The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?" - General

300mm barrel possibly. Weight of bb? Standard m4 length barrel is 360mm or so. You're significantly shorter than what would be normal.

[QUOTE=draugur;40458746]300mm barrel possibly. Weight of bb? Standard m4 length barrel is 360mm or so. You're significantly shorter than what would be normal.[/QUOTE] Barrel length is 90% irrelevant in airsoft. The only issue you could have is a really long barrel with a cylinder of the wrong type.

Yeah, I found the problem. My piston appears to be missing 9 teeth.

How did that happen?

I wish I knew. Everything else inside is pristine, haven't even really fired it all that much.

[QUOTE=the_killer24;40456177] cold if you get an airsoft innovations propane adapter it'll come with a tip that'll allow you to use computer duster gas (it's 134a)[/QUOTE] Note: not all duster gas is 134a. DO NOT use 153a or 143a

So, I want to turn my WE High Capa 5.1 into an awesome CQB sidearm. (which, it already kind of is) I'm interested in better reliability, better range, and possibly a faster cycling rate. What should I buy and what effects would it have?

[QUOTE=Joetehpsycho;40467780]So, I want to turn my WE High Capa 5.1 into an awesome CQB sidearm. (which, it already kind of is) I'm interested in better reliability, better range, and possibly a faster cycling rate. What should I buy and what effects would it have?[/QUOTE] Shortstroke it and maybe stronger recoil spring for faster cycling rate, new bucking and barrel for range.

Would a stronger recoil spring put more strain on the gun? And, none of these mods would make my gun shoot over 350 FPS, right?

So, I put the new piston into my VFC. Everything looks fine, nothing's out of place, but if I try to fire it with the motor in it, it locks up on the first trigger pull. The piston compresses the spring all the way, and if I pull the trigger again, you can hear it try to turn. Motor in it is a G&P M120, and it's worked 100%. Any ideas?

[QUOTE=Joetehpsycho;40467972]Would a stronger recoil spring put more strain on the gun? And, none of these mods would make my gun shoot over 350 FPS, right?[/QUOTE] The recoil spring will only make the slide return quicker and nothing more. None of those mods should increase FPS.

[QUOTE=Joetehpsycho;40467972]Would a stronger recoil spring put more strain on the gun? And, none of these mods would make my gun shoot over 350 FPS, right?[/QUOTE] Neither would make the gun shoot over 350(they shouldn't at least.) The recoil spring will make the gun return to battery quicker, shouldn't really put anymore strain since it's a metalslide. Short-stroking will just reduce the distance the slide travels, you won't have your slide catch working properly though.

[QUOTE=JimmyA;40470013]Short-stroking will just reduce the distance the slide travels, you won't have your slide catch working properly though.[/QUOTE] This catches my interest. How does one shortstroke their pistol? The slide catch on mine doesn't function anyway so short-stroking it would be pretty neato.

[QUOTE=GREN EYGS N HAM;40470057]This catches my interest. How does one shortstroke their pistol? The slide catch on mine doesn't function anyway so short-stroking it would be pretty neato.[/QUOTE] could put a spacer on the spring so that it fully compresses sooner.

[QUOTE=GREN EYGS N HAM;40470057]This catches my interest. How does one shortstroke their pistol? The slide catch on mine doesn't function anyway so short-stroking it would be pretty neato.[/QUOTE] You put a little buffer between the end of the guide rod and the recoil spring. Some guide rods come with the piece already, but basically what you're doing is increasing the minimum size of your spring, so there's less free space for the slide to move backwards. You want something rubbery so that it help absorb shock, but other than that there's nothing to really worry about.

this would also give the spring more pressure, so it would be like an upgraded spring aswell

Alright, neato. I'll try this and see how it feels. Does this also decrease the gas consumption since it doesn't cycle all the way?

Just got my KWA USP Match :D It's a lovely gun other than the hideous orange tip at the end of the barrel. Is there any safe way to remove it?

[QUOTE=GREN EYGS N HAM;40470132]Alright, neato. I'll try this and see how it feels. Does this also decrease the gas consumption since it doesn't cycle all the way?[/QUOTE] No, because there's no limiter being placed on the gas parts. You're using the same amount of gas to do less work per shot, so your gas consumption will remain the same. This is also why you want your buffer to be able to absorb some shock, because same energy with less work = more stress.

[QUOTE=Zeeky;40470159]Just got my KWA USP Match :D It's a lovely gun other than the hideous orange tip at the end of the barrel. Is there any safe way to remove it?[/QUOTE] Give pictures and we can tell you how to remove it.

[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Ak3kWp4.jpg[/img_thumb]

Ah, worst luck of the painted orange :( I was hoping it was just a plastic piece you could snap off. There are a few solutions but none that aren't guaranteed to stip off the paint underneath as well.

What hop up bucking should I get for my High Capa?

[QUOTE=Biscuit-Boy;40470514]Ah, worst luck of the painted orange :( I was hoping it was just a plastic piece you could snap off. There are a few solutions but none that aren't guaranteed to stip off the paint underneath as well.[/QUOTE] Up close it looks like it has kind of a seam, but maybe it's just from the paint. The barrel feels a little like plastic but I'm not sure if it is or not.

[QUOTE=Joetehpsycho;40470547]What hop up bucking should I get for my High Capa?[/QUOTE] Nineball purple. Look on airsoft atlanta

[QUOTE=Joetehpsycho;40470547]What hop up bucking should I get for my High Capa?[/QUOTE] Nineball.

[QUOTE=Zeeky;40470582]Up close it looks like it has kind of a seam, but maybe it's just from the paint. The barrel feels a little like plastic but I'm not sure if it is or not.[/QUOTE] Yes, that's just the cutoff where it was taped off to paint. I would assume your barrel is some sort of lightweight metal, although I've been confused by how light or warm they feel as well before. Anyways your only real hope is paint solvents/thinners of different sorts, but most will likely take off the paint underneath, so unless there's a technique I'm not aware of you'll have to decide if you'd rather have orange paint or no paint on your muzzle. You could paint over it but it's not quite the same.

[QUOTE=Biscuit-Boy;40470627]Yes, that's just the cutoff where it was taped off to paint. I would assume your barrel is some sort of lightweight metal, although I've been confused by how light or warm they feel as well before. Anyways your only real hope is paint solvents/thinners of different sorts, but most will likely take off the paint underneath, so unless there's a technique I'm not aware of you'll have to decide if you'd rather have orange paint or no paint on your muzzle. You could paint over it but it's not quite the same.[/QUOTE] I'll give the paint remover/nail polish remover a shot. If that ruins it then perhaps I'll find some after-market part from somewhere that doesn't require an orange tip EDIT: So I disassembled it and the outer barrel is definitely plastic. Is polish remover still safe to use on it?

If that's the case I'd first sit in disappointment for a few minutes, and then go online and look for a metal replacement outer barrel.

Is that a KWA USP Match? With a plastic outer barrel? (I'd heard they were the shit, that's kind of upsetting)