Sonofabitch
The Krylon paint i put on one rim is barely affected by the aircraft stripper.
Ill be buying more cans tomorrow. One wheel is near done, two are half way, the gold one has a long way to go
[QUOTE=FordLord;42569690]Sonofabitch
The Krylon paint i put on one rim is barely affected by the aircraft stripper.
Ill be buying more cans tomorrow. One wheel is near done, two are half way, the gold one has a long way to go[/QUOTE]
I tell you a secret....
Put the aircraft strip on the wheel, then mash a trash bag on top of it and cover it. Then leave it alone for about 15 minutes. Then scrape the paint off. Then you win...
On another note:
Finished cleaning and repainting my white 14" FORD SBP wheels today off a Falcon, then popped em on the car. Tires are generic, better than the ones I had though. Just waiting on a new pair of wheels for the back. Don't know what I want yet, just gonna fill up the wheel wells and get a rake going.
Then I washed and waxed the whole thing, like I've been putting off for weeks...
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/CAM01482_zps8deb03ff.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM01482_zps8deb03ff.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Decided I'd take a short video after starting my Daytona after going to the car wash.
Ignore that I don't have a filter on there, I had a rag stuffed in it when I was spraying it down as to not get water in there. I had a hose to connect it to the fender airbox but I couldn't find it and I just wanted to run up and get all the oily handprints and shit off of my new motor.
Also oh yeah the past three days I've been putting this bitch together
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sZubGh0PkI[/media]
Does the trashbag really work? The stripper was eating threw my rubber gloves :v
I might try the trashbag thing, its just going to be very time consuming because these wheels are 18 spoke
[QUOTE=FordLord;42571043]Does the trashbag really work? The stripper was eating threw my rubber gloves :v
I might try the trashbag thing, its just going to be very time consuming because these wheels are 18 spoke[/QUOTE]
The trashbag really works. It's not so much the stripper, but the fumes it creates that turn that paint into a bubbly mess (which is what you want). So ideally, put the whole wheel in a trash bag, open it, spray the wheel, and close the bag. Alternate between the stripper, and water. I use a regular hose, and a nozzle, or you can sit there and scrape it by hand. your choice./
[QUOTE=Serj22;42571113]The trashbag really works. It's not so much the stripper, but the fumes it creates that turn that paint into a bubbly mess (which is what you want). So ideally, put the whole wheel in a trash bag, open it, spray the wheel, and close the bag. Alternate between the stripper, and water. I use a regular hose, and a nozzle, or you can sit there and scrape it by hand. your choice./[/QUOTE]
These wheels have a rough texture under the paint, a hose/nozzle isnt enough to get it off even once it wrinkles.
By the trash bag trick, i thought you meant spray it, then press the bag down on it. Ive heard of people using saran wrap and pressing it onto the wheel after spraying.
Ill try one more time with just spraying it, if that isnt enough ill try the trashbag trick
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/1996 Cobra/2013-10-16 19.13.40.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/1996 Cobra/2013-10-18 10.25.23.jpg[/IMG]
also this the other day
[video=youtube;h-vq1GG1zt0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-vq1GG1zt0[/video]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/MJp51rp.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/eCFpoCR.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/QeOZemX.jpg[/thumb]
couldn't have this handle fapping about
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/kxzf9DZ.jpg[/thumb]
put the screws back in
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/DKoj574.jpg[/thumb]
almost done. just need a tiny bit more padding, some racing tape and then to put the harnesses in :dance:
[QUOTE=FordLord;42571170]These wheels have a rough texture under the paint, a hose/nozzle isnt enough to get it off even once it wrinkles.
By the trash bag trick, i thought you meant spray it, then press the bag down on it. Ive heard of people using saran wrap and pressing it onto the wheel after spraying.
Ill try one more time with just spraying it, if that isnt enough ill try the trashbag trick[/QUOTE]
You can push the bag onto it. It depends on what you're doing. If you contain it by wrapping it, then you win. If you contain it by pushing something onto it, you win too. You can even put it in a storage box or cardboard box and close it. The rough texture won't matter too much. The only real factor is the paint used. Old lead and oil paint fall off relatively easy, wheras multi surface stuff, like Krylon, takes a bit more. Another trick is to spray something completely uncompatible, like a bunch of Rustoleum paint onto Krylon plastics, you should get a nice solvent crack, and then be able to peel with aircraft real easy.
[QUOTE=Serj22;42572404]You can push the bag onto it. It depends on what you're doing. If you contain it by wrapping it, then you win. If you contain it by pushing something onto it, you win too. You can even put it in a storage box or cardboard box and close it. The rough texture won't matter too much. The only real factor is the paint used. Old lead and oil paint fall off relatively easy, wheras multi surface stuff, like Krylon, takes a bit more. Another trick is to spray something completely uncompatible, like a bunch of Rustoleum paint onto Krylon plastics, you should get a nice solvent crack, and then be able to peel with aircraft real easy.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the help.
I think the 3 non-krylon'd wheels will finish cleanup with just another spray, but that krylon'd one ill most likely have to try some things
fordlord you should get the stripper on an open wound, I did that once.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;42574405]fordlord you should get the stripper on an open wound, I did that once.[/QUOTE]
I managed to get it on my arms and wrists, that stuff burns pretty bad on good skin, couldnt imagine how bad itd be on an open wound.
Luckily, water does neutralize that stuff pretty good
[QUOTE=bradley;42570928]Decided I'd take a short video after starting my Daytona after going to the car wash.
Ignore that I don't have a filter on there, I had a rag stuffed in it when I was spraying it down as to not get water in there. I had a hose to connect it to the fender airbox but I couldn't find it and I just wanted to run up and get all the oily handprints and shit off of my new motor.
Also oh yeah the past three days I've been putting this bitch together
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sZubGh0PkI[/media][/QUOTE]
What is it?
a engine
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;42575135]What is it?[/QUOTE]
1980s - 90's in a box.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;42575135]What is it?[/QUOTE]
A Volkswagen 1.8 8v look alike.
*waits for all the dumbs*
Looks to me to be the same engine used in a K car. Looks like either a 2.2 or 2.5, sounds like a nice sized V8.
[editline]19th October 2013[/editline]
So who here is familiar with 95 Nissan Maximas and their random no-start issues? It's the roomies car and sometimes after 3 to (insert number here)key turns the starter finally says "ok, I'll work". It seems like an electrical issue as the starter is a brand new non-reman.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42577332]Looks to me to be the same engine used in a K car. Looks like either a 2.2 or 2.5, sounds like a nice sized V8.
[editline]19th October 2013[/editline]
So who here is familiar with 95 Nissan Maximas and their random no-start issues? It's the roomies car and sometimes after 3 to (insert number here)key turns the starter finally says "ok, I'll work". It seems like an electrical issue as the starter is a brand new non-reman.[/QUOTE]
Find the two contacts on the starter. One is big, one is small. Small one is the one you want. Get a length of wire like 5 feet long, enough to reach the battery. Attach the wire to the small point on the starter which is the ign point. Then leave the other end of the wire alone. Get in the car, turn the key to the "on" position, but do not crank it. Get back outside, take the other end of the wire and attach to the hot side of the battery, the wire will smoke a little, won't hurt anything, but the starter will turn over till the car starts. If the starter started going the second you put the wire on, the STARTER IS PERFECT. The problem lies behind it.
Now. If you have a manual transmission maxima, check that the safety switch is functioning. If you used the jump wire earlier, this bypasses that safety switch. Sometimes they come loose as most older ones are a literal button the clutch has to hit. Jump the safety switch contacts, then start the car normally. Make sure your jump wire is disconnected from both sides, and try it normally. If the safety switch is jumped, and the car starts up first try, then your safety switch is messed up - fix that.
Assuming neither of the previous are the solution, check the ignition wiring under the dash for a fray, or messed up contact. Then check the fuses, if all is well, the Ignition on the column is bad. Replace that.
If the starter DID NOT fire when you did your jump wire, the starter is fucked, or sticking. Simple. Should be about 40 minutes to diagnose. Let me know what it does.
If it has a distributor, we can diagnose it together further. But I do not think it lies that far back.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;42571818]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/DKoj574.jpg[/thumb]
almost done. just need a tiny bit more padding, some racing tape and then to put the harnesses in :dance:[/QUOTE]
I'm so jealous of your cage. I'd give anything to do that to my Z3, but it's so expensive.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/PaBJfdc.jpg[/IMG]
Going to drop it in tomorrow. All sealed up and everything. Got jelly of all the 240bros around here posting their ready engines on Facebook
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42581296][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/PaBJfdc.jpg[/IMG]
Going to drop it in tomorrow. All sealed up and everything. Got jelly of all the 240bros around here posting their ready engines on Facebook[/QUOTE]
Find a way to install it exactly as it's sitting now. For Science. I want to see if it works.
SHE'S NOT SEALED CAPT!
Theirs ATF on the ground!
Plus your head is not on... Your not done, Get back to work!
The 89 S13 is on it's last leg. The bypass "U" hose finally popped right when I parked it on the driveway. Way to die pissing yourself.
More incentive to finish mine now and to replace the 89's with an RB motor
I did the top of my roof with plasti-dip, it came out alright for being done via can. A little few uneven spots but unless you super analyze it can't really tell. Anything was better then clear-top completely going away making the car look like shit. and it kept flaking as time went on so at-least this solves alot of it.
My trunk also has the clear-top issues so I have to plasti dip it also just on the top. I'm planning on ordering the OEM spoiler for it so that way it looks better then just the matte trunk cutting off on only the top as the taillight part of the trunk isn't suffering clear-coat issues. Now this leads to the last part where I don't think it looks right with just the roof and trunk matte black. I just had the new hood put on and painted after the car accident I was in and rather not completely matte black the front hood.
My idea is to paint the middle part of the front hood (Where the creases/bends are on the hood inside that whole area) and leave the sides the regular color. That way I get the car to look better with the evenness of matte black on he front, top and back.
[img]http://images.uptilo.com/advancarbon/D88CE0F6-9F14-4633-AF96-C1F85896256D.jpg[/img]
^ Pic for reference of the middle part of the hood (kinda shaped like a V where the bends are, inside that area would be plasti-dipped matte black).
My only worry is since it's not fully plasti-dipped like my roof that a car wash might make it peel since the edges of the plasti dip will literally just on the middle of the trunk. But that's what experimenting is for and it honestly only takes a couple of hours for the layers and only 6 bucks a can so no worries.
[QUOTE=Serj22;42578562]Find the two contacts on the starter. One is big, one is small. Small one is the one you want. Get a length of wire like 5 feet long, enough to reach the battery. Attach the wire to the small point on the starter which is the ign point. Then leave the other end of the wire alone. Get in the car, turn the key to the "on" position, but do not crank it. Get back outside, take the other end of the wire and attach to the hot side of the battery, the wire will smoke a little, won't hurt anything, but the starter will turn over till the car starts. If the starter started going the second you put the wire on, the STARTER IS PERFECT. The problem lies behind it.
Now. If you have a manual transmission maxima, check that the safety switch is functioning. If you used the jump wire earlier, this bypasses that safety switch. Sometimes they come loose as most older ones are a literal button the clutch has to hit. Jump the safety switch contacts, then start the car normally. Make sure your jump wire is disconnected from both sides, and try it normally. If the safety switch is jumped, and the car starts up first try, then your safety switch is messed up - fix that.
Assuming neither of the previous are the solution, check the ignition wiring under the dash for a fray, or messed up contact. Then check the fuses, if all is well, the Ignition on the column is bad. Replace that.
If the starter DID NOT fire when you did your jump wire, the starter is fucked, or sticking. Simple. Should be about 40 minutes to diagnose. Let me know what it does.
If it has a distributor, we can diagnose it together further. But I do not think it lies that far back.[/QUOTE]
I'll do this test tomorrow and see what I get. I really don't think the starter could be bad so soon, it's barely been a month since I put it in and it's not driven alot. I'm thinking it might be the ign switch, but I won't know for sure till run these tests, also it's an auto.
I'm not sure going so far as to mess with the dizzy (don't remember if its equipped with one) would be helpful, when the starter engages its starts very quick. Which is why my gut is leaning towards the ign switch, but I digress, we shall see tomorrow.
Tried aircraft remover some more, but it hates the Krylon and the oem primer. I even tried the garbage bag trick.
I searched, found some lacquer(sp?) thinner, that works decent.
I spray some on, scrub with a wirebrush, and its gone.
That stuff melts the Krylon instantly.
Heres a current picture, the left upper part has the paint stripped, the right isnt finished yet;
[t]http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6026/kbva.jpg[/t]
So I did the test serj suggested and all turned out ok, till I used the key. Right after I jumped the starter I had an idea, so following it through I plugged the starters wire back in and tried the key, nothing.
After about 12 aggravated but controlled start attempts I remembered that the car has an OEM security system and the radio is part of it, and the radio hasn't worked in 6 months. So I hit the power button on the radio while holding the key in start and it started... WTF is going on here? Whatever, I'll yank the radio and see if I can fix it tomorrow.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42590040]So I did the test serj suggested and all turned out ok, till I used the key. Right after I jumped the starter I had an idea, so following it through I plugged the starters wire back in and tried the key, nothing.
After about 12 aggravated but controlled start attempts I remembered that the car has an OEM security system and the radio is part of it, and the radio hasn't worked in 6 months. So I hit the power button on the radio while holding the key in start and it started... WTF is going on here? Whatever, I'll yank the radio and see if I can fix it tomorrow.[/QUOTE]
I remember in the 90s civics had a similar issue. When I did installs on them the old method that was recommended was to leave the radio hanging by part of the harness and set it behind the dash. Stupid, but effective. I hate OEM alarm stuff like that.
If you bypassed the wires like I said earlier, and made your own "ignition" by jumping the battery, then something in the dash is the issue. Does the radio require a code to reset it and use it? if so that may be needed. Dealerships usually do it for free.
[editline]21st October 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=CubeManv2;42582524]I did the top of my roof with plasti-dip, it came out alright for being done via can. A little few uneven spots but unless you super analyze it can't really tell. Anything was better then clear-top completely going away making the car look like shit. and it kept flaking as time went on so at-least this solves alot of it.
My trunk also has the clear-top issues so I have to plasti dip it also just on the top. I'm planning on ordering the OEM spoiler for it so that way it looks better then just the matte trunk cutting off on only the top as the taillight part of the trunk isn't suffering clear-coat issues. Now this leads to the last part where I don't think it looks right with just the roof and trunk matte black. I just had the new hood put on and painted after the car accident I was in and rather not completely matte black the front hood.
My idea is to paint the middle part of the front hood (Where the creases/bends are on the hood inside that whole area) and leave the sides the regular color. That way I get the car to look better with the evenness of matte black on he front, top and back.
[img]http://images.uptilo.com/advancarbon/D88CE0F6-9F14-4633-AF96-C1F85896256D.jpg[/img]
^ Pic for reference of the middle part of the hood (kinda shaped like a V where the bends are, inside that area would be plasti-dipped matte black).
My only worry is since it's not fully plasti-dipped like my roof that a car wash might make it peel since the edges of the plasti dip will literally just on the middle of the trunk. But that's what experimenting is for and it honestly only takes a couple of hours for the layers and only 6 bucks a can so no worries.[/QUOTE]
I think plastidip is not your solution, but rather VInyl. In fact, why mess around with plastidip? That's for people too afraid to paint stuff, when you're doing it similarly. Just spray bomb the car cause it's peeling a little - overreact.
OR ! Take some 4,000gritt sandpaper and smooth out where it's peeling, then get a can of clear coat that is similar to what Honda used in the day, and lay a few coats on the peeled spot. Then when you've done about 4 coats, wet sand with a really fine gritt, and buff the whole car. Only you will know what you did, it will be fine. If it's eating the paint... then... I dunno.
Or plastidip stuff. Your choice.
Vinyl looks much better than plastidip. That and it lasts more than 3 months.
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