• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[img]http://i.imgur.com/MKoZjrK.jpg?1[/img] step one is done, time to go solder in my car. This is going to be fun
[QUOTE=clutch2;42847948]It worked [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98qrM2u8pbw[/media][/QUOTE] I remember on the school i go to for my mechanic, a guy had remote start installed in his crappy car... He forgot to put it out of gear while showing it to his friends... Nedless to say, the car went into the schools 40.000$ air cleansing system...
[QUOTE=zotic;42851718]I remember on the school i go to for my mechanic, a guy had remote start installed in his crappy car... He forgot to put it out of gear while showing it to his friends... Nedless to say, the car went into the schools 40.000$ air cleansing system...[/QUOTE] That means it was installed improperly. Manual cars can be just as safe as for remote start, BUT it needs a specific style of install. What's different? -door triggers get hooked up -parking brake sensor gets hooked up How it works? -when you park the car, put it in neutral, press the brake pedal, and set the parking brake. Then release the brake pedal. -On Viper units you now have to press the remote start button -Remove the key from the ignition, the car will stay running -exit vehicle, close doors, lock doors with the RS keyfob. The car will shut off The vehicle is now in 'ready mode' and will remote start next time you want it to. It's safe because it HAS to be in neutral for you to exit the vehicle while it's running. If the RS brain sees any doors open while it's sitting in ready mode, the ready mode cancels and it will not remote start. The thinking behind it is if someone opens the door you can go in and move the shifter into gear. Stipulations: No convertibles!!! :O If the top's down anyone could go move the shifter without opening a door. Also, DBK.. talk to me here, what were you driving again? 2007ish 5series?? That car would actually be pretty easy, if I remember right. You see, MOST BMWs (and Mercedes, Mini, Porsche, Audi, etc) have what's called a 'bypass' module that's available to interface into them. This piece can control things like the factory alarm, the doorlocks, etc all through just being hooked into the vehicle CAN data system. For most BMW PTS vehicles there's also a piece to interface with the PTS button in the form of a T-harness. You will lose a keyfob, but other than that nothing too exciting. Now.. if it's a 7 series.. I'd have to look into that. Might be the same nonsense as this X3, AKA a huge pita, lol.
[QUOTE=clutch2;42852154]That means it was installed improperly. Manual cars can be just as safe as for remote start, BUT it needs a specific style of install. What's different? -door triggers get hooked up -parking brake sensor gets hooked up How it works? -when you park the car, put it in neutral, press the brake pedal, and set the parking brake. Then release the brake pedal. -On Viper units you now have to press the remote start button -Remove the key from the ignition, the car will stay running -exit vehicle, close doors, lock doors with the RS keyfob. The car will shut off The vehicle is now in 'ready mode' and will remote start next time you want it to. It's safe because it HAS to be in neutral for you to exit the vehicle while it's running. If the RS brain sees any doors open while it's sitting in ready mode, the ready mode cancels and it will not remote start. The thinking behind it is if someone opens the door you can go in and move the shifter into gear. Stipulations: No convertibles!!! :O If the top's down anyone could go move the shifter without opening a door. Also, DBK.. talk to me here, what were you driving again? 2007ish 5series?? That car would actually be pretty easy, if I remember right. You see, MOST BMWs (and Mercedes, Mini, Porsche, Audi, etc) have what's called a 'bypass' module that's available to interface into them. This piece can control things like the factory alarm, the doorlocks, etc all through just being hooked into the vehicle CAN data system. For most BMW PTS vehicles there's also a piece to interface with the PTS button in the form of a T-harness. You will lose a keyfob, but other than that nothing too exciting. Now.. if it's a 7 series.. I'd have to look into that. Might be the same nonsense as this X3, AKA a huge pita, lol.[/QUOTE] 2008 750Li w/comfort access [editline]13th November 2013[/editline] Everything in this car is a pita
That's why I'd never own a BMW, even if I had the chance to, it's all to expensive and a PITA. Not to mention M series engines are alien to me. All I've ever heard from BMW owners are nightmares and the ones I don't hear it from take their cars to a mechanic/stealership.
My Audi is a PITA when it comes to the remote starter... I can remote start it, but I alwase have to unlock the car first if I don't the OEM Alarm will sound. I fell like the guy that did the installation did not try to take the proper amount of time to try to get it perfect. Ohhh and if I remote start it my Alternator wont put ANY power back into the car until I turn on my headlights. heh.
what
[QUOTE=dbk21894;42854078]what[/QUOTE] Exactly. I decided to take my car out for a ride.....I left my house leaving skidzzz Kinda wimped out... but did't wanna skid all over the yard and leave huge ruts. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Canon%20T3i/IMG_0054.jpg[/t]
too late
jury-rigged some rear speakers into a z34 im selling, next up front and door
I'll check into the RS on the 7series, I'm curious now. Audi def isn't installed right.. disarming the factory alarm b4 start would do it. meeh
I want a remote start with a servo that pulls on the throttle at the carb and turns the headlights on and off rapidly. Then I can have a mopar posessed by demons... It would just rock back and forth loudly while flashing. So awesome. Then I could connect it all to a dump switch so it just drops fuel and backfires too... maybe it would be easier to just have the car posessed by demons.
Vipers have 4 aux channels you can program off of the remote... ;)
[QUOTE=DPKiller;42853176]My Audi is a PITA when it comes to the remote starter... I can remote start it, but I alwase have to unlock the car first if I don't the OEM Alarm will sound. I fell like the guy that did the installation did not try to take the proper amount of time to try to get it perfect. Ohhh and if I remote start it my Alternator wont put ANY power back into the car until I turn on my headlights. heh.[/QUOTE] Wire it up so the low beams turn on with the engine after a short delay. There's relays with built-in delay circuits for that. Probably possible to-do the same with the alarm & remote start circuit, so it first turns off the alarm and [B]THEN[/B] actuates the starter.
[QUOTE=Psygo;42850569]2 hoses and 4 bolts more, engine say bye bye.[/QUOTE] Talking about your E30 engine swap, yah? You might wanna install an E36 steering rack while your engine is out, doesn't take long and it's cheap. Makes a great difference, much more agile/more direct steering. The E30 rack has 4 turns to lock and the E36 either 3.2 or 3 depending on which one you get.
i have like 40 euro left after paying my insurance so that's not gonna happen atm. i'll get another opportunity if i keep the car though, i'm pretty sure. either way that m30 is really not easy to put down in it, me and my dad spent 3 hours trying to shoehorn it in before we had to give up for today, the gearbox sits too high and hits something before we can even get it over the mounts. will figure out tomorrow.
'gon go pick-the-parts-yourself junkyard scavenging tomorrow. Hopefully I can find a rear seat that isn't all kinds of fucked. If I stumble upon a 1.9L TD engine in good condition from a car based on the same platform, I'll have to give myself a early Christmas present though.
I changed the battery in my car today. Didn't have the bill no more, but at least the part store still had it in their computers and gave me a new one free of charge since this one was still on warranty. It was 11 months old and after sitting overnight it tested as 11.7-11.9. Darned lemon battery, thanks for warranties though. Wish we had some pick n pull yards 'round here, price would be cheaper than those yards where they go pick for you and charge you according to new price minus a certain %.
Looked up a 2008 7series for RS today. Looks tough. Would be a pain in the dick no doubt, lol. Here's some funsies. H2 for deck and BU cam [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0321_zpsf988909f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0321_zpsf988909f.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0323_zps4a600f89.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0323_zps4a600f89.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0326_zps8d0220a2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0326_zps8d0220a2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Will not lie when I say it sucked pulling the wires into the truck through the hatch's wire boot. DDIN for some guy with a Jeep that wanted a DDIN to fit. [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0346_zpsfede85dc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0346_zpsfede85dc.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Insides of an X3's PTS switch [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0334_zpse829e749.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0334_zpse829e749.jpg[/IMG][/URL] wires molested onto the board [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0337_zps0132563b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0337_zps0132563b.jpg[/IMG][/URL] dash piece popped off to show the pts switch [URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/IMG_0329_zpseb6867bd.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/IMG_0329_zpseb6867bd.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Shrug, that's about it for today.
FYI, I really like reading your posts about the various cars you work on. Please don't stop!
[QUOTE=Sobek-;42866868]FYI, I really like reading your posts about the various cars you work on. Please don't stop![/QUOTE] I like seeing others' work. I worked for a company called Car Toys for the longest time in WA state. We did the whole shebang there - decks, speakers, entire trunks, etc - I then started doing it out of my own large garage, quitting, and working at home, and charged people a lot less. But i had the space, and my own private drive. I always like seeing good clean M.E. work. Tried to dump in some newer headlights in the dart, could not get the bezels to mate to the headlight bucket, so I got to wait till tomorrow to source some longer machine screws. Luckily they fit otherwise. Going to actually be able to see - wonderful.
[QUOTE=Psygo;42864637]i have like 40 euro left after paying my insurance so that's not gonna happen atm. i'll get another opportunity if i keep the car though, i'm pretty sure. either way that m30 is really not easy to put down in it, me and my dad spent 3 hours trying to shoehorn it in before we had to give up for today, the gearbox sits too high and hits something before we can even get it over the mounts. will figure out tomorrow.[/QUOTE] Which car is your M30 from? If it's from an E28 it will need a different oil pan and pump. E32 and E34 should work. The gearbox might be hitting your shift linkage, you might have to fiddle around a bit with that. The stock M30 engine mounts aren't gonna work. You'll want to use either of these, depending on what car your M30 is from: E32, E34: [url]http://www.300mm.de/typ2/typ2.html[/url] E23, E24, E28: [url]http://www.300mm.de/typ1/typ1.html[/url] Also, which driveshaft are you using? If your M30 has the large giubo (96mm), the one of the 129hp 325e (1986-87) would fit. Alternatively, if your E30 had a 5-speed M20, you can just change the driveshaft flange to the bigger, 96mm, one of the eta. The M30B30 isn't really a popular engine swap for the E30, the costs for the parts and the work isn't really worth it. There's not too much performance gain over the M20B25 either, since the engine is quite a lot heavier. So most people go straight for M30B35, or use the 325e crank to raise the displacement of their M20B25 to 2.7 liters, with a few other modifications >200hp won't be a problem. Not trying to discourage you, the engine's still gonna be fun in the E30, just shouldn't expect any miracles. And the experience you gain from doing such a swap is priceless.
I'd kill to swap a 95 NSX C30 into my Accord, but all I keep seeing is "it's too big, the DOHC heads make it huge!!1" I think that's BS, there's still quite a bit of room in my engine bay for moar heads of a dohc nature.
I've been looking for a set of woodgrain grab handles for the 7,but have so far come up empty... They're either all way too expensive, or cheap but completely ruined. I figured they're low-use items and more of a visual thing anyway (at least in the 7), so I put together something myself. I plan to re-do it in higher quality materials, but the following I made with cheap matte adhesive paper, some crappy clear contact, a custom walnut burr texture I hacked together and the pretty average quality work photocopier; [img]http://imageshack.us/a/img542/5960/lqt0.jpg[/img] [img]http://imageshack.us/a/img59/7804/3jk8.jpg[/img] It's bastardly difficult to get the right colour, but I'm totally chuffed - in normal lighting and while you're in the car driving, there's literally no way to tell they're not OEM.
Thats fucking impressive, ingenuity through adversity.
[QUOTE=Snaker;42868611]Which car is your M30 from? If it's from an E28 it will need a different oil pan and pump. E32 and E34 should work. The gearbox might be hitting your shift linkage, you might have to fiddle around a bit with that. The stock M30 engine mounts aren't gonna work. You'll want to use either of these, depending on what car your M30 is from: E32, E34: [URL]http://www.300mm.de/typ2/typ2.html[/URL] E23, E24, E28: [URL]http://www.300mm.de/typ1/typ1.html[/URL] Also, which driveshaft are you using? If your M30 has the large giubo (96mm), the one of the 129hp 325e (1986-87) would fit. Alternatively, if your E30 had a 5-speed M20, you can just change the driveshaft flange to the bigger, 96mm, one of the eta. The M30B30 isn't really a popular engine swap for the E30, the costs for the parts and the work isn't really worth it. There's not too much performance gain over the M20B25 either, since the engine is quite a lot heavier. So most people go straight for M30B35, or use the 325e crank to raise the displacement of their M20B25 to 2.7 liters, with a few other modifications >200hp won't be a problem. Not trying to discourage you, the engine's still gonna be fun in the E30, just shouldn't expect any miracles. And the experience you gain from doing such a swap is priceless.[/QUOTE] thing is it should all line up, the engine and gearbox has come out of another e30, all the mounts, wiring, shifter linkage and all should be done, the mounts are there. I'm assuming the driveshaft is a regular e30 one but shortened, all i know is it's sat in another e30 with it and it should fit. and I realise the b30 isn't really preferred, but I mean, it's my first car and I've barely even driven the thing yet, might aswell not go too crazy with it. also i couldn't find any m20b25s near for cheap, I had looked for like a month and just no fucking luck. [editline]15th November 2013[/editline] also boost.
Guess you could try removing the engine mounts of the car, see if it goes in without hitting something then. Attach the driveshaft, lift the engine up a bit and put the engine mounts back in, then just lower the engine on them. Could also try shorter engine mounts if you happen to have some.
i'm gonna try to roll under it and see if I can take a look at what we're hitting, the car is on a lift while we're doing it so I should be able to roll under and see what's hitting.
replaced an alternator on a hyundai sonata. not the worst one I've done but after dropping the exhaust and popping a driveshaft out of the hub and moving it slightly (which involves removing the wheel and some bolts on the hub) makes me appreciate that not many people own those cars :v:
there we go, took the engine mounts off the engine on one side and popped it over on the other, everything was pretty straight forward after that. just need to wire shit up, fuel lines, driveshaft, then the radiater and I believe I'm good to go.
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