• What Did You Work on Today? (DIY pros ITT) V2
    6,166 replies, posted
Replacing/Restoring my rear license plate lights, just ordered some leds for it. [t]http://i.imgur.com/DWwCLwr.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/K6Y9awm.jpg[/t] good enough huehuehue
[QUOTE=Stiveno;43419466]Replacing/Restoring my rear license plate lights, just ordered some leds for it. [t]http://i.imgur.com/DWwCLwr.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/K6Y9awm.jpg[/t] good enough huehuehue[/QUOTE] Why the hell where they red prior? LEDs from [url=http://www.superbrightleds.com/]here[/url] right?
Well the previous owner did a terrible paintjob... and ebay but same shit
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43409798]I'll wait and see if you have any issues before I go playing with my accord's brain connections.[/QUOTE] Everything's fine here, non-USDM pre-2000 Hondas didn't even have them. Any car before 1992 sure didn't do anything like this and they all work fine. I'd rather burn out an alternator 5k miles early out of at least 150k+ lifespan and protect my electronics from constant voltage drops. I'm far more for it since I run a jumper harness so I can be OBD1 and get rid of my evap/post-cat o2 along with a shitty p0420 I had for 40k miles. Worst comes worst you'll have to re-solder it, shove the pin back in or just toss a butt connector on it. Just make sure you understand what wire it is though first :v: [QUOTE=>VLN<;43411113]Why would the alternator turn off under high load. That is the stupidest idea I have ever heard of.[/QUOTE] No idea, emissions shit or something I guess.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43422923]Everything's fine here, non-USDM pre-2000 Hondas didn't even have them. Any car before 1992 sure didn't do anything like this and they all work fine. I'd rather burn out an alternator 5k miles early out of at least 150k+ lifespan and protect my electronics from constant voltage drops. I'm far more for it since I run a jumper harness so I can be OBD1 and get rid of my evap/post-cat o2 along with a shitty p0420 I had for 40k miles. Worst comes worst you'll have to re-solder it, shove the pin back in or just toss a butt connector on it. Just make sure you understand what wire it is though first :v: No idea, emissions shit or something I guess.[/QUOTE] My Accord is a 95 so I don't think it has that fun little feature.
[QUOTE=Serj22;43396121] I'll take it back off and polish it. Maybe later have it re-chromed when I have the bumpers redone. But for now... no more leaving the cap at the gas pump... And my camera lens is aparently dirty...[/QUOTE] Just fix that dent instead of blurring it out :P
Shitty image quality but whatever... [t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/TVdZsqglRdiVmt59IKfJDBphhQe1DmIxvMRpGw8Pe7M=w933-h700-no[/t] So my heater has decided to quit.....so I disassembled the passenger footwell and found something unplugged. Too bad it was the anti theft alarm instead of the horrible automatic climate control. Welp, time to scavenge a local junkyard for a Bosch temperaturregler or ditch auto climate for a system that doesn't melt its own capacitors. [editline]oh[/editline] I forgot to mention that on Friday it was snowing in my car.....
bosch sparkplugs are shit
noob. Explain instead of hate on them, maby your engine is shit.
Bosch plugs are good with german shit from my experience, they don't run worth a damn in anything else though, ran a set in my midget for like 1 race and it ran like fuckin garbage, NGK and Autolite all day, yo!
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43431244]Bosch plugs are good with german shit from my experience, they don't run worth a damn in anything else though, ran a set in my midget for like 1 race and it ran like fuckin garbage, NGK and Autolite all day, yo![/QUOTE] Modern Bosch plugs are crap due to being resistor-ized, I cant run new Bosch plugs in my Mercedes because the car wouldn't move. Even the Mercedes Classics Center stopped using Bosch, NGK is recommended on very late model S-Class nowadays. Good thing in a way that my Bosch plugs are an older set, but I will be replacing them with NGK soon.
NGK's are the shit, I find champion plugs run good in my gokarts, but thats about the extent to which I'd use champions, havent had good luck with em in non-lawnmower engine'd things
Ive had really good luck with NGK's. Used them in my ATV, then used them in my Subaru. I bought the cheaper coppers and ran them for 30k miles (seems like a good bit of people say to check copper plugs every 12k or so) before replacing them. They still worked great, they just had buildup from several sensors going bad over the 30k miles. Not too bad for around $10 for four. Some people swear by iridium due to twice the life while having good performance, but i honestly worry as to whether the plug would ever come out after that long
theres a little thing called never-seize for that, shit is magic
I buy Copper plugs because they perform the best in a waste spark ignition system. 7$ for 6 :v: Either Ac Delco or Autolites.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43432280]theres a little thing called never-seize for that, shit is magic[/QUOTE] Ive never used never-seez on anything, i dont even think ive seen it anywhere. Ive personally never had a need for it on things that i replace on time, or take off often. I could see never-seez being useful on cars that arent worked on often, or suspension parts that are exposed to weather and have a high chance of rusting (Never-Seez is a specific brand name, other brands selling similar products are called anti-seize)
I use it for things like spark plugs, wheel studs, suspension parts, shit that could corrode.
So today and yesterday I changed, with some help,spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, the shocks and almost all front bushings on a 99 Jimmy, that was... fun... or something... to much grease. Like, everywhere... Then it was off to a 97 F-150 with a broken TPS wire that was not known till the END of the day, then had to change the master cylinder and bleed the fucksnot out of them, because, ya know... old Fords...
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43424010]My Accord is a 95 so I don't think it has that fun little feature.[/QUOTE] 92-95's are OBD1, it'll be wire A16. I'm running a P75-A01 which is somewhere between 92-95. Turn on your defrost, jack the blower motor up or notice the dash lights dip if the radiator fans come on. That's the alternator control working, if you cut that wire it'll stop doing all of that. [url]http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=35304460&postcount=2[/url]
[QUOTE=Deadman123;43431380]NGK's are the shit, I find champion plugs run good in my gokarts, but thats about the extent to which I'd use champions, havent had good luck with em in non-lawnmower engine'd things[/QUOTE] Never had any problem with NGK at all. Every other plug I've seen was always made in Mexico like AC Delco, Champion, Autolite, etc. NGK just works every time for any car I used them on.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43433631]92-95's are OBD1, it'll be wire A16. I'm running a P75-A01 which is somewhere between 92-95. Turn on your defrost, jack the blower motor up or notice the dash lights dip if the radiator fans come on. That's the alternator control working, if you cut that wire it'll stop doing all of that. [url]http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=35304460&postcount=2[/url][/QUOTE] [del]Ya know I keep hearing it's OBD1, but it has an OBD2 connector (unless they're the same, then I'm dumb) and it's IDs as OBD2, so for clarity I'm really unsure about any of it. It's also a V6, maybe it's not equipped and really is OBD2...?[/del] Even though it's 95 it's also a V6, those were OBD2 before the 4 cylinder models. I don't think my car has alt control, i'll look it up and edit if I find something, or just post again.
Well if it's OBD2a then it'll be A19, my 99' is OBD2a as well. [url]http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd2a.htm[/url]
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43433947]Well if it's OBD2a then it'll be A19, my 99' is OBD2a as well. [url]http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd2a.htm[/url][/QUOTE] That's still a bit off, it only lists 4 injectors, unless you were referring to your ecu.
I bought a Broadway 270mm flat and a Kodama plushie for my interior. All the little things make it so much more comfortable to sit inside your car. I also bought an eBay fart can we'll see how that goes lol; apparently my muffler decided to peace out and break off from the resonator pipe
[QUOTE=Scientwist;43433993]That's still a bit off, it only lists 4 injectors, unless you were referring to your ecu.[/QUOTE] It's a Civic/Integra ECU pinout, pinout for core functions/wire colors are the same or very similar for any Honda OBD2a ECU AFAIK.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;43433631]92-95's are OBD1, it'll be wire A16. I'm running a P75-A01 which is somewhere between 92-95. Turn on your defrost, jack the blower motor up or notice the dash lights dip if the radiator fans come on. That's the alternator control working, if you cut that wire it'll stop doing all of that. [url]http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=35304460&postcount=2[/url][/QUOTE] I hope you're not purposely full-fielding your alternator by cutting that wire. Alternators have a regulator (internal or external) to control voltage so that the battery charges somewhere around 14-14.5v while running in most conditions. You bypass the regulator and full field it and it can spike to like 16-17v, which is the danger to the manifold range. Otherwise if there's some sort of retardation to the regulator that the PCM introduces and snipping that wire simply allows the alternator's regulator to make quicker adjustments to dips in voltage to take care of those dimming lights under heavier load.. then you're OK. I might go and check charging voltage unloaded around 2000rpms, though, just incase.
[QUOTE=clutch2;43442862]I hope you're not purposely full-fielding your alternator by cutting that wire. Alternators have a regulator (internal or external) to control voltage so that the battery charges somewhere around 14-14.5v while running in most conditions. You bypass the regulator and full field it and it can spike to like 16-17v, which is the danger to the manifold range. Otherwise if there's some sort of retardation to the regulator that the PCM introduces and snipping that wire simply allows the alternator's regulator to make quicker adjustments to dips in voltage to take care of those dimming lights under heavier load.. then you're OK. I might go and check charging voltage unloaded around 2000rpms, though, just incase.[/QUOTE] No, no no this isn't the ELD or Voltage Regulator. This keeps your alternator at the 14.4v which it should be whenever driving. The Alternator Control is a separate thing which is just a emissions/fuel saving thing that causes all sorts of voltage drops in less than ideal situations. Only USDM Hondas have this circuit/wire, JDM/EDM Honda ECU's don't have it at all. I've already checked alternator output and all that and everything is perfect. [t]http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm279/berginfuse/Picture125.jpg[/t]
Changed the oil in my car. I know it had not be changed in at least a year, could have been two. Is there any way to tell, it was very black.
[QUOTE=Jimmaye;43447605]Changed the oil in my car. I know it had not be changed in at least a year, could have been two. Is there any way to tell, it was very black.[/QUOTE] Keeping a sticker in the car would be a bright idea... Or what some people do is send their oil for testing at black labs.
Changed spark plugs and the speedometer cable. Changing the cable was a bitch. I've got many cuts on my hands.
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