Photos Of Your Car(s) v3 (New Wheel Bearings Edition) - General

Its that time of year again [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/mR7hfS4.jpg[/img_thumb]

[QUOTE=slayer3032;46585866]That optional kit looks quite good is it all legit pieces or are any of them replicas because it's got pretty hard trying to source a full set and they all look like the quality more stubble OEM ones. We need definitely need more pictures and info! [/QUOTE] I am running the full OEM Type-R option kit, minus the wing, its a rep because i couldnt find one. But as far as lip, sideskirts, and rear valances go they are real genuine OEM parts. Here's the current list of mods: [b]Suspension/Wheels:[/b] Koni Yellow Shocks Ground Control Coilover w/ Custom spring rate 400front, 350rear Progress Adjustable Rear Swaybar Spoon Front+Rear Strut Bars Summer wheel setup: 205/50R15 Yokohama S.Drives Rota circuit 8s 15x7 +35 [b]Interior:[/b] Not much here Type-R Shift boot (Genuine Honda) Type-R Alpine Speakers all the way around Single Din kenwood deck [b]Engine/Exhaust:[/b] DC 4-1 Exhaust Header Magnaflow High-Flow Cat Apexi WS2 Exhaust Cusco Exhaust Hanger Bushings Energy Suspension Torque Mounts Shifter Bushings Skunk2 Oil Cap Skunk2 Battery Tie Down Bar CF Sparkplug Cover Again its not much, but its what it looks good and sounds good in my opinion. pics: [img]http://i.imgur.com/21YESDi.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/r1YoOCa.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/spukJRV.jpg[/img]

Where's the heart, bro? That looks sick!

Forget all that. I want to see the carbon fiber spark plug cover, Skunk2 battery tie down, and the Oil Cap. They sound so super wicked.

Hi, I'm a swede. I own a Volvo. [t]http://i.imgur.com/n3QVg9B.jpg[/t]

There are no decent places around here to take nice pictures of my car at, so it's mostly pics of work on it. I did get a set of Acura CL 16" rims to replace the bent to shit 17" VIAs that I had, free too. Replaced a timing belt for em'. I still need to fix the trailer hitch hole in the bumper from the PO being a bad driver.

Got an opportunity to get some brand new Michelin tires for cheap. My cousins grandpa has an business account with them [editline]27th November 2014[/editline] Get me some winter tires.

[QUOTE=cherka5;46587320]I am running the full OEM Type-R option kit, minus the wing, its a rep because i couldnt find one. But as far as lip, sideskirts, and rear valances go they are real genuine OEM parts. Here's the current list of mods: [b]Suspension/Wheels:[/b] Koni Yellow Shocks Ground Control Coilover w/ Custom spring rate 400front, 350rear Progress Adjustable Rear Swaybar Spoon Front+Rear Strut Bars Summer wheel setup: 205/50R15 Yokohama S.Drives Rota circuit 8s 15x7 +35 [b]Interior:[/b] Not much here Type-R Shift boot (Genuine Honda) Type-R Alpine Speakers all the way around Single Din kenwood deck [b]Engine/Exhaust:[/b] DC 4-1 Exhaust Header Magnaflow High-Flow Cat Apexi WS2 Exhaust Cusco Exhaust Hanger Bushings Energy Suspension Torque Mounts Shifter Bushings Skunk2 Oil Cap Skunk2 Battery Tie Down Bar CF Sparkplug Cover Again its not much, but its what it looks good and sounds good in my opinion. [/QUOTE] You really can't beat a WS2 or ITR catback on these cars with an actual cat. Too many people go straight for deleting it to free up 1hp over 3k and -1hp under 3k when it's by far the only thing that keeps our cars from sounding like shit. I almost bought a WS2 but a ITR axleback popped up for $30 and I couldn't pass it up. It's not about "how much" you've got to show on a mod list at all, that's just a wall of text to say it's got stuff done to it lol. Your cheapest parts are skunk2 stuff and that's all cosmetic stuff, I see nothing but quality parts. I gave up on aesthetics on my car after it was hit in the rear and bent in a fender since if I'm gonna put money into that I'm dumping in a few grand for a overall project instead of half assing here and there like most people do. Mine just has ITR struts, ITR LCAs, ITR rear sway, ASR subframe brace and a low mile JDM GSR trans with a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and 11lbs flywheel. I've focused primarily on getting it to handle correctly well and replacing more than half of my worn out suspension. I just have lcas, front sway bar links/bushings and my front rotors to be turned left til upgrading to hardrace trailing arm bushings from 30k dormans and 50-70k mile shocks are to be considered. Then if everything goes right, I'll get another car and tear this one apart to make it go fast.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;46588525]You really can't beat a WS2 or ITR catback on these cars with an actual cat. Too many people go straight for deleting it to free up 1hp over 3k and -1hp under 3k when it's by far the only thing that keeps our cars from sounding like shit. I almost bought a WS2 but a ITR axleback popped up for $30 and I couldn't pass it up. It's not about "how much" you've got to show on a mod list at all, that's just a wall of text to say it's got stuff done to it lol. Your cheapest parts are skunk2 stuff and that's all cosmetic stuff, I see nothing but quality parts. I gave up on aesthetics on my car after it was hit in the rear and bent in a fender since if I'm gonna put money into that I'm dumping in a few grand for a overall project instead of half assing here and there like most people do. Mine just has ITR struts, ITR LCAs, ITR rear sway, ASR subframe brace and a low mile JDM GSR trans with a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and 11lbs flywheel. I've focused primarily on getting it to handle correctly well and replacing more than half of my worn out suspension. I just have lcas, front sway bar links/bushings and my front rotors to be turned left til upgrading to hardrace trailing arm bushings from 30k dormans and 50-70k mile shocks are to be considered. Then if everything goes right, I'll get another car and tear this one apart to make it go fast.[/QUOTE] Im pretty much all aftermarket suspension, and i love the way my car handles, With the Koni Yellow's you have dampening adjustments and then with the GC sleeves you have ride height adjustment. If you are into that type of thing, id recommend getting them. My next plans are between 2 choices. NA or FI...My motor is at ~235xxx KMs. And its starting to show, im running 5w-30 Mobil1 Full synth, and i burn oil, mainly in VTEC, so around 5000 RPM - 8000 RPM. But besides that it runs decently, Im planning on doing a full engine rebuild, its gonna be expensive, i want to run full forged pistons, rods, crank, ITR valvetrain, Hondata ECU, full aluminum rad, etc.. and if the money is avaliable a turbo setup, and to get it tuned locally. All said and done it would be around ~$6000 w/ turbo setup or ~$3000-3500 and just go NA

I went for Skunk2 sport shocks and H&R sport springs after doing research online, the sport shocks have a shortened body and a lower shock height so paired with mild lowering springs the suspension instead carved the fender support into the tires, rubbed on every part of the fender wells, slammed the garbage BWR UCAs into the shock tower and rolled onto bumpstops like nothing. I decided that I hated aftermarket suspension and that anything aftermarket wouldn't have met my wants of a stiffer ride with fender gap removed. So I went ITR with the intent to use all OEM suspension geometry so I would have no issues. My plans are to go with either Bilsteins or Koni Yellows as those are the only shocks ITR owners recommend as replacements. I really really love my ITR springs, the progressive rates ride smooth on the street then stiffen up nice keeping it planted firmly along with the ITR 22mm rear bar. Are you running camber kits or are you using the OEM UCAs? Heh, I'm just coming up to 157k miles(252k kms). The previous owners before me abused the hell out of it and sold it 20k miles overdue for a timing belt leaving me to skip it a tooth 9k later. I switched out form M1 to Castrol GTX and it seems to burn less, I loose upto 1qt every 500-850 miles depending how hard I drive it.. I'd also suggest to look up Denso oil filters as they are dirt cheap but some of the better we can get. You have a GSR so you actually have N/A potential, I have an LS so mine either gets swapped or boosted. I'd skip the forged internals unless you plan to run boost or crazy compression, shotpeened rods and OEM pistons do great. The pretty generic build is to go for ITR or B16 pistons, bigger cams, ported head and an ITR or ITR rep intake mani. Honda motors already have forged cranks, you could build a mini-stroker with a balanced LS crank which is another route but IMO the LS is a stroker in design already and the most you can get reliably.

Skunk2 generally tends to be not the highest quality stuff. I stand by Koni's 100% and they preform great for autocross. I am running OEM LCAs, and planned on running a set of Function7's in the future, but in all honesty, my car hugs the ground just fine on sharp turns, My whole plan was ITR Pistons, Eagle rods, ITR cams (just a side note, look up TODA cams, you will get a good laugh). I currently use HAMP filters, they run me about $10-15 a filter. In my experience with boost, it tends to lead to more problems, just something more to go wrong, so i would most likely stay N/A. [img]http://photos-a.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xfp1/10693435_707155606034000_344948073_n.jpg[/img] Here is my car at its ride height before i raised it for winter, and yes i winter my teg. It was about a 1/2 an inch of wheel tuck so no wheel gap, i rubbed on my fender liners a bit, but it was only when i was full wheel turned one way or the other. Also getting rid of my DC header, its crushed and scraped to shit because of pot holes and speed bumpers here, the 4-1 header has terrible clearance compared to 4-2-1. Im getting a PLM TA ([url]https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/product_p/plm-hb18-ta-header.htm[/url]) next. And the only difference ill see is clearance and mid range power compared to top end power (not enough to even notice).

[QUOTE=GREN EYGS N HAM;46587749]Hi, I'm a swede. I own a Volvo. [t]http://i.imgur.com/n3QVg9B.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Do you have black or muslim neighbors?

[QUOTE=GREN EYGS N HAM;46587749]Hi, I'm a swede. I own a Volvo. [t]http://i.imgur.com/n3QVg9B.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I see your volvo and raise you mine (new pic btw) [img]https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10801838_961141330567208_4396576724787995733_n.jpg?oh=9febc744f3f2cad35699fe21d5cd0d47&oe=551B8422[/img]

[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46589469]Do you have black or muslim neighbors?[/QUOTE] I do, but I'm not Swedish

[QUOTE=cherka5;46587320]I am running the full OEM Type-R option kit, minus the wing, its a rep because i couldnt find one. But as far as lip, sideskirts, and rear valances go they are real genuine OEM parts. Here's the current list of mods: [b]Suspension/Wheels:[/b] Koni Yellow Shocks Ground Control Coilover w/ Custom spring rate 400front, 350rear Progress Adjustable Rear Swaybar Spoon Front+Rear Strut Bars Summer wheel setup: 205/50R15 Yokohama S.Drives Rota circuit 8s 15x7 +35 [b]Interior:[/b] Not much here Type-R Shift boot (Genuine Honda) Type-R Alpine Speakers all the way around Single Din kenwood deck [b]Engine/Exhaust:[/b] DC 4-1 Exhaust Header Magnaflow High-Flow Cat Apexi WS2 Exhaust Cusco Exhaust Hanger Bushings Energy Suspension Torque Mounts Shifter Bushings Skunk2 Oil Cap Skunk2 Battery Tie Down Bar CF Sparkplug Cover Again its not much, but its what it looks good and sounds good in my opinion. pics: [img]http://i.imgur.com/21YESDi.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/r1YoOCa.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/spukJRV.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] Let's see the engine!

[video=youtube;VW4wgmVnbds]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW4wgmVnbds[/video] I made a thing :quagmire:

[QUOTE=Ferosso;46591261]Let's see the engine![/QUOTE] I'll take one today, but It won't be pretty im in winter mode.

[QUOTE=cherka5;46588839]Skunk2 generally tends to be not the highest quality stuff. I stand by Koni's 100% and they preform great for autocross. I am running OEM LCAs, and planned on running a set of Function7's in the future, but in all honesty, my car hugs the ground just fine on sharp turns, My whole plan was ITR Pistons, Eagle rods, ITR cams (just a side note, look up TODA cams, you will get a good laugh). I currently use HAMP filters, they run me about $10-15 a filter. In my experience with boost, it tends to lead to more problems, just something more to go wrong, so i would most likely stay N/A. [img]http://photos-a.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xfp1/10693435_707155606034000_344948073_n.jpg[/img] Here is my car at its ride height before i raised it for winter, and yes i winter my teg. It was about a 1/2 an inch of wheel tuck so no wheel gap, i rubbed on my fender liners a bit, but it was only when i was full wheel turned one way or the other. Also getting rid of my DC header, its crushed and scraped to shit because of pot holes and speed bumpers here, the 4-1 header has terrible clearance compared to 4-2-1. Im getting a PLM TA ([url]https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/product_p/plm-hb18-ta-header.htm[/url]) next. And the only difference ill see is clearance and mid range power compared to top end power (not enough to even notice).[/QUOTE] I'm gonna have difficulties deciding between the two, they're both excellent. Function 7 is the only brand which makes a LCA that has bushings which last more than a year, just know that you'll be mounting your ABS wires with zipties as they have no mounts for them at all. You might want to skip both ITR cams if you want the ITR cams, the GSR exhaust cam of a certain year is actually a bigger cam so if you can just locate an intake cam you'd have a slightly bigger set. Skunk2 makes a half way decent cam actually too, they paid Toda or another company I can't remember to design them way back when. I tried to look this up but I found it really really deep into some cam discussion. There are a few smaller time cam companies that make better cams too, the only one I can remember off hand is DDTech though. Yeah the DC is an okay unit, you don't even want to know the QA on the ebay headers most people buy if you think the DC is disappointing at all. Those PLM's are pretty awesome, they really know what they're doing over there and you just can't beat them for the price. There's a couple of them which require slim fans though, so just be aware they all don't tuck in nicely like stock. You'll also see that your car most likely sounds deeper with less rasp as the 4-1 collectors just don't do the best for noise. [editline]28th November 2014[/editline] HAMP filters don't seem to be worth it either, I did a ton of research into Honda's OEM filters trying to find a half way decent filter to use and came up with the Denso. Denso bought the old NSX filter tooling from Filtech or is making an exact replica since Filtech stopped making it. Filtech is also the US division of Toyo Roki so they're the same company. Filtech is making the new HAMP filters it seems too. I don't believe the design of the 150-1006 is the same as Filtech but Denso makes great filters and make the only NSX application filter. [QUOTE=Slayer3032]I just did some research and it seems like Honda's been messing around with the s2000 oil filter part numbers and parts. [url=http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/520291-s2000-oem-honda-oil-filter-mystery/]S2000 OEM HONDA oil filter mystery... - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums[/url] [url=http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/150531-the-new-oil-filter-for-our-car-is-in/]The new oil filter for our car is in... - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums[/url] [url=http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/473347-honda-pcx-oil-filter-made-by-fram/]Honda PCX Oil Filter made by Fram?! - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums[/url] [url=http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568763]15400-PCX-004 vs. 15400-PLM-A02 (oil filter) - AcuraZine Community[/url] [url=http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2889877]Oil Filters for Honda - Honda-Tech[/url] [url=http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/192750-s2000-oem-oil-filter-summary/]S2000 OEM Oil Filter Summary - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums[/url] [url=http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?67191-Difference-between-Honda-OEM-Oil-Filters-and-HAMP]Difference between Honda OEM Oil Filters and HAMP[/url] [url=http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1083917]Hamp oil filter, Made in USA - Bob Is The Oil Guy[/url] From what I understand they've been trying to switch to a universal filter, the 15400-PLM-A02. They've been trying to pawn these off on s2000 owners even though Honda still provides the 15400-PCX-004 Filtech filter which is very similar to our old 15400-PLM-A01 that everyone loved and the Hamp that's so popular. Filtech is owned by Toyo Roki. The old A01's also appeared to have been identical or near to the Hamp filters which seem to be all the rage, so the PCX filter is a US made Hamp/Toyo Roki basically. So yeah it seems like the PCX would be a pretty viable alternative, it's raised in price recently though. There's a bunch of conflicting information but with all the filters being interchanged by dealers and PR3 filters being tossed on S2000's I'd put a safe bet on that they are all built to the same or very similar specs and at the very least would be perfectly safe to run(just the PCX now). I'm also seeing US/Filtech made Hamp filters which is pretty interesting.[/QUOTE] [url]http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?id=40720[/url] It's an absolute mess really, I just tried looking back into it and my brain hurts lol and unless you want to dig through the absolute mess of info just ignore all of this.

[QUOTE=sHiBaN;46591297][video=youtube;VW4wgmVnbds]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW4wgmVnbds[/video] I made a thing :quagmire:[/QUOTE] That soundtrack made me expect to see rainbows and unicorns. I saw neither.

Went to a car meet tonight with Tiersin, took about an hour to get in the parking garage where it was happening. Not a minute after we park we head over to the edge and just see a bunch of cop cars everywhere. Nobody else made it in after that, but there were some really sick cars. I have some photos but I really need to get some sleep.

[QUOTE=BANNED USER;46598825]Went to a car meet tonight with Tiersin, took about an hour to get in the parking garage where it was happening. Not a minute after we park we head over to the edge and just see a bunch of cop cars everywhere. Nobody else made it in after that, but there were some really sick cars. I have some photos but I really need to get some sleep.[/QUOTE] The police need to get over their hate boner for car meets

didn't australia or some other country straight up ban driving around for fun as a group?

[QUOTE=dwt110;46605022]didn't australia or some other country straight up ban driving around for fun as a group?[/QUOTE] I think it was driving slowly around as a group to show off or something like that.

The last car meet I was at which had cops anywhere near it was a Beetle meetup where a cop getting married right next to our meeting spot came over to take his wedding pictures in a Beetle cabriolet

yeah even when lillestrøm was literally shut down because of an amcar meeting there was only a couple cops there, and they were just helping push a broken down mustang.

They grouped up a huge sideshow in oakland a little bit ago. It's kind of fun to see the van try and escape over the rail road tracks, and then I guess someone set fire to their own car? Contraband I'm guessing. [video=youtube;apxn8qizAH4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apxn8qizAH4[/video] It was something like 200 cars and none of them got out it looks like. This was down by the shipping docks where they normally have street races and things like this. They usually wind up in people shooting at eachother. Not necessarily a "meet"

I watched that one live, pretty sure they thought their car would blow a hole in the fence if they set it on fire. A few dudes escaped through the hole the van opened before the cops noticed and blocked the other end of it.

Sideshows are a big deal in Oakland. There's also a no pursuit policy in the city itself. That may only apply to motorcycles, but there's a lot of squids, and people blocking sections of freeway to do donuts.

hey hey, picked up a tailgate yesterday at a junkyard in PA. [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/crouchingtailgatehiddenyukari_zps11302ce7.jpg[/img]

5 lugs done. [t]http://scontent-a.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/10831953_1497318603865869_1389211418_n.jpg[/t] Im 90% sure the problem with the engine is wiring related with the alternator. was going over the harness today and its a shitshow. gonna have to buy a tester and get to work