The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

[QUOTE=Sled Dog;43904838]So I'm planning to build a sandrail out of 5/8th inch weldable rebar. Any opinions or suggestions? Wisdom to be shared?[/QUOTE] Sandrail, a dunebuggy vehicle? Use 1.5in OD steel tube or similar. Look up specs for Roll cages and increase wall thickness for frame or other high strength areas. Any racing organization will have cage specs for you, even better would be a sandrail community with specific specs. Rebar is remelted scrap intended for concrete, not vehicles.

Started leathercrafting a week or so ago, thought I'd share the stuff I've made so far! Its been a massively steep learning curve but im getting there! [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/1gS0aL4l.jpg[/IMG] What do you guys think?

Looking good, are you doing the stitching by hand or with a machine? Bought my fourth goodwill $3.99 broken LCD TV today, fixed it, like the others, within 10 minutes of opening it. This time around it's a 26" Element LCD TV, 720p, from 2009. Do I really need more TV's? No. Can I pass up a fixable TV for $3.99? Negative. The others i have fixed were two Samsung 32's, and a Magnavox 32". This Element one had a grey picture and no sound. Turns out it was a blown SMD fuse on the T-Con board, and the sound was from a disconnected internal cable. [img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/TV_zpse63a6dee.jpg[/img]

All hand stitched! Much, much stronger than normal sewing machines and cheaper, it takes longer to do but it feels like a much more solid piece! I use saddle stitching because of the strength alone, the image below shows this: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/jo4Ig86.jpg[/IMG] However, since it does take longer it can increase the cost of the piece. I've put a couple of my pieces for sale on etsy (I'd link it, but im not sure i'd be allowed' because of advertising rules?) but hopefully it'll be a nice little source of income since Im a full time student and give me a nice skill to improve and possible start business in! I Put £300+ of my student loan as investment into this so hopefully I can make something of it, does anybody have any crit on it from a consumer point of view? I'd love any feedback, im always willing to learn! I'll be sure to keep uploading stuff if you're all interested too.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;43913270]Looking good, are you doing the stitching by hand or with a machine? Bought my fourth goodwill $3.99 broken LCD TV today, fixed it, like the others, within 10 minutes of opening it. This time around it's a 26" Element LCD TV, 720p, from 2009. Do I really need more TV's? No. Can I pass up a fixable TV for $3.99? Negative. The others i have fixed were two Samsung 32's, and a Magnavox 32". This Element one had a grey picture and no sound. Turns out it was a blown SMD fuse on the T-Con board, and the sound was from a disconnected internal cable. [img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/TV_zpse63a6dee.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] Can't tell you how many flat panel TV's I got out of an Ecycle bin that wouldn't turn on. I have kept a 32" and a 47" that both had bad caps in the power supply - replaced for all of like $10.00 worth of parts on each and turned on instantly.

I'd love to try and fix a TV like you guys, but I don't know where you can get a broken TV in Western Australia without it being a roadside pickup and having no cable.

That's not a bad idea. I've been fixing monitors here at work for a while now. Most of the failures boil down to blown capacitors. I might look around locally and see if I can find any TVs that won't turn on, see if I can't patch 'em up and resell them. Thanks for the idea!

So i gotta make a stand alone led bulb powered through wire and a battery for a claymation I'm making it. I get the basic idea of how to go about doing this and found some instructions online [IMG]http://www.sciencebuddies.org/Files/3878/5/Elec_img158.gif[/IMG] If I do it like this, with 1 wire connected to the bulb going directly to the battery and then another wire at the other end going to the bottom of the bulb, will that power the bulb? Can I glue the wires to the bulb, and also which part of the bulb should I glue the wire going to the negative terminal? Is it anywhere other than the bottom, or is there a specific spot on it?

[QUOTE=Lilyo;43962853]So i gotta make a stand alone led bulb powered through wire and a battery for a claymation I'm making it. I get the basic idea of how to go about doing this and found some instructions online [IMG]http://www.sciencebuddies.org/Files/3878/5/Elec_img158.gif[/IMG] If I do it like this, with 1 wire connected to the bulb going directly to the battery and then another wire at the other end going to the bottom of the bulb, will that power the bulb? Can I glue the wires to the bulb, and also which part of the bulb should I glue the wire going to the negative terminal? Is it anywhere other than the bottom, or is there a specific spot on it?[/QUOTE] We don't glue wires, kid. We solder them. I'd do a little work familiarizing yourself with exactly how electric circuits work before you do this. This may be helpful: [url]http://www.andythelwell.com/blobz/guide.html[/url] Also, you're not going to get anywhere by wiring an LED to a battery of any sort. You've got to get the voltages right, which involves a resistor before the LED. This is why: [url]http://www.instructables.com/answers/why-does-an-led-have-to-be-given-a-resistor-before/[/url]

[QUOTE=woolio1;43964468]We don't glue wires, kid. We solder them. [/quote] Quoteable right there.

[QUOTE=clutch2;43966787]Quoteable right there.[/QUOTE] Thanks, man with the [del]exhibitionist[/del] fabulous avatar.

So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.

[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;43970750]So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.[/QUOTE] Rubber gloves? Insulated tools? Discharging the capacitor before you solder it?

[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;43970750]So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.[/QUOTE] My only advice is make sure to buy good quality replacement capacitors, because you don't want to buy the same junk capacitor and have it happen again in the future. Stick to brands like Samsung, Panasonic, Rubycon, Sanyo, Nichicon or Nippon. And also, I can't imagine getting an injury soldering a small capacitor, I've personally never run into any problems, but then again I don't do to much electrical work besides fixing LCD's.

[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;43970750]So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.[/QUOTE] Those capacitors from Conrad are SMD! You need the ones that mount through hole (have wire leads going straight down).

[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;43970750]So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.[/QUOTE] They're only cute little baby capacitors, you'll be fine. If you ever want an indicator of how dangerous one is the info is right there on the side. Assuming worst case fully charged, Energy stored = 0.5*C*V^2 so your cap stores ~0.14J of energy worst case. As you should be able to tell from the equation, voltage is the dominant factor. I wouldn't be too concerned by anything below 120V. For comparison a defib charges up 350J ish of energy.

[QUOTE=metallics;43975938]They're only cute little baby capacitors, you'll be fine. If you ever want an indicator of how dangerous one is the info is right there on the side. Assuming worst case fully charged, Energy stored = 0.5*C*V^2 so your cap stores ~0.14J of energy worst case. As you should be able to tell from the equation, voltage is the dominant factor. I wouldn't be too concerned by anything below 120V. For comparison a defib charges up 350J ish of energy.[/QUOTE] What's amperage look like on those?

[QUOTE=woolio1;43975972]What's amperage look like on those?[/QUOTE] Doesn't matter on a capacitor, it's largely irrelevant to how much energy stored. It's like asking "what's the amperage on that battery?" It has relevance in terms of speed of charge and discharge and obviously there is a maximum it can support, but it depends largely on the construction. I suspect what you mean is what current would flow if you shorted it out using your body, to which the answer is moderately complex I guess, but essentially it's like connecting a 24V battery across your skin, but we're not talking like a car battery here, we're talking with considerably less stored energy than your average AAA battery.

I am constructing a rain catchment system for the greenhouse at my college. I have never built one before and I am extremely limited in access to tools so it is going slow. Today I converted an old juice barrel into a rain barrel. Before and after [t]http://i.imgur.com/ilEbRiJ.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/PzsqVff.jpg[/t] I cut the screen out of a cover from an old broken gas heater, it doesn't look great but it works. If I can get access to a sturdy ladder and approval to begin I am hoping to get the guttering installed this weekend. Then I have to wait for approval to start building the barrel stand (maintenance wants to check for electrical and gas lines first).

[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;43970750]So, over more than a year ago I got given a Philips 170P5 LCD monitor which wasn't turning on. After some examination, I found out that three capacitors on the transformer board appear faulty. [T]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t35/1920937_296769130473311_405973869_o.jpg?oh=d94915f3d52c70e86d6093a50b6dbdfc&oe=53071ADA&__gda__=1392978420_aa52061275a6eab20786c0a95f0a3f2d[/T] I did find a capacitor online, but since this is my first time I want to re-cap a appliance, I need some advice. Like first: Is this the correct replacement capacitor? [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/773016/Elektrolyt-condensator-SMD-470-F-25-V-20--x-l-102-mm-x-10-mm-Panasonic-1-stuks?ref=searchDetail[/url] All of those failed caps are 470 uF, rated 25 volts. And second, any advice on soldering these replacements? I don't like any severe injuries just from soldering a capacitor.[/QUOTE] It would help if you posted a picture of the area of the board with the failed capacitors (the picture you posted doesn't seem to work). As far as soldering them goes, avoid lead free solder at all cost, get the leaded stuff such as [url]http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/812838/Stannol-Elektronica-soldeerdraad-Wikkel?ref=searchDetail[/url], don't get a stupidly small tip for your soldering iron and watch this video: [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4[/url].

Was the last day for anyone to complain about our planning permission today.. looks like we might be getting permission! So much to think about now. Should showers be electric - or use mains hot water? Should we have air conditioning? Should we have underfloor heating? Should we have a water pump thing in the swimming pool for infinite swimming?

heated everything [editline]21st February 2014[/editline] then you can fry an egg on every surface in the house and have massive egg frying parties

[QUOTE=garry;43997895]Was the last day for anyone to complain about our planning permission today.. looks like we might be getting permission! So much to think about now. Should showers be electric - or use mains hot water? Should we have air conditioning? Should we have underfloor heating? Should we have a water pump thing in the swimming pool for infinite swimming?[/QUOTE] My advice for the showers? Tankless hot water heaters. They're electric, they sit in the wall behind the shower, and they provide INFINITE hot water. You can shower for days, it's great. They're also more efficient than traditional boilers, so you'll save money. AC is super-important... Even if you think you won't need it, you'll need it eventually. I know you live in England, which is temperate, but it's also pretty humid sometimes (depends entirely on where you are, I guess). If you don't put too much value on AC, don't go for central AC, go for wall-mounted units. Mitsubishi does a fantastic job with those, and they're also super-efficient. Underfloor heating is awesome, but maybe not everywhere. If you're planning tile in your bathrooms, though, it's a must-have... Nobody likes cold tile. Infinite pools are great, I think there's a company based out of Sweden(?) that does an integrated system for traditional swimming pools, so maybe that'd be something to look into. Have you considered any sort of alternative energy? Solar? Geothermal? It's definitely something to look into, especially if you get any sort of recompense or tax credit. Remember to post build pics! Also, have you decided on an architectural style? If you've got any visualizations, we'd love to see them.

I'd say heating in the bathroom floor for sure, and possibly around indoor pool, that would be nice in the winter I'd think. Also I agree with Woolio, i'd go with the tankless water heaters, they are cheaper in the long run as well.

[QUOTE=woolio1;43998161]My advice for the showers? Tankless hot water heaters. They're electric, they sit in the wall behind the shower, and they provide INFINITE hot water. You can shower for days, it's great. They're also more efficient than traditional boilers, so you'll save money. AC is super-important... Even if you think you won't need it, you'll need it eventually. I know you live in England, which is temperate, but it's also pretty humid sometimes (depends entirely on where you are, I guess). If you don't put too much value on AC, don't go for central AC, go for wall-mounted units. Mitsubishi does a fantastic job with those, and they're also super-efficient. Underfloor heating is awesome, but maybe not everywhere. If you're planning tile in your bathrooms, though, it's a must-have... Nobody likes cold tile. Infinite pools are great, I think there's a company based out of Sweden(?) that does an integrated system for traditional swimming pools, so maybe that'd be something to look into. Have you considered any sort of alternative energy? Solar? Geothermal? It's definitely something to look into, especially if you get any sort of recompense or tax credit. Remember to post build pics! Also, have you decided on an architectural style? If you've got any visualizations, we'd love to see them.[/QUOTE] In our house now we have one electric shower and one mains fed shower. The mains fed shower is so much better (it's attached to a gas combi boiler). The 11kw shower doesn't seem to kick out half the amount of hot water. So I'm kind of weary about electric heaters.

Ok so I have this [IMG]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71UkKp81jbL._SL1412_.jpg[/IMG] I need to power it with wires. What's the easiest way to do this? I thought I could connect the two ends on the bulb to the terminal on the flashlight and light it that way? I have an 18 gauge copper wire, will this be conductive?

Yeah, looks like you'd just have to connect it to the flashlight (given that they operate on the same voltage), and it should work. Any copper will conduct electricity, and anything larger than about 0.1mm2 should be sufficient (basically, and wire will do)

Should I connect the wire to the two actual wires on the bulb (are they called terminals?). And then connect the copper to the spring on the flashlight i would guess?

[QUOTE=garry;43999336]In our house now we have one electric shower and one mains fed shower. The mains fed shower is so much better (it's attached to a gas combi boiler). The 11kw shower doesn't seem to kick out half the amount of hot water. So I'm kind of weary about electric heaters.[/QUOTE] A tankless water heater is going to typically kick out more heat than a standalone electric shower. If you're wary of electric, some companies make gas-burning models as well. It's essentially a boiler, but the boiling bit is a radiator-shaped pipe that sits over or between a heating element. It's hot water as soon as you turn the tap.

Because you're building, I'd go with lots of solar power right off the bat. No reason to rely on the grid if you have the money to offset from the start.