The Official Questions Thread Version: "Charlies in the trees, what do I need to get rid of them?" - General

no didn't know it was a CYMA at first because airsoft megashit is bad (it was under the cybergun section, didn't see that it was only licensed)

Why don't they make any cheap L-85's? Every single one is about $350.

army

isnt it extremely difficult to find considering army is one of the chinese companies that doesnt exist anymore?

[url]http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ERM-ARMY-R85A1.htm[/url]??????????? it was my first aeg and i broke it like a dumbass when i tried to field strip it and now the parts are lying randomly all over my house i wish i could put it back together

[QUOTE=the_killer24;41716037][url]http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ERM-ARMY-R85A1.htm[/url]??????????? it was my first aeg and i broke it like a dumbass when i tried to field strip it and now the parts are lying randomly all over my house i wish i could put it back together[/QUOTE] It's not in stock on Airsplat though. Its listed on ASGI too, but its not in stock there either.

[QUOTE=Soleeedus;41715007]ok, just comparing what people between /r/airsoft and here are recommending[/QUOTE] Never listen to anything from /r/airsoft. Here's how that goes down. "Hey guys, I'm looking for a new gu-" "TM RECOIL SHOCK" "- in the $180 dollar price ra-" "SAVE UP AND BUY A TM RECOIL SHOCK" "- I was kind of hoping to get an M14 or maybe even an AK7-" "GET A RECOIL SHOCK"

Speaking of recoil shock, the representative from Bolt airsoft was at Tac City when I went, and let me dick around with this bolt DMR thing, it was really fun actually, and the recoil was enough to fuck with the groupings.

[URL="http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/4067-g-and-g-gc16-series-m4-ris-raider-aeg-w-extra-mag-gng-fm4ris-black.aspx"]ooh, found a full metal G&G for $40 extra [/URL]

[QUOTE=notrabies;41712990]What you're probably doing is locking up the gearbox. If you remove your finger from the trigger too quickly in semi auto, the gearbox doesn't always return to a firing position, so it won't fire. The temporary fix is to put it in full auto, as that will allow you to fire even if the gearbox isn't in its normal position. A real fix is to use a higher voltage battery. Odds are that your battery doesn't have enough juice to power your gun well, so you most likely have a poor trigger response, leading to these gearbox locks. You should probably be using either a 9.6v NiMH, 7.4v LiPo, or 11.1v LiPo.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=TaiwanesePrick;41713099]that's weird, shouldn't be happening to a brand new G&G but I have heard of some QC problems on more recent guns. if you're running the gun too hard on semi, the gearbox might lock up, and switching over to full auto and reverting it back does fix the problem on most guns, that one's a common issue. [editline]4th August 2013[/editline] wow ninja'd[/QUOTE] Thanks for the replies. It shouldn't require a more powerful battery since both the store and the manual recommend using an 8.4V battery. Switching it to full auto didn't fix it all of the time, and sometimes it wasn't needed either. Generally, my order of operations for fixing it went; Rack the bolt > Switch to full auto > Remove and re-install battery tube So if racking the bolt didn't fix it (again, not sure why it did, but it did most of the time), I'd try firing in full auto, and if that didn't work I'd take out the battery and put the same one back in. It could have been a loose connection on the battery. There's a fake gas cylinder head under the front sight, and to remove the battery you need to twist it. If it's not fully turned back, there's a bit of movement between the battery tube and the connection on the gun since it doesn't clip in. I remember it was a bit hard to turn it back to the right place, and I can't remember if I did or not. It could be that that was causing it. I'll make a note to ensure the battery is properly secured next time I skirmish it, and if it still does cut out I'll be able to rule that out, and possibly look into getting a 9.6. The only thing is that space inside the battery compartment is already tight, so a 9.6V may not fit. Thanks for the help.

Use a more powerful battery. Can't go wrong with a 7.4 lipo, especially if you're short on battery space.

im still stuck on the fact how racking the bolt on an AEG could have any effect on fixing a mechanical jam

[QUOTE=Apache249;41723050]Use a more powerful battery. Can't go wrong with a 7.4 lipo, especially if you're short on battery space.[/QUOTE] Well, the thing is, my battery is a stick-type that slides into a metal tube which has a mini Tamiya connection on the inside and a large Tamiya connection on the outside. I'm not sure if a LiPo will fit in it since they're generally more flat and square-ish. If I don't use the tube, the battery will be flopping about as I move, and will be more succeptible to dirt and water, since it sits inside the handguard. Without the tube, the ventilation holes in the handguard are wide open, meaning dirt and such can get inside easily. The tube sits hard against the ventilation holes, effectively closing them off. Also, since the male Tamiya connection on the gun doesn't have a clip on it, without the tube, the battery will just slide off the connection. [QUOTE=dwt110;41723275]im still stuck on the fact how racking the bolt on an AEG could have any effect on fixing a mechanical jam[/QUOTE] You and me both. That's why I think it may be the battery.

[QUOTE=Girafro;41723535] Also, since the male Tamiya connection on the gun doesn't have a clip on it, without the tube, the battery will just slide off the connection. [/QUOTE] Well, there's your problem.

[QUOTE=notrabies;41723692]Well, there's your problem.[/QUOTE] I am using the tube though. I said that as a reason why LiPo might not work if they didn't fit the tube - i.e. any battery I use has to fit inside this tube. It's extremely limiting for what kind of battery I can use, but that's just the way it is unfortunately.

[QUOTE=Girafro;41723748]I am using the tube though. I said that as a reason why LiPo might not work if they didn't fit the tube - i.e. any battery I use has to fit inside this tube. It's extremely limiting for what kind of battery I can use, but that's just the way it is unfortunately.[/QUOTE] No, the problem is there's no clip on your connector, so any sort of movement can easily disconnect the battery. Also, do us a favor and take a picture of your battery sitting inside the tube.

[QUOTE=notrabies;41723786]No, the problem is there's no clip on your connector, so any sort of movement can easily disconnect the battery. Also, do us a favor and take a picture of your battery sitting inside the tube.[/QUOTE] For your viewing pleasure; Four expertly annotated images by yours truly; [t]http://i.imgur.com/8unePNa.jpg[/t] The female mini Tamiya of the battery connects to a male mini Tamiya on the end of the tube, which connects to the female large Tamiya. The excess wires and mini Tamiya connectors are a tight squeeze already, meaning a 9.6V would be hard pressed to fit in there. [t]http://i.imgur.com/lhLESzT.jpg[/t] The battery doesn't just slide off at any time, it's kept in place by a spring that pushes on the opposite end of the tube. [t]http://i.imgur.com/YZhAW4Z.jpg[/t] Handrail re-assembled. [t]http://i.imgur.com/5s6hx2A.jpg[/t] I think this was the culprit. As I said before, I'm not certain I turned it back to its 'home' position as shown here, which means the spring has a little bit more slack. This could've meant the connection did slip out of place. Like I said, next time it's skirmished, I'll make sure it's properly in place and see if it cuts out. I hope that explains things better than I could using words alone.

Well that helps a bit. 2 things: 1. Having your Tamiya connectors not have a clamp is almost certainly the problem, spring tension will not do the job adequately. I'd probably get a new mini tamiya, and then cut off the large tamiya and adapter and attach the new tamiya on the orignal wires. You'll lower your electrical resistance and create more space at the same time. 2. I'd probably remove the battery tube and just put a better battery in there. A great many guns have their batteries in a place exposed to the elements, and unless you're submerging your gun in mud or water, you should be okay. Worst case scenario, you use the tube if you plan to go play in the rain. If you're ultra-worried, you can also just use tape on the inside of the handguard vents, and you can use electrical tape to stop people from seeing the battery through the vents if you care about that sort of thing. Also, most Lipo's are designed to fit in small areas (and 7.4v lipo sticks are actually shorter than 8.4v's) so unless the tube is perfectly circular, you can probably fit one in there. Most batteries on hobby sites include their dimensions, so you can look into that.

If he's gonna replace the connector, may as well go deans(or be a hipster and go XT-69)

I've liked deans for a while but what I've heard about Xt-60 with easer of soldering makes me kinda want to switch. I mean, deans aren't hard to solder, but my helping hands never really wants to hold the connector.

[QUOTE=Kath;41737036]I've liked deans for a while but what I've heard about Xt-60 with easer of soldering makes me kinda want to switch. I mean, deans aren't hard to solder, but my helping hands never really wants to hold the connector.[/QUOTE] [img]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bSlP5QRa560/UJk58-Ozd4I/AAAAAAAAIaQ/mO0fdzdQAv8/s1600/my-vice.jpg[/img]

i just use pliers and a rubber band around the grip to keep it closed

I have a shitty kwc p226. It's clear and I've seen this model around for years. I got mine about five years ago at a target. It hasn't seen much use but I do suspect it may have seen some abuse from someone else as they gave it back to me and the mag spring had slipped but I fixed it. The magazine release for it popped out of the gun just recently. It basically is a bar inside the gun that floats and holds the magazine in place with divets and notches, and has a spring behind it. Whatever allowed it to float without popping out, whatever keeps it in place and from popping out has failed. What I'd like to know is more about this magazine release and how it's designed. I'd imagine its commonplace among springer pistols. The one thing I do not want to do is spend money on a new gun, as I have just recently invested in my other hobbies and feel it would be inappropriate to just buy a new gun and spend more money, even if its only forty bucks.

[QUOTE=FoodStuffs;41738735][B]its only forty bucks.[/B][/QUOTE] [editline]6th August 2013[/editline] cheapo guns are not really meant to be fixed

Yeah I knew people were going to say that. I guess I wasn't succinct. My question is not how can I fix it. My question is how it works.

on most springers, the mag release will have a little tab sticking out of it that prevents it from falling out the other side. My guess is that it snapped off

[QUOTE=FoodStuffs;41738860]Yeah I knew people were going to say that. I guess I wasn't succinct. My question is not how can I fix it. My question is how it works.[/QUOTE] [t]http://gyazo.com/ca93644cc9778ef0089527bb067e8f1e.png[/t] top down view, the thing in the middle being part of the pistol's frame, and the triangle on the side being the part that catches the magazine. when the button (left) is pressed, it moves the catch out of the way and releases the magazine. the spring returns it to its normal position.

God damn iPad, I wish I could draw. The spring on mine is inside the button and pushes on the other side of the frame (to the left of where the bold line is on your sketch) [editline]6th August 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=apoctank;41738899]on most springers, the mag release will have a little tab sticking out of it that prevents it from falling out the other side. My guess is that it snapped off[/QUOTE] I'm most willing to bet that this is the case... I think I'm just going to have to shelf plinking till I get the boss plinker I've been planning on getting for a while.

ok so is there a difference between the ballistic/kevlar/shell CVC helmet? If so, which one is the best for airshit purposes?

I would imagine the fiberglass bump shell version like i have would be the best just based on weight, and the fact it'd probably cost less. I don't know how heavy the kevlar shells are in comparison but i would imagine the bump shells make the helmet a bit lighter being fiberglass and all.