The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?" - General

I've heard good things about Kalinka Optics, but don't quote me on that, it was a long time ago.

[QUOTE=apoctank;44681580]Best source for real deal?[/QUOTE] Kalinka Optics. More expensive than ebay but most definitely worth it.

Alternatively the Real Sword PSO-1 is entirely excellent, but will probably cost you about as much as a real one. Just like everything RS makes, there's entirely a chance that its actually made out of real weapons/weapons quality parts, but it will always be of top quality.

Would a POSP be good?

[QUOTE=ShadowSocks8;44681525]Anyone know of a site where I can still get my hands on some PTS midcaps?[/QUOTE] I got a box of Beta Project magpuls from: airsoft-club.com in china.

[QUOTE=MrSaphique;44684064]I got a box of Beta Project magpuls from: airsoft-club.com in china.[/QUOTE]Aren't Beta Project/Green Label Pmags inferior compared to the 120 round PTS ones though? Might be hard to find nowadays though with PTS being discontinued.

So, im going to rehaul my PKM soon, but never sure what to do about upgrades in my guns (i dont know shit about internal parts or brands) and was wondering what brands you guys recommend? Batou on red-alliance recommends using all Lonex parts: "Also, if you want your PKM to shoot at ~400fps, the Madbull M110 spring works while the Lonex M100 is a bit hot. This is with the following parts: LONEX Cylinder for Marui AK / G3 / M16A2 AEG LONEX Aluminum Cylinder Head for Ver.2 Gearbox LONEX POM Ventilation Piston Head LONEX Enhanced AEG Piston ( 10 Steel Teeth ) LONEX Steel Enhanced Ball Bearing Spring Guide for Gearbox Ver.2 LONEX Air Seal Nozzle for MP5KPDW AEG" What do you guys think? Anyone have any experience with Lonex parts?

Replacing every part in a gun has always seemed like name-brand snake oil to me. Does your choice of spring guide or cylinder [i]really[/i] make that much of a difference? Assuming that the PKM is similar in terms of internal quality to the M60s, I would suggest replacing the motor and hop-up bucking, then check the compression. If the compression is good an M120 should put you right at 400fps and then you should be good to go. You'll probably need to replace the piston at some point (adjusting the angle of engagement on the piston will prolong its life, but it will die sooner or later), but otherwise I don't think there's anything that really needs to be replaced.

[QUOTE=TerrorShield;44684073]Aren't Beta Project/Green Label Pmags inferior compared to the 120 round PTS ones though? Might be hard to find nowadays though with PTS being discontinued.[/QUOTE] That's true, but they are 31 dollars for a box(5pcs). For that price they are not that bad.

I had green labels and they weren't entirely all that bad. Alternatively, cylinder brand might not make a difference, but not all cylinders are created equal. You can do things like re-ream them or lap and polish them, but ones from brands like lonex will usually come like that.

Any of you guys know anything about NOD mounting? I'm trying to see if there's a way to mount a set of Sightmarks to a female bayonet arm mount, but they only have a screw thread. They're dual tubes, so I can't use a J-Arm. I'm thinking of getting a J-Arm and just removing the j part and running a screw and washer straight through the base attached to the male bayonet mount and into the NOD's threads. Anyone know a better way? [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] Ideally, I'd just convert the female bayonet mount on the arm to a Wilcox Dovetail shoe and screw a Dovetail mount straight into the NOD's, but I can't seem to find any female bayonet to dovetail adapters.

[QUOTE=catbarf;44685421]Does your choice of cylinder [i]really[/i] make that much of a difference?[/QUOTE] yeah if you want to have the best possible seal with the cylinder head [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] if you're upgrading compression then you want to upgrade all compression with the same brand of parts to ensure maximum part compatibility and effectiveness

how much would a german desert pattern smock that's actually been to the 'stan worth? not really interested in selling, just curious if downrange time increases or decreases the value of gear.

[QUOTE=catbarf;44685421]Replacing every part in a gun has always seemed like name-brand snake oil to me. Does your choice of spring guide or cylinder [i]really[/i] make that much of a difference? Assuming that the PKM is similar in terms of internal quality to the M60s, I would suggest replacing the motor and hop-up bucking, then check the compression. If the compression is good an M120 should put you right at 400fps and then you should be good to go. You'll probably need to replace the piston at some point (adjusting the angle of engagement on the piston will prolong its life, but it will die sooner or later), but otherwise I don't think there's anything that really needs to be replaced.[/QUOTE] I have one gun that is a mix and match of compression parts and all my others are all lonex. guess what one gun has compression issues on occasion, while the rest are all +/- 1 fps? So yeah, compression parts should always be the same brand. Arguably his spring guide does not have to be lonex, but seeing as this is an lmg, you want a very good spring guide, which the lonex is. i get what youre saying catbarf, and I agree to an extent, but lonex parts really are the best you can get with the bonus of not being horrendously expensive. You should also invest in a high torque motor. The Lonex titan a2 is the best motor you can buy, and its only $50. get a lonex motor and never look back. However, i dont think the m100 springs will put you where you want. On a normal aeg an m100 will put you at 340fps with a good airseal. lmgs use elongated gearboxes meaning you need a heavier spring than you would normally need. As catbarf said, an m120 should do the trick. [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Lt. Munch;44685274]So, im going to rehaul my PKM soon, but never sure what to do about upgrades in my guns (i dont know shit about internal parts or brands) and was wondering what brands you guys recommend? Batou on red-alliance recommends using all Lonex parts: "Also, if you want your PKM to shoot at ~400fps, the Madbull M110 spring works while the Lonex M100 is a bit hot. This is with the following parts: LONEX Cylinder for Marui AK / G3 / M16A2 AEG LONEX Aluminum Cylinder Head for Ver.2 Gearbox LONEX POM Ventilation Piston Head LONEX Enhanced AEG Piston ( 10 Steel Teeth ) LONEX Steel Enhanced Ball Bearing Spring Guide for Gearbox Ver.2 LONEX Air Seal Nozzle for MP5KPDW AEG" What do you guys think? Anyone have any experience with Lonex parts?[/QUOTE] Anyways, yeah, I use lonex in my guns and its honestly the best. Youll want a tougher spring than an m100 tho. Also the lonex titan a2 motor. Oh, and you should get a sorbopad to reduce wear and correct your aoe.

I already own 5 green labels, I was looking for anywhere that still had legit PTS

What is sorbopad and aoe? also for the Lonex Titan motor, should I go with "High torque" or "Torque and speed"? Im guessing probably high torque, as i intent to get a lipo for the PKM and I dont want my rate of fire to expend my ammo too quickly.

[QUOTE=trotskygrad;44687597]how much would a german desert pattern smock that's actually been to the 'stan worth? not really interested in selling, just curious if downrange time increases or decreases the value of gear.[/QUOTE] Not typically. Most of the stuff on eBay and in surplus stores has been used overseas but it's not worth any more. Often less due to damage.

a sorbopad is a thick rubber like pad that replaces the stock padding on your cylinder head. It softens the blow of the piston head and makes the gun quieter. To install it, you remove the padding on the cylinder head using pliers or a razor blade or whatever, get it nice and clean, then apply some super glue or similar product and stick the sorbopad on. AOE is angle of engagement, which is the angle at which the gears begin pulling back on the piston. The sorbopad corrects the aoe by moving the piston back a little so that the gear teeth mesh with the piston teeth correctly. Ive had people think that one of my guns is misfiring because of how quite it is. Go for the high torque so youll have that nice crisp trigger response. What lipos are you planning on getting?

One of the other guys on red-alliance said he uses this one: [url]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21370__ZIPPY_Compact_5000mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html[/url] However it does seem suspiciously cheap, as an 11.1v 4000mah on evike is 60 dollars. There must be some hidden catch.... as you can tell i dont know jack shit about lipos, either. this is all new territory to me.

Okay, that battery may have a large capacity, but its got a relatively low c rating. Plus you may not want the super high rof that the 11.1v will give you. If I were you, get an 11.1v and a 7.4v lipo with a 40+ c rating. [url]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10278__Turnigy_2200mAh_2S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html[/url] [url]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10279__Turnigy_2200mAh_3S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html[/url] plus [url]http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html[/url] all youll have to do is wire your gun to xt60 or make a converter which is very easy.

protip: there's a screw at the bottom of the battery compartment in the box mag that blocks off about a cm of space it's really easy to snip off once you free the mag internals from the shell (again, really easy, just the three philips screws at the bottom and the whole assembly comes right out) [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] also don't get any batteries taller than 10cm unless you want to lose some bb space a pair of [url=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17296__Turnigy_nano_tech_1800mah_3S_25_50C_Lipo_AIRSOFT_Pack.html]these[/url] side by side fills up the whole bay with zero space to spare

Where can I get a good quality CAR-15 style retractable stock like this one? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/a63xh81.jpg[/IMG] [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] never mind

Okay, so definitely a 7.4v, however i want something with mad milliamps per hour, i need a looooonggg lasting battery. what's the 411 on lipo charging? I heard its kinda tricky and they can melt/blow up? and they have special bags you put them in?

not unless you're a supreme idiot use the charger fish posted and it'll all be gud

[QUOTE=Zao Medong;44688751]Not typically. Most of the stuff on eBay and in surplus stores has been used overseas but it's not worth any more. Often less due to damage.[/QUOTE] but are desert fleck smocks common? I don't see them often

I dunno about that specific item. I was just saying that the norm is to lose value after combat.

[QUOTE=Zao Medong;44689247]Where can I get a good quality CAR-15 style retractable stock like this one? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/a63xh81.jpg[/IMG] [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] never mind[/QUOTE] No seriously though this. I see that evike has the third gen retractable stock, but pictured is the second gen. Very similar apart from a few small reinforcements. Long story short the one 2nd gen stock I have is painted tan, and the one on my XM177E1 is a modified 3rd gen. I'd rather have a true 2nd gen on there

Anyone know good places to get ALICE webbing besides Ebay? The set i have right now is all repro stuff with the exception of one or two of the pouches and i'd like to get some legit stuff to replace it. I have nothing against Ebay, i just was wondering if anywhere is cheaper.

since you live in the uke and your local surplus stores might not have alice stuff, I'd say check online US surplus stores. Ebay would still probably be your best bet though, as online retailers would probably charge more [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] heres some cheap mag pouches though [url]http://www.shop.hassayampasurplus.com/product.sc?productId=867&categoryId=36[/url] [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] ebay is still cheaper though

[QUOTE=Zao Medong;44686220]Any of you guys know anything about NOD mounting? I'm trying to see if there's a way to mount a set of Sightmarks to a female bayonet arm mount, but they only have a screw thread. They're dual tubes, so I can't use a J-Arm. I'm thinking of getting a J-Arm and just removing the j part and running a screw and washer straight through the base attached to the male bayonet mount and into the NOD's threads. Anyone know a better way? [editline]30th April 2014[/editline] Ideally, I'd just convert the female bayonet mount on the arm to a Wilcox Dovetail shoe and screw a Dovetail mount straight into the NOD's, but I can't seem to find any female bayonet to dovetail adapters.[/QUOTE] For anyone else who may be wondering this now or in the future, I've just found this. Looks to be an adapter that converts straight from commercial screw threads to USGI bayonet mounts. Perfect. It's a tad pricey, but if I pick it up I'll be sure to post results. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7fpUXBN.jpg[/IMG]