finished replacing my fuel pre-pump with that upgrade kit from IPD, figured the old one had went out since the fuel pump was making a hideous buzzing noise and it had a rough idle. I pulled it out and the old pre-pump wasn't even connected to the hose, the old hose was fucking mangled and there were no clamps to hold it on. no idea what the fuck.
old&new
[t]http://i.imgur.com/1f3Xljd.jpg?1[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/SbwBdw0.jpg?1[/t]
still idles rough(although it's slightly better now) and the buzzing is still obnoxious, I'll have to replace the fuel pump before it dies on me. not sure if a new fuel pump will fix the rough idle though, which ceases after it warms up a bit.
[QUOTE=Dysplasia;42515405]finished replacing my fuel pre-pump with that upgrade kit from IPD, figured the old one had went out since the fuel pump was making a hideous buzzing noise and it had a rough idle. I pulled it out and the old pre-pump wasn't even connected to the hose, the old hose was fucking mangled and there were no clamps to hold it on. no idea what the fuck.
old&new
[t]http://i.imgur.com/1f3Xljd.jpg?1[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/SbwBdw0.jpg?1[/t]
still idles rough(although it's slightly better now) and the buzzing is still obnoxious, I'll have to replace the fuel pump before it dies on me. not sure if a new fuel pump will fix the rough idle though, which ceases after it warms up a bit.[/QUOTE]
Mine buzzes sometimes too, now that you mention it, should check that.
You can also get a walbro 255 from a mustang, it is almost a direct fit.
Changed the oil in my Charger. Holy crap it takes a lot of oil.
And who ever tightened the plug on the oil pan must have used an impact wrench or something. Took my father and I together to get the son of a bitch off.
My car idles rough when i first start it too, and my AFR gauge reads pretty lean, until it's gotten a bit of temperature (running for like 20-30 seconds). I don't know if it's actually lean, or my wideband isn't warming up quite as quick as it use to. I have a sneaking suspicion that my fuel hose on the fuel pump might be getting loose, but i don't really know why that would go away after i start driving.
my oil drain plug was either stripped out, or had too smal of a plug, so they rethreaded it with a bunch of silicone stuff. I usually tighten the drain plug and oil filter with a wrench about half a turn past how tight you can get it with fingers. As a result, when I tried to tighten the drain plug, it skips the threads. I got it as tight as I could get it, and it doesn't leak or anything, but I just feel uncomfortable not being able to tighten it more.
Sold the S2000 today, gonna save more and fix up the Z600. Me and Bradley are gonna fix up his Civic and I am going to drive it while we work on the Z600. Should be fun.
Whatever happened to that really old civic you bought?
[QUOTE=Del91;42536565]Whatever happened to that really old civic you bought?[/QUOTE]
Its a Z600, the predecessor to the Civic.
derp, that crossed my mind, but I wasn't sure. :P
Christ almighty, I really like your avatar now Jap.
Car was dead today, decided to investigate without a voltmeter....
[t]http://imageshack.us/a/img834/2039/w88h.jpg[/t]
[t]http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8281/79de.jpg[/t]
After removing the air filter housing, and air ducting from the grill, I found that I could only access one screw for my alternator brushes, the other was blocked by the oil filter cartridge casing. Will be changing the oil shortly so I should be able to get that screw once I take the oil filter cover off. Hopefully it is the brushes, they usually go bad due to being worn down by 170K in these cars, I just happen to be 1K over that.
Replacing my heater core [i]again[/i]. Don't ever take your heater for granted. And also don't buy a heater core from oreillys I guess, I'm gonna pick up a used oem one from the salvage yard this time... it only lasted about 8 months before it started leaking again.
I'm also gonna try to do it without removing the entire dash this time though, I think it's possible. This is where I'm at right now after about an hour and a half...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/IcUTRPl.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/N57TfpX.jpg[/t]
edit: Got the fucker out after another like half hour under the dash. You can see where it was leaking from too... piece of shit.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/om0NMc3.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/i1peCap.jpg[/t]
Pretty stoked that I just did what took me like 7-8 hours last time in about 2, though. Gonna head over to the junkyard tomorrow morning to pick up the new core...
I remember a hilux came to work one day because it was losing coolant (and that's literally the only thing I was told about it). so general procedure is to put a pressure tester onto where the radiator cap goes and pump that sucker up.
looked at it after like 3 minutes for any leaks in the engine bay and couldn't see any, but the pressure went down. opened up the passenger door and was greeted with a huge ass puddle of coolant :suicide:
fortunately it didn't have carpet
[editline]16th October 2013[/editline]
oh and I put this
[t]http://i.imgur.com/IOfgjJz.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Rsjjua7.jpg?1[/t]
here, along with the others
I took some other pictures with my camera phone but the quality was eye-rape
dat cage
Tweak, when's the last time you changed your coolant 100%? Old coolant can become corrosive on the fragile aluminum of a heater core and will make them fail prematurely.
Coolant should be flushed at least once each few years or so, which a lot people don't do :v:
I seen some horrors, and being most of my friends are car-etarded I usually get tasked with fixing some serious "boo-boos"*
Not very many people know that anti-freeze (Etheline glycol) is organic and once it gets to a certain age it rots, and then becomes caustic to a degree. Non-dyed etheline glycol is used in old-school big screen TVs to cool the 3 high powered CRTs. When that stuff rots, it can eat the color film off the the RGB lenses. Aluminum has no chance against it lest it be synthetic. Also citation needed, I may be missing some info.
*See excuses "I don't have time to learn about my car" and "I'm too dumb to figure out how to check my fluids."
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Pentosin-G12-Coolant-Antifreeze-Audi-VW-Made-in-Germany-Silicate-Free-Pack-of-4-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/$(KGrHqZ,!iwE8MqY1R5OBPSZ)26VQw~~60_35.JPG[/IMG]
Hi. 5+ year rated coolant here.
[sp]that costs out the ass[/sp]
there is no excuse for not flushing the coolant,
its like 2$ for a gallon of water and 8$ for a gallon of concentrated antifreeze
10$ for 2 gallons of coolant (50:50)
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;42546544]there is no excuse for not flushing the coolant,
its like 2$ for a gallon of water and 8$ for a gallon of concentrated antifreeze
10$ for 2 gallons of coolant (50:50)[/QUOTE]
[I]But but but but...[/I]
[B]EFFORT!![/B] :(
/joke
I haven't 100% flushed it but I've drained and filled it so many times since I've had the car that I don't think old coolant is a problem here... I think the reason the original core leaked is because the cap that came with my mishimoto radiator runs a higher pressure, I didn't really think anything of it until that happened but I've had a stock cap on there since the first time.
Anyway, new heater core is in, filled up cooling system, no leaks... Was sitting there idling while I was recharging the a/c and I start seeing smoke out of the exhaust. Looks like it's oil burning but I'm not sure... took a drive around the block thinking maybe it'd go away and it just got worse, and now I can't really mess with it until my new spark plug wires get here tomorrow since I messed one of them up...
Buh.
edit: I think I just overfilled the oil, at least I hope so right now. I just checked it and the level was a little over the H mark so maybe I goofed and checked while the car was on a slope or something when I changed the oil last week. Worst case I think is blown head gasket and the level is up from coolant... but that seems so unlikely to have happened while it was just sitting there idling.
edit2: oreillys refunded me for that heater core though so that's cool
How much puff? Some cars drip a teensy bit down the valve guides while they sit and get blue smoke for a brief moment at startup, but no issues past that.
I wouldn't say it was smoking a whole ton, but it was definitely not normal and it was getting worse until I just shut it down. I'd say about halfway on a scale from zero to seafoam, lol
What color was the smoke?
[QUOTE=Del91;42549415]What color was the smoke?[/QUOTE]
since it's blowing that much smoke, color is meaningless (unless black).
Small amount of oil burnt: blue smoke.
FUCKMETRICTON of oil burnt: white smoke.
Coolant burning: white smoke.
best bet is to check inside the exhaust to see if it's dripping oil at that poin
For Shibian.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTaiFTVLu5w[/media]
Yeah it was just overfilled, I drained some oil out and the smoke eventually went away so I guess I just fucked up on my oil change, lol.
Also just finished installing new exhaust gasket and new oem rear motor mount, prothanes transfer way too much noise and vibration for a daily driver... And that pin that holds down the driver side floor mat, little things but it's nice not having the floor mat sliding up all the time, and it just completely broke off a while back.
I think I'm happy with my car again lol
Got tired of having the LGT wheels sitting around, and havent felt the motivation to sand them. Bought some aircraft stripper, sprayed it on. Ill either do plain alloy, or ill clear coat it
1st coat of por-15 is on my bumper right now, gonna do 3 and then investermagate the brackets on my Jeep and see if it'll even work lol
[editline]18th October 2013[/editline]
[img]https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1375142_10152259547888154_314674054_n.jpg[/img]
carb rebuild time
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23414526/2013-10-18%2020.46.08%20HDR.jpg[/t]
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