• The Official Questions Thread V. GUYS WHERE DO I BUY MAGPUL RAIL COVERS FOR MY BETA SPOOTZNAAZ??
    1,428 replies, posted
what can i use to protect the red dot optic i have in the pic i posted earlier?
[QUOTE=krazipanda;34233227]what can i use to protect the red dot optic i have in the pic i posted earlier?[/QUOTE] I get some of the flat front workshop goggles and cut em up, then glue gun it on. Worksish. It got hit once, but I doubt it will last another.
[QUOTE=MedicmanV500;34185074]I got a 6.01 509mm Madbull TBB from Evike, and I really don't know what's wrong with it. I threw it in my KWA SR10 and the accuracy is abysmal. It spews BBs all over the place in a gigantic cone of fire and shoots about 30 feet. I looked down the barrel and there's all this weird looking gunk, I don't know how to describe it. It almost looks like sand, but I literally cleaned my barrel out 10 times, used a shitload of silicon spray and thick wads of paper towels, and it will NOT come out. Maybe it's the inside of the barrel flaking off? Right now I threw my old barrel back in my KWA and it's shooting fine so it's most definitely the barrel. Air seal nozzle, bucking, hop up unit all look perfectly fine to me.[/QUOTE] Can anyone help me with this please?
[QUOTE=TheHypnotoad;34233281]I get some of the flat front workshop goggles and cut em up, then glue gun it on. Worksish. It got hit once, but I doubt it will last another.[/QUOTE] would plexiglass work?
[QUOTE=krazipanda;34233568]would plexiglass work?[/QUOTE] Better than nothing? get a bit and shoot it, if it survives then big whoop. Just make sure to glue it to the frame. Not touching the glass.
[QUOTE=krazipanda;34233568]would plexiglass work?[/QUOTE] use epoxy to adhere it to the frame because when I tried it with glue it fell off during play
Best option is probably to find a way of clamping it on to your sights frame, so that way you can change it in the event of too many scratches without a lot of fuss. Plexiglass or lexan should work just fine, but always test the material first. Lots of people just buy the spare frames for goggles and cut the proper shape from that.
KWA M9 PTP vs. KWA USP Compact? Which has the overall upper edge in CQB?
KWA guns are all the same with the exception of their 1911's which have a bit of a poor reputation. If you're going KWA you can basically buy entirely for looks.
[QUOTE=notrabies;34233920]KWA guns are all the same with the exception of their 1911's which have a bit of a poor reputation. If you're going KWA you can basically buy entirely for looks.[/QUOTE] all KWA guns are fantastic IMO.
About the CYMA M14, I read from some people that it has a tightbore and Marui hop-up unit, and from others that both the barrel and hop-up should be replaced. I'm not looking for an uber-rifle, just something that can punt BBs at 430fps with good enough range and accuracy to be useful on semi-auto. Should I get additional parts or will the stock gun with a spring change suit my needs?
-snip, notrabies is king-
[QUOTE=catbarf;34234725]About the CYMA M14, I read from some people that it has a tightbore and Marui hop-up unit, and from others that both the barrel and hop-up should be replaced. I'm not looking for an uber-rifle, just something that can punt BBs at 430fps with good enough range and accuracy to be useful on semi-auto. Should I get additional parts or will the stock gun with a spring change suit my needs?[/QUOTE] Motor change, shims and spring change. You'll be golden
[QUOTE=Psycoace2;34234951]How the fuck do I remove a free float delta ring without an AR tool?[/QUOTE] With the power of friendship!
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;34235021]Motor change, shims and spring change. You'll be golden[/QUOTE] Shims and springs are a definite yes, not sure about the motor- is it really necessary? I'll be using a 9.6V in it, and will likely never use full auto, and trigger response isn't a top priority for me.
[QUOTE=MedicmanV500;34233509]Can anyone help me with this please?[/QUOTE] I honestly cannot think of much that could be, the most likely solution is that yes, the inside of the barrel is flaking out. It's not like they paint the stuff. Contact Evike about it? It sounds weird dude.
I just sawed the fuck outta the dboys stock to make it fit my cyma time to put it back together tomorrow whoopdefuckingdoo can someone be nice and help me take a picture of the inside part of the stock latch button on their cyma 040 model? [img]http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3401/dsfdsgdfhg.png[/img] I wanna see the piece on the right and how it's installed within the rifle (obv doesnt look like the actual thing but I was doing it off the top of my head so cut me some slack) [editline]15th January 2012[/editline] I mainly wanna see how the tiny spring is installed within the damn thing [editline]15th January 2012[/editline] yes, you have to take your gearbox out to take a picture of it
The motor is poo and really weak. You'll want toreplace it at some point but it's not totally necessary @catbarf
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;34235381]The motor is poo and really weak. You'll want toreplace it at some point but it's not totally necessary @catbarf[/QUOTE] Ah. Might go cheap on a replacement then, I don't really need a high-end one.
Wait, question: Are you planning to make a semi only rifle where trigger response is not important?
[QUOTE=notrabies;34235462]Wait, question: Are you planning to make a semi only rifle where trigger response is not important?[/QUOTE] I'm planning to make a semi only rifle. Assuming trigger response refers solely to the split-second delay between trigger pull and firing, I've never felt a need to minimize it beyond what I can get with a decent motor and not excessively strong spring.
Well as an owner of 2 semi only rifles, I can inform you that its kind of a big deal. You will not be able to effectively hit someone moving or someone who's actively peeking in and out of cover, you'll only be able to hit a static target. And while I don't have much experience with them, I'm not sure a CYMA will be able to get you the great accuracy needed to even out a low trigger response build. [editline]15th January 2012[/editline] Oh and another huge deal is that you'll have a very high chance of accidentally locking up your gearbox if you have a low trigger response.
Locking up shouldn't be an issue since it does have selective fire capability. I've read that the CYMA M14 in particular has good accuracy, but I don't know if that's good accuracy in general or good accuracy for a $140 gun. I can definitely upgrade the motor, how much I should need to upgrade it is the question. I'm really not looking for a super-long-range sniper rifle with this, just a battle rifle with a bit more reach and accuracy than the typical M4.
WTF I just learned my field doesn't allow DMRs. There's basic AEGs (assault/battle rifles, SMGs), support weapons, and bolt-action sniper rifles. I was all happy about this M14 talk because I kinda wanted one but then I found the terrible truth.
[QUOTE=catbarf;34235771]Locking up shouldn't be an issue since it does have selective fire capability. I've read that the CYMA M14 in particular has good accuracy, but I don't know if that's good accuracy in general or good accuracy for a $140 gun. I can definitely upgrade the motor, how much I should need to upgrade it is the question. I'm really not looking for a super-long-range sniper rifle with this, just a battle rifle with a bit more reach and accuracy than the typical M4.[/QUOTE] My main concern is your battery selection, you basically need an 11.1v lipo to be competitive against full auto weapons. As was posted previously: [url]http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/[/url] They're far cheaper than standard NiMH batteries in addition to being infinitely better. Also, the fact that you're keeping your M14 select fire will save you a lot of trouble, good on you. [QUOTE=cardfan212;34235787]WTF I just learned my field doesn't allow DMRs. There's basic AEGs (assault/battle rifles, SMGs), support weapons, and bolt-action sniper rifles. I was all happy about this M14 talk because I kinda wanted one but then I found the terrible truth.[/QUOTE] I've never played anywhere with specific DMR rules, most places that have any sort of benefit for semiauto weapons allow you to use it at sniper rifle fps limits with the sniper rifle minimum engagement distance.
[QUOTE=Kill001;34235184]I just sawed the fuck outta the dboys stock to make it fit my cyma time to put it back together tomorrow whoopdefuckingdoo can someone be nice and help me take a picture of the inside part of the stock latch button on their cyma 040 model? [img]http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3401/dsfdsgdfhg.png[/img] I wanna see the piece on the right and how it's installed within the rifle (obv doesnt look like the actual thing but I was doing it off the top of my head so cut me some slack) [editline]15th January 2012[/editline] I mainly wanna see how the tiny spring is installed within the damn thing [editline]15th January 2012[/editline] yes, you have to take your gearbox out to take a picture of it[/QUOTE] that would be tough, as there's loctite all over the gun, preventing it to be taken apart for the most part ;x
[QUOTE=notrabies;34235867]My main concern is your battery selection, you basically need an 11.1v lipo to be competitive against full auto weapons. As was posted previously: [url]http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/[/url] They're far cheaper than standard NiMH batteries in addition to being infinitely better. Also, the fact that you're keeping your M14 select fire will save you a lot of trouble, good on you.[/QUOTE] I have a friend who uses a RS SVD with an 11.1, I might be able to borrow it to try out before jumping into LiPos myself. He has had issues with the gearbox locking up, I wouldn't use full auto with an M14 (it just seems [i]wrong[/i]) but I imagine it'd be useful to have the functionality just to be able to fix it.
You'll need it with the stock motor
[QUOTE=catbarf;34235926]I have a friend who uses a RS SVD with an 11.1, I might be able to borrow it to try out before jumping into LiPos myself. He has had issues with the gearbox locking up, I wouldn't use full auto with an M14 (it just seems [i]wrong[/i]) but I imagine it'd be useful to have the functionality just to be able to fix it.[/QUOTE] Does he know about the unlock lever with the SVD? V2 and onwards RS SVDs have an unlock switch that lets the gun fix a semi auto caused jam, which is also available as a very cheap and easy to install part. The way it works is that above the mag release there's a small lever, that when you hit it shoots the gun in full auto. As it can only be activated with the magazine out, its a perfect system. If you do decide to go into lipos here's what you need: [url]http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/120-elite-airsoft-20c-2200mah-3s-111v-nunchuck-2n.aspx[/url] [url]http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/150-airsoft-lvc-for-3s-111v-lipo-packs.aspx[/url] [url]http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/114-elite-airsoft-simple-lipo-charger.aspx[/url] For like $65 + shipping, you get the best setup possible, or you can swap that battery to a lower level 11.1v 15c and take it down to about $40 total.
I was thinking about getting a [url]http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Spec-Tactical-Response-Rip-Stop-Woodland/dp/B002D3XBSA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1326738571&sr=8-4[/url] but I wasn't sure cause I heard they fade like fuc. this one is 50/50 nylon cotton material. buy or no [editline]16th January 2012[/editline] or just buy the grabass bag [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL9CUI/ref=sc_pgp__m_A3Q2A3HABW6PEA_12?ie=UTF8&m=A3Q2A3HABW6PEA&n=&s=&v=glance[/url]
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