Say you are using Fair use and say you are using it as commentary about the show.
...on your guitar.
...and is totally for no profit
[QUOTE=hypno-toad;21956366]I believe 20th century fox would have copyright ownership of that. They'd force Google to mute the guitar.
I'm making some of these to sell, you know (not this one, though, it's for me :smile:)[/QUOTE]
i'd buy one
actually, depends, where do you live, and how much would one similar to the one you made in this thread cost. (but witouth the ebony fretboard, just do maple or something).
PM me
edit:
oh canada, that's a bit far isn't it
Do a sound test
Can't.
I've got a camera (though, the charger has vanished...) but there's no chance in hell I'm recording without the amp having a microphone in front of it. Always sounds like ass through the camera's mic. I've tried recording through my computer, but the sound clips really easy.
No matter how loud or quiet the amp is, the camera never really seems to record any high or low frequencies.
you could get a line 6 pod gx, i got one and its not to bad its the sound clicks or stutters increase the bit rate, the only problem with them is the amount of lag.
How much do they cost?
i brought mine for about £80 off dolphin music
[URL="http://img9.imageshack.us/i/1001024v.jpg/"][IMG]http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4862/1001024v.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Finished :buddy: The locknut has given it a bit more twang, and I changed to .009's. it's sounds fucking awesome. A lot of fun to really play hard on it. I spent a painstaking 2 hours polishing each fret individually, so string bending is as smooth as butter.
Will be selling this one in a matter of days. selling this one to a friend who saw it and wanted it, so I'll let her give it a bit of a trail run. I'm a bit suspicious about the sturdiness of the locking nut at the moment (had to make some modifications to it) so we'll see how it holds up during the trial period. Just to be safe I removed the whammy bar for the duration of the trail period...
Looks sick! Though the headstock looks a little weird.
I don't get why people keep saying that. It's the stratocaster headstock with very few changes. May be because you can't see all of it in that picture.
It looks fairly fat width wise. Probably the picture.
Also hypno how hard it is really to customize a prebuilt guitar?
I want buy say a shitty epiphone or ibanez or basically anything with the guitar shape I want and just get all the parts I want swapped outta it into it.
On a scale of 1/10 how hard is that?
I doubt I'd do the wiring for the pickups and stuff
[QUOTE=hypno-toad;22209321]I don't get why people keep saying that. It's the stratocaster headstock with very few changes. May be because you can't see all of it in that picture.[/QUOTE]
The headstock is the same size but the tuners on yours are closer to the edge than on a Strat, so it looks bigger. Plus it doesn't have a decal on it to take up the space
The only reason it looks slightly too wide in that picture is because of the clips holding it to the wall, giving the impression that there's more of the headstock behind it. If you took a picture of the whole thing from the top down it'd look fine. I think.
Pretty nice looking though.
[QUOTE=hypno-toad;22209321]I don't get why people keep saying that. It's the stratocaster headstock with very few changes. May be because you can't see all of it in that picture.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Dopey Trout;22214917]The headstock is the same size but the tuners on yours are closer to the edge than on a Strat, so it looks bigger. Plus it doesn't have a decal on it to take up the space[/QUOTE]
Pretty much that. Also because it isn't maple it also looks weird.
[QUOTE=Dopey Trout;22214917]The headstock is the same size but the tuners on yours are closer to the edge than on a Strat, so it looks bigger. Plus it doesn't have a decal on it to take up the space[/QUOTE]
There's a better explanation. It's using Grover tuners, so sacrifice must be made.
[editline]07:57PM[/editline]
[QUOTE=En-Guage V2;22212865]Also hypno how hard it is really to customize a prebuilt guitar?
I want buy say a shitty epiphone or ibanez or basically anything with the guitar shape I want and just get all the parts I want swapped outta it into it.
On a scale of 1/10 how hard is that?
I doubt I'd do the wiring for the pickups and stuff[/QUOTE]
You just want to swap hardware? Changing the pickups would be pretty easy, changing the bridge and tuners might need a tiny bit of work, probably a 4/10 give or take depending on your skill (though, not much is required).
[QUOTE=peterson;22209525]It looks fairly fat width wise. Probably the picture.[/QUOTE]
He probably tried to do the CBS style headstock
[img]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_tNu78SMKH6I/SGuGNJa902I/AAAAAAAAAoM/lKZw0CePrqA/s320/fender+cbs+headstock.gif[/img]
No, I did the pre-cbs (pretty close) taken from last page
[IMG]http://rfrocks.com/guitars/1960StratHeadstiock.jpg[/IMG]http://rfrocks.com/guitars/1960StratHeadstiock.jpg[/img]
[IMG]http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7466/1000987p.jpg[/IMG]
There's some extra length at the headstock heel for the locking nut.
How is the tension over the nut without the string tree? Are you using staggered tuners?
There's a low mounted locking nut, no need for a string tree.
How do you adjust the truss rod, there is usually a hole near the nut, where is yours?
pic to demonstrate:
[img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Fender_Stratocaster_Headstock.jpg/800px-Fender_Stratocaster_Headstock.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=hypno-toad;22218963]There's a better explanation. It's using Grover tuners, so sacrifice must be made.
[editline]07:57PM[/editline]
You just want to swap hardware? Changing the pickups would be pretty easy, changing the bridge and tuners might need a tiny bit of work, probably a 4/10 give or take depending on your skill (though, not much is required).[/QUOTE]
I'm doing that at the moment, its fairly easy, most of the effort lies in acquiring the parts. It becomes infinitely harder if you want to apply a new paint job to the guitar - I'm hand sanding, its taken weeks and now its winter in Australia, I can't get outside to do it.
Still, its worth it if you get a nice paint job to start with.
[QUOTE=Siminov;22227365]How do you adjust the truss rod, there is usually a hole near the nut, where is yours?
pic to demonstrate:
[img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cc/Fender_Stratocaster_Headstock.jpg/800px-Fender_Stratocaster_Headstock.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
At the heel of the neck.
[QUOTE=nardix;22228982]At the heel of the neck.[/QUOTE]
Yup.
Neck needs to be removed prior to adjustment. A bit inconvenient, but can't make holes like that if I don't have the tools.
[editline]10:19AM[/editline]
[QUOTE=killerteacup;22228034]I'm doing that at the moment, its fairly easy, most of the effort lies in acquiring the parts. It becomes infinitely harder if you want to apply a new paint job to the guitar - I'm hand sanding, its taken weeks and now its winter in Australia, I can't get outside to do it.
Still, its worth it if you get a nice paint job to start with.[/QUOTE]
A few tips about paint. Always use [B]flat[/B] colors. Often those semi-gloss and "satin" paints have latex in them or something, and it does not react well at all with the solvents in lacquer. It's hard to find colored spraypaints in flat or matte. Black and White almost always come in flat. Seems a lot of guitar modders like Krylon products, so maybe they react ok with laquer... (I can't verify that for certain, though)
Also, choose your lacquer wisely. Being that you live in Australia I cannot recommend any good Lacquers (I don't know what you have there). I use Watco brand (I recently found a new place that supplies it) the Watco lacquer is nitrocellulose based. Nitro is the best lacquer you can use for a guitar in terms of performance. If you have a sister in the house (or a mom), and she has nail polish, take a whiff of it to get the smell. Almost all nail polishes contain Nitrocellulose (you should check the ingredients to be sure)
Alkyd, Acrylic, Water-Based, and Poly all smell quite different. Nitro has a distictive smell, like I said, nail polish ussually uses it as the prime ingrediant because it dries and cures quickly, so if you need a smell reference, use nail polish. I used Alkyd on my last project, and I'd say avoid it. It doesn't dry very hard in thick coats. If it's a very cheap laquer, and it's from a generic paint brand, there's a good chance it's Alkyd, or Poly. As a warning, being that all lacquers are toxic, don't take deep whiffs :v:
The reason I'm talking about the smell is because hardly any lacquer brands will show their composition on the can or container. You'll have to identify it yourself, and I highly recommend you use a good lacquer.
Here's my preferred brand
[IMG]http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/624468_front200.jpg[/IMG]
it also comes in larger containers for brush-on application.
If worst comes to worst, there's also this black-label varathane "professional." The black label version contains lots of fancy danger labels (and their other stuff doesn't), so there's a chance it's nitro, or at least a good laquer anyways. It's not polyeurthane, so it's either acrylic or nitro (the later is better, but acrylic is also good).
[IMG]http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/Y100081_4.jpg[/IMG]
Anyways, I hope this helps you a bit.
Awesome strat man!
Whats the next project? i would love to see you make a 3 humbucking black beauty les paul!!
He needs to make a Flying V, but I think toad said no already to that one.
Maybe a Les Paul one?
An Explorer type body?
A jaguar!
make a bass
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