• The Official Questions Thread V. GUYS WHERE DO I BUY MAGPUL RAIL COVERS FOR MY BETA SPOOTZNAAZ??
    1,428 replies, posted
[url]http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/Mad_Bull_Shark_Hop_Up_Bucking_Black_p/35501.htm[/url] i take a look at amazon prime. fucking OP service :V [editline]29th January 2012[/editline] nothing on amazon prime except terrible airsoft books
Why different hardnesses? I know it has to do with fps. My gun is 320 with .25g
I really want to make a joke but i feer postal. Harder is tougher, and lasts longer, but has less grip, this isnt a problem at high fps when your shooting it out with such force that really anything would throw a backspin on the bb. Obviously softer is weaker but has better grip. It's kind of like tyres..
Simply, hard ones are for high FPS guns, softer ones would get fucked up quicker.
Would I want the red or black for my gun?
Soft, not sure how much FPS you would get with .2's, but harder ones usually go with guns that get way over 400. DMR's and all other snipe shit.
So I should go red?
[img]http://scarlettopia.com/img/liberty-prime.jpg[/img] [h2]"BETTER DEAD THAN RED!"[/h2] [editline]30th January 2012[/editline] no seriously red should work
My friend needs some tools since hes getting into tech stuff and he put this together on lowes [IMG]http://filesmelt.com/dl/tools.PNG[/IMG] Opinions? would prefer not to spend over $70.
Consider a pin/ soft hammer rather than a whacking great thing. A set of needle files are a good long term investment as well. Other things like a decent soldering iron and electrical stuff will come later.
[QUOTE=TheHypnotoad;34464845]Consider a pin/ soft hammer rather than a whacking great thing. A set of needle files are a good long term investment as well. Other things like a decent soldering iron and electrical stuff will come later.[/QUOTE] Hes got a soldering iron, needle files, a soft hammer and by pin what do you mean exactly?
Snip. won't have money for a vietnam loadout anyway
Anyone know how feasible running a line off of a propane tank would be? I run propane for my GBB and am very weary of the tank getting shot. I was going to run it in a padded pouch on the back of my plate carrier, through a hose, and into the adapter. Much like a PolarStar HPA setup.
That shouldn't be a huge issue imo. Propane tanks are thick, and that padding should prevent anything from puncturing it. Worse case scenario, if they leak, they slowly release gas for safety. Of course, I would personally just refill at staging.
[QUOTE=KingZaiKay;34464753]My friend needs some tools since hes getting into tech stuff and he put this together on lowes [IMG]http://filesmelt.com/dl/tools.PNG[/IMG] Opinions? would prefer not to spend over $70.[/QUOTE] Don't buy individual tools. Find a decent tool set and go with that instead, you'll likely save money and end up with more stuff.
[QUOTE=Year_of_Lurking;34466188]That shouldn't be a huge issue imo. Propane tanks are thick, and that padding should prevent anything from puncturing it. Worse case scenario, if they leak, they slowly release gas for safety. Of course, I would personally just refill at staging.[/QUOTE] I don't think you'd have an issue, its mostly dependent on what you're trying to connect this line to. Also, I imagine you may have some trouble figuring out the exact kind of nozzles/valves/line to use. You won't need regulators/gauges since its psi is already where you want it. Things you will need are a method of connecting your line to your tank, an ability to turn off the flow from the tank (normally a screw top sort of deal on HPA/CO2 tanks), and a way to connect your gas to what its powering. It seems kind of worthless to do it on a GBB, either you have to deal with some quick disconnect system for every single magazine or you have one mag with limited ammo and a shitton of gas. I'm gonna be using this for my shotguns, and they offer it without the tank, maybe it would work?: [url]http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=823[/url] I'm just not sure what kind of threading the propane tanks have and what you're attaching it too. Also, you may as well just use regulated CO2/air at this point, it'll probably be cheaper in the long run. [editline]30th January 2012[/editline] Also, nothing is going to puncture a propane tank, padding's a good idea but its really not important. Most people run tanks in Hydration pouches and the like just for convenience in carrying them.
not issue anymore
Feed me questions about internals. Also was thinking about doing an internals megathread extraordinaire
Jat for internals section of new sticky. Ps how give good shimjob :quagmire:
Hey jat, I'm going to grease my gears soon. afaik i can use non petroleum based white lithium grease, or silicon grease, correct?
I guess that idea is out then. I guess my new questions is such; I just got my KWA G17 That I bought off ASF, and the mags fill really slow, as in there is no gas expelled and little noise from the tank. Is this my adapter or the mag? I have a Sapien Arms ABS Adapter.
[QUOTE=Kath;34471933]I guess that idea is out then. I guess my new questions is such; I just got my KWA G17 That I bought off ASF, and the mags fill really slow, as in there is no gas expelled and little noise from the tank. Is this my adapter or the mag? I have a Sapien Arms ABS Adapter.[/QUOTE] It is most likely your adaptor/propane tank. Either your tank is running low on propane, your adapter is not screwed on tight enough to properly depress the tank's valve, or you aren't pushing the nozzle in far enough to the mag. Just to be 100% sure, you are filling the mag up upside down right? [editline]30th January 2012[/editline] With glocks it can help to remove the baseplate to get proper access to the fill valve.
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;34471769]Jat for internals section of new sticky. Ps how give good shimjob :quagmire:[/QUOTE] lots of lube :quagmire: The best way is start with the spur gear Attach the motor cage or w/e, just make sure the motor is in the spot where it would normally be until you have solid contact between the pinion gear (motor gear) and the spur. There should be almost no gap. Then shim the rest of the gears from there. Teeth should line up perfectly. For the top half shim until there is no play in the gears. The gears should spin freely. As far as lube :quagmire: goes, I use the mystery black madbull stuff. There's a small debate about white lithium grease, but you shouldnt be too worried about that. Put white lithium where there is any metal on metal contact. Food grade silicone goes in the cylinder only. Also . Also I use a dab of that in the anti reversal latch hole to keep it there while im assembling the gearbox. permatex dielectric grease also goes well in the cylinder, and I've used permatex white lithium on the gears before. Both can be found at autoshops and the food grade silicone can be found at most hardware stores and some auto parts stores [editline]30th January 2012[/editline] dont buy systema shims either, they're not consistently the correct size. I use brometheus shims, but they're just disks of metal you can order off mcmaster if you feel like.
So the gears should slow to a stop when shimmed properly and spun? The gears seem to spin like once or twice and come to an abrupt stop when I have the shims on (no lube:quagmire:) and they don't rattle when I shake the gearbox with both shell halves on. Do good? All I have now are the factory shims and my grandpa is bringing me more tomorrow.
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;34472099]So the gears should slow to a stop when shimmed properly and spun? The gears seem to spin like once or twice and come to an abrupt stop when I have the shims on (no lube:quagmire:) and they don't rattle when I shake the gearbox with both shell halves on. Do good? All I have now are the factory shims and my grandpa is bringing me more tomorrow.[/QUOTE] You want as little play as possible, but you'd rather have a little play and have them spin freely than have them too tight
well lube is very thick and sticky :quagmire:so it will slow the gears down anyways... You should be most worried about full contact between the teeth. Like none of the teeth should be only making partial contact when they mesh. This puts unneeded strain on the teeth and is why helical gears are a pain in the ass to shim. The gears shouldnt make any metal grindy noises when you spin them, and you shouldnt be able to really push them up or down(along the axle axis) much.
They make kind of a rattly noise when I spin them, but I'm not sure if its from contact with unlubed shell or each other. I'll check once I get my new air nozzel and can completely shut the gearbox.
when your shimming the only thing you need in the gearbox are the gears. In fact I usually strip everything else out anyways. They should be pretty quiet when you spin them unless they're retardedly cheap gears.
[QUOTE=Jat Goodwin;34472213]well lube is very thick and sticky :quagmire:so it will slow the gears down anyways... You should be most worried about full contact between the teeth. Like none of the teeth should be only making partial contact when they mesh. This puts unneeded strain on the teeth and is why helical gears are a pain in the ass to shim. The gears shouldnt make any metal grindy noises when you spin them, and you shouldnt be able to really push them up or down(along the axle axis) much.[/QUOTE] From what you're saying, my gearbox was in good shape out of the box.
Stock dboys gears, they're steel. They make a tiny bit of grindy noise with nothing else in. I just don't want them grinding and jamming again, not neccesarily a 2938107401709 BPS gun.
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