• The "Which camera is right for me?" thread V2 - Get a used Rebel
    1,690 replies, posted
[QUOTE=daijitsu;31630994]what b-hazard said. A tripod is great for steady, still shots, but if you need to move around a fig is a convenient route to go. [t]http://www.letsgodigital.org/html/review/bogen-imaging/photography/manfrotto-fig-rig-video-cam.jpg[/t] you can make them out of PVC. [img]http://images.camcorderinfo.com/images/upload/Image/Blog/diy_figrig.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] that's pretty neat, I might give it a go how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?
[QUOTE=Alcapwne;31631289]that's pretty neat, I might give it a go how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?[/QUOTE] Not very.
[QUOTE=Alcapwne;31631289]that's pretty neat, I might give it a go how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?[/QUOTE] probably better off with a fig in your hands while you sit on the skateboard. Directly mounting stuff to a board usually has a reeeeeally rocky vibrating result even on clean roads. Skateparks and basketball/tennis courts would be the only place to shoot smooth enough directly attached I'd think
alright, thanks :smile:
[QUOTE=Alcapwne;31631289]that's pretty neat, I might give it a go how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?[/QUOTE] It'll vibrate a lot.
just by the way, I can confirm that you can adjust the exposure of the shot both during and before taking a video. (On both a d7000 and a d5100) It will also use a pretty decent autoexposure system, but you can even lock that out and control it fully manually. I don't know why you are saying Nikon cameras lack these features.
The Canon HDSLR's pretty much deliver the best quality at the pricepoint. If you're looking for something that's easier than use, then you will most likely need to sacrifice quality. The D7000 does have a superb auto mode though.
[editline]10th August 2011[/editline] [URL="http://www.abercrombieandfitchuk.org/"]abercrombie and fitch[/URL]|[URL="http://www.abercrombienfitch.uk.com"]abercrombie & fitch[/URL] [highlight](User was permabanned for this post ("Spammer" - Asaratha))[/highlight]
So, I like totally get a free iPad 2 in October and the only reason I would consider keeping it is if I can use it with my D7000, tethering and stuff. Anyone know or had experiences doing such? [QUOTE=pure.Joseph;31639379]The Canon HDSLR's pretty much deliver the best quality at the pricepoint. If you're looking for something that's easier than use, then you will most likely need to sacrifice quality. The D7000 does have a superb auto mode though.[/QUOTE] I love my D7000, but Canon is the way to go for DSLR video. I think Nikon may raise the bar with the D4 and D800 coming out in the next while, but a 5D MK3 couldn't be far off either?
[QUOTE=MisterM;31645193]So, I like totally get a free iPad 2 in October and the only reason I would consider keeping it is if I can use it with my D7000, tethering and stuff. Anyone know or had experiences doing such? I love my D7000, but Canon is the way to go for DSLR video. I think Nikon may raise the bar with the D4 and D800 coming out in the next while, but a 5D MK3 couldn't be far off either?[/QUOTE] [url=http://2ndnature.thebrew.dk/shuttersnitch/]ShutterSnitch[/url] plus a wireless transfer card should do the trick
[QUOTE=daijitsu;31656034][url=http://2ndnature.thebrew.dk/shuttersnitch/]ShutterSnitch[/url] plus a wireless transfer card should do the trick[/QUOTE]Hot damn that is nifty. Extra expense of the router and wireslss card though. Where as selling it straight away means I could get a vertical grip and new shoes! DECISIONS [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3mLDoKcnNQ[/media] dual slots ftw
Gimme the low-down on this lens - [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZSHNCC/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=19X7N7ZN8T22ENZHHKMW&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846[/url] I know it's f/4.5-5.6 but personally I don't really see that as a problem as there are ways around it and I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm gonna be really pro. Plus I have looked at samples and don't really see any issues. But hey who knows, you guys know more than me.
I find usually, the greater the zoom range, the lesser the quality. Like, if you want a tele, get one; if you want a mid range, get one. I guess if you don't know what you want, then the range is excellent for the price. but that is what transfers over to the "primes are usually better than zooms" mindset. but that's all second hand. it could be amazing. also look at the 55-200. It's supposedly even cheaper?
Well my dad used to be a bit of a pro-photographer and he suggested I go for at least 300mm, get more bang for my buck I guess. Plus I already have an 18-55mm kit lens, so effectively those two lenses would make me 18-300mm capable ;) Although it's not out of the question, I see the 55-200 lens is cheaper and gives me .5 more F-stop. I guess I could just buy a more zoomy lens later if I feel as though I need it.
[QUOTE=MisterM;31659756]Hot damn that is nifty. Extra expense of the router and wireslss card though. Where as selling it straight away means I could get a vertical grip and new shoes! DECISIONS[/QUOTE] not gonna lie, don't buy the nikon brand battery grip. The third party one I just bought is [i]spectacular[/i], and I like its little joystick as opposed to the d-pad for navigation. Best part, it's $70 instead of $200 [t]http://gyazo.com/fc07703889916cbe772b5eafca2aae52.png[/t] only downside is if you're OCD, the rubber is slightly different, and the plastic is just an iota lighter, and has a wider diffuse to the gloss. That's what ya get when it's plastic instead of magnesium, but the feel is pretty solid. If you drop and break the grip because it isn't magnesium, you can buy another and still not have spent as much as you would have on the nikon one, hah. bonus content, the RF trigger is mounted because I'm too lazy to take it off, and it looks technical anyways so... yeah. [url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050F2Z4Y]Amazon.com[/url], says it's "Neewer" brand but comes labeled Meiki. I do not care.
Battery grip + rf trigger add +50 points to your ~pro~ meter.
I feel terrible but it's true Unfortunately, presence is a factor in getting jobs on the spot, as well as making people feel they're getting their money's worth before they recieve images, rather than feel uneasy about that kid with the camera that kinda looks like that one we saw at walmart. Thankfully I have reason for everything, not just "buy shit that looks pro to get the chicks" and all that.
[QUOTE=daijitsu;31661943]not gonna lie, don't buy the nikon brand battery grip. The third party one I just bought is [i]spectacular[/i], and I like its little joystick as opposed to the d-pad for navigation. Best part, it's $70 instead of $200 [t]http://gyazo.com/fc07703889916cbe772b5eafca2aae52.png[/t] only downside is if you're OCD, the rubber is slightly different, and the plastic is just an iota lighter, and has a wider diffuse to the gloss. That's what ya get when it's plastic instead of magnesium, but the feel is pretty solid. If you drop and break the grip because it isn't magnesium, you can buy another and still not have spent as much as you would have on the nikon one, hah. bonus content, the RF trigger is mounted because I'm too lazy to take it off, and it looks technical anyways so... yeah. [url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050F2Z4Y]Amazon.com[/url], says it's "Neewer" brand but comes labeled Meiki. I do not care.[/QUOTE]Aslong as its sturdy enough and does the job, I wouldn't mind. You had a play about with the official one before buying? Neewer sold some telephoto with my first camera bundle and the optical quality was awful, AWFUL! Tripod was arse too but its budget gear so what can ye do. If it is some other brand then all good. [url=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Vertical-Battery-D7000-Digital/dp/B0050F2Z4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313040497&sr=8-1]£45 for third party[/url] and [url=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-Multi-Power-Battery-Pack/dp/B00436G2OU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1313040497&sr=8-2]£172 for Nikon[/url]. Looks like I'll be in for getting some sweet kicks! Is the one shown in .co.uk same as what you have? When I did my first portrait work for a friends family (which turned out bad imo but they liked it) Setting up I brought in my camera bag, stand for the umbrella and umbrella bag, they thought "very professional aren't we!" :v:
Yeah, that's the same one. You can even see the Meiki name on that gray product sticker near the screw mount. this grip feels great, works great, though for some reason dials wouldn't work the first time I plugged it in, I got scared it was defective, it started working when I took it off and stuck it back on. Just needed to settle. Comes with both a tray for one camera-specific battery- your other one stays inside the camera, so set the battery order to "MBD-11 first" so it exhausts the pack's battery when available and you don't have to poke at the internal one as much. It also comes with a tray that holds 6 AA batteries and lasts a good few hundred shots. Check the amazon reviews, it's pretty unanimous that it's better for your buck. There's several people who've handled both and say there's absolutely no reason to buy the nikon one unless you're really just that picky about the body material being exactly the same as the camera, not to mention the odd dial reversal thing. Somehow I didn't even notice they were reversed, but it seems logical when I flip the camera around to change the direction I scroll to adjust aperture/shutter speed. Using it for the past couple days, I have to say it feels right at home.
[QUOTE=Combine_dumb;31660684]Well my dad used to be a bit of a pro-photographer and he suggested I go for at least 300mm, get more bang for my buck I guess. Plus I already have an 18-55mm kit lens, so effectively those two lenses would make me 18-300mm capable ;) Although it's not out of the question, I see the 55-200 lens is cheaper and gives me .5 more F-stop. I guess I could just buy a more zoomy lens later if I feel as though I need it.[/QUOTE] I see no need for the 300mm if you are on a crop. Anyway I never find myself needing an equivalent focal length higher than 80mm.
[QUOTE=B-hazard;31664669][B]I see no need for the 300mm if you are on a crop.[/B] Anyway I never find myself needing an equivalent focal length higher than 80mm.[/QUOTE] i think all the rapists would beg to differ!!!!!!
Did any of you guys know that Nikon sources all of it's sensors save for the D3 and D700 from Sony? Also Nikon still use CCD sensors wheras Canon use CMOS and manufacture their own sensors. Though Nikon are starting to move to CMOS now I believe as it is technically superior and also easier to use.
Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?
CCD was kind of left behind, I guess, and all the innovation was put into CMOS. So the Nikon cameras that are CCD are probably just slightly inferior to the CMOS equivalent. for now. but that little bit of trivia is a reason I have no qualms about going Sony over Canikax (Canikontax?)
I'm on a tight-ass budget and I really want to get into entry level photography. Is the Canon 1000D fine? Also, how's the Opteka fisheye adapter?
B-Hazard will tell you to try film instead because there's less initial investment and you can get a very good film camera and lens for the price of the 18-55 to go with it. No, it's not perfect. Yes, he's biased because he likes film, but he makes good points. [url=http://www.facepunch.com/threads/1102740-Why-you-should-get-a-film-SLR-as-your-first-SLR-%28to-those-thinking-of-getting-a-DSLR%29]Original Thread.[/url] once you choose a set up, make sure you cross check your prices and all. I like DigitalRev's videos, but I've seen gear $100 cheaper from Amazon. [editline]11th August 2011[/editline] [/mindless_sheep]
I've read that thread already. I actually know a guy selling his analog SLR for 500 SEK. Which is cheap. Just don't really feel like getting into film photography first. I'd actually like to not have to worry about not getting my film's worth.
[QUOTE=Bredirish123;31665284]Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?[/QUOTE] Full frame sensors go back to the days of film cameras. If you would have a 50mm lens on a full frame sensor then that 50mm would be just a 50mm. Now, if you put it on a crop-sensor body, that 50mm would have to be recalculated with the cropfactor(Most Nikons use a cropfactor of 1.5. Canon uses mostly 1.6 for their crop-sensor bodies.) So let's say you put that 50mm on a Canon 1000D, which has a cropfactor of 1.6, the actual focal length would be 1.6 x 50mm = 80mm. This has an advantage and disadvantage. If you like using big zoomlenses than you get more zoom on a cropbody compared to the fullframe counterpart.(remember, the fullframe camera uses the 'real' focal length while cropsensor multiply the focal length with the cropfactor) For instance, a 70-300mm lens on a cropsensor-body would actually be more like a 110-480mm lens. If you like wide-angle more than a fullframe camera would be more usefull because it is 'less zoomed-in' That is the easy version
Only older nikons and entry level ones use ccd, afaik. D90 and above have cmos sensors.
So this guy is selling his Canon EOS 1000f along with two lenses, Canon EF 35-105 mm f/3.5-4.5 and Canon EF 35-80 mm f/4-5.6. 500 SEK (77 dollars). Hmm?
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