The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?" - General

[QUOTE=Exigent;46421247]Would you guys say this is a decent first Airsoft gun? [url]http://www.evike.com/products/28775/[/url] I've been looking to get into Airsoft for a while now and now that I have the money, I'm looking for a good gun. A friend of mine says I'd be better off with a G&G ([url]http://www.evike.com/products/32944/[/url]) That one to be exact.[/QUOTE] It's a much better idea to get a black gun then dust it or weather it or whatever after painting some bits tan. I have both a G&P and a G&G and they're both great guns. However, the G&P outperforms the G&G greatly. The plastic is fantastic on the G&G, but the G&P is much nicer because it is metal, and good metal at that. I'd take the G&P over it any day.

Yeah, I didn't really like the tan one. Quality wise though the G&P is better? For only an extra $30 I'd like the metal over plastic.

Absolutely. My G&G: [IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t1.0-9/156750_168670353175174_3062830_n.jpg?oh=3b9a1be90eec14ceba177a905e89c602&oe=54EC26BD&__gda__=1424168339_e6171583df6887d69025a9caca117305[/IMG] My G&P: [t]http://i.imgur.com/eBNDJcv.jpg[/t] You can even see the quality difference. [editline]6th November 2014[/editline] HOWEVER mine is an Asian G&P which are slightly different and better than US G&Ps. You'll still be happier with the G&P you're eyeing than with the G&G.

Don't get an Evike G&P, they're shit compared to legit G&Ps. Here's where I get a lot of stuff. They offer discounts to anyone who is a registered user, they have decent sales, and their selection is nice. The fact they're in Hong Kong isn't really that big a deal, your order will still get to you in about a week just like any US retailer. [url]http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/aeg/g-p-hong-kong/index.html?dir=asc&order=price[/url]

How impossible is it to find a GHK AKM? How are they on performance? Do they take real furniture?

They don't seem to be too hard to find overseas (WGC has them, along with their Hephaesteus Custom counterparts), but I've only ever seen 1 US-based retailer that carried them and they have since stopped ordering them. As for the other questions, I have no idea. I've seen somebody put real furniture and a real recoil spring assembly along with real safety lever on theirs, but I don't know how much modification was required. You could check GasGuns.info?

[QUOTE=Malikyte;46421805]Don't get an Evike G&P, they're shit compared to legit G&Ps. [/QUOTE] I don't want to come off as rude, but that's an extreme exaggeration.

ive heard of gears stripping in evike g&ps but thats about it. and the trades arent as good obviously. im assuming they just didnt quite pass qc.

Yes, that's pretty much the only difference. I've owned both, he only difference is the trades and the gears. This doesn't make them "shit". After a couple people on here's gear shaft snapped I brought the past quality control issue to light and now it's been taken to mean that the guns are wildly different and one is shit and the other isn't. They're precisely the same gun aside from the trades and gears, and like I said a few pages back, we're not entirely sure the gears are still a problem.

[QUOTE=Herfjotur;46421311]The G&P is much much nicer. Also please don't get a solid tan gun. [editline]5th November 2014[/editline] I mean, get whatever you like, but take a good hard look at that tan gun before you get it.[/QUOTE] The G&G Tan bodies actually blend quite nicely and have a great tone to them. I looove mine. [IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/v/t1.0-9/544547_1881020458358_1623312746_n.jpg?oh=53ce98d2277e52aec93eae6eda278d32&oe=54DA1856&__gda__=1424618728_d331cdb0f6aef92d7b0e678edcd7b3fd[/IMG] Most anything blends better than black though, basically. Unless you're playing in space. Personally I'm of the opinion that you should get the G&G and upgrade the internals to your liking. I got a hi torque motor and upped the fps, invested in a very nice used Prometheus barrel with the purple bucking and a firefly buffer rubber nub. It's amaaazing. The gun leaves nothing to be desired in terms of durability as previously discussed. IMO it's more durable than a metal body unless we're talking some serious high quality steel, but it will still be more flexible. Function over form, though G&P's are notoriously great internally as well. Wasn't there an issue with Evike's G&P's for a long time, like they were using older gearboxes and swapping out parts so they could sell externals or something? Does anybody remember this? (apparently so, I gotta start reading posts before mine better) You won't be disappointed with either gun, but for sure you have to buy a new inner barrel for the G&G since it's cheapo aluminum.

Shit like that is par for the course with Evike. As far as I know they're still stealing muzzle brakes and other small stuff that's supposed to come with a gun so they can turn around and sell it for a profit separately.

Mhmm. A lot of G&Ps do come with nice flash hiders or whatever, and under the excuse of "muh orange tip", evike removes them and sells them separately. The least they could do is include it in the box like everyone else does

my bizon didn't come with its flash hider either

I'm honestly surprised they don't steal the shitty factory BBs and sell those too.

I can see it now: "Matrix brand premium bbs" Every bb isn't even the same color or weight.

(Yes I know ASMS tends to be crap at times but:) [url]http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/3932-cyma-rpk-lmg-full-metal-airsoft-aeg-rifle-w-bipod-genuine-wood.aspx[/url] (CYMA RPK) Any good? I've been looking at it for a while and have been eh, watching some reviews and it doesn't seem too bad. Only downsides I see is that the battery compartment is microscopic. (By the way, is it just me or does it seem like ASMS just threw a bunch of scam artists into a room full of keyboards and had them start typing descriptions? I mean seriously, some of the crap they write legitimately makes me want to pass on their guns, regardless if it's shit or not.)

so, I'm going to be getting a fast helmet and an NVMT 1x24 monocular for my birthday, does anyone know what kind of mount i need for this thing? Preferably a knock off, or if i can make my own and save $100 let me know. [editline]6th November 2014[/editline] P.S. need to know ASAP

[QUOTE=mousecop;46426257]I can see it now: "Matrix brand premium bbs" Every bb isn't even the same color or weight.[/QUOTE] and yet they'd still be better than ICS bb's

One of my chinglish manuals said, "Remove the bunglesome bb with unjamming rod." Like who translated that to BUNGLESOME?

[QUOTE=7 Layer Dip;46427156]so, I'm going to be getting a fast helmet and an NVMT 1x24 monocular for my birthday, does anyone know what kind of mount i need for this thing? Preferably a knock off, or if i can make my own and save $100 let me know. [editline]6th November 2014[/editline] P.S. need to know ASAP[/QUOTE] To mount it to your hemet or to a gun? If you're looking to mount to the helmet, the NVMT has a threaded hole on top, so you can just buy a Wilcox dovetail shoe ([url]https://www.armsunlimited.com/Wilcox-NVG-Interface-Shoe-Adapter-for-AN-PVS-15-p/14003g01.htm[/url]) and then find a properly threaded screw and some washers at your local hardware store and just bolt the dovetail shoe onto the monocular. At that point it'll be compatible with any mil-spec NOD arm that uses a Wilcox style interface (most of them). You can mount any of those arms to any compatible NVG shroud that you can just screw into the front of the helmet. HK offers repros of a lot of the Wilcox style NOD arms and shrouds, but be warned, they're usually very shitty and extremely heavy, which is a lot worse of a thing than it sounds like when all that weight is craning off your forehead. To be honest, as I've said to a few other people here recently, it's really a massive squandering of god money trying to use a Gen. 1 NOD (like the NVMT) as a head-mounted device. You'll spend at least as much as the optic itself costs buying a workable mounting solution, and once you get it working, you'll very soon realize that Gen. 1 NODs are literally worse than normal human night vision. Your field of view is roughly 15 degrees (ie it's like looking though a scope all the time, but with no magnification), you have to manually adjust the focus every time you look at something, the built in IR light (I don't believe you can disable it on the NVMT) glows like a big red LED, and everything is distorted and difficult to see. Take it from me, I've been around the block with Gen. 1 NODs and mounting systems - it's not worth it. As I've said before, you're much better off not using it at all or just mounting it to a stationary gun. If you're just looking to mount it to your gun, then I apologize for that text wall. You used to be able to buy NVMT 20mm mounting kits online, but Yukon discontinued them awhile back, so it's going to be difficult to find. There's not really a much better way to mount to picatinny rails and keep a reliable zero though, unfortunately.

Hey is it alright to have crap stuck to your motors? Like, I know that magnets can lose their strength after a long time, or it's happened before anyways, but I've always wondered...if you magnetize other objects does the magnet itself lose strength? I've seen workbenches where guys just stick their motors to metal walls and it's always worried me some. Whenever screws fly towards my motors I flip out and pull them off as fast as I can :v: On the subject of bunglesome BB's, I remember someone posting this from ASR lol [img]http://puu.sh/cH0us/3552fa8875.jpg[/img] It was one of the really nice for its time G&G brown .28's. Obviously missed a step in the manufacturing process...

Magnets lose their strength from being rubbed against other magnetic things in the wrong direction. So as long as you're not rubbing your motor up and down on a steel wall you'll be fine.

Yeah, if it's just stuck to something and you generally pull it straight off, you're totally fine.

Anyone know if those new WE PLR-16s can take normal WE M4 internal parts?

Not the bolt carrier at least, it's totally different. Maybe the trigger group?

Is there any functional difference between WE PMAGs and STANAGs?

PMAGs are more cold resistant

What are some great boots? I have Belleville Tactical Research Kiowas and I like the low-profile design. Unfortunately they're really tight and stiff across the front of my foot where the laces are and I'm looking for something more comfortable, probably a mid to 6" boot rather than a full 8" (though not ruling it out) with good ventilation, and not waterproofing. I bought some Merrell Sawtooths and they were chunky as heck, but I inevitably sold them because they were a half size too small for me. [url]http://www.zappos.com/bates-footwear-gx-8-desert-composite-toe-desert[/url] These Bates GX-8's look pretty spiffy. I'd be concerned that they'd get super hot in the summer though...

As anyone here ever worked on a Hexagon ppsh before? I'm having a problem with mine.

[QUOTE=Branflakes;46439661]As anyone here ever worked on a Hexagon ppsh before? I'm having a problem with mine.[/QUOTE] i heard those things are hell internally but amazing externally. [editline]8th November 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=CottonTM;46439020]What are some great boots? I have Belleville Tactical Research Kiowas and I like the low-profile design. Unfortunately they're really tight and stiff across the front of my foot where the laces are and I'm looking for something more comfortable, probably a mid to 6" boot rather than a full 8" (though not ruling it out) with good ventilation, and not waterproofing. I bought some Merrell Sawtooths and they were chunky as heck, but I inevitably sold them because they were a half size too small for me. [url]http://www.zappos.com/bates-footwear-gx-8-desert-composite-toe-desert[/url] These Bates GX-8's look pretty spiffy. I'd be concerned that they'd get super hot in the summer though...[/QUOTE] ww2 era paratrooper boots are the best.