to it and then media blast it maybe. Not too bad though. Not too bad. For $200 the whole package was perfect. I did have a bead on ebay for the kickdown linkage I need to the transmission, but someone sniped it. Now I gotta wait to find another... [URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01270_zpsbd942395.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01270_zpsbd942395.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Lovin' the bag soak idea. Gonna have to use that. :v:
Replacing alternator and thermostat this weekend. Alternator's regulator broke and is overcharging the system. Might have fried my passenger headlight motor relay.
A stereo amp running at .5ohms on each channel generally gets hot.. here's what we do to help it out a little :D Before.. [img]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/9712008197_c7accc8810_o.jpg[/img] And after. [img]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/9715241198_b0a0402f21_o.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/9712007995_ac1068058d_o.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/9712007939_7c371ceef1_o.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/9712007895_e17a9541d8_o.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/9715241144_e52b54ae4f_o.jpg[/img] Big 3 for great justice! [img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/9712008097_9179243e5c_o.jpg[/img] The little alt that won't freaking die!! [img]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2880/9712008047_5a89ff0e16_o.jpg[/img]
Not really a lot of work for me or on the car. But I drove to a guy I know for a fourth opinion on why my engine shakes and nearly stalls during idle. Boy did I feel dumb, he broke out the starting liquid, like I should have and narrowed it down to either the manifold gasket or some tube with a crack hidden by the manifold. So I've saved a lot of money!
[QUOTE=clutch2;42138115]A stereo amp running at .5ohms on each channel generally gets hot.. here's what we do to help it out a little :D Before.. ~amps and fans and the little alt that could~[/QUOTE] Do you know what class amp it is your using? [url=http://www.bcae1.com/ampclass.htm]Amp class info here[/url] Also, how do you test to find out what your ohms are? I'm running a 1000w entry level Rockford Fosgate (different name, same company) and 2 Pioneer 1000w 10s on a mono bridge. I wanna make sure I'm not gonna blow any of it up. I'm using 00 gauge wire as I got it from a friend and it's all he uses, looks the same as what you got, he calls it 00. I'm sure they are the same thing.
Yay, new NGK copper plugs Bought a plug gap gauge, and a 'tune up kit' (spark plug ratchet, 3" extension, swivel thing, and two different size plug sockets) First time i ever gapped plugs, put them to .044. Runs so much smoother. At idle, its so smooth you cant even feel it running. Also has much more power
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42142666]Do you know what class amp it is your using? [url=http://www.bcae1.com/ampclass.htm]Amp class info here[/url] Also, how do you test to find out what your ohms are? I'm running a 1000w entry level Rockford Fosgate (different name, same company) and 2 Pioneer 1000w 10s on a mono bridge. I wanna make sure I'm not gonna blow any of it up. I'm using 00 gauge wire as I got it from a friend and it's all he uses, looks the same as what you got, he calls it 00. I'm sure they are the same thing.[/QUOTE] It's class D. That's pretty much all you'll find for sub amps these days, very efficient as far as amp topologies go. To find your ohm load on the amp you need to take the coil resistances on your sub/s and use ohms law to figure out final load. Running the coils in series you add them, running them in parallel you divide. I.e. four 4ohm coils in parallel would have a final ohm load of 1ohm. four 4ohm coils in series would have a final ohm load of 16 ohms on the amp. it's simple ohms law math with that. Then you need to see how many channels you have on the amp, and what it's stable to. Most amps are stable at 2ohms, no lower. Some are stable at 1ohm, no lower. And a couple are OK for .5ohms. If it's a 2 channel, each channel would be then stable at 2 ohms, for example. Finally you need to know the output rating on the amp. That will be listed in watts rms @ ohms. I.e. 400 x 2 wrms @ 4ohms and 600 x 2 wrms @ 2 ohms There is also the matter of bridgeable amps. That means a 2 channel amp that you can combine both channels into one output by taking the + of channel one, and - of channel two. They will be stable at TWICE the ohms load of the lowest stable ohm load per one channel. I.e. a 2 ohm stable 2 channel amp can be bridged at 4 ohms. A rating on a 2 channel bridged mode would be something like: 600wrms x 1 Bridged @ 4ohms. You calculate what you will be wiring your subs to, look at their rms wattage rating, and compare it to your amp's ratings. Example: two 4ohm single voice coil subs are rated at 300wrms per sub. amp is mono, rated at 300rms x 1 @ 4 ohms, and 500rms x 1 @ 2 ohms. This is great! underpowered by only 100watts. two 4ohm single voice coil subs are rated at 200wrms per sub. amp is mono, rated at 600rms x 1 @ 4ohms, and 1000rms x 1 @ 2 ohms. This is dangerous, could blow them. overpowering by 400. One 2 ohm dual voice coil sub, rated at 500wrms. Amp is a 2 channel. 100 x 2 @ 4ohms, 200 x 2 @ 2 ohms. 400 x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms. This is perfect. Series the coils on the sub for an ohm load of 4ohms, run bridged, and the amp gives it 400. etc
[QUOTE=Waffle99;42136394]Id take one too, woo pushrods.[/QUOTE] Anyone interested, the reflective, anti-UV, vinyl/foil sticker is printed. $8 shipped US, $13 for 2 [QUOTE=huyu;42140212]Not really a lot of work for me or on the car. But I drove to a guy I know for a fourth opinion on why my engine shakes and nearly stalls during idle. Boy did I feel dumb, he broke out the starting liquid, like I should have and narrowed it down to either the manifold gasket or some tube with a crack hidden by the manifold. So I've saved a lot of money![/QUOTE] Could also be related to the brake booster vaccuum hose. Common on most 240's, engine will stall coming to a stop or during idle. Could also be your idle air control valve. A nice Seafoam treatment will tell you the signs. Also help to spray carb cleaner around the bay while idling to see where there is a leak
As I suspected. [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0395_zpsfb8979f1.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;42152618]As I suspected. [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0395_zpsfb8979f1.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] That's the wheel I suspected as well but I have no idea what it's called so there wasn't much point in posting about it :v:
Idler pulley, yo.
received my 320lph aem FP (they're dirt cheappppppppppppppppp). Fuck now I have to drop the Fuel tank
320lph? HA! I'm running 340lph in the Daytona. But I have big boost plans. Eventually. *shrug*
I have 255lph fuck you guys
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42155791]I have 255lph fuck you guys[/QUOTE] That's cute :3
the fuck is lph?
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