The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?"
8,092 replies, posted
Ah, now that I think about it, that does make sense. It's probably an issue with the charging arm not engaging the sear because of whatever damage it's sustained. For $60 it's worth fixing.
[QUOTE=catbarf;41704275]Ah, now that I think about it, that does make sense. It's probably an issue with the charging arm not engaging the sear because of whatever damage it's sustained. For $60 it's worth fixing.[/QUOTE]
I'm always impressed when someone can identify a problem with something with seeing it in person.
How are VFC's MP5 AEGs?
[url]http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=14989[/url]
How is the ksc glock 18?
Yo, I'm problably getting a G&G GR15 CQB around tomorrow, and figured since it's a pretty A4 gun, I'd pimp it up a little.
Problem is, I don't know how significant the front sight is to the gun's function, or if I'd have to pull out a hacksaw to get it off.
Halp pls
If it's a combat machine, it'll take some doing to remove it
[QUOTE=Fish Muffin;41707233]How is the ksc glock 18?[/QUOTE]
decent
My Combat Machine's front sight was a baby-back bitch to take off. I broke one of my friend's punches doing it, and bent another. You can take that route, or just cut it off if you don't want it. You'll want to put a new one on though just for realism/aiming if you don't have a rail mounted sight to put on instead. Any front sight or gas block should fit.
AFAIK, recent combat machines have the three piece barrel with the fsp molded on to the barrel. Or maybe that's just the raiders.
Found out people have tried to remove the sight on GR15's before, and turns out not only do you have to change the barrel, but also the handguard, and finding a new handguard appears to be a shit job.
Gonna keep the standard sights for now though, if I ever decide to get optics, I'll cut it off or get something elevated most likely.
I got my M16A2 back in a trade, and the fake bolt assembly and bolt release weren't installed, but the gun was reassembled. I tried driving out the pins to field strip it, and they won't budge. Is there something I have to do first in order to drive the pins out? Thanks in advance.
[QUOTE=/Vandy/;41711815]I got my M16A2 back in a trade, and the fake bolt assembly and bolt release weren't installed, but the gun was reassembled. I tried driving out the pins to field strip it, and they won't budge. Is there something I have to do first in order to drive the pins out? Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]
There shouldn't be, unless of course there are screws on the other side of the pins to remove first.
it's g&g so i don't see why there would be
perhaps he fucked up gearbox installation and now the pins are super tight idk
So I skirmished the SG550 for the first time today, had a few teething problems. Wonder if any of you can shed some light on the cause(s)?
Sometimes I'd go to fire a shot in semi and nothing would happen (no noise or anything).
Racking back the charging handle seemed to fix it most of the time (I don't know how since all it does is expose the hop-up - maybe the vibration caused by it springing forward?), sometimes it'd start firing again if I switched it to full-auto and fired a burst, and I had to access the battery tube, take it out and put it back in again with the same battery in for it to work once or twice (without changing the battery out).
Also, even though both batteries were fully changed the night before (I have one of those smart chargers that automatically cuts out when the battery's full), when I switched them over at lunch, the new battery sounded much weaker than the old one. I actually had to switch them back over again.
I'd really like to know why my gun keeps cutting out suddenly, because it seems to pick the worst moment to do so and nearly got me shot several times. The batteries are a lesser concern because I can seem to go for a whole day with the one good battery, although if you can shed some light on that as well, it would be appreciated.
What you're probably doing is locking up the gearbox. If you remove your finger from the trigger too quickly in semi auto, the gearbox doesn't always return to a firing position, so it won't fire. The temporary fix is to put it in full auto, as that will allow you to fire even if the gearbox isn't in its normal position.
A real fix is to use a higher voltage battery. Odds are that your battery doesn't have enough juice to power your gun well, so you most likely have a poor trigger response, leading to these gearbox locks. You should probably be using either a 9.6v NiMH, 7.4v LiPo, or 11.1v LiPo.
that's weird, shouldn't be happening to a brand new G&G but I have heard of some QC problems on more recent guns.
if you're running the gun too hard on semi, the gearbox might lock up, and switching over to full auto and reverting it back does fix the problem on most guns, that one's a common issue.
[editline]4th August 2013[/editline]
wow ninja'd
Holy shit it appears the fsp on the Gr15 actually can be disassembled instead of having to saw it off lol.
Weird how sometimes you get better answers through Youtube than through Google.
bumping up my budget to $200, was looking at [URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/1081-453-fps-airsoft-colt-m4-cqb-r-metal-aeg-rifle-cb-18975.aspx"]this Cybergun M4 CQB-R[/URL]
[QUOTE=Soleeedus;41713791]bumping up my budget to $200, was looking at [URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/1081-453-fps-airsoft-colt-m4-cqb-r-metal-aeg-rifle-cb-18975.aspx"]this Cybergun M4 CQB-R[/URL][/QUOTE]
for $200 AR, get G&G
IIRC Dboys has ~all-right~ externals and generally poor internals as far as their Armalite range is concerned.
[QUOTE=Biscuit-Boy;41714175]IIRC Dboys has ~all-right~ externals and generally poor internals as far as their Armalite range is concerned.[/QUOTE]
That is CYMA. The body is decent, but for $200, a G&G is infinitely better. CM's and Raiders kick ass, and spare money can be spent on a madbull 6.03mm barrel for a 10/10 gun that weighs nothing.
I have a hard time believing it's actually CYMA as it looks 100% identical to every DBOYs M4 I've ever seen, and DBOYS has been making licensed M4s with laser trademarks for years now.
Either way, mneh shit
[QUOTE=Herfjotur;41714200]That is CYMA. The body is decent, but for $200, a G&G is infinitely better. CM's and Raiders kick ass, and spare money can be spent on a madbull 6.03mm barrel for a 10/10 gun that weighs nothing.[/QUOTE]
I still have the gearbox from my raider in my M727. It has a new piston, cylinder and cylinder head, but everything else is working great.
[QUOTE=Soleeedus;41713791]bumping up my budget to $200, was looking at [URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/1081-453-fps-airsoft-colt-m4-cqb-r-metal-aeg-rifle-cb-18975.aspx"]this Cybergun M4 CQB-R[/URL][/QUOTE]
does demonrazgriz have this and constantly complain about it?
[QUOTE=Soleeedus;41714504][URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/586-aeg-package-g-and-g-m4-raider-combat-machine-rifle-black-asp-er035.aspx"]better?[/URL][/QUOTE]
If you're set on an M4 with rails and no carry handle like earlier, go for it. It's not a metal construction but it's sturdy. Besides, other than fondling, you won't even care if it's metal or not when you're running around playing.
is [URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/5393-m4-cqr-mod-2-aeg-rifle-w-2gx-gearbox-kwa-mag-197-04106.aspx"]this KWA[/URL] better than the G&G?
(sorry for the bazillion questions, I just want a reliable gun this time and avoid buyer's remorse)
haha
no
ok, just comparing what people between /r/airsoft and here are recommending
did they recommend the cqr
if so, rip
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