His mouse has angle snapping, hence the pixel perfect horizontals. Whether he decides to keep using a mouse or not, he should definitely not use that particular mouse.
[QUOTE=Wickerman123;47191909]Nothing wrong with drawing with a mouse. A few people in my class can do it. One guy spent years with a mouse and he can do amazing stuff. Only downside is he got a Carpel Tunnel and only recently got enough strength back to hold a pencil.
Carpel Tunnel is the only reason not to draw with a mouse but it takes a lot of time for it to develop.
Radaghast, try and get your hands on PaintToolSAI as that has a really nice smoothing feature - it will eliminate your wobbly lines.
Although if you plan on taking this up and sinking time in, get a tablet.
[editline]22nd February 2015[/editline]
Photoshop also has a smoothing plugin you can get - I forget what it's called.[/QUOTE]
Smoothing doesn't work when I use the mouse in SAI, only works with my tablet
[QUOTE=Radaghast;47191825]Yeah might buy a tablet ,or just go for photoshop (why not both)[/QUOTE]
This is very good if you want a free alternative to ps
[url]https://krita.org/[/url]
But I think you should probably stick to paper right now
[QUOTE=Skwee;47191975]Smoothing doesn't work when I use the mouse in SAI, only works with my tablet[/QUOTE]
Oh. That's shit.
[QUOTE=Jallen;47191978]This is very good if you want a free alternative to ps
[url]https://krita.org/[/url]
But I think you should probably stick to paper right now[/QUOTE]
krita also has smoothing with the freehand tool, and even works with mouse
here's a quick circle test with my mouse
[t]http://i.imgur.com/355lBIZ.png[/t] (you can customize the settings of weighted)
I think even a cheaper, entry-level tablet is going to serve you much better than a mouse. And pencil and paper are great even if you have a tablet, it's a whole other skill but the base knowledge still sort of transfers to the other one.
[QUOTE=Wickerman123;47191909]
Photoshop also has a smoothing plugin you can get - I forget what it's called.[/QUOTE]
Probably thinking of Lazy Nezumi
Took a crack at drawing the Best Friends Zaibatsu.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LZmPyxTh.jpg[/IMG]
The dude on the left is wearing a scarf, correct? You may want to define it a little better because I initially thought he had a super thick neck with a ton of neckbeard.
[QUOTE=Sega Saturn;47192917]The dude on the left is wearing a scarf, correct? You may want to define it a little better because I initially thought he had a super thick neck with a ton of neckbeard.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, its a scarf. Thanks for the heads up
[QUOTE=Detlef;47191640]I think I need to bring out my good ol' advice, try not to use a transparent brush when painting, set it to 100% opacity. While it's scary in the beginning, try to use solid shapes.[/QUOTE]
What is the general technique for painting with 100% opacity brushes? Seriously I have no idea im too used to opacity jitter
try blocking in big shapes first, then get down to details
Felt like trying to paint something from life, so I painted my bedroom door.
I can't stop seeing how bad my perspective ended up being.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/zDvH1mW.png[/img]
Brush opacity omg it's an age old debate.
I use a combination of solid brushes, pen-pressure-opacity and manually set opacity, depending on what I'm doing. Sometimes I want a lazy in between colour to pick from, so I'll set my brush to 50% opacity, do a stroke over another colour, pick it and then maybe manually make some adjustments if I need it more or less saturated. A lot of my colour comes from trial and error - I think I have a ways to go until I know and can use colour with a full background knowledge (what you'd need with traditional painting) of colour theory.
It takes a while to figure out when each of these is appropriate, and I don't know what the best way to learn this. Go with the advice to use a solid brush for now, but maybe set your brush to pen pressure opacity with the minimum value of 80% so you get some sort of a painterly effect with a bit of overlap/bleeding/mixing going on. I dunno, when I imagine painting a whole image with [I]purely[/I] solid strokes I can't imagine anything great.
Newbie here, got a drawing pad and need help & criticism
So I tried drawing a futuristic combine cyclops knight basically.
[img]http://www.wduwant.com/index_uploads/uploads/b006b354.jpg[/img]
Seems to be totally screwed up, how do I draw metals/plate armor? Any tips welcome.
From what I've seen in previous posts it seems the way people draw is first the background is selected for the sky, then people apply large dark brushes, then the smaller ones, and then people also have some kind of a color palette. Tried drawing snow with three paths, one descending, one ascending, one going into the distance.
[IMG]http://www.wduwant.com/index_uploads/uploads/d153396098de.jpg[/IMG]
Please criticize and give tips. I would love to learn more about various drawing tutorials which could help. I also have a question, when you draw characters, do you first draw an outline with like a sharp 1px brush and then draw over it or do you use a big brush to basically pick the darkest color and color in a character and only then proceed to draw ontop of it?
does anyone have that problem where you just can't finish a single piece and the wips keep piling up?
[QUOTE=Crazy Knife;47195289]Please criticize and give tips. I would love to learn more about various drawing tutorials which could help. I also have a question, when you draw characters, do you first draw an outline with like a sharp 1px brush and then draw over it or do you use a big brush to basically pick the darkest color and color in a character and only then proceed to draw ontop of it?[/QUOTE]
You should try using bigger brushes and blocks of color for your details. Drawing with small brushes like that makes it look noisy and scribbly. As far as drawing characters goes, some people prefer to do line art first, and some people like to block in large shapes of color and add detail from there. It's down to personal style and what you are more comfortable with, but most people here will suggest you don't do outlines.
I don't have any good tutorials on hand but a lot of others here do, they also can probably provide better criticism
[QUOTE=Jericho_Rus;47196250]does anyone have that problem where you just can't finish a single piece and the wips keep piling up?[/QUOTE]
For me... I just spend too much time on one piece and never move onto the next one...
[QUOTE=Maloof?;47195064]Brush opacity omg it's an age old debate.
I use a combination of solid brushes, pen-pressure-opacity and manually set opacity, depending on what I'm doing. Sometimes I want a lazy in between colour to pick from, so I'll set my brush to 50% opacity, do a stroke over another colour, pick it and then maybe manually make some adjustments if I need it more or less saturated. A lot of my colour comes from trial and error - I think I have a ways to go until I know and can use colour with a full background knowledge (what you'd need with traditional painting) of colour theory.
It takes a while to figure out when each of these is appropriate, and I don't know what the best way to learn this. Go with the advice to use a solid brush for now, but maybe set your brush to pen pressure opacity with the minimum value of 80% so you get some sort of a painterly effect with a bit of overlap/bleeding/mixing going on. I dunno, when I imagine painting a whole image with [I]purely[/I] solid strokes I can't imagine anything great.[/QUOTE]
Id recommend for you too to up your opacity and choose colors instead of randomly picking them, your paintings have a muddy feel to them.
That really depends I think. If I want smooth gradient, I use semi transparent brush (pressure sensitive)
If I want to define shape, I use 100% opacity brush, or just do 100% pressure on my tablet.
[QUOTE=duckmaster;47191798]Well there is your problem, you're drawing with a mouse.[/QUOTE]
I just used mouse in photoshop to draw the same shape.
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/23hksci.png[/IMG]
Don't think it's problem with mouse in general.
NOTE: it's a Logitech G500 mouse, perhaps precision and resolution matter as well.
[editline]23rd February 2015[/editline]
cheating with the pen stroke tool to trace over as perfectly smooth bezier curves.
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/n3ophl.png[/IMG]
Don't have my tablet handy to test.
How large you are drawing matters too.
[t]http://puu.sh/g9xpC/9ff322af0e.jpg[/t]
Top one was zoomed out and bottom one was zoomed in.
same thing using paint.
other than edge-aliasing issue, I don't find it too jaggy looking
[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/6nt66w.png[/IMG]
[editline]23rd February 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Skwee;47197784]How large you are drawing matters too.
[t]http://puu.sh/g9xpC/9ff322af0e.jpg[/t]
Top one was zoomed out and bottom one was zoomed in.[/QUOTE]
In that case, it's definitely sampling resolution.
three factors...
1) Mouse resolution
2) Screen resolution (zoom level)
3) canvas resolution (actual pixel count)
[QUOTE=Maya2008;47196962]That really depends I think. If I want smooth gradient, I use semi transparent brush (pressure sensitive)
If I want to define shape, I use 100% opacity brush, or just do 100% pressure on my tablet.[/QUOTE]
Your work looks to have a lot of the the same techniques as maloof, a lot of your colors are muddy.
Now speaking to anyone interested:
I made two spheres, one where I picked fresh colors and used full opacity with pressure sensitivity, and one where I used 50% opacity and picked most of the colors within the sphere from dark to light. No matter what I did on the right sphere, my colors became muddy, dull and inbred. the vibrancy was lost.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/NUd9Pm6.png[/IMG]
another tip, do not use black (or nearly gray black) as your base for shadows, then pick from there to paint gradient shadows elsewhere, that's like a recipe for muddy gray work.
I see this in almost every painting here, so try to avoid it if you guys can, pick your colors too often than too few, and don't inbreed the colors you picked.
the cast shadow in the pic is going the wrong way, just ignore it it's just there to ground the spheres.
I see what you're saying about picking colours, but are you also saying that pressure opacity is better than manual opacity?
with pressure opacity you can get full opacity if you press hard enough depending on your tablet setting, with the manual you have to do several strokes to reach a fully opaque value
I haven't really used pressure opacity at all since I watched a Feng Zhu video back when I was starting out where he said that he uses manual opacity and recommended others do the same, actually to avoid muddy values and to remain closer to traditional painting -
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaH_WlD_rP4&t=12m7s[/url]
12:07 to the end of the video (about 3 mins total) is the part I'm talking about.
I'm not saying this to argue btw, I'm genuinely interested as I've been using manual opacity exclusively and if I could improve my painting / improve my practice at all by making a change like this it's worth it.
In my opinion, a lot of Feng's work suffers for it. Most of his work comes off very messy and muddy to me.
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