Gear discussion thread v. "I got some new gear and I got to post it here" - General

Is there anything I can do if the photos are coming out really harsh and contrasty?

[QUOTE=garychencool;41462287]I don't know why but aperture priority mode on a 60D can be very annoying. Sometimes it over exposes and sometimes it underexposes. Messing with the exposure dial all day. Sometimes I would have to go +2 and-1 on the same subject...[/QUOTE] same with most cameras, nowt you can do about it but shoot manual when the opportunity arises

[QUOTE=garychencool;41462287]I don't know why but aperture priority mode on a 60D can be very annoying. Sometimes it over exposes and sometimes it underexposes. Messing with the exposure dial all day. Sometimes I would have to go +2 and-1 on the same subject...[/QUOTE] never had this problem, what metering more are you using/ are u using a linear polarizer [editline]15th July 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=notlabbet;41464125]Is there anything I can do if the photos are coming out really harsh and contrasty?[/QUOTE] turn down contrast in image style settings menu thing shoot raw (so it doesn't apply any image styles) calibrate your monitor (doesn't have to be perfect, a software one should be enough) if you're shooting b/w use a yellow or orange filter instead of red

[QUOTE=garychencool;41462287]I don't know why but aperture priority mode on a 60D can be very annoying. Sometimes it over exposes and sometimes it underexposes. Messing with the exposure dial all day. Sometimes I would have to go +2 and-1 on the same subject...[/QUOTE] Do you have it on spot metering, average metering, or center weighted average? I was using average metering and I had the same issue until I started using spot metering or center weighted average.

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41464125]Is there anything I can do if the photos are coming out really harsh and contrasty?[/QUOTE] negative film is usually pretty contrasty from what I've shot, i would try doing a slight overexposure (0.3 to 0.5 stops) and see how that works, you would get more highlights but less direct blacks. are you getting contrasty prints or scans? I've noticed a lot of my prints directly from the negatives come out less grainy (than my scans) but much more contrasty. Scans you can get more dynamic range out of, but the print labs don't really put a lot of effort into making your prints look great these days as film prints aren't as common.

[QUOTE=Trogdon;41470882]negative film is usually pretty contrasty from what I've shot, i would try doing a slight overexposure (0.3 to 0.5 stops) and see how that works, you would get more highlights but less direct blacks. are you getting contrasty prints or scans? I've noticed a lot of my prints directly from the negatives come out less grainy (than my scans) but much more contrasty. Scans you can get more dynamic range out of, but the print labs don't really put a lot of effort into making your prints look great these days as film prints aren't as common.[/QUOTE] I got scans. Oh wait. I think its my monitor. I was looking at them on my old mac (its the only computer I have with a disk drive and a internet connection) but I uploaded them to flickr and and now they dont look so bad on my laptop.

[QUOTE=FalseLogic;41468744]Do you have it on spot metering, average metering, or center weighted average? I was using average metering and I had the same issue until I started using spot metering or center weighted average.[/QUOTE] I was using evaluative metering. I'll give other metering a try.

Anybody know of a film processing unit thats actually affordable? The only ones I can find are really industrial units that process up to eight reels of film and have a ton of features I don't really need - for amateur film development. Anything affordable, just so I don't have to set up a darkroom, I really only need to develop one reel at a time, and i'm just using an old 35mm camera and I don't need the shots to be crystal clear. The most inexpensive one I could find (Industial) was $1000, anything cheaper out there?

[QUOTE=flamehead5;41478101]Anybody know of a film processing unit thats actually affordable? The only ones I can find are really industrial units that process up to eight reels of film and have a ton of features I don't really need - for amateur film development. Anything affordable, just so I don't have to set up a darkroom, I really only need to develop one reel at a time, and i'm just using an old 35mm camera and I don't need the shots to be crystal clear. The most inexpensive one I could find (Industial) was $1000, anything cheaper out there?[/QUOTE] [IMG]http://d1d720fc788644e7741c-4c8f3bda41357bc1f1e24bf21513dbab.r79.cf2.rackcdn.com/477bc619a91c424537eae85542566.jpg[/IMG] you just need this and a changing bag

[QUOTE=flamehead5;41478101]Anybody know of a film processing unit thats actually affordable? The only ones I can find are really industrial units that process up to eight reels of film and have a ton of features I don't really need - for amateur film development. Anything affordable, just so I don't have to set up a darkroom, I really only need to develop one reel at a time, and i'm just using an old 35mm camera and I don't need the shots to be crystal clear. The most inexpensive one I could find (Industial) was $1000, anything cheaper out there?[/QUOTE] Are you looking for something that can process color film, b&w film, or both?

Does anyone have a vivtar film slr? They can do multiple exposures, which I find intriguing. Might buy one for the ol' collection, unless they are bad quality. ALSO, I was looking around for a affordable medium format camera and came across this: [img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3187886270_f34f23b524.jpg[/img] The Mamiya 645E. It uses 120 film and you can get the whole package, body and lens, for $350. Why is it so cheap? It looks good, and I'm really tempted to get this than new tires :v:

[QUOTE=Bigboy855;41481395]Are you looking for something that can process color film, b&w film, or both?[/QUOTE] It would honestly be better if I could do both, but at this point I'll take the cheaper alternative (Whichever one that is)

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41482889]Does anyone have a vivtar film slr? They can do multiple exposures, which I find intriguing. Might buy one for the ol' collection, unless they are bad quality. ALSO, I was looking around for a affordable medium format camera and came across this: [IMG]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3187886270_f34f23b524.jpg[/IMG] The Mamiya 645E. It uses 120 film and you can get the whole package, body and lens, for $350. Why is it so cheap? It looks good, and I'm really tempted to get this than new tires :v:[/QUOTE] 6x4.5 cameras are generally pretty cheap

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41482889]Does anyone have a vivtar film slr? They can do multiple exposures, which I find intriguing. Might buy one for the ol' collection, unless they are bad quality. [/QUOTE] What model(s) Vivitar are you talking about? I have an older 220/SL, which I love. It doesn't have multiple exposure capability though, but it's a pretty well built, all metal, full manual SLR. Only problem is the battery for metering, but since I have a handheld meter for my MF cameras I've stopped buying those batteries.

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41482889]Does anyone have a vivtar film slr? They can do multiple exposures, which I find intriguing. Might buy one for the ol' collection, unless they are bad quality. ALSO, I was looking around for a affordable medium format camera and came across this: [img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3187886270_f34f23b524.jpg[/img] The Mamiya 645E. It uses 120 film and you can get the whole package, body and lens, for $350. Why is it so cheap? It looks good, and I'm really tempted to get this than new tires :v:[/QUOTE] if you're fine with a rangie 120 cam you can get some for a cheaper than that

[QUOTE=flamehead5;41483257]It would honestly be better if I could do both, but at this point I'll take the cheaper alternative (Whichever one that is)[/QUOTE] A few people in this forum develop b&w and I think one person develops their own color film. Color film is a lot harder to develop because the temperatures of the chemicals must be kept in a certain range while developing. Petapixel has an article on this: [url]http://petapixel.com/2012/10/26/how-to-process-your-c-41-film-at-home/[/url] I believe the cheaper and easier process would be to develop b&w. Here's a list of things that you'd need to buy, I don't think it's missing anything but personally I would get a stainless developing tank and reel off of Ebay [url]http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/03/10/build-a-film-developing-kit-for-under-50/[/url] I've been considering to develop my own film but I've got a lab in town that will do it for $3.50 in two days. But in a month or so I'll be at uni and have access to a full darkroom and I will develop my own b&w and color. Hope this helps.

[QUOTE=Killerelf12;41483431]What model(s) Vivitar are you talking about? I have an older 220/SL, which I love. It doesn't have multiple exposure capability though, but it's a pretty well built, all metal, full manual SLR. Only problem is the battery for metering, but since I have a handheld meter for my MF cameras I've stopped buying those batteries.[/QUOTE] The v3800 was what i was looking at. [editline]16th July 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=Eltro102;41484701]if you're fine with a rangie 120 cam you can get some for a cheaper than that[/QUOTE] I like the waist level finder though...

Anyone think its worth spending money on one of these? [IMG]http://filmphotographyproject.com/sites/default/files/uploads/content/Videos/PolaroidInstant/Polachrome_1_.jpg[/IMG] Would this be an easier way of processing film? Is this all I would need?

[QUOTE=flamehead5;41487339]Anyone think its worth spending money on one of these? [IMG]http://filmphotographyproject.com/sites/default/files/uploads/content/Videos/PolaroidInstant/Polachrome_1_.jpg[/IMG] Would this be an easier way of processing film? Is this all I would need?[/QUOTE] whats so hard about doing it by hand?

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41487407]whats so hard about doing it by hand?[/QUOTE] I really just don't have the space

you can get one of these [img]http://static.bhphoto.com/images/multiple_images/item_images/IMG_141747.jpg[/img] which will run you about 20-30 bux, or, if you have a bathroom, get some trashbags and duct tape and seal it off for a roll. Personally, I've never tried it, but from what I've learned, it sounds very easy.

[QUOTE=notlabbet;41486781]The v3800 was what i was looking at. [editline]16th July 2013[/editline] I like the waist level finder though...[/QUOTE] get a tlr??

What would be a good macro lens for my Canon 500D (EF and EF-S mount)? Not expensive and good for a first lens (besides kit lens). I have 3 choises, all of these are under 120 euro: Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di LD Macro Tamron AF 55-200mm f/4.0-5.6 Di II LD Macro Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro I want to do macro shots of plants and insects during daylight.

None of those are really "macro" lenses per se. Like they will all focus down to 1:2 (1cm in real life will be 2cm on the sensor of your camera), but they only do so when fully zoomed in. This means that you will be zoomed in to 300mm which is extremely tight on a crop sensored camera and the minimum focusing distance will be about a foot. The lenses don't have very wide apertures meaning you need slow shutter speeds, they won't have very much in focus unless you stop down which loses more light, and lastly you would need about a 1/500th shutter speed in general without a tripod to avoid motion blur from using such a tight angle. You will need a tripod for most macro shooting if you go with one of these. They need a lot more light than is typically probable, making them seem like a decent macro choice, but in theory not working too well. However the working distance is quite nice for insects, and smaller focal lengths will require you to get closer to get the same magnification than long ones. I have used a Tamron 70-300 before and it was a good lens, and I'm sure the sigma is too. I haven't heard anything about the 55-200 tamron however. I would look for macro shots using these lenses on Flickr and see how other people got their shots and if they look good, so you can get an understanding of how the lenses would work in the field. Personally I would look into the Canon 50mm f2.4 macro, it also focuses to a 1:2 ratio, but has a brighter aperture and smaller focal length which will make it easier to work with for close up shots without a tripod (lets in more light, and needs a slower shutter to not be blurry as it is a wider angle). The only reason I would shy away from this is if you want a zoom lens, or if you would like to be farther away from the things you photograph, this lens you will need to be much closer than a foot to focus as close as the other lenses.

[QUOTE=Eltro102;41491691]get a tlr??[/QUOTE] Not as many interchangeable parts on a TLR. You can get much better glass on a SLR, too.

[QUOTE=flamehead5;41487339]Anyone think its worth spending money on one of these? [IMG]http://filmphotographyproject.com/sites/default/files/uploads/content/Videos/PolaroidInstant/Polachrome_1_.jpg[/IMG] Would this be an easier way of processing film? Is this all I would need?[/QUOTE] This film processor only works for a special kind of polaroid film back then. It doesn't work with current market film. That kind of polaroid film isnt made anymore because it was expensive, and it also kinda sucked quality wise. There is no compact way to get your film processed automaticly. Even the smallest minilab is the size of a small fridge. So you'll have to either process it yourself, or just get it processed at a shop.

[QUOTE=Trogdon;41494635]Wall of text.[/QUOTE] Well a fast shutter speed is required because I want the least movement possible, not only by me but also by the wind or insects. But the Canon is too pricey for now (250 euro). I'll go for a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II which is 95 euro now and save up some money for that macro lens. Thanks for the heads up

u could get a reversing ring or extention tubes if you want to do macro stuff with the nifty fifty meanwhile

I read somewhere that the Gh1 has better video than Canon EOS dslr is that true for that specific camera?

GH2 or GH3 I would say yea, but not GH1. EOSHD has kind of a hard on for Panasonic and aren't entirely accurate. But a hacked GH2 pushes ungodly bitrates and is super sharp and moire free video. GH3 is even better out of the box.