The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

Update on my safe: [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20131213_152456.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20131213_152514.jpg[/t] All I need to do is buy a lock for it and give it a nice paint job then its done. Maybe something like [url=http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/B1021851488/Cabinet-Locks.jpg]this[/url] or if I can fine one, [url=http://www.fjmsecurity.com/images/keyless-cabinet-locks_small.jpg]this[/url]. Any thoughts on how I could do this better?

I'd do multiple locks and weld brackets on the outside so it can be affixed to a solid surface so it can't simply just be taken away.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;43206849]I'd do multiple locks and weld brackets on the outside so it can be affixed to a solid surface so it can't simply just be taken away.[/QUOTE] Alternately, bolt it to a solid surface through the bottom of the safe itself. You'd have to open the safe to remove it.

I recently obtained an anvil, I'll share pictures of all my equipment once I have my forge built.

[QUOTE=highvoltage;43206606]Update on my safe: [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20131213_152456.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20131213_152514.jpg[/t] All I need to do is buy a lock for it and give it a nice paint job then its done. Maybe something like [url=http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/B1021851488/Cabinet-Locks.jpg]this[/url] or if I can fine one, [url=http://www.fjmsecurity.com/images/keyless-cabinet-locks_small.jpg]this[/url]. Any thoughts on how I could do this better?[/QUOTE] Are there any heavy duty versions of those locks anywhere? They just look very flimsy like you could easily open it with just a crowbar...

[QUOTE=Ldesu;43210395]Are there any heavy duty versions of those locks anywhere? They just look very flimsy like you could easily open it with just a crowbar...[/QUOTE] How does [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Keys-Cam-Chest-Lock-Camlock-Door-Cabinet-Shop-Mailbox-Drawer-Cupboard-Security-/370964858037"]this one[/URL] look? I should be able to make a thicker tab for it.

I'd use a combo lock. A safe isn't that safe if you have a small, easy-to-loose device that opens it

Here is a quick drawing of an idea for using a combination lock embedded in the door: [url=http://puu.sh/5Q7N6.jpg][img]http://puu.sh/5Q7UR.jpg[/img][/url] (Click for a massive picture if you cant read my writing) So pretty much I'll mill out a hole that will fit the lock with the front showing while the rest will be just like a 1/16 of an inch behind the surface. I'll weld a little pin on the back of the loop on the lock and when you enter the combo and twist the handle down it will pull the lock open and allow the bar to move down on the other side. Thus allowing the door to open. I should be able to have this all hidden inside the door too, except for the bar so it can go into a slot cut in the side wall of the safe [editline]17th December 2013[/editline] That drawing is to scale if anyone is wondering. The safe is a 6" cube made mostly out of 1/2" flat bar.

[QUOTE=credesniper;43208044]I recently obtained an anvil, I'll share pictures of all my equipment once I have my forge built.[/QUOTE] You lucky fuck, i've been looking for an anvil for months, where did you get it?

[QUOTE=DeVotchKa;43218475]You lucky fuck, i've been looking for an anvil for months, where did you get it?[/QUOTE] It's cheap and a tiny bit small(35 square inch faceplate), but darn afforable. Harbor Freight, [url=http://www.harborfreight.com/55-lb-rugged-cast-iron-anvil-69161.html]55 Lb. Rugged Cast Iron Anvil[/url]. Picked mine up on Black Friday for $10.00 less. My only complaint is that the horn doesn't taper evenly.

Ah, that one. Been avoiding it, honestly, because A. It's cast, so brittle and B. I've not heard a whole lot of good about AF. Honestly, i'm about to just say fuck it, weld me a hollow steel beam and fill it with concrete, cap the top and weld a small square to the side for a hardy hole.

[QUOTE=DeVotchKa;43221610]Ah, that one. Been avoiding it, honestly, because A. It's cast, so brittle and B. I've not heard a whole lot of good about AF. Honestly, i'm about to just say fuck it, weld me a hollow steel beam and fill it with concrete, cap the top and weld a small square to the side for a hardy hole.[/QUOTE] Or just try to get some railroad track.

Considering it's my first anvil, and it's size and cost were the leading factors, less than optimal quality is fine.

I've been working on making the case for my all-in-one keyboard computer over the past week. I began by making the general shape of the case based off component sizes and I've been slowly mocking up each component to get more accurate size and shape. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip1.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip1_exploded.jpg[/t] Because I only have an 8 inch build area on my 3d printer, I've split it up into sections that I will bolt together internally to create a somewhat rigid case. The electronics are already almost entirely complete, so this is where I'm at right now. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip6.jpg[/t] It's going to house a Raspberry Pi, a 10 port USB hub (though one port will run power for the Pi and 2 will be replaced with hard wired wifi and bluetooth dongles), 2 dualshock joysticks for analog control and a PSP slider joystick acting as a mouse. The design here still lacks the small 2.2" LCD that will sit on the upper left corner running as the primary framebuffer display (for quick terminal access) but that's already been wired up and works perfectly. If you choose to boot up a desktop environment, it switches to the HDMI output, so I can still easily use it on a TV or monitor like a regular RasPi.

All my winner

[QUOTE=Xombi;43222843]Or just try to get some railroad track.[/QUOTE] I'd have already if it was a possibility, to be honest.

[QUOTE=credesniper;43223124]Considering it's my first anvil, and it's size and cost were the leading factors, less than optimal quality is fine.[/QUOTE] You honestly are better off using an old sledgehammer head, piece of rail track, or even 1in plate on a stump. HF cast iron anvils will never rebound and will be getting destroyed with light use. You will be working exponentially harder to achieve what a smaller steel anvil can do. Rebound not only helps bounce the hammer back into the air, it works the underside of the steel almost like two blows. I looked at my local steel yard and 6x8 1in plate is 42 dollars and 2in plate is 68 dollars, cut from new plate.

[QUOTE=Sonydude;43231755] HF cast iron anvils will never rebound and will be getting destroyed with light use. Rebound not only helps bounce the hammer back into the air, it works the underside of the steel almost like two blows. [/QUOTE] Can I ask the science behind this? I'm not doubting what you're saying, but I'd like to know why x is y. That and I'd like to confirm for myself that my investment isn't for naught.

Now I don't know the exacts myself but before be explains, do know that you CAN use it and should, so it's not just a waste of money.

[QUOTE=credesniper;43244448]Can I ask the science behind this? I'm not doubting what you're saying, but I'd like to know why x is y. That and I'd like to confirm for myself that my investment isn't for naught.[/QUOTE] It's to do with both the crystalline structure of the two metals (differences mostly from the forming process, as they're both mostly body center cubic packed iron), and the presence (and amount) of interstitial carbon atoms in the steel. Cast iron isn't necessarily pure iron and can actually have more interstitial carbon than steel - but the more carbon you have the more brittle/less ductile it is. It's mostly down to how the crystalline structure forms when iron is cast, which has a large affect on ductility. Cast iron is more brittle and has a generally weaker structure than steel.

[QUOTE=chaz13;43250898]It's to do with both the crystalline structure of the two metals (differences mostly from the forming process, as they're both mostly body center cubic packed iron), and the presence (and amount) of interstitial carbon atoms in the steel. Cast iron isn't necessarily pure iron and can actually have more interstitial carbon than steel - but the more carbon you have the more brittle/less ductile it is. It's mostly down to how the crystalline structure forms when iron is cast, which has a large affect on ductility. Cast iron is more brittle and has a generally weaker structure than steel.[/QUOTE] Brittleness aside, wouldn't a harder anvil mean more of the energy goes to forming the workpiece? If he already has the iron anvil, why not weld steel plate to that? I'm sure it's no substitute, but would it be better? I just had material sciences class this semester and my teacher packed untold weeks of metal lectures into one week so I'm still reeling in all the info haha.

[QUOTE=credesniper;43244448]Can I ask the science behind this? I'm not doubting what you're saying, but I'd like to know why x is y. That and I'd like to confirm for myself that my investment isn't for naught.[/QUOTE] From my understanding it comes from steel's higher elasticity. When energy is exerted on steel it will give a little then spring back. Cast will just convert the energy into cracking itself. Having mass in line under the working surface helps rebound. So larger anvils, larger bases/stands and having a solid connection from anvil-base-floor will help immensely. Common test for anvils is to bounce a hammer off the face of the anvil, the distance the head returns is the measure of efficiency. (ringing is not a measure of efficiency but a measure of hearing loss)

So, I got a ceiling fan here which is extremely unreliable, my dad bought it for 39 euro's because of a 79% discount, the very first 5 days the bearings already started to deform, making this annoying zng zng zng noise the whole time, when the thing starts you hear this very annoying resonance every now and then, and the halogen bulb cuts out sometimes because it's not properly seated in the socket, making me slam the thing to get it back on. Before I used to have a Westinghouse Princess 42'' fan, which we had for over 25 years until the start/run capacitor pack failed and I couldn't find a replacement. It was even older than me, and served us very quiet, unlike this thing. Now, I did some looking around and found a Westinghouse Cyclone Chrome: [url]http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/560197/Westinghouse-Cyclone-Chrome-Ceiling-Fan?ref=list[/url] I want to know, is this one a reliable model? We had a very good experience with Westinghouse and this one seems very promising, as I have read the reviews on the Dutch webpage of Conrad. (But those people don't promise as much as you expect) If this fan is good, I would like to get the remote control which is sold separately, and install the light kit of this fan on it (after some good fixing of this kit). But I need to know, does this fan have the required wiring available in for supplying power for the light kit?

Getting ready to put planning permission in for the house soon :)

[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;43223338]I've been working on making the case for my all-in-one keyboard computer over the past week. I began by making the general shape of the case based off component sizes and I've been slowly mocking up each component to get more accurate size and shape. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip1.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip1_exploded.jpg[/t] Because I only have an 8 inch build area on my 3d printer, I've split it up into sections that I will bolt together internally to create a somewhat rigid case. The electronics are already almost entirely complete, so this is where I'm at right now. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip6.jpg[/t] It's going to house a Raspberry Pi, a 10 port USB hub (though one port will run power for the Pi and 2 will be replaced with hard wired wifi and bluetooth dongles), 2 dualshock joysticks for analog control and a PSP slider joystick acting as a mouse. The design here still lacks the small 2.2" LCD that will sit on the upper left corner running as the primary framebuffer display (for quick terminal access) but that's already been wired up and works perfectly. If you choose to boot up a desktop environment, it switches to the HDMI output, so I can still easily use it on a TV or monitor like a regular RasPi.[/QUOTE] I expect nothing less than a fully detailed build-log.

Do you have the port designs on the back of the unit? Also are you going to run this off a LiPo, because honestly I could see this as a fully professional/commercial product.

I've got all the internal components modelled now and I am going to rearrange them after work today. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip8.jpg[/t] I have thought a bit about how it's going to connect to things and although I haven't designed ot yet, I'm planning on a back plate with usb connection for using the keyboard in other computers, the 5v dc in for powering it if I plan to run the pi, hdmi for video and a 3.5mm audio jack. Inside I can just run extensions from the pi and keyboard controller. [editline]23rd December 2013[/editline] If I do give it a battery, I'll make it an optional clip on one.

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip9.jpg[/t] Looks like I need to learn to etch my own board for the keyboard controller. Its way too tall to fit currently and thats without the connections in place.

It seems weird that the USB slots are coming out the top

[QUOTE=HiddenMyst;43289232][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62766551/Norseboard/norseboard_wip9.jpg[/t] Looks like I need to learn to etch my own board for the keyboard controller. Its way too tall to fit currently and thats without the connections in place.[/QUOTE] Could you pop in a board right underneath the left analog stick? Look like theres room there.