The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?"
8,092 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Zerokateo;44770075]I believe so, that's what they all look like.[/QUOTE]
?
[img]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/32039.jpg[/img]
So I finally managed to shim my gearbox and get it closed after the shimming (which was a pain).
After attaching the engine back it was time to plug in the battery.
Battery goes in, gearbox goes "zoop".
I press the trigger and is only goes "zzzooopp" again, but won't fire the piston.
And then I notice that the engine and battery are really hot. And the engine is smoking!
After a bit of inspection I saw that a spare shim had gotten stuck to the engine due to its magnetic properties.
Can something like that cause the engine to burn up or did I just fuck up with the shimming?
All I know is that the gears moved manually once the gearbox was closed.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
Scratch that!
The engine works still.
Now it's just time to slap the gearbox together and try again without any shims stuck to the engine.
Where do I get good fill valve O-rings for cheap? I've got 5 new WOC mags and not one of them came with an O-ring.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
I tried Moondong ones but they're loose and fly off every time I gas up a mag.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
Also, anyone know which manufacturers produce the stock mags for WOCs? Two of these mags are G&P spec but I don't thing they're G&P manufacture.
One of them is the most beautifully put together mag I've ever seen and the other has "Colt AR-15" trademarks which I think are kinda funny.
So the leads didn't fit anyway.
Today though I kept popping out of cover to my left and hitting my safety causing a lot of awkward moments. Would literally cutting down the selector switch on a g&p m4 be a bad idea?
[QUOTE=Zao Medong;44775292]Where do I get good fill valve O-rings for cheap? I've got 5 new WOC mags and not one of them came with an O-ring.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
I tried Moondong ones but they're loose and fly off every time I gas up a mag.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
Also, anyone know which manufacturers produce the stock mags for WOCs? Two of these mags are G&P spec but I don't thing they're G&P manufacture.
One of them is the most beautifully put together mag I've ever seen and the other has "Colt AR-15" trademarks which I think are kinda funny.[/QUOTE]
I put the Moondog ones on a couple of my P226 mags, they never fly off when I fill them so maybe it depends on the magazine your using
Is Gorka waterproof? I think it is, but I just wanted to confirm.
[QUOTE=RainBD7;44776622]Is Gorka waterproof? I think it is, but I just wanted to confirm.[/QUOTE]
I think someone said water resistant but not waterproof, ie it lets in water eventually. I could be wrong about that though.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=Ermac20;44776417]I put the Moondog ones on a couple of my P226 mags, they never fly off when I fill them so maybe it depends on the magazine your using[/QUOTE]
I guess it does in that case. Too loose for WOC magazines then.
if you're going to roll gork in actual, serious rain best to use a waterproofing spray beforehand
[QUOTE=Sunday_Roast;44771456]So I finally managed to shim my gearbox and get it closed after the shimming (which was a pain).
After attaching the engine back it was time to plug in the battery.
Battery goes in, gearbox goes "zoop".
I press the trigger and is only goes "zzzooopp" again, but won't fire the piston.
And then I notice that the engine and battery are really hot. And the engine is smoking!
After a bit of inspection I saw that a spare shim had gotten stuck to the engine due to its magnetic properties.
Can something like that cause the engine to burn up or did I just fuck up with the shimming?
All I know is that the gears moved manually once the gearbox was closed.
[editline]10th May 2014[/editline]
Scratch that!
The engine works still.
Now it's just time to slap the gearbox together and try again without any shims stuck to the engine.[/QUOTE]
sounds like your shimming is too tight.
put the gears with shims in, but dont put the piston, cylinder, motor, spring, or any of that stuff in and close up the gearbox. only the gears. test that the gears spin freely. if they dont, they are too tight and you need to remove some shims.
once you have done that, make sure you are putting everything back correctly.
[QUOTE=Fish Muffin;44777802]sounds like your shimming is too tight.
put the gears with shims in, but dont put the piston, cylinder, motor, spring, or any of that stuff in and close up the gearbox. only the gears. test that the gears spin freely. if they dont, they are too tight and you need to remove some shims.
once you have done that, make sure you are putting everything back correctly.[/QUOTE]
You might be very correct. As it was surprisingly difficult to keep all the components in place when closing the gearbox.
How do I spraypaint my pistols frame?
As a layman I'd probably just try to tape off the important bits and have at it.
Or you could take it apart and put it back together if you know what your doing
Speaking of which, I just assumed he was going to field strip it at the least. You should definitely field strip it, but I'd definitely be careful if you wanted to completely disassemble it. I've ruined several a GBB that way hehehe.
[QUOTE=theryan11;44783220]How do I spraypaint my pistols frame?[/QUOTE]
Take it apart, don't tape it off.
Hi, first of all thanks for advices about first skrim it went great but had a small/big problem. It was raining allot and kinda every eye protection went fogging. I know it was said somewhere earlier but what goggles do you guys recommend? ess/voodoo? ty!
[QUOTE=Coldnl;44798331]Hi, first of all thanks for advices about first skrim it went great but had a small/big problem. It was raining allot and kinda every eye protection went fogging. I know it was said somewhere earlier but what goggles do you guys recommend? ess/voodoo? ty![/QUOTE]
I'd recommend Revision Desert Locusts or any clone. Immediately upon receiving them, take a knife and dig out all of the foam on the frame. That should be sufficient for most places, but I had to take it a step further and drilled three 5mm holes along each side, and one 3mm hole on each side of my nose. This really increases airflow, but does risk having BB's shatter in to your goggles. It was a necessary mod for playing in the swamps of Florida.
[QUOTE=Herfjotur;44798721]I'd recommend Revision Desert Locusts or any clone.[/QUOTE] Any experience with thermal lenses... do they work?
[QUOTE=Herfjotur;44798721]I'd recommend Revision Desert Locusts or any clone. Immediately upon receiving them, take a knife and dig out all of the foam on the frame. That should be sufficient for most places, but I had to take it a step further and drilled three 5mm holes along each side, and one 3mm hole on each side of my nose. This really increases airflow, but does risk having BB's shatter in to your goggles. It was a necessary mod for playing in the swamps of Florida.[/QUOTE]
Drilling holes in your goggles if it's the lense part is really stupid because you're weakening the plastic.
Not true. Many ballistic goggles of different varieties come with pre-drilled holes for ventilation.
[QUOTE=Kath;44799607]Not true. Many ballistic goggles of different varieties come with pre-drilled holes for ventilation.[/QUOTE]
Some airplanes use pre-drilled holes in structural components to save weight but that doesn't mean you should punch holes in your Cessna and assume it'll work. Just because [i]some[/i] goggles come from the manufacturer with holes already drilled doesn't mean you're perfectly safe in doing a DIY job on just any goggles you have lying around, and it is absolutely true that holes can compromise the impact resistance of a sheet of plastic, because it directs shear stresses around the holes, subjecting the areas between the holes to much higher stress. If they come that way from the factory it's because they've been designed to withstand that higher stress and have been extensively tested.
I wouldn't drill holes in my eyepro. That's playing with fire.
I have a pair of mesh goggles that I keep specifically for use in the rain.
And no, before anyone mentions it, I don't care about the risk of BBs shattering into my eyes. Sometimes you have to take a risk.
[QUOTE=Zao Medong;44801668]I have a pair of mesh goggles that I keep specifically for use in the rain.
And no, before anyone mentions it, I don't care about the risk of BBs shattering into my eyes. Sometimes you have to take a risk.[/QUOTE]
That and a BB fragment is better than a whole fucking BB to the eye.
Switching to deans plugs in the future, what size heat shrink should I get? (from Hobbyking preferably to save shipping). I literally have no idea, 3mm okay? [url]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__44861__Turnigy_3mm_Heat_Shrink_Tube_BLACK_1mtr_USA_warehouse_.html[/url]
[sp]deans vs xt60 debate go[/sp]
What gauge wire do you have on the gun?
[QUOTE=mousecop;44804778]What gauge wire do you have on the gun?[/QUOTE]
No idea, don't even have it right now. Planning for the future. It's a KA v3 gearbox if anyone knows if they use a standard gauge wiring.
Most gearboxes are 16-18 AWG which is 1.29-1.02 mm so 2-3mm heat shink will work since it'll shrink down to size anyway.
xt60: lower resistance, usually cheaper, slightly larger, easier to solder
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