• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
[QUOTE=opaali;43332715]why insulated[/QUOTE] In Texas we have a ~110*F days. And when you leave a plane in a hot building / trailer the monokoat some times will shribble, this is not a issue but when the wings are not in the proper position the monokoat will acculy warp the wings into the wrong airfoil. Soooo ideally temps inside trailer should stay as low as possible, but I really don't wana stick a A/C nit in that nose cone because it does a great at deducing aerodynamic drag.
Building da big powa [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/0B923DE8-ECC0-4762-9919-BAE7316480A4_zpsjjtihp4h.jpg[/thumb]
Dose 2x2in intake ports
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;43338805]Building da big powa [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/0B923DE8-ECC0-4762-9919-BAE7316480A4_zpsjjtihp4h.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Twin turbochargers? That thing is going to fly.
IIRC, the old motor in the car(twin turbo 540ci non-hemi) made like 2600hp on 25psi until it exploded a headgasket. I remember Powerslave saying it ran like a 6.90 quarter mile. The same boost or more on that motor would be 3000+hp easy, twin turbo 565(I think) hemi, with heads that flow 600cfm on the intake ports :v:
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43340400]IIRC, the old motor in the car(twin turbo 540ci non-hemi) made like 2600hp on 25psi until it exploded a headgasket. I remember Powerslave saying it ran like a 6.90 quarter mile. The same boost or more on that motor would be 3000+hp easy, twin turbo 565(I think) hemi, with heads that flow 600cfm on the intake ports :v:[/QUOTE] That's cheating. Just... really. Fuck you guys and your Super OP RWD cars that can go mach 4. (Jellly is filled inside my jelly jar) Please do show a photo of the entire car.
Mach, the word you're looking for is Mach. :v:
Changed the super dark oil on the 13 to 10W-40 grade and it works perfectly. At 1000K miles now. Looks like all injectors are functional now so the car also works as it should. Sounds like a Harley idling.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43340910]Changed the super dark oil on the 13 to 10W-40 grade and it works perfectly. At 1000K miles now. Looks like all injectors are functional now so the car also works as it should. Sounds like a Harley idling. [sp]Changed the super dark oil on the 13. Apparently one injector has been stuck open and was diluting the oil. Causing a bit of a knock. I guess I've been running on one dead cylinder too lol. I still kicked ass at the passes. You really can't tell with the solid mounts so it was my fault there. Changed to 10W-40 grade and it works perfectly. At 1000K miles now. Threw a quarter bottle of Seafoam in the tank for good measure, I did use old injectors [/sp]:v:[/QUOTE] In my experience, Marvel Mystery Oil tends to help with older injectors. The Accord seemed to like it. Your edits are not ninja enough. [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/disappearingninjaemote.gif[/IMG] Also a question for everyone, any tips on aftermarket projectors?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43341224]In my experience, Marvel Mystery Oil tends to help with older injectors. The Accord seemed to like it. Your edits are not ninja enough. [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/disappearingninjaemote.gif[/IMG] Also a question for everyone, any tips on aftermarket projectors?[/QUOTE] Make sure they are REALLY projectors. I bought a set for a Cr-v a long time ago and they were $350 for the pair. Turned out to be a tube with a cap that looked like a projector lens floating above it on two mounting points, and not a real one. They looked really cool physically, but light-wise blew a star pattern in a giant circle that lit up trees, people's faces, and half the light made it to the point where you needed to see stuff with the HID's. I think you may be better off retrofitting some or looking at some accord forum, or even... ugh... superhonda to see if someone else already bought EXACTLY what you are looking at. Chances are, if it's $100 or so, it's probably meant to house a cheap version of an H4 bulb, and LOOK like a projector.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43341224]In my experience, Marvel Mystery Oil tends to help with older injectors. The Accord seemed to like it. Your edits are not ninja enough. [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/disappearingninjaemote.gif[/IMG] Also a question for everyone, any tips on aftermarket projectors?[/QUOTE] [editline]28th December 2013[/editline] ...right. That reminds me, I need to go buy a bottle of MMO again.
[QUOTE=Serj22;43341258]Make sure they are REALLY projectors. I bought a set for a Cr-v a long time ago and they were $350 for the pair. Turned out to be a tube with a cap that looked like a projector lens floating above it on two mounting points, and not a real one. They looked really cool physically, but light-wise blew a star pattern in a giant circle that lit up trees, people's faces, and half the light made it to the point where you needed to see stuff with the HID's. I think you may be better off retrofitting some or looking at some accord forum, or even... ugh... superhonda to see if someone else already bought EXACTLY what you are looking at. Chances are, if it's $100 or so, it's probably meant to house a cheap version of an H4 bulb, and LOOK like a projector.[/QUOTE] Like these? [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-97-HONDA-ACCORD-1PC-PROJECTOR-Headlights-HALO-BLACK-BLUE-/190837200229?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6ec89565]Here[/url] and [url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-1997-HONDA-ACCORD-HALO-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-BLACK-/190585630389?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995|Make%3AHonda|Model%3AAccord|Submodel%3AEX|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.7L&hash=item2c5fc9eeb5&vxp=mtr]here[/url]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;43340910]Changed the super dark oil on the 13 to 10W-40 grade and it works perfectly. At 1000K miles now. Looks like all injectors are functional now so the car also works as it should. Sounds like a Harley idling.[/QUOTE] I saw your post before you edited, and it sorta sounds like you had a shitty break in and now have a slight knock but you're just running thicker oil, thinking its fixed now. You might want to attend to that. You also should've changed your oil before 1000 miles, but its too late now :v: [editline]29th December 2013[/editline] driving the car hard is also kind of a no-no with newly rebuilt engines.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43341361]I saw your post before you edited, and it sorta sounds like you had a shitty break in and now have a slight knock but you're just running thicker oil, thinking its fixed now. You might want to attend to that. You also should've changed your oil before 1000 miles, but its too late now :v: [editline]29th December 2013[/editline] driving the car hard is also kind of a no-no with newly rebuilt engines.[/QUOTE] I'm part of that club it seems. About 2600 miles since rebuild and JUST changed the oil. I waited till it was dark, which was shortly before the change, and the new oil is the recommended x-Wxx. No weird noise though.
In my (humble) opinion, you should change the oil 500 miles after rebuild, 1000 miles after rebuild, and then 2k. Never hurts to have fresh oil with a fresh motor.
On a cam/head gasket job, I changed the oil after the first heat cycle, after the first 50 km, then after the next 500km. But that's a no-break in needed situation(Rollers.)
So anyways, cleaned up the garage and organized my parts. Got my new 3 ton harbor freight floor jack in, that thing is a heavy monster, but is a very suitable replacement for my 2 ton 25 dollar jack I wouldn't trust with anything. I got a bunch of new color coated wires, new connectors, a auto adjustable wire stripper and crimp connector. And my new favorite little toy, the laser temp gun.
What temp does your dick run. I KNOW you have done it.
[QUOTE=Siminov;43341567]So anyways, cleaned up the garage and organized my parts. Got my new 3 ton harbor freight floor jack in, that thing is a heavy monster, but is a very suitable replacement for my 2 ton 25 dollar jack I wouldn't trust with anything. I got a bunch of new color coated wires, new connectors, a auto adjustable wire stripper and crimp connector. And my new favorite little toy, the laser temp gun.[/QUOTE] If [url=http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_14348.jpg]This[/url] is the jack you got, then you got a good one. I got the same, I lifted a big ass tow truck with it easy peezy.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43341486]In my (humble) opinion, you should change the oil 500 miles after rebuild, 1000 miles after rebuild, and then 2k. Never hurts to have fresh oil with a fresh motor.[/QUOTE] I did a change after initial start up. Some coolant seeped through timing cover. After the first heat cycle everything sealed. Hopefully it just needed an oil change not because I used different grade. I drove this thing hard and it seems very good so far. We'll see as time passes. If anything I'm going for an RB20 swap later on as well if it pops. You guys got me lol [editline]Edited[/editline] I just did a test drive to hear the sound. It only happens in first, second and third gear and in the range of 1,5-2K RPM. If anything it might even be a transmission noise it doesn't happen during idle only during heavy load like slow starts. My transmission does have a rear seal leak I haven't checked the gear oil level since the car was still in it's OEM state. I surely do hope the clacking sound isn't coming from the block/bottom end. I would really hate to waste time and money to pull the motor again
Speaking of floor jack, I got a 3.5 ton Arcan XL at Costco for 120$ this year, it's a great jack all around, beside the fact it weights roughly 111 pounds :v:
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43341624]If [url=http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_14348.jpg]This[/url] is the jack you got, then you got a good one. I got the same, I lifted a big ass tow truck with it easy peezy.[/QUOTE] Now that I realize it, I didn't buy the low profile version and will almost clear my splash pan when I put it under the car. I mean, fuck me right? Luckily, I will check if I can just take the splash pan off and actually jack it up from the front x member [editline]29th December 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=DPKiller;43341588]What temp does your dick run. I KNOW you have done it.[/QUOTE] 95.3F
Pic of da cuda [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/1CC07C42-21B3-41C1-A6C7-DC3FF75EAB5A_zpsau8qjqq9.jpg[/thumb]
HEEEEEEEEELP HEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEE MY JELLY JAR IS BEING OVERFILLED WITH JELLY Fuck. I have to personally say that is by far the best looking racer I've seen. I mean it looks p much street ready except the huge ass hood. ohhhhh man. I digg that green.
Your gonna need more jars lol [Thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/DB0AF18B-611C-4BDD-A3A8-14BCEDB715AA_zpszchjj9t7.jpg[/thumb] [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/7D29C03B-6C44-4C13-AEBF-96F611602A7A_zpsl3oh1zf3.jpg[/thumb] All built by my dad entirely by himself in his garage, all by hand, engine and car.
So what's the top speed? Warp 9.95?
Fastest pass is around a 6.89 at 213mph, can go way faster but the engine block just couldnt handle the power and kept blowing headgaskets. That was with the predator heads, now hes running a BAE 8X (like the top fuel dragsters run) and is aiming for 5.98 which a guy with a similar set up hit im pretty sure. Trans is a built to shit TH400, rear is a Ford 9 (albeit barely ford anymore). Everything is super beef, here is a comparison of the rods in it and some eagle H beams for a 440. I wish I could find the stock 440 rod we had to really show the sheer size of the rods. [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/8C682CE3-C379-4E76-A6E0-058FA554C8E0_zpsuoyjfaqn.jpg[/thumb]
That Cuda is so awesome [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/N3iEcmV.jpg[/IMG] Nismo hub, quick release and Momo wheel installed. It feels so different to have your wheel close to you. Just tells me I need a bucket seat soon
I would get an aftermarket wheel, but i don't like the idea of no airbag.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;43350746]I would get an aftermarket wheel, but i don't like the idea of no airbag.[/QUOTE] WEAK Airbags are for girls, you need to put a mans steering wheel in.
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