Gear discussion thread v. "I got some new gear and I got to post it here" - General

[QUOTE=/B/rother;45386086]i'm considering it, i think i found a used one for about $150. its either gonna be the pancake or the 50 1.4[/QUOTE] i'd say they're almost opposites in a way - use the 40mm if you want overall sharp images without shallow dof; use the 50 1.4 if you want shallow dof it's sharp as shit even wide open as well, and flare is very well controlled also it's way cheaper [editline]15th July 2014[/editline] and it's [I]tiny[/I]

[QUOTE=Biscuit-Boy;45391621]What is veiling haze? [editline]14th July 2014[/editline] Also I forgot to the flashlight through it and am now at work but at first glance it looked completely clear and very sharp :([/QUOTE] the glowy outline on points that are supposed to be in focus. the detail is still there, but the haze makes things look not sharp (can be helped by upping clarity in lightroom) honestly your samples aren't much different than I would expect from a 50mm wide open. not quite as good, but certainly believable. try focusing on a farther away subject and see what happens then.

I wouldn't be worried about it if it weren't for the fact that my older photos with the same lens look so much cleaner. I'll probably have to save up and have it serviced at some point. Oh well.

to be honest I think buying a 2nd hand might be cheaper than having it serviced

They're going for about $300 on eBay at a glance, service looks to be about $100+, obviously it could be less or more depending on what the issue is and it appears to be pretty major. I have actually now looked through it with a light and it looks flawless from both ends to the naked eye, apart from small flecks of dust that reappear several minutes after cleaning anyway. Absolutely zero scratches, no smudges, just little pieces of dust. Ugh, I might as well start saving for a 50 1.2 with how little photography I do though. Working minimum wage I'll have enough saved up by the next time I actually do any serious photography.

Found a Nikon 75-150mm f/3.5 at a pawn shop for ~$70. Assuming it's in decent condition, does anyone know if that's a fair price?

Would buying a nikon 50mm 1.8d AF be worth it? Or should I go for the dump and get the newer 1.8G? I'm getting sick of the pink chromatic aberration that the 35mm 1.8g has at f/1.8 with light, so I'm hoping that maybe the 50mm would be a bit better in terms of reducing CA but I mean, the price of it over here is $230 or so also forgot to throw in, I'd be putting it on the body of a Nikon D3200, so the AF would work if I got just the 1.8d I looked at pictures and there doesn't seem to be much difference between the two

The D would not autofocus on your camera. The G is a significantly better lens in terms of optical performance and AF (faster and quiter). The D is smaller and cheaper, but it won't autofocus on your d3200 so there's not much reason to get it. Also there will probably be just as much CA with the new lens (probably more if you get the D version), it is just a consequence of harsh contrast in out of focus areas. Post processing can clean it up, but pretty much all lenses have it (pretty much the only two that won't are the Voigtlander 125mm f2.5 APO lanthar and the Leica 50mm f2 APO Summicron). Easiest thing to do is to stop down your lens a bit, that should get rid of it. It really isn't that avoidable if shooting wide open with large aperture lenses.

[QUOTE=Trogdon;45417945]The D would not autofocus on your camera. The G is a significantly better lens in terms of optical performance and AF (faster and quiter). The D is smaller and cheaper, but it won't autofocus on your d3200 so there's not much reason to get it. Also there will probably be just as much CA with the new lens (probably more if you get the D version), it is just a consequence of harsh contrast in out of focus areas. Post processing can clean it up, but pretty much all lenses have it (pretty much the only two that won't are the Voigtlander 125mm f2.5 APO lanthar and the Leica 50mm f2 APO Summicron). Easiest thing to do is to stop down your lens a bit, that should get rid of it. It really isn't that avoidable if shooting wide open with large aperture lenses.[/QUOTE] Fair enough, thank you for the advice. I suppose stopping down wouldn't be that much of a difference, unless I'm going into higher numbers. I don't always usually shoot wide open anyway on most portrait shots. Though, the person whom I used to do portraits of recently broke up with me. So that puts a stamper on things for me, I thought about just doing street photography, and looking at the DigitalRevTV's review of "Why you need a 50mm lens" or such, I figured I could do that. Although I have to say Kai(sp?) can be somewhat arrogant. Also drops bodies like they're nothing. Always something to think about I suppose.

[QUOTE=Covalent;45418147]Fair enough, thank you for the advice. I suppose stopping down wouldn't be that much of a difference, unless I'm going into higher numbers. I don't always usually shoot wide open anyway on most portrait shots. Though, the person whom I used to do portraits of recently broke up with me. So that puts a stamper on things for me, I thought about just doing street photography, and looking at the DigitalRevTV's review of "Why you need a 50mm lens" or such, I figured I could do that. Although I have to say Kai(sp?) can be somewhat arrogant. [B]Also drops bodies like they're nothing.[/B] Always something to think about I suppose.[/QUOTE] because he works for one of the largest online camera stores in HK. he can afford to paint leicas pink and drop L lenses :v:

[QUOTE=.Lain;45418307]because he works for one of the largest online camera stores in HK. he can afford to paint leicas pink and drop L lenses :v:[/QUOTE] Lucky bastard, haha. I can afford an L Lens, but I'd go into debt and forget about going to school! It kind of makes me wonder, he has all this knowledge, but yet when I look at his pictures, they're almost comparable to what people on here could do.

the ones he puts in his videos aren't typically that great tbh. the stuff on his flickr is much more cherrypicked and a better representation also some people here take pretty amazing shots, so being on par couldn't be all that bad :wink:

the best way to deal with aberrations like ca and stuff is to not care about them especially, get ur photos to the point where it doesn't really matter if they have ca or are a lil distorted or a lil oof or w/e

Rule #1: Subject Matter trumps pixel peeping (see example that bigfoot photo lol) Rule #2: If something looks bad, just say it's your "style" and that no one else understands Rule #3: There is no such thing as too much HDR Rule #4: Besides rule number 1, these aren't very good rules

ended up getting that 75-150 for sixty bucks, pretty happy with it :D

I found an a7 for $1100 with only 580 shots and my credit limit is $3500 Omg I might pull the trigger

worst case scenario you sell your body and become a drug dealer for a few weeks. especially worth it for an a7 IMO. :rock:

It's only two weeks pay, but I'm trying to save up to buy a home. Although that is going to take quite a bit of time, and I need good credit before then so this would help for that

I messaged the guy, fingers crossed it works out!

Memory card slot has jammed on my T3i. Between that and a bunch of hot pixels I'm taking the camera in today on warranty for a replacement. I wonder if they've made any updates in the past year.

[QUOTE=communistcat;45390690]I've got a Yashica Mat124G Twin Lens Reflex I'm selling for £90 because theres a very minor fault, it makes a slight grinding noise when advancing film [editline]14th July 2014[/editline] I should've added £90 is including post to the UK[/QUOTE] i buyed it [editline]18th July 2014[/editline] i actually can't hear the grinding noise, are you sure it wasn't just the noise of the paper backing of the film?

Didn't end up getting the a7 (was sold to someone else), but I don't mind waiting for another low price. I guess I'll see what other cameras they offer this year as well

^ yeah man I want to see the 2nd generation of FF mirrorless, I'm hoping other brands are gonna step it up but most likely not

No other brand will have one this year, calling it now. The only brand I would suspect to be working on one is Samsung, but that's just conjecture. Sony has at least another full year of lead, probably not until 2016 will anyone try and compete. I'm just hoping for a more a6000 alike FF, the form factor of that seems better than the a7.

Dammit. Instead of replacing the camera they took it in to repair it. Told me to expect a call in 3-4 weeks :suicide:.

[QUOTE=Trogdon;45430923]No other brand will have one this year, calling it now. The only brand I would suspect to be working on one is Samsung, but that's just conjecture. Sony has at least another full year of lead, probably not until 2016 will anyone try and compete. I'm just hoping for a more a6000 alike FF, the form factor of that seems better than the a7.[/QUOTE] If Samsung does poop one out it'll probably be more of a case of "because we can" and not actually that great a camera. Payday next thursday awwwwww shiet.

[QUOTE=Eltro102;45430367]i buyed it [editline]18th July 2014[/editline] i actually can't hear the grinding noise, are you sure it wasn't just the noise of the paper backing of the film?[/QUOTE] I'm not sure, good to hear that you can't hear the noise. Have fun with it

I just bought a Canon EOS Rebel T3 with the 18-55mm lens. It's not the best, but it was all I could afford. Plus it was on sale. It is my first DSLR.

so ive been comaparing the minolta cle vs the leica cl and i think that the cle is a cooler camera, but the cl is the way to go. All manual, and cheaper. Smaller too. The cle doesn't do metering and manual shooting at the same time, and the electronics are know to fail. The cl comes with single coated lenses usually though, so i think i'm gonna by a cle 40mm f/2 and get a cl for the body. But if a good combo of either the cle with the 40mm mc or the cl with the 40mm sc, i'll try to nab it. First paycheck first though! Any advice?

As a wildcard suggestion consider a Hexar AF?