Gear discussion thread v. "I got some new gear and I got to post it here" - General

-snip- [editline]11th September 2013[/editline] i love you all [IMG]http://puu.sh/4oVCb.png[/IMG] [editline]11th September 2013[/editline] the best part is that I now like 50 or 60 bucks left over that I can now either save or buy other things i need like maybe a new card, extra batteries (still not sure about nikon firmware disabling non-nikon battery thing), bigger bag

[img]http://distilleryimage10.instagram.com/811a34301b6911e3acce22000a9f15d8_7.jpg[/img] shutter dial repaired, lens cap screws tightened, ttl metered finder, wood grip and a more comfortable strap

So i'm planning on buying a t3i for general video making soon and I was wondering how the stock lenses are? I'm also not sure which one i should get, the 18-135mm lens or the 18-55mm lens.

[QUOTE=TonyTheBean;42192207]So i'm planning on buying a t3i for general video making soon and I was wondering how the stock lenses are? I'm also not sure which one i should get, the 18-135mm lens or the 18-55mm lens.[/QUOTE] 18-135mm.

[QUOTE=The Salmon;42162667][img]http://distilleryimage10.instagram.com/811a34301b6911e3acce22000a9f15d8_7.jpg[/img] shutter dial repaired, lens cap screws tightened, ttl metered finder, wood grip and a more comfortable strap[/QUOTE] Is it possible to use the Pentax 67 ground glass like the hasselblad waist level finder?

Pretty sure it is

[QUOTE=Nsybouts;42192518]18-135mm.[/QUOTE] Thanks. Would it be worth it for a beginner to just buy only the body and get a different lens?

[QUOTE=Desuh;42192665]Is it possible to use the Pentax 67 ground glass like the hasselblad waist level finder?[/QUOTE] yes

I'm building a control pad for a pan and tilt unit (uses 6v from four AA batteries) and I have two extra buttons left I'm considering using for focus and shutter control of my T3i. Problem is that the entire control pad has one signal ground. You think it will hurt if the T3i and the pan and tilt share the same common ground? It does not seem to be directly coupled to battery ground.

[QUOTE=TonyTheBean;42193751]Thanks. Would it be worth it for a beginner to just buy only the body and get a different lens?[/QUOTE] I would just get a kit lens first and learn how to shoot film. If you want a new lens after that go for a prime lens, since you have a body with crop factor (most likely 1.6) I'd go with either a 35mm or 28mm since 50mm will be too narrow after the crop.

[QUOTE=Zeemlapje;42198975]I would just get a kit lens first and learn how to shoot film. If you want a new lens after that go for a prime lens, since you have a body with crop factor (most likely 1.6) I'd go with either a 35mm or 28mm since 50mm will be too narrow after the crop.[/QUOTE] Agreed, the kit lens is a great tool to learn what you really want to get out of your photography and then you buy a lens that suits your needs.

[QUOTE=TonyTheBean;42192207]So i'm planning on buying a t3i for general video making soon and I was wondering how the stock lenses are? I'm also not sure which one i should get, the 18-135mm lens or the 18-55mm lens.[/QUOTE] The 18-135mm is better because you get better focal range, since it's a variable aperture zoom lens, the aperture doesn't stop down as fast as the 18-55mm. [url]www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/18-135mm.htm#maxap[/url] Also the focus ring feels so much better because of it's size and shape, it's much smoother which allows you to do smoother focus pulls during video. It's not cheap plastic rubbing on more cheap plastic like the 18-55 or the 50mm f/1.8 II canon. It is a lot easier to attach a follow focus on the 18-135 than the 18-55. The 18-55 has a weird focus ring that moves back and forth. If anything was to touch the front of the lens, it would mess up your focus and zoom (which I found out many months ago when filming at an event). TL;DR: Get the 18-135mm

just stumbled upon a fully funtioning (albeit I cant find the battery charger) Minolta Maxxum SPxi with Minolta Maxxum 2000xi Flash and 28-80mm lens. helllooo film photography [editline]16th September 2013[/editline] found spare batteries, someone enlighten me on film shooting and what I need to do [editline]16th September 2013[/editline] [URL=http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/dwt110/media/null_zpsde16ca47.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o644/dwt110/null_zpsde16ca47.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

the spxi should be nice, it has automatic features mostly so it should be choosing most things for you. if you buy any 35mm film and load it up you should be good to go. not the best lens but it should be fun to mess around with, if you look on craigslist you could probably find more maxxum stuff for cheap.

im guessing the batteries last hella long considering they are $6 a piece and non rechargable

yeah they should last like a year at least, and through many rolls

got a broken om-10 for a fiver yesterday (shutter curtains are a mess), but it came with a nice olympus strap and case, and even had the manual adaptor on it, so yay! and of course yet another nifty fifty

[QUOTE=Zeemlapje;42198975]I would just get a kit lens first and learn how to shoot film. If you want a new lens after that go for a prime lens, since you have a body with crop factor (most likely 1.6) I'd go with either a 35mm or 28mm since 50mm will be too narrow after the crop.[/QUOTE] 50mm isn't really "too narrow" after crop and it might be better price wise since the Canons nifty fifty is like a hundred bucks, it costs much less than the 28mm f/1.8 USM at $500 or the 35mm f/2 at $300. These are all Canon's versions, other lens brands have their own versions.

50mm after crop is ~85mm, this is a portrait lens - traditionally used for literal portraits which are just headshots. It's worth the extra dishles to get a standard prime that is within versatile range (28-50mm).

[QUOTE=The Salmon;42224100]50mm after crop is ~85mm, this is a portrait lens - traditionally used for literal portraits which are just headshots. It's worth the extra dishles to get a standard prime that is within versatile range (28-50mm).[/QUOTE] Some people disagree and say that the 50mm is not a portrait lens. [video=youtube;nG1pN5Vic8E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nG1pN5Vic8E[/video]

On APS-C it basically is, it's a rather tight perspective to shoot with as your main lens. I mean I've done it before, but 75mm-80mm is not the best length to be stuck at for "all purpose".

[QUOTE=Trogdon;42224723]On APS-C it basically is, it's a rather tight perspective to shoot with as your main lens. I mean I've done it before, but 75mm-80mm is not the best length to be stuck at for "all purpose".[/QUOTE] In the video, the guy said that it doesn't matter if you're shooting FF or crop on a 50mm, it still distorts things. There also isn't really an "all purpose" lens unless some lens maker makes an 10-1000mm f/1.2 L IS USM, blah, blah, blah. Shooting wide is much easier though.

[QUOTE=garychencool;42225167]In the video, the guy said that it doesn't matter if you're shooting FF or crop on a 50mm, it still distorts things. There also isn't really an "all purpose" lens unless some lens maker makes an 10-1000mm f/1.2 L IS USM, blah, blah, blah. Shooting wide is much easier though.[/QUOTE] How would a 50mm distort things when it's the closest you get to the human perspective?

you can easily use the 50mm on crop as a normal lens to take photos of things

[QUOTE=Eltro102;42227083]you can easily use the 50mm on crop as a normal lens to take photos of things[/QUOTE] Well for my intents and purposes, 50mm on crop is just too tight to be "a normal lens to take photos of things"

[QUOTE=garychencool;42223828]50mm isn't really "too narrow" after crop and it might be better price wise since the Canons nifty fifty is like a hundred bucks, it costs much less than the 28mm f/1.8 USM at $500 or the 35mm f/2 at $300. These are all Canon's versions, other lens brands have their own versions.[/QUOTE] That's why you buy vintage prime lenses: manual apperture & focus and they're dirt cheap if you know where to look. I found a 28mm and 50mm for 10 euro each once, too bad the seller never replied back. Mount adapers are dirt cheap too, just buy them from China. [QUOTE=garychencool;42224667]Some people disagree and say that the 50mm is not a portrait lens. [video=youtube;nG1pN5Vic8E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nG1pN5Vic8E[/video][/QUOTE] Oh fuck not this guy again [QUOTE=Eltro102;42227083]you can easily use the 50mm on crop as a normal lens to take photos of things[/QUOTE] Yes but if you are stuck with 1 lens for shooting video then you want to have a wide angle because you are most likely not going to stand more than 5 meters from your subject.

[T]http://i.imgur.com/cazO2EN.jpg[/T] 10mm lens came in today

[QUOTE=Zeemlapje;42227392] Oh fuck not this guy again[/QUOTE] So what's "wrong" with this guy? [quote] Yes but if you are stuck with 1 lens for shooting video then you want to have a wide angle because you are most likely not going to stand more than 5 meters from your subject.[/quote] That's why video with zoom lenses is almost always the best choice

[QUOTE=garychencool;42225167]In the video, the guy said that it doesn't matter if you're shooting FF or crop on a 50mm, it still distorts things. There also isn't really an "all purpose" lens unless some lens maker makes an 10-1000mm f/1.2 L IS USM, blah, blah, blah. Shooting wide is much easier though.[/QUOTE] He's objectively wrong though. It's the same angle of view, and distance from subject so it's exactly the same perspective. That's why compact cameras aren't distorted to hell and back. The center doesn't have rectilinear distortion. If you take a portrait with a 10mm lens from far away and crop it in the subjects perspective won't distort And a walk about lens would be the one that could do the most things you want to do, and I think having to be far from your subject is limiting.

don't present opinion as fucking fact.