The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

[t]http://i.imgur.com/bCeKg.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/ifvSF.jpg[/t] So I'm casing up my Raspberry Pi into a C64 chassis, and I want some advice on creating some [B]tidy[/B] blanking plates for the ports on the back. I want to run some HDMI & Ethernet extension cables from the back of the unit to the computer inside but I really want to do this properly and not half arsed. Any advice on this? Help regarding what plastics to use and how to cut holes for ports would be really appreciated. I'm not going to harm the case at all, if I can use the already existing mounting points for the old C64 motherboard I will, I refuse to cut away at the plastics or hot glue anything in.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39074440]Heat, if you get it cherry hot all the oils and gunk on the surface just flake off. But you need to do that in an open fire outside to get the heat needed, an oven doesn't do as good of a job.[/QUOTE] Would an oxy-acetylene torch do the trick?

[QUOTE=Biotoxsin;39087064]Would an oxy-acetylene torch do the trick?[/QUOTE] I would be hesitant to use a torch, cast iron is prone to cracking and warping pretty easily when exposed to inconsistent heat, when you place a cast iron piece in a fire you are heating it relatively evenly and when you remove it you set it in/next to the fire to start the gradual cool down process, if you cool it down to quickly it can crack. I think a torch would not be consistent enough. A fire is more relaxing anyways. Also thanks for the reminder, I need to get my oxy tank refilled.

Mounted my rear speakers to the wall [thumb]http://puu.sh/1JmLn[/thumb] When we plastered we ran wires down the wall, under the floor and under my desk. I drilled a hole next to the face plate hole that they made and poked the speaker wire through it and attached it. That's why that massive hole is there (its gonna get filled). [img]http://puu.sh/1JmMW[/img] Under my desk it isn't so great yet. I'm guessing I need to get phono faceplates, and attach a phono plug to the end of the cable that goes into the amp. [img]http://puu.sh/1JmNo[/img] Are these plugs that go into the amp generic (sony)? [img]http://puu.sh/1JmO6[/img]

Yeah those are proprietary Sony little plugs, but if you ever needed to hook them up to a different receiver you can just cut the wires. Finished my chair restoration today, really happy with the way it turned out. [IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/handz.png?t=1357318802[/IMG] You can see underneath I left the seat pan the original color of all the metal on the chair and left the original paper labels, that was a bitch to preserve. I am also glad I invested in a sand blaster because this would have been impossible to get such a high quality restoration without it. Giving this up to the girlfriend this evening, luckily I know she'll appreciate it more than even I do. If this was mine I would have rather done a grey instead of white and a distressed leather upholstery job but like I said earlier it will look great with her rooms color scheme. Sadly I don't have any original pictures of it pre-restored but the metal was in very poor state, half a century of rust, caked on filth and ugly green/grey paint. The upholstry was in pretty sorry disrepair as well. This picture is as close as I can find to what it looked like when I got it, just add on a lot of filth and grime. [img]http://www.metroretrofurniture.com/images/gf/av07secretarialgreenwithdots04.jpg[/img] And I only originally paid $4 for the chair.

Those chairs came out to nice, what did you use to polish up the base/ backs?

He used Testosterone and whiskey ;)

I'm trying to carve/machine a minature TARDIS as a belated gift to a friend of mine. However its proving harder to remove the wood beyond the realm of carving. And sadly, I don't have a band saw to help me. Any tips on removing some of the wood?

[QUOTE=Xombi;39095662]He used Testosterone and whiskey ;)[/QUOTE] And lots of sand paper from 80 grit up to 1600 grit, 8" stitched buffing wheel and 40 ply flap wheel on a large grinder and I used brown polish compound for aluminum and then finished with a 7" buffing wheel. Was a very dirty and time consuming process. [editline]4th January 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;39096309]I'm trying to carve/machine a minature TARDIS as a belated gift to a friend of mine. However its proving harder to remove the wood beyond the realm of carving. And sadly, I don't have a band saw to help me. Any tips on removing some of the wood?[/QUOTE] What tools do you have? What kind of wood?

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39097916]And lots of sand paper from 80 grit up to 1600 grit, 8" stitched buffing wheel and 40 ply flap wheel on a large grinder and I used brown polish compound for aluminum and then finished with a 7" buffing wheel. Was a very dirty and time consuming process. [editline]4th January 2013[/editline] What tools do you have? What kind of wood?[/QUOTE] Well, I'm having to remove about a 1/4" layer of wood. I've been going between a belt sander (Which in retrospect is more time consuming and not accurate), a coping saw (The small blade on it isn't getting me far), and a Jig saw (However the blades are old) The wood is of the popular variety

I really need to figure out some sort of DIY project... Any suggestions?

[QUOTE=woolio1;39100639]I really need to figure out some sort of DIY project... Any suggestions?[/QUOTE] Make another LolrioKart [URL="http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?page_id=197"]http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?page_id=197[/URL] [IMG]http://www.jorymon.com/images/2009/september/lolriokart.jpg[/IMG] Build-Your-Own-Transport 2013

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39097916]And lots of sand paper from 80 grit up to 1600 grit, 8" stitched buffing wheel and 40 ply flap wheel on a large grinder and I used brown polish compound for aluminum and then finished with a 7" buffing wheel. Was a very dirty and time consuming process. [/QUOTE] Dang man, you put in some WORK! Results are beautiful, though. You'll have those chairs forever

[QUOTE=tinos;39101822]Dang man, you put in some WORK! Results are beautiful, though. You'll have those chairs forever[/QUOTE] Thanks man, and it's chair, not chairs, I doubt I will restore my other goodform chair any time soon, I think I'd rather work on restoring one of my luxo lamps before that.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39101984]Thanks man, and it's chair, not chairs, I doubt I will restore my other goodform chair any time soon, I think I'd rather work on restoring one of my luxo lamps before that.[/QUOTE] Vintage luxo lamps? Your office/room/whatever must be amazing. Sounds like you've got good taste

[QUOTE=tinos;39107850]Vintage luxo lamps? Your office/room/whatever must be amazing. Sounds like you've got good taste[/QUOTE] Yeah, vintage luxos. I have four now, I pick them up every time I come across one in fair shape.

Okay, so I'm thinking about refinishing our dining room table to match our cabinets. Anything I should know in advance?

[QUOTE=woolio1;39109003]Okay, so I'm thinking about refinishing our dining room table to match our cabinets. Anything I should know in advance?[/QUOTE] Is it veneered or solid wood, what kind of wood is it and what kind of finish does it have? I'm going to refinish my oak dining room table really soon to match my woodworking, it shouldn't be hard since my table is just solid oak that has only ever been oiled, never finished with a lacquer or polyurethane.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39109255]Is it veneered or solid wood, what kind of wood is it and what kind of finish does it have? I'm going to refinish my oak dining room table really soon to match my woodworking, it shouldn't be hard since my table is just solid oak that has only ever been oiled, never finished with a lacquer or polyurethane.[/QUOTE] It's solid wood, I'm not sure what type. It's got a pretty heavy stain, and a really decayed poly topcoat. The thing was in a barn for ten years, and it's had a tablecloth on it for five. The thing does need some work, but it's really a nice table.

Is it ornate? Are you going to use a chemical stripper to pull the stain out and sand?

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39109637]Is it ornate? Are you going to use a chemical stripper to pull the stain out and sand?[/QUOTE] It's handmade Appalachian craftsmanship... Not ornate, but it's a big lump of a table. Sturdy and plain. Thinking about just sanding it down, but would a chemical stripper work better?h

[QUOTE=woolio1;39109670]It's handmade Appalachian craftsmanship... Not ornate, but it's a big lump of a table. Sturdy and plain. Thinking about just sanding it down, but would a chemical stripper work better?h[/QUOTE] Well chemical stripper can do a good job at removing the stain without much sanding but it's just a caustic process that is pretty messy, but is the best way to remove finish off of ornate furniture that would be difficult to sand. If it is a simple table, like the one i am going to refinish, then sanding is easier and less of a hassle.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39110012]Well chemical stripper can do a good job at removing the stain without much sanding but it's just a caustic process that is pretty messy, but is the best way to remove finish off of ornate furniture that would be difficult to sand. If it is a simple table, like the one i am going to refinish, then sanding is easier and less of a hassle.[/QUOTE] Then sanding it is.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;39108026]Yeah, vintage luxos. I have four now, I pick them up every time I come across one in fair shape.[/QUOTE] I just bought a vintage desk fan at a garage sale for 5 bucks. I'll admit, you inspired it. I'll have to get a picture when I clean it up a bit

Anyone know where to purchase boron carbide plates for cheap? My dad has a 1000ft roll of kevlar lying around somewhere that he doesn't need, so I though Id make some bulletproof stuff. He was going to use the stuff to make some belts or something but the fabric is waaay to tough to work with. Nothing can cut it, exacto knives, shears, blow torches and the industrial sewing machine we have cant sew through it. So he just gave it to me. Ive been covering the walls in the basement with it so when I shoot my pellet/bb guns I dont damage anything.

[QUOTE=ultra_bright;39139978]Anyone know where to purchase boron carbide plates for cheap? My dad has a 1000ft roll of kevlar lying around somewhere that he doesn't need, so I though Id make some bulletproof stuff. He was going to use the stuff to make some belts or something but the fabric is waaay to tough to work with. Nothing can cut it, exacto knives, shears, blow torches and the industrial sewing machine we have cant sew through it. So he just gave it to me. Ive been covering the walls in the basement with it so when I shoot my pellet/bb guns I dont damage anything.[/QUOTE] Unless you plan on setting up a full fledge Range in your basement for some higher caliber weapons, I think Kevlar will do just fine for pellet/bb guns. (Hell even just some nylon will work) However, boron carbide is expensive stuff, you can try what I'm attempting to do and fashion some Silicon Carbide which is almost as tough as the latter (And much easier to manufacture) This is what I'm following: [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acheson_process"]Acheson process[/URL] And here's a page on SiC's material properties (IMO, its a miracle material): [URL="http://accuratus.com/silicar.html"]http://accuratus.com/silicar.html[/URL] [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_carbide"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_carbide[/URL]

[thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14054906/2013-01-08%2013.56.37.jpg[/thumb] Some scalemail i started working on, wish I'd gotten the larger scales as 13mmx22mm is a bitch to work with especially as i need 6mm rings to fasten them together.

H&S folks will recognize these. I had a Portal-y holiday season. [t]http://i.imgur.com/DHrVf.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/xsORI.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/Ggche.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/joTmQh.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/a9XP4h.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/YwfWyh.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/hz0LUh.jpg[/t] The test chamber sign is a 3-bulb florescent light fixture I got on Craigslist, and a $20 print from a Zazzle sale. If you decide to make your own, don't put the Aperture Laboratories logo on it or else Zazzle will deny it for copyright. I have the .psd if you want it. It's absolutely massive, so you can scale it down to any size you want. *better mirror pics added

So, I've lost my phone cover today. Not having anything better at hand, I decided to make a new one myself. Out of painter's tape, duct tape and a tissue. [img]http://imageshack.us/a/img405/7358/imag0101fp.jpg[/img] [img]http://imageshack.us/a/img442/7316/imag0102w.jpg[/img] [img]http://imageshack.us/a/img818/1857/imag0103vq.jpg[/img] Basically I've wrapped the phone with the painter's tape, sticky side out. Then I've wrapped it with some duct tape and added pieces of rolled tissues to the sides, to provide some shock protecton. And one more layer of duct tape. I don't have any better materials right now. But I'll try to make a better version, with some cardboard or plastic pieces to toughen it up a bit, and possibly foam or rubber in place of rolled tissues. Sorry, no photos of it with the phone inside, because they were taken with the phone itself :v: I'll maybe throw in better pictures made with an actual camera if I ever get to make a better one.

Get some fancy cloth and cheaply sew your protection. This looks ... not good to me. Also we have 200+ viewers right now I'd like to know why.