The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

[QUOTE=XL5;40854068]One volt would kill you with enough current behind it.[/QUOTE] Yes, but the resistance of the human body means there would never be enough current behind it behind it. Ohms law people, basic physics.

[QUOTE=XL5;40854068]One volt would kill you with enough current behind it.[/QUOTE] The sheer stupidity of some people astounds me. How is I = V /R hard to understand.

[QUOTE=Armandur;40845297]Made some butterknives from a piece of juniper wood. Came out pretty nice. Carved, sanded and then oiled with paraffin oil. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5342745/sm%C3%B6rknivar.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Carved a fork today: Front [t]http://i.imgur.com/wds6hpuh.jpg[/t] Back [t]http://i.imgur.com/dV9zu03h.jpg[/t]

Little update on the Bear Pong table. I put the first coat of stain on today, so I'm giving that a good twelve hours to soak in. Tomorrow, I sand, stain, sand, and poly. In a week's time, I'll have a brand new desk for under $80. [t]http://i.imgur.com/1EzOlhn.jpg[/t]

Picked up a Dremel 3000 from Home Depot today, along with some metal cutting wheels (Which I forgot to buy the EZ-Lock attachment for :suicide:), And some electrical tape, friction tape, blue loctite, and teflon sealant tape. I used the reinforced fiberglass wheel that came with the dremel to cut off one side of a screw head, and it wasn't that hard besides all the sparks flying around everywhere and trying to keep it all under control. When I was done I place the dremel down and the fiberglass cutting wheel proceeded to snap off at the middle where it attaches to the dremel :v:

And... I think I've screwed up. How does one remove bits of lint from a layer of polyurethane? Because I've got bits of lint in my last coat... And it's TERRIBLE. EDIT: And that side's all scratched up from an earlier sanding.. Maybe I'll stick a leather mat there.

[QUOTE=woolio1;40868563]And... I think I've screwed up. How does one remove bits of lint from a layer of polyurethane? Because I've got bits of lint in my last coat... And it's TERRIBLE. EDIT: And that side's all scratched up from an earlier sanding.. Maybe I'll stick a leather mat there.[/QUOTE] did the lint come from a rag you used to apply it? If so, use a roller next time. You are not lost yet, grab some #000 steel wool and rub it along the poly. it will rip lint and brush bristles out but leave most of the poly, recoat with poly, and repeat with the wool, then just buff and wax it or however you're going to finish it. I would generally not advise sanding on a urethane coat over wood, when you are going for a finish look.

[QUOTE=Serj22;40872364]did the lint come from a rag you used to apply it? If so, use a roller next time. You are not lost yet, grab some #000 steel wool and rub it along the poly. it will rip lint and brush bristles out but leave most of the poly, recoat with poly, and repeat with the wool, then just buff and wax it or however you're going to finish it. I would generally not advise sanding on a urethane coat over wood, when you are going for a finish look.[/QUOTE] I... Might try this tomorrow. I might also just not worry about it, it's not really lint anyway. It's... Strings, best I can tell, from where the poly dried a bit too quickly, and stuck to the roller. I don't understand it. I don't have to. It's mostly done, the coating's hard, so now it's going to sit out in the garage for about a week to cure.

[QUOTE=dwt110;40868517]Picked up a Dremel 3000 from Home Depot today, along with some metal cutting wheels (Which I forgot to buy the EZ-Lock attachment for :suicide:), And some electrical tape, friction tape, blue loctite, and teflon sealant tape. I used the reinforced fiberglass wheel that came with the dremel to cut off one side of a screw head, and it wasn't that hard besides all the sparks flying around everywhere and trying to keep it all under control. When I was done I place the dremel down and the fiberglass cutting wheel proceeded to snap off at the middle where it attaches to the dremel :v:[/QUOTE] Cutting wheels are terrible for that, just looking at them causes them to snap.

And... Its done. I'm pretty impressed with my work. [t]http://i.imgur.com/73U7LNC.jpg[/t] A few updates. I used some old black bookcases I had for the supports. The backs of the bookcases have been upholstered with some old pillowcases I had lying around, which I cut into squares and stapled on. The poly's still a bit sticky, but the monitors won't be moving, so I don't care. Besides, I can always polish it out if it scratches. Overall, just from typing, it feels pretty sturdy. I will, however, need a bigger chair.

Wow, that looks absolutely fantastic. Much better than my first try at least... It's hanging about a cm out from the wall on one side, and is supported by two pieces of wood, since we fucked up real bad on the third one... It doesn't feel sturdy at all, but it is amazingly sturdy for how it is (I use it almost everyday, with my monitor, keyboard, mouse and laptop on it, and it still holds up) I'm gonna have to replace it soon, though, just haven't found a good desk yet. (that's free as well)

-snip- Think before you post.

Had a go at refinishing my old table saw yesterday evening. I plan on buying a new table saw soon, a nice Grizzly with an outfeed table and a dust collection system with a wicked fence, but until then I resurfaced my table saw and gave it a very good clean. The whole top surface was rusty. [IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/tablesaw_zpsd51e0f90.jpg?t=1370273031[/IMG] I don't have a picture of it before, but it looked similar to this. [IMG]http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/32007i77CC23940980600E/image-size/medium?v=mpbl-1&px=-1[/IMG]

About 6 months ago I got a large roofbox for free because it was cracked and broken quite severely. The past few days the weather has been great so I set to work repairing it. 3 Cans of Plastikote paint 1 tube of Superglue 1 Fiber glass boat repair kit and 1/2 of a small tube of filler later and BAM: [img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/286964/Photos/Rikko/100CANON/IMG_1188.JPG[/img] Functional roofbox, total cost: ~£25. From Halfrauds these boxes are about £350 (They are good quality, made by Thule)

[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;40938555]About 6 months ago I got a large roofbox for free because it was cracked and broken quite severely. The past few days the weather has been great so I set to work repairing it. 3 Cans of Plastikote paint 1 tube of Superglue 1 Fiber glass boat repair kit and 1/2 of a small tube of filler later and BAM: Functional roofbox, total cost: ~£25. From Halfrauds these boxes are about £350 (They are good quality, made by Thule)[/QUOTE] Reminds me of a global hawk: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Ysuiuz7.jpg[/IMG]

Trying to repair my stove, I tried replacing a relay circuit but it's still not working. I tried testing the current coming out of the wall but the Voltage tester isn't detecting anything coming out of the socket, but I know for a fact power is coming through it. The stove somewhat works, but none of the elements heat up, and it keeps turning off. It's either the voltage, or the control panel went tits up. [editline]7th June 2013[/editline] Not really sure where else to post something like this.

[QUOTE=Del91;40943130]Trying to repair my stove, I tried replacing a relay circuit but it's still not working. I tried testing the current coming out of the wall but the Voltage tester isn't detecting anything coming out of the socket, but I know for a fact power is coming through it. The stove somewhat works, but none of the elements heat up, and it keeps turning off. It's either the voltage, or the control panel went tits up. [editline]7th June 2013[/editline] Not really sure where else to post something like this.[/QUOTE] Voltage tester, like a multimeter? How many conductors? What is the voltage rating of the appliance?

Yeah a multimeter. The outlet is supposed to be 240VAC, I tried setting the multimeter to 200VAC and 500VAC and neither made a difference. [editline]8th June 2013[/editline] It's a 3 pronged appliance outlet. Kind of like this. [img]http://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/3-prong_dryer_outlet.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE=Del91;40955841]Yeah a multimeter. The outlet is supposed to be 240VAC, I tried setting the multimeter to 200VAC and 500VAC and neither made a difference. [editline]8th June 2013[/editline] It's a 3 pronged appliance outlet. Kind of like this. [/QUOTE] Sounds more like its meant to be an australian outlet, in which case the top two pins are active and neutral and your bottom pin is your earth. If the bottom pin looks like that one in the image then its most likely an earth (they do it this way so you cant put active or neutral into earth).

[QUOTE=Donkey Kong;40967106]Sounds more like its meant to be an australian outlet, in which case the top two pins are active and neutral and your bottom pin is your earth. If the bottom pin looks like that one in the image then its most likely an earth (they do it this way so you cant put active or neutral into earth).[/QUOTE] Don't think so. I live in the US, and we have outlets like this for appliances.

[QUOTE=Donkey Kong;40967106]Sounds more like its meant to be an australian outlet, in which case the top two pins are active and neutral and your bottom pin is your earth. If the bottom pin looks like that one in the image then its most likely an earth (they do it this way so you cant put active or neutral into earth).[/QUOTE] I tried every combination, and got nothing. [editline]9th June 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=woolio1;40967116]Don't think so. I live in the US, and we have outlets like this for appliances.[/QUOTE] Yep, my Stove was plugged into it, don't have it plugged in now as it's not working.

Decided to stop by goodwill on the way home from lunch with my girlfriend and saw a good condition (although Magnavox) 32" LCD TV among the stacks of 1980's tube TV's and the price tag was a measly $4.99 and said "DOES NOT WORK" so I plugged it in, sure enough absolutely nothing happened. So I figured it was the power supply board, and decided to gamble and buy it for $5. Took it home, opened it up and can easily see that there's two swollen caps on the power board. Should be an easy fix. Otherwise, this TV is in great shape, very clean, a slight scratch on the screen but nothing really noticeable, not even dusty. [IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/TV_1_zpse60ecea2.jpg~original[/IMG] [IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/TV_2_zpsd5245920.jpg~original[/IMG] [IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/TV_3_zps5e0a5482.jpg~original[/IMG] Not sure what I'll do with it once it works, I could simply take it to a pawn shop and trade it for something I'd like more, or give it to my girlfriend and get back my Samsung 32" that I lent her. Not sure, but I'm pretty sure it'll be an easy fix. Also on the back on the service tag it says made by Panasonic, never knew that Magnavox was just rebadged Panasonics (Although worse quality overall), I guess old folks still trust the Magnavox name.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;41011171]The Marvelous Adventures of Ajacks[/QUOTE] Fun fact time, Magnavox actually sells products made by Funai for Panasonic under the Philips company. Yeah... I'm beginning to wonder if brands actually mean anything these days.

I heard Sony makes LCD that they sell to Panasonic that they use in LG's that are in then branded as Samsung's and then downgraded to Vizio's and sold as Colby Plasmas. "The Marvelous Adventures of Ajacks" made me laugh. On a serious note, It's a shame all the electronic hobby stores have gone the way of the dinosaurs in my town, radioshack is just a crippled mess of what it once was. I must turn to ebay for these replacement caps sadly.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;41011383]I heard Sony makes LCD that they sell to Panasonic that they use in LG's that are in then branded as Samsung's and then downgraded to Vizio's and sold as Colby Plasmas. "The Marvelous Adventures of Ajacks" made me laugh. On a serious note, It's a shame all the electronic hobby stores have gone the way of the dinosaurs in my town, radioshack is just a crippled mess of what it once was. I must turn to ebay for these replacement caps sadly.[/QUOTE] Tell me about it... I went to Radioshack the other day looking for a 3.5mm coupler, and I could only find it at one of the three shops I went to. We need a Fry's around here, but the closest one's in Duluth, GA.

Closest Fry's to me is Indianapolis, an hour away. Where do you live? We used to have an electronics store, that was for hobbyists, sadly it shut down.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;41012338]Closest Fry's to me is Indianapolis, an hour away. Where do you live? We used to have an electronics store, that was for hobbyists, sadly it shut down.[/QUOTE] I live in Knoxville, TN. About three hours from Duluth.

[QUOTE=woolio1;41013451]I live in Knoxville, TN. About three hours from Duluth.[/QUOTE] Have you been to the Marathon Automotive building where American Pickers now has setup shop? I saw it from the interstate when I drove through last fall.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;41011383]I heard Sony makes LCD that they sell to Panasonic that they use in LG's that are in then branded as Samsung's and then downgraded to Vizio's and sold as Colby Plasmas. "The Marvelous Adventures of Ajacks" made me laugh. On a serious note, It's a shame all the electronic hobby stores have gone the way of the dinosaurs in my town, radioshack is just a crippled mess of what it once was. I must turn to ebay for these replacement caps sadly.[/QUOTE] So my Vizio, is actualy a Sony? What about Sharps? :v:

[QUOTE=Ajacks;41014360]Have you been to the Marathon Automotive building where American Pickers now has setup shop? I saw it from the interstate when I drove through last fall.[/QUOTE] Can't say I have... Didn't even know that was around here. I might have to go take a look.