• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=antid2;42907159]sounds possible i just got tired of trying to figure it out and fix it, figured pay the 90$ spend some time and have a decent engine[/QUOTE] Once you have rod knock, the engine is toast either way. Nothing else you can do other than buying a new engine, as you did.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;42907339]Once you have rod knock, the engine is toast either way. Nothing else you can do other than buying a new engine, as you did.[/QUOTE] There's that, or get new rod and crank bearings. Unless the bearings are so beat to shit it tears up the block then it would be fine. New piston rings wouldn't be a bad idea at that point either.
I want to say the lights were only $30. I had a massive set of bucks certificates to use so I did. I have been hearing similarly that cheapo lights are crap for lighting, but... $0.00 investment into them so far. I like the ring of light, but also do not really like the seperate led's - rather they be a solid ring. I'd like a 7" set of nice projectors and a 4" set of some similarly styled lights for the center signals, but all I've seen for the center is a fog light which is just clear glass... doesn't really fit the part. There's some housings on sale at DDM that are only like $40.00 that a neighbor suggested, but I don't know if those will be any better. Might live with these for a while till I get a nice-nice-nice set, because even with cheapo bulbs, I can at least see now.
[QUOTE=Serj22;42908867]I want to say the lights were only $30. I had a massive set of bucks certificates to use so I did. I have been hearing similarly that cheapo lights are crap for lighting, but... $0.00 investment into them so far. I like the ring of light, but also do not really like the seperate led's - rather they be a solid ring. I'd like a 7" set of nice projectors and a 4" set of some similarly styled lights for the center signals, but all I've seen for the center is a fog light which is just clear glass... doesn't really fit the part. There's some housings on sale at DDM that are only like $40.00 that a neighbor suggested, but I don't know if those will be any better. Might live with these for a while till I get a nice-nice-nice set, because even with cheapo bulbs, I can at least see now.[/QUOTE] Trust me, just save for the expensive ones. DDM's are basically high binned ebay stock AFAIK. I'd probably look into what a lot of Miata owners do since I doubt a whole lot of classic car owners do much more than Sylvania sealed beams. [QUOTE=Scientwist;42908055]There's that, or get new rod and crank bearings. Unless the bearings are so beat to shit it tears up the block then it would be fine. New piston rings wouldn't be a bad idea at that point either.[/QUOTE] You can always turn the crank if it's not a honda crank, but yeah at most it's usually just a crank, rods and a rebuild tops as long as it wasn't a main that spun. $90 is a hell of a deal for a sub 50k mile motor for anything though, definitely the cheaper solution than a rebuild.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;42909104]You can always turn the crank if it's not a honda crank, but yeah at most it's usually just a crank, rods and a rebuild tops as long as it wasn't a main that spun. $90 is a hell of a deal for a sub 50k mile motor for anything though, definitely the cheaper solution than a rebuild.[/QUOTE] True, but there's still a risk of inherent problems with a 90$ engine. "Get what you pay for" can apply here. I'd recommend checking the lower end and making sure all is good there to avoid problems in the future.
Neighbor is a Miata owner, and he claims DDM is good, but he never actually had any of their enclosures, just the HID ballasts and lights since they had a lifetime warranty I guess.
Popped a new head unit in, bluetooth music! :dance: 6x9 adapters on the way to fix those shitty paper coned speakers too.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42909322]True, but there's still a risk of inherent problems with a 90$ engine. "Get what you pay for" can apply here. I'd recommend checking the lower end and making sure all is good there to avoid problems in the future.[/QUOTE] Well if the place warranties it for 3 years and delivers, he's really not out any money worst comes worst.. If he didn't pull the oil pan and check for shavings and to replace the pan gasket it was pretty silly. I'm sure if he sold as many parts as he could off the motor for $5 each he could easily recoup $90. Let alone decent heads/block for any motor at all fetching that at like bottom dollar. [QUOTE=Serj22;42909361]Neighbor is a Miata owner, and he claims DDM is good, but he never actually had any of their enclosures, just the HID ballasts and lights since they had a lifetime warranty I guess.[/QUOTE] Oh!, DDM is pretty decent with lights/ballasts but I heard their enclosures are just higher quality cheap crap AFAIK. Also look into what jeep owners do, I found a thread where they have a lot of good info which basically just says hellas if you want to use a reflector. Hellas would look pretty stock looking too. [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/retrofit-hid-w-projectors-7-housing-958502/[/url]
Over the weekend I took apart the bcm on my 96 camaro and re-soldered a few connections on it. Now I don't have my windows and radio randomly cutting off and on
[IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/2003%20Mazdaspeed%20protege/2013-11-18%2023.21.27.jpg[/IMG] wtf [IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/2003%20Mazdaspeed%20protege/1400635_10200969049132280_1679937758_o.jpg[/IMG] WTFWTFWTF
More boost. YOU NEED MORE BOOST! -Oh its a mazda....... STILL MORE BOOST
[QUOTE=DPKiller;42910956]More boost. YOU NEED MORE BOOST![/QUOTE] wastegate actuator is fuckin broke so its runnin at capacity capn!
[QUOTE=slayer3032;42910432]Well if the place warranties it for 3 years and delivers, he's really not out any money worst comes worst.. If he didn't pull the oil pan and check for shavings and to replace the pan gasket it was pretty silly. I'm sure if he sold as many parts as he could off the motor for $5 each he could easily recoup $90. Let alone decent heads/block for any motor at all fetching that at like bottom dollar. Oh!, DDM is pretty decent with lights/ballasts but I heard their enclosures are just higher quality cheap crap AFAIK. Also look into what jeep owners do, I found a thread where they have a lot of good info which basically just says hellas if you want to use a reflector. Hellas would look pretty stock looking too. [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/retrofit-hid-w-projectors-7-housing-958502/[/url][/QUOTE] After reading through a lot of the tantrums on that page I did find an idea to retrofit the set i have, which would probably work just fine.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42908055]There's that, or get new rod and crank bearings. Unless the bearings are so beat to shit it tears up the block then it would be fine. New piston rings wouldn't be a bad idea at that point either.[/QUOTE] And if you just put new rods and crank bearings you're in for a 200 miles wonder with these engines. You know what's hilarious with 3800 and previous? They were produced so much that the cost of repairing a bottom end is worthless when you can buy an actual engine for 50$ to 500$. That and once the crank is scored, you need the block machined, align bored and the crank re-done, new bearings, new rods. It's just how they are, they're not some 4 banger where you can actually replace the bearings, even if you ran it for a minimal time, change the bearings and I can guarantee you that between 5 miles and 200 miles, you'll hear it knock again. Like this dude had, a 40k miles engine for 90$. It's like that most of the time for any GM 3.8 since mid 85's. [QUOTE=slayer3032;42910432]Well if the place warranties it for 3 years and delivers, he's really not out any money worst comes worst.. If he didn't pull the oil pan and check for shavings and to replace the pan gasket it was pretty silly. I'm sure if he sold as many parts as he could off the motor for $5 each he could easily recoup $90. Let alone decent heads/block for any motor at all fetching that at like bottom dollar. [URL]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/retrofit-hid-w-projectors-7-housing-958502/[/URL][/QUOTE] As said with these engines, you're better off buying a block than rebuilding one. If there's shavings, throw the block away and buy another. Now unless you're rebuilding for 500whp+ applications, you're better off buying another shortblock than rebuilding one.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;42911467]And if you just put new rods and crank bearings you're in for a 200 miles wonder with these engines. You know what's hilarious with 3800 and previous? They were produced so much that the cost of repairing a bottom end is worthless when you can buy an actual engine for 50$ to 500$. That and once the crank is scored, you need the block machined, align bored and the crank re-done, new bearings, new rods. It's just how they are, they're not some 4 banger where you can actually replace the bearings, even if you ran it for a minimal time, change the bearings and I can guarantee you that between 5 miles and 200 miles, you'll hear it knock again. Like this dude had, a 40k miles engine for 90$. It's like that most of the time for any GM 3.8 since mid 85's. [/QUOTE] Not the rods, just the bearings. If a bearing is spun in it, being its under warranty he can just get another. I know what kinda pitas those engines can be.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;42911933]Not the rods, just the bearings. If a bearing is spun in it, being its under warranty he can just get another. I know what kinda pitas those engines can be.[/QUOTE] In all cases, I never seen it a single time being worth to rebuild a 3800 unless you were aiming for high hp build, just replacing a bearing = 200 mile wonders. Under warranty is great, specially since it's a 3 years one. For 90$ that's hell of a score.
im not even reading either of your posts but anymore manufacturers usually recommend swapping in a whole new unit rather than rebuilding, on the notion that cleetus mcsisphuc is less likely to do something wrong and have them have a callback concern.
Draw'n me a trailer. Draw'n me a trailer. [t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/ShareX/2013-11/2013-11-19_13-45-48.png[/t] [editline]df[/editline] V2 allows me to crank the nose up and down lol. [t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/ShareX/2013-11/2013-11-19_15-08-30.png[/t] [t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/ShareX/2013-11/2013-11-19_15-09-49.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;42910921][IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/2003%20Mazdaspeed%20protege/2013-11-18%2023.21.27.jpg[/IMG] wtf [IMG]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5698103/Cars/2003%20Mazdaspeed%20protege/1400635_10200969049132280_1679937758_o.jpg[/IMG] WTFWTFWTF[/QUOTE] Ouch.... [sp]more boost[/sp]
[QUOTE=zotic;42917153]Ouch.... [sp]more boost[/sp][/QUOTE] Slab some JB Weld on that manifold and it'll be good for 2 bar of additional boost.
[QUOTE=Van-man;42918515]Slab some JB Weld on that manifold and it'll be good for 2 bar of additional boost.[/QUOTE] Or grind around the crack and REAL weld it and it'll be good for more then that. If you have a welder of course.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/NdmxoQg.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JYjdY7e.jpg[/IMG]cannot unsee
Uh... yellow dipstick? Bro, start it already!
valve cover/cylinder head face.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;42922340][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JYjdY7e.jpg[/IMG]cannot unsee[/QUOTE] [img]http://puu.sh/5nXjV.jpg[/img]
Well, at least we know what kinda cartoons your engine would like if it were alive. :v:
[QUOTE=masterwolf;42893050]Who in the glorious name of fuck decided to use paper cones and foam surround in a car? They can barely last in a temperature regulated house (unless they have that protective coating on the foam surround in which case in un-extreme conditions they'll be fine), how the fuck will they last in a car going damp to dry extremely hot to extremely cold.[/QUOTE] Chevrolet in the 80's and 90's.
[QUOTE=Del91;42929365]Chevrolet in the 80's and 90's.[/QUOTE] I can't think of a stock speaker I've pulled from a car wasn't made of paper lol
Front fog lamps on the Volvo didn't work (blew a fuse every time I turned them on) so I removed to diagnose which one would have the short, both worked individually then worked simultaneously. Fixes I couldn't hope to describe are a pet peeve of mine.
[QUOTE=Xanadu;42932595]Front fog lamps on the Volvo didn't work (blew a fuse every time I turned them on) so I removed to diagnose which one would have the short, both worked individually then worked simultaneously. Fixes I couldn't hope to describe are a pet peeve of mine.[/QUOTE] I've dealt with shorts like that, mostly on a F550. Every once and a while it would just blow the fuse for all the running lights. Fixed it twice then just rewired everything the third time after being fed up with shitty wiring. It's a tow truck that had been in an accident that totaled the cab which got replaced, the cab is 99 while the rest of it is 2000. It's a frikin mess.
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