Gear discussion thread v. "I got some new gear and I got to post it here" - General

On my way home from Rotterdam, bought a few rolls of AGFA XPS and Elitechrome from frag4life and also went to Calumet to pick up a roll of Portra 400 (in my Olly now) and I picked up 2 rolls of BW400CN as well since that's being discontinued. [editline]22nd September 2014[/editline] [IMG]http://s4.postimg.org/4hh296h0d/film.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Kabstrac;46047848]I'd like a few of the Pentax limited primes on a full frame Pentax[/QUOTE] [IMG]http://oi39.tinypic.com/eanmed.jpg[/IMG] bling bling

[QUOTE=FlippR;46046498][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/l3DaIRd.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] Wtf is that

Pentax Spotmatic with what looks like a Super-Takumar 50mm f1.4 lens

That lens thing has to be a Aero-Ektar lens still mounted in it's camera mount. Camera is a Pentax S1a or SV.

Has anyone ever heard of a sensors noise performance degrading over time? My 6D is now at 211k shutter actuations, with I'd say 80% of those actuations between 4000 and 10000 iso maybe it's just me but I'm sure its been slowly getting worse, it probably needs a service to be honest with all the stuff I've done to it

i've never heard of it and can't say i've observed it, but i have barely broken 30k on my cameras [editline]22nd September 2014[/editline] man i love the idea of having a high-mileage camera

maybe you've gotten better at spotting noise now?

Shouldn't have more noise, perhaps if the heating is bad and cooling isn't functioning it could be worse, but unlikely.

pour vodka over it, the rapid evaporation of alcohol will cool it

ive been shooting with the nifty fifty for 2 years on crop so my dream lens is anything wider tbh

I have a couple of questions. Why did the 30mm f1.4 infamously misfocus regardless of if the camera says it was in focus or not, the AF system is looking through the same lens the sensor is. Surely if it was still out of focus then the AF system would tell the AF motor to keep spinning until it was in focus. Was this because the lens would focus and the AF motor would stop then the lens would shift slightly after the AF motor stopped or because the AF motor kept moving after the camera told it to stop? Also what is stopping lens manufacturers from making lenses like the 35mm f1.4 for APS-C cameras by having basically the same lens as before but focusing the image circle like the metabones speed booster does. If you wanted the same DoF but shot APS-C then you'd need a 23mm f0.95. You'd also gain an extra stop of light.

the lens could have issues inside that mean it believes the image is sharp, when really it's focusing on a piece of dirt/smudge/optical problem inside the lens [editline]23rd September 2014[/editline] because how else will people upgrade to full frame?

It's not the lens that's controlling the focusing or judges whether or not it is in focus though. If it's a piece of dirt then why is the misfocusing so consistent between Sigma 30mms?

The new voigtlander 10.5mm f0.95 hnnnng [editline]23rd September 2014[/editline] or I'd like a set of like 3 of the professional cine lenses

[QUOTE=codenamecueball;46050515] man i love the idea of having a high-mileage camera[/QUOTE] surprisingly the body doesn't even look that bad at all, it's missing the top of the mode dial but otherwise with a quick clean it looks more or less new the seals underneath all of the buttons etc would be a different story however, many a time a drink has been spilt and dried making the buttons sticky

[QUOTE=Roll_Program;46053338]I have a couple of questions. Why did the 30mm f1.4 infamously misfocus regardless of if the camera says it was in focus or not, the AF system is looking through the same lens the sensor is. Surely if it was still out of focus then the AF system would tell the AF motor to keep spinning until it was in focus. Was this because the lens would focus and the AF motor would stop then the lens would shift slightly after the AF motor stopped or because the AF motor kept moving after the camera told it to stop? Also what is stopping lens manufacturers from making lenses like the 35mm f1.4 for APS-C cameras by having basically the same lens as before but focusing the image circle like the metabones speed booster does. If you wanted the same DoF but shot APS-C then you'd need a 23mm f0.95. You'd also gain an extra stop of light.[/QUOTE] good condensing lenses are expensive

So it's not just a case of moving most of the lens elements closer to the image sensor and refocusing? Is that why Leica lenses are so expensive, because they're a lot closer to the image plane than DSLR lenses?

lower tolerances, less space, more complex designs and smaller bits of glass whilst maintaining the best quality. i'm not expert but i imagine that isn't easy

[QUOTE=Roll_Program;46056113]So it's not just a case of moving most of the lens elements closer to the image sensor and refocusing? Is that why Leica lenses are so expensive, because they're a lot closer to the image plane than DSLR lenses?[/QUOTE] Leica lenses are pricey because of the exotic glass elements, tight tolerances, handmade build, and low volumes. Plus there's a good premium because of quality, but the prices aren't entirely unwarranted In terms of the sigma 30mm not focusing well, I think it has something to do with the actual movements of the lens, since phase is calculated by two rangefinder elements essentially, so the lens being out of focus in the first place doesn't make a lens not able to focus. Then the camera tells the lens how much it needs to move to be in focus, but it's just not accurate based on the lens+camera combo. It's not just that lens, and more of a pitfall of PDAF in general. I have had to micro adjust a lot of lenses, even so I have yet to get accurate focus wide open with most all focus systems I've used

[QUOTE=codenamecueball;46056375]lower tolerances, less space, more complex designs and smaller bits of glass whilst maintaining the best quality. i'm not expert but i imagine that isn't easy[/QUOTE] Knew that, I meant on to of being high quality. [editline]24th September 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Trogdon;46057114]Leica lenses are pricey because of the exotic glass elements, tight tolerances, handmade build, and low volumes. Plus there's a good premium because of quality, but the prices aren't entirely unwarranted In terms of the sigma 30mm not focusing well, I think it has something to do with the actual movements of the lens, since phase is calculated by two rangefinder elements essentially, so the lens being out of focus in the first place doesn't make a lens not able to focus. Then the camera tells the lens how much it needs to move to be in focus, but it's just not accurate based on the lens+camera combo. It's not just that lens, and more of a pitfall of PDAF in general. I have had to micro adjust a lot of lenses, even so I have yet to get accurate focus wide open with most all focus systems I've used[/QUOTE] Probably because most cameras use a system where the phase AF determines how much the lens motor has to spin to get the lens in focus then tells it to do that, rather than keeps it spinning until it is in focus. I was wondering because Fuji have a "closed loop" process which is meant to keep the AF hunting until focus is confirmed, so there's no AF errors. [editline]24th September 2014[/editline] So I found out that open-loop, where it determines how out of focus the lens is then tells the AF motor how much to spin, is faster but liable to inaccuracy if the lens is built to low tolerances, so most cameras use that. Closed loop being where the lens hunts for focus then stops when focus is detected by the camera, accurate but slower, good for shooting fast primes but not if speed matters. So if you were using an older mirrorless camera with contrast detection AF, then you'd have no problems if you used the 30mm, because that's a closed loop system.

Iirc all CDAF systems are closed, the only way to get accurate focus is to detect the point of highest contrast and not actual distance which phase does. Basically meaning that it will rock back and forth until it achieves maximum contrast on the focus area, giving the sharpest results

[QUOTE=Trogdon;46062254]Iirc all CDAF systems are closed, the only way to get accurate focus is to detect the point of highest contrast and not actual distance which phase does. Basically meaning that it will rock back and forth until it achieves maximum contrast on the focus area, giving the sharpest results[/QUOTE] Yep, slower and doesn't work in very low light, but more accurate. I always used phase detection thinking it was always better but I'm gonna be switching it up depending on the scenario now, like if I'm shooting a still subject at f1.4 in good light.

At f1.4 it probably uses CDAF mostly anyway, most on sensor PDAF systems just offer assistance but not outright focus. I do vastly prefer CDAF though, my Nex 5 and Sigma 30mm 2.8 combo delivers perfectly sharp shots in daylight, much better than SLR systems I've used.

Yeah I've found myself getting more sharp shots wide open with fast lenses. Totally sold on mirrorless.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/XRWZZHy.jpg[/IMG] I CANT STOP THE DORK

[url]http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1426622&p=46063871#post46063871[/url] FP photography census

So I'm looking to get my first zoom lens. Any affordable recommendations? (I have canon eos)

18-55mm kit

[QUOTE=RobbL;46064336]So I'm looking to get my first zoom lens. Any affordable recommendations? (I have canon eos)[/QUOTE] Short zoom or a telephoto?